The switch behind Stay-Putt isn't a code issue. It's a design flaw because fast balls sent up the Ecto Lane lift off the ground when they go around the corner and the switch isn't depressed enough. Likewise, a softer plunge up the Ecto Lane seems to almost alway work.

I tried bending my switch to make it more sensitive, but the switch would close when I screwed it back in. I bent it back to get it working again, but same % of failure.

Stern should have put another Opto in there, or a physically different switch that could be closed when a fast ball is shot through the Ecto Lane.

I had trouble with this too. I eventually turned down the power to the ball trough, and now it works perfectly. The problem was that the ball was bouncing off the Cliffy steel wall protector and back into the trough, so the shooter lane switch wasn't triggered, and the game shot both out on the retry.

Try experimenting with a lower power settings. Drop it a 5 points at a time until you get a consistent 1 ball in the shooter lane.

I tried tweaking the switch actuator, but it only helped a little. We need to come up with a way to keep the ball from gaining air on that shot. I was thinking about installing some kind of cardboard flap that is hinged to the back of the ecto goggles. The cardboard would lay directly over the lane, but it would have some give due to the hinge. This might keep the ball low enough to register the switch more often. I plan on experimenting with this when I get a chance.

Were you playing WBTD mode and drained then it started back up on the next plunge? If so, that's normal. You can change it in the setting though. If you've never started that mode and it starts on the plunge that is not correct. No idea what's happening there.

I had something similar in mind, but was just spitballing in my head. I'd be curious to see what you come up with.

I adjusted the switch blade and that did help, but also added this plastic. I may do another revision and extend the plastic a bit further down, but will keep testing first.

GB_Plastic (resized).png

I thought about doing something like that, but doesn't it affect the plunge?

I swear just last night I was thinking , hmm you know a piece of plastic to keep the ball down would probably fix this and then maybe I could reinstall the back right gate .

No issue at all, full or soft plunge work fine. That is one of the concerns if I extend the plastic as it may interfere with the ball drop, but current design it is fine.

Interesting. So perhaps a combination of your idea and my flap idea over the ecto lane might be exactly the one-two punch we need.

The 2nd switch is behind staypuft. #55 . (The 1st switch is #59.)
switches (resized).png

Might you sell this once perfected? Or share the specs?

My current "issue"...
I don't own one yet!

I don't intend in selling, but can post a image of my final version.

I think the new version of Slimer, like the one you have is supposed to sit against the front and is normally closed. The original version was normally open. Maybe I pulled that out of the air, but I thought I remembered reading that.

You're probably right. I may have also answered my own question by tinkering some more. Once you remove the top protector plate, you then see that the next part of the mech can slide forward or backward. This is where I adjusted front to back and then tightened and now seem to have Slimer registering all hits and not registering shots that never happened. Also, easy fix to ensure he isn't dragging his butt. One washer and he's floating like a butterfly

On your machine with the washer under the mechanism arm is Slimer low enough that the ball will hit him in all of the stopping positions? I tried the washer idea on my machine and found that Slimer was too high on the far left position. The ball would roll under him without making contact.

well, i also added a palstic, no need somebody to make and sell (lol), just DIY
mine is in "soft" plastic, attached at the upper screw, and curved in the air at the other crew, like this there is enough space to the jumpin ball from the end of the shooterlane to fall down perfectly for the switch

gb (resized).JPG

I added just one washer and this seems to create just enough room for him to clear and not bump his butt. Yet, he clearly seems low enough to hit all shots at the moment. I only tested a few times, so I'll check again tonight.

That would be great!

See other post where I coined the new unit of measure "half ball height" .
1 "half ball height" gap under slimer.

17/32"

Installed the shorter 1 5/8 inch hex spacer on my right ramp tonight. I had to smile after my first shot ran up the right ramp and smoothly made the turn. I figured we had it. However, the more I played, the more I had shots roll back down, just like it used to. It still seems better than before, but I'd like to get it perfect. Any thoughts? Thanks guys.

Hit the ball harder.
I don't think you can safely lower the ramp any more than 1-5/8. As a side note: I'm using 1-3/4 and it works good.
One thing you can do is.. check the level (left-right) of your machine. If it favors the left its going to add to the uphill climb on the right ramp. You could slightly favor the right (bubble close the right line) that small difference could help especially if you are already favoring the left.

Good stuff. Appreciate that. Is the hex post that comes with the game 1 3/4? Also, I noticed there is some give to the plastic ramp itself. Simply put, I'm going to monkey around with it more tonight and possibly see if there is a way to have the ramp as steep as possible right away, while the shot ball has its most energy. I am pretty vigilant on having my machines perfectly level, but I'll check that as well.

Same thing with me. I think there is no "perfect". It's a hard shot. All we've done is make it less hard.

That's the feedback I was looking for. Appreciate that!

The factory post is 2 inches.
I bought a 1-5/8 and a 1-3/4. I started with the 1-3/4 and its been good.

One thing about too short... the ball may pick up so much speed that it gets spin on it & when it exists the ramp , it causes the ball to flip out and down the far left drain.

I had a 1-1/2 inch post with a spacer (about 1-5/8) and it always spun the ball to the left drain.
AftermMoving to the 1-3/4 post , its 100% resolved .
** full disclosure- I also bent the output of the right ramp a smidge toward the bottom so it dropped in deeper.
I'm not sure which of the 2 changes fixed the issue or a combo of both but it sure works great now.

I'm not sure if this is a software or hardware issue... every once in awhile, right after I launch the ball, the skill shot gets awarded when the ball hits the right orbit switch (I think). All switches seem to be fine ... optos working. Anyone else experience this?

Yes, I had this happen . After I installed my shooter lane cliffy, it did it every time.
Cause: The cliffy held the ball up from the switch in the shooter lane which really confused the machine.
Check your shooter lane switch carefully with a ball in switch test. The switch should trigger 'before' the ball comes to rest.
If you added a cliffy shooter lane protector you really need to check the switch.

Thanks Chuck! Will check this out!

Q1: I am trying to fix the storage issue. Is it correct that when a ball goes into storage and gets launched back on to the game from the hole that at the same time a new ball is launched to the shooter lane - so that there will be two balls in the game then? If not - where lies the problem?

Q2: The previous owner apparently had dropped something to the playfield making two bumps that are bigger than dimples for sure (please have a look at the attachment). I think it would be best to protect them with mylar, but the mylar I put there did not look that nice and I removed it. Is there some much more invisible mylar that I could get from somewhere so that it would not be that noticeable? Any pointers to right direction would be appreciated! Also info on better methods for correction would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Bumps (resized).JPG

Sorry, No. It should not do that. The ball will in some cases shoot through the subway and back to the playfield. Ernie will typically say something. But the fact that you have 2 balls suggests that the machine thinks it kept the ball ( Q: Did the screen say Ball Locked?" )
If it said ball locked and shot though, the machine thinks it still has the ball in storage. If it does not say ball locked, and adds a 2nd ball, I would check the switches throughout the subway carefully along with the diverter.

Moved the flippers up to be less droopy and the game played terrible. Ball coming out of the Ecto lane would normally land safely on the right flipper. Now, it was bouncing off the flipper, hitting the sling, and draining. Tried lowering the flippers a bit, with the same result. Moved them back to their stock position. and everything was fine. Lesson learned, the game was designed with the droopy flippers in mind.

Nope, it did not. I will have to investigate the switches in the subway then, thanks!

I wanted to pop in here and note that I replaced the foam on the stand up targets with some of the gray foam you can get from Marco or PBL. It has nearly eliminated air balls so far. I went ahead and installed the airball deflector as well, but this is just one more thing to help with the insane air balls on this game.

Pinball is a game of millimeters. At the same time, it's also very personal and subjective. Glad you figured out what works for you.

I bumped my flippers up a very small amount. It was about 3/16" at the tip of the flipper - barely noticeable visually. I've had great results. Previously, my Grand Champion score was 850 Million. Now, all my high scores are north of 1 Billion with a Grand Champion score of 4.2 Billion. I feel like shots are easier, and I get more gameplay out of it now.

Here is the final revision of my right orbit plastic. Tested with 50 auto launches, had only one failure (bounce off the plastic). Worked fine in 10 games, all right orbits registered fine. Great improvement over not having anything at all.

Bend is at the 15mm mark.

GB_Orbit_Plastic (resized).png

IMAG0696[1] (resized).jpg

I guess I'm not understanding....this is bent?

Yes, look at the middle picture, shows a curve towards the front.

Got it.

Thanks!

Do the pin blades from pin graffix usually have the hole cut out for the back box hinge ???
My don't seem to have it cut.

Sorry to bump such an old post but can we see a pic of the spacer you added in for a smoother right ramp shot? Just curious.

There is no hole cut on mine.

Hmm, that's kind of dumb.

This is what they look like. Just order the 1 5/8" hex spacer.
Hex-nut-screw-M4-x-15-PCB-Spacer-Aluminum-Hex-Standoff-Pillar-Female (resized).jpg

I put the shorter spacer on mine and it didn't really seem to help a whole lot. It has to be an absolutely perfect shot with some steam on it to make the full ramp still.

It's not a huge difference, but every little bit helps.

No, not on the three I have installed. I assume because the material they use can be easily peeled off and reapplied it's not necessary to have the hole.