(Topic ID: 158288)

Ghostbuster Issue Thread


By exflexer

3 years ago



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There are 4388 posts in this topic. You are on page 53 of 88.
#2601 2 years ago

I just got my Pro, installed Art's airball protector, then tested it out. Slimer is not registering hits. Looking at it closer, it appears Slimer is up right against Art's protector. Moving it around manually will not trigger forward, left, or right. If I lift it up and push it back over Art's protector, it registers.

Any ideas? Should Slimer be moved forward?

IMG_1471 (resized).JPG

#2602 2 years ago
Quoted from bhwolf:

For what it's worth -- mine had quite a bit of a gap on the right side of the target (meaning the target was skewed to the left, like yours). This was causing a lot of airballs -- using slow motion video, when the ball went over this gap it was getting slightly airborne when hitting the ramp. Amazingly, it was still under the airball protector in most cases, but occasionally was hitting the protector.
I ended up drilling out the mounting holes a bit to slide the whole assembly to the right a bit. Completely solved all airballs off the ramp, minus those you get off the targets/etc.

wow so you drilled new holes and moved it to the right? Not sure i have the guts to try that.

#2603 2 years ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

I just got my Pro, installed Art's airball protector, then tested it out. Slimer is not registering hits. Looking at it closer, it appears Slimer is up right against Art's protector. Moving it around manually will not trigger forward, left, or right. If I lift it up and push it back over Art's protector, it registers.
Any ideas? Should Slimer be moved forward?

I am having the same issue on the pro.

#2604 2 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

I am having the same issue on the pro.

I took apart the whole Slimer assembly. Probably didn't have to do it. It was a total pain in the ass to put it all back together.

Anyway, there's an adjustment on top under the first cover where you can slide the Slimer assembly around a bit. I moved mine back.

Now, it's working great. Slimer also feels quite a bit looser than before.

#2605 2 years ago

Thanks for sharing.

It appears some Pros coming out are getting assembled a little different.

Heres a Pic to ovalize the Protector Holes, it can go in the other direction, if needed, that will allow
some adjustment with regard to targets or slimer.

I heard from another customer, who too a dremel and sanding disk, and by viewing top down, fingernail cut out a small dent area for Slimers Butt.

Equally, is something I havent done, as I dont have a Pro is the Switch adjustment...Thank you for Sharing!!!

I have heard and done a shim on the Boom Mechanism below the playfield with washers under the back side, or front as needed to simply change the whole angle.

Interesting, as the variation seems to be up to 5mm in Assembly in distance variation

Hole lengthening2 (resized).jpg

#2606 2 years ago
Quoted from bridgeman:

I developed an issue with my GB Pro this weekend. When Stirage Facility MB starts my game goes crazy. The scoleri Bros begin to machine gunner fire. During this the the ghost captured count keeps going all the way until Mass Hysteria starts. Anyone seen or heard if this? Any suggestions? Here is a link to video of it. Thanks in advance.

Reinstalled code and problem not showing up now?

#2607 2 years ago
Quoted from bridgeman:

Reinstalled code and problem not showing up now?

Did you change the springs on the targets? Maybe the springs are too strong and causing the targets to not stay up.

Or

Loose connection and the game thinks the target is down (opto sensor false trigger). 1 scoleri hit = 1 ghost captured in SFMB. I doubt this was a code issue.

Rob

#2608 2 years ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

Did you change the springs on the targets? Maybe the springs are too strong and causing the targets to not stay up.
Or
Loose connection and the game thinks the target is down (opto sensor false trigger). 1 scoleri hit = 1 ghost captured in SFMB. I doubt this was a code issue.

The scoleri targets would work fine anytime in Scoleri mode. This would only occur during SFMB? Thing is I played 100's of games without this issue. Than it occurred. Reinstalled 1.13 and now everything is fine. I'm not an software guy, so I don't know if starting the perfect storm of modes could have caused it. I also would have figured that if that was the case when I rebooted it would have been fine, but not the case??

#2609 2 years ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

I took apart the whole Slimer assembly. Probably didn't have to do it. It was a total pain in the ass to put it all back together.
Anyway, there's an adjustment on top under the first cover where you can slide the Slimer assembly around a bit. I moved mine back.
Now, it's working great. Slimer also feels quite a bit looser than before.

Wouldn't you want to move it forward to give the butt room to swing back?

#2610 2 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

Wouldn't you want to move it forward to give the butt room to swing back?

It's still close to the protector. I'll trim the protector with a dremel. Slimer is registering much better now.

#2611 2 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

wow so you drilled new holes and moved it to the right? Not sure i have the guts to try that.

I just used a dremel to widen the holes on the metal bracket about 2mm. That way, it can be slid back and forth. Similar to what Art is suggesting for his protector.

#2612 2 years ago

Has anyone adjusted their flippers up a small amount? They seem kind of 'droopy' to me.

IMG_1473 (resized).JPG

#2613 2 years ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

Has anyone adjusted their flippers up a small amount? They seem kind of 'droopy' to me.

They are by that why by design, to hit the extreme left and right shots.

#2614 2 years ago
Quoted from Sinestro:

They are by that why by design, to hit the extreme left and right shots.

Agreed. If you adjust them up, good luck making most of the shots.

#2615 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Agreed. If you adjust them up, good luck making most of the shots.

Yes. Leave the flippers as designed.

#2616 2 years ago

For those who want to tame the shaker, this image shows a great way to do it.
adjust shaker motor (resized).jpg

#2617 2 years ago
Quoted from kermit24:

Yes. Leave the flippers as designed.

Agree 100%

#2618 2 years ago

I adjusted the flippers up a bit. Shots can be made, no problem. Try it, when not satisfied, place them back, it is only one screw.

#2619 2 years ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

I just got my Pro, installed Art's airball protector, then tested it out. Slimer is not registering hits. Looking at it closer, it appears Slimer is up right against Art's protector. Moving it around manually will not trigger forward, left, or right. If I lift it up and push it back over Art's protector, it registers.
Any ideas? Should Slimer be moved forward?

I have a Pro with Art's protectors and I simply dremel'd out some space for Slimer's butt. Took about 10 total minutes to get it right.

#2620 2 years ago
Quoted from omgitsadam:

I have a Pro with Art's protectors and I simply dremel'd out some space for Slimer's butt. Took about 10 total minutes to get it right.

What bit works best? I don't have any right now but I could pop one in my drill?

#2621 2 years ago
Quoted from omgitsadam:

I have a Pro with Art's protectors and I simply dremel'd out some space for Slimer's butt. Took about 10 total minutes to get it right.

I did the same thing yesterday. It was easy enough. I also lengthened the existing drill holes so I can slide the protector back a small amount.

I used sanding bit (?) that was about 1/4" in diameter. I'm not sure of the exact bit name. The material is really soft, so be careful not to get too carried away.

#2622 2 years ago

I adjusted my flippers up a bit and can still make all shots without a problem. Adjusting the flippers also allows you to cradle the balls better during multiball.

#2623 2 years ago

I really haven't had issues with airballs except from the Scoleri Brother drop targets. They drop every time but can produce some fast and powerful airballs.

Is there a solution to this? Maybe add a couple washers to the mounting screws of the assembly? If so, how many?

#2624 2 years ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

I did the same thing yesterday. It was easy enough. I also lengthened the existing drill holes so I can slide the protector back a small amount.
I used sanding bit (?) that was about 1/4" in diameter. I'm not sure of the exact bit name. The material is really soft, so be careful not to get too carried away.

You just have to be care because even though slimer might register, you still don't want him hitting the protector - it will tear him up over time. I took at least a 1/2 inch off the protector. I need to film it in slow motion to make sure there is no contact.

#2625 2 years ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

I really haven't had issues with airballs except from the Scoleri Brother drop targets. They drop every time but can produce some fast and powerful airballs.
Is there a solution to this? Maybe add a couple washers to the mounting screws of the assembly? If so, how many?

It depends on what kind of airballs you are getting. When the target is up and the ball is getting rebounded/air? Or as the ball passes over when it's down?

#2626 2 years ago
Quoted from bhwolf:

It depends on what kind of airballs you are getting. When the target is up and the ball is getting rebounded/air? Or as the ball passes over when it's down?

It's rebound. A strong clean hit, and it'll fly back hard... often over the flippers.

#2627 2 years ago

Hey guys,

I decided to take off the Ecto Goggle reflector piece since it was easier to clean this way.

My problem is that I cannot get the screws back in due to the plastic above them. At this point I believe I have stripped them....

Anyone have any ideas for this? I am thinking perhaps just zip tying where the screws were to hold it on...

#2628 2 years ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Hey guys,
I decided to take off the Ecto Goggle reflector piece since it was easier to clean this way.
My problem is that I cannot get the screws back in due to the plastic above them. At this point I believe I have stripped them....
Anyone have any ideas for this? I am thinking perhaps just zip tying where the screws were to hold it on...

Put a nut and a bolt there?

#2629 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Put a nut and a bolt there?

Might be hard to do but not a bad idea. The area is tight to get at..

#2630 2 years ago

Well, I adjusted the flippers up a very small amount, and I feel like it changed the game quite a bit. Before, my high score was 850 million. After playing the game about 10 games post change, I beat that score by over 2 BILLION! I finished Stay Puft and had a great WCWS. The main shots in the upper half of the playfield were more in line with the shot geometry found in other games, I feel. I could still hit the side shots, but I could not tell if it was any harder. They're hard to begin with.

Factory angle:
Pre (resized).JPG

Changed angle:
Post (resized).jpg

My new GC score:
Score (resized).JPG

#2631 2 years ago

Wow......nice shootin!

#2632 2 years ago

nice work on the score and your new adjusted angle is almost the same as factory how my game came from a November build

#2633 2 years ago

I lined the flippers up with the inlane guides on my very early run pro when I got, have never regretted it. Hate droopy flippers.

#2634 2 years ago

Can someone post a photo and arrow with which screw I am suppose to adjust the flippers with. I tried with what I thought was the right screw (allen key type) but no matter how hard I turned it won't budge. Sorry first game, so noobie question.

Quoted from Kevlar:

I lined the flippers up with the inlane guides on my very early run pro when I got, have never regretted it. Hate droopy flippers.

#2635 2 years ago

Guys are there anymore slimer fixes for it the first gen mech? I did move the wire to the center and it helped for a while but doesn't appear to mattter at this point. Did stern ever replace first gen mechs with the newer design?

#2636 2 years ago
Quoted from Dr-Willy:

Guys are there anymore slimer fixes for it the first gen mech? I did move the wire to the center and it helped for a while but doesn't appear to mattter at this point. Did stern ever replace first gen mechs with the newer design?

Maybe I'm wrong, but the old design seems to be an open switch circuit that closed to signify a hit, and the updated one is a closed switch circuit that opens? The slimer on my game is all the way forward and it works fine.

Rob

20170317_024338[308] (resized).jpg

#2637 2 years ago
Quoted from Dr-Willy:

Guys are there anymore slimer fixes for it the first gen mech? I did move the wire to the center and it helped for a while but doesn't appear to mattter at this point. Did stern ever replace first gen mechs with the newer design?

Yes, Slimer mech was updated.
Call your distributor to get the updated mech.
You will need to send the old one back to Stern to avoid being charged for a new slimer .
The new mech works great and can be mechanically adjusted for sensitivity if needed.
The new mech is a NC (normally closed) switch. A hit will open the switch telling the machine Slimer was hit.
I've noticed each new revision of the software appears to update how long the switch needs to be open to be a hit so I have opted to readjust slimer after each software update. But the new slimer mech is the way to go.
You can watch a video of John's arcade install his new Slimer.

#2638 2 years ago
Quoted from swinks:

nice work on the score and your new adjusted angle is almost the same as factory how my game came from a November build

The tip of the flipper was moved up 3/16". It's pretty close to parallel with the ball guides. It doesn't look like much from the photos, though.

My game is a February 2017 build.

#2639 2 years ago
Quoted from Gunnder:

Can someone post a photo and arrow with which screw I am suppose to adjust the flippers with. I tried with what I thought was the right screw (allen key type) but no matter how hard I turned it won't budge. Sorry first game, so noobie question.

It's a allen key head screw that 'squeezes' a clamp around the flipper shaft that comes down from the top of the playfield. Just follow the flipper shaft down to find it.

I'd recommend putting some painter's tape on the playfield under the flippers and mark the position with a pencil before making adjustments.

The screw is really tight, and you'll want to make sure it's really tight after you re-adjust.

#2640 2 years ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

The tip of the flipper was moved up 3/16". It's pretty close to parallel with the ball guides. It doesn't look like much from the photos, though.
My game is a February 2017 build.

yeah mine is almost the same as that, must be when the improved playfields started late half of 2016

#2641 2 years ago
Quoted from Gunnder:

Can someone post a photo and arrow with which screw I am suppose to adjust the flippers with. I tried with what I thought was the right screw (allen key type) but no matter how hard I turned it won't budge. Sorry first game, so noobie question.

as per Allibaster stated, with just one extra thing ensure you maintain the same height of the bat off the playfield otherwise you will lose art quickly.

#2642 2 years ago

I read about the subway fix and it seems that my storage will need to have it as well. When the ball gets stored in the storage, sometimes a new ball is being launched up from the storage hole, sometimes a new ball is launched to the shooter lane.

My shooter lane has the pinball universe plastic protector. I wonder if its the culprit for the plunger occasionally launching two balls to the shooter lane? I did not see this issue mentioned in the "list of issues" included in the start of this thread.

Any help for the 2 balls launched to the shooter lane would be much appreciated! Thanks!

#2643 2 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Any help for the 2 balls launched to the shooter lane would be much appreciated! Thanks!

That happened to me a long time ago. The ball was not making the shooter lane switch consistently and fast enough. I physically adjusted the switch up and the problem was gone. Prior to that adjustment I was getting 2 balls a lot as if the machine had no idea the ball was in the shooter lane.
The switch is held in place with 1/8" nut driver head screws. The screw heads are really small so you may have to use a needle nose to loosen/tighten.

#2644 2 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

That happened to me a long time ago. The ball was not making the shooter lane switch consistently and fast enough. I physically adjusted the switch up and the problem was gone. Prior to that adjustment I was getting 2 balls a lot as if the machine had no idea the ball was in the shooter lane.
The switch is held in place with 1/8" nut driver head screws. The screw heads are really small so you may have to use a needle nose to loosen/tighten.

I think the problem was brought up with the plastic shooter lane protector that I put there as it raises the ball up a bit. I will try to adjust the switch, thanks!

#2645 2 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

Yes, Slimer mech was updated.
Call your distributor to get the updated mech.
You will need to send the old one back to Stern to avoid being charged for a new slimer .
The new mech works great and can be mechanically adjusted for sensitivity if needed.
The new mech is a NC (normally closed) switch. A hit will open the switch telling the machine Slimer was hit.
I've noticed each new revision of the software appears to update how long the switch needs to be open to be a hit so I have opted to readjust slimer after each software update. But the new slimer mech is the way to go.
You can watch a video of John's arcade install his new Slimer.
ยป YouTube video

Contacted stern and my distro today and they are sending me a new one. Thanks!

#2646 2 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

That happened to me a long time ago. The ball was not making the shooter lane switch consistently and fast enough. I physically adjusted the switch up and the problem was gone. Prior to that adjustment I was getting 2 balls a lot as if the machine had no idea the ball was in the shooter lane.
The switch is held in place with 1/8" nut driver head screws. The screw heads are really small so you may have to use a needle nose to loosen/tighten.

Chuck what are your thoughts about the switch not registering when you shoot the ball really fast through the ecto goggles? I hate not getting credit for that shot. Mine fails fairly often on a good hard and fast shot up thru there.

#2647 2 years ago
Quoted from Who-Dey:

Chuck what are your thoughts about the switch not registering when you shoot the ball really fast through the ecto goggles? I hate not getting credit for that shot. Mine fails fairly often on a good hard and fast shot up thru there.

same here, very frustrating.

#2648 2 years ago
Quoted from Who-Dey:

Chuck what are your thoughts about the switch not registering when you shoot the ball really fast through the ecto goggles? I hate not getting credit for that shot. Mine fails fairly often on a good hard and fast shot up thru there.

I have not had that issue but I know there are 2 switches. The 1st is an optical sensor. This busts the ghost
After is a physical switch. If mine did not register consistently in would test in the menus then I would adjust it so the switch makes contact before the ball is fully pressing the switch-lever to its maximum down (ball directly over switch). Just be careful not to make the switch too high which could block or slow the ball.

#2649 2 years ago

My Slimer was bumping his butt and registering hits right away and heading back up before being touched once.
First, I put the additional washers on the rod itself (as previously discussed on this thread) and I'm thinking that's going to work great.
Secondly, I felt like my Slimer was pushed way to the front versus being in the middle. I loosened up the mech, but cannot seem to get him tightened back up in the middle. Am I missing a piece behind the wire that hangs down? I center him up and try my best to tighten down, but there sure is a lot of play there.
The middle pic shows how he was before I loosened, metal piece was back and Slimer pushed way to the front. I was simply trying to have him hang more in the middle.
Also, I tried to read all the threads on this first before posting, so hopefully this hasn't been posted a thousand times already.

IMG_4394 (resized).JPG

IMG_4395 (resized).JPG

IMG_4396 (resized).JPG

#2650 2 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

I have not had that issue but I know there are 2 switches. The 1st is an optical sensor. This busts the ghost
After is a physical switch. If mine did not register consistently in would test in the menus then I would adjust it so the switch makes contact before the ball is fully pressing the switch-lever to its maximum down (ball directly over switch). Just be careful not to make the switch too high which could block or slow the ball.

Hey Chuck
Is the 2nd switch you are speaking of the same one that starts the wbtd mode.
If so I have the same issue with it not registering on hard fast shots but on the other hand wbtd mode will start often / all the time / when plugging and I don't want it to when plugging to the top lanes ??? Suggestions? Code issue ?

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