Right lane. the one with the EctoGoggles. Ever since last code I only register - in game - one out of 4 shots at most. Should there be a ghost shown in the goggles it will be triggered/blown up but should the insert be lit for a mode only a fraction of the shots register.

Meaning, it can be that the insert is lit and the goggles are showing at the same time, when I hit the lane/opto ONLY the ghost gets shot, the mode does not register. Started to have the same problem on the cross-over ramp/PKE on the right (got a Premium).

Now, in test it all checks out, every time. No matter what. But ever since the latest code I have these in-game issues on the right side of the playfield ....

As I wait for my GB Premium to arrive I was playing the GB LE at the Museum of Pinball and noticed this hex post standing by itself with nothing attached?
Anyone else have this empty post (circled in green) on their LE or Premium?

GBLE post (resized).jpg

Yes.
I'm sure it is just to stop a ball from getting stuck in that area.

I still need to measure that Hex, maybe swap it with the one under the right ramp to make the shot easier. Did anyone do that or just order the 1 5/8 hex instead of the 2"?

Mine does the same thing. It seems to be the ball is jumping over the switch when it goes around the bend past the ecto goggles. Anyone have a solution to this (maybe a taller roll over?)

Mine does this about 5% of the time or so as well. Maybe a bend of the switch arm would help.

On my Prem as well. I think it prevents ball traps

But how would one explain the random opto behavior. The switch arm I will bend, the opto I do not understand as again, the ectogoggles will 'shoot the ghost' when the ball passes but the mode insert(s) will NOT trigger....

It's because the two things are registered by different switches. I was confused about this as well when I first got the game. The ghost in the ecto goggles is destroyed when the opto is tripped. The insert won't register a hit until the ball has traveled further and tripped the switch at the far back right of the game behind staypuft. It sounds like your opto is working fine and registering 100% of the time. It's the other switch that is the problem. Unfortunately, it's a bad design. The ball comes ripping around that corner at a high velocity and often with some air. This is why the switch isn't registering consistently. Some people have had luck slightly tweaking the actuator so that the switch can be triggered more easily.

Thank you, got it! Now I understand and am confident that I can fix it. Explains why the slow shots were more likely to register

He should change the code allow the opto to open the gate

Can anyone explain the best way to move the post on the right outline? The Terror Dog is attached to a metal plate which is bolted onto a plastic overlay. I see no way of removing it to move the post. I've tried to squeeze it through, but was afraid I was going to snap the plastic. Thought it was better to ask than to risk it.

Thanks!

I did it and shot is a lot easier. 5 minute install!

also did the plastic protector over left ramp, scoleri springs, shooter lane protector, rubber over slimer so more hitting, and foam behind targets on ramp.

Airballs disappeared and game is now awesome !!!

Pinball Life has the hex post for .99 and also has the springs and Terry is the best!!!

I squeezed it through. But man those posts had to be pounded out. Like they clear coated it with posts there???

But good thing is when I pounded it out that plastic kept it from disappearing sliding down the pf!

Take the plastic piece off (twinkie/rick moranis). Careful not to scratch it when sliding out and back in.

Is there something different about the flipper design on this game? I'm having trouble dialing them in so I can do the little finesse moves like tip passes. The EOS on both flippers seems fine, and I've adjusted both flipper button switch gaps, but I still can't get it to be as responsive as I'd like.

I'm at work, but if memory serves, that was one huge chunk of plastic and looked complicated to take off. I was hoping to avoid that.

Remove containment unit, right return metal ramp and hex post, then like 3 nuts.

To do a tip pass you're just holding up one flipper and using the tip to bounce the ball over to the other flipper right?

I do these with ease on the GBs I've played. Is yours giving each time you try or something?

I think the flipper gap makes some of the old reliable moves tough on GB.

My game had the same issue and then just magically started working right last week. lol
I assume you are referring to letting the ball roll up a trapped flipper, and then lightly tapping the flipper button to get the flipper to just barely move and tap the ball to the other flipper.
If so, for the longest my game refused to do this like all my other sterns do just fine.
Now suddenly and for no reason it is working great.

Wait you can tap pass on modern sterns??? Whoa baby please post a video. I don't understand how this can be done.

Need to edit that.
I meant when the first flipper was up. Not down. Sorry
First post edited to read correctly.

Oh okay. Yeah that's one of my go to moves on new sterns too. Especially TWD. I find it harder to do on spike games. Feel like I have to let out the flipper button more or something.

Yes, this is exactly what I'm referring to. It's the partial flip you use when the ball is slowly rolling up one flipper and you want to give it some very slight upward momentum so that it will sail over the flipper gap. I can do this on all my Sterns, even on my GoT which is also a Spike game, but it seems much harder to do it on GB. Is there an adjustment I can make to fix this?

Edit: I adjusted the flipper button gap again and made it just a little bit wider. This helped. It's still not quite as responsive as some of my other games, but it's now a bit easier do the partial flip.

Is everyone having this issue? 40 ghosts never lights negative reinforcement for me. Did some searching but only found a few isolated reports like this one.

I think it only lights if you are not in a mode. And with the code the way it is now it is pretty easy to skate from mode to mode with no break.

Thanks for sharing.

Hey all - I think this was reported earlier, but I was streaming tonight and got the video mode bug. Sending to Stern now...

https://www.twitch.tv/videos/119564787

What is the "rubber over the slimer" mod/trick?

Thanks!

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Received my new replacement ecto googles LCD screen under warranty as promised my Stern. Took 20 minutes to install and now works perfectly again. Plan on buying the plastic air ball protector mod listed in this thread. The old screen took a hit to the bottom and cracked the screen all the way up.

Got it done of the weekend. Thanks!

I just noticed while playing tonight that the cabinet decal is starting to fray a bit at the left side edge near the front of the game. I assume this is happening because the exposed edge of the decal is constantly being rubbed by my hand while flipping. This is the only Stern I own where the decals don't wrap around the edge. You can see from the photos that there is a gap between the side decals and the front decal on both sides of the game. Are all Ghostbuster premiums like this, or did they mess mine up at the factory?

P1070940 (resized).JPG
P1070936 (resized).JPG

Not sure why in the hell they did that, any idiot would know that is going to become a problem. This has been discussed before but I'm not sure what people are doing about it? I don't know if they all are done that way or not? Can't wait to see some people chime in about this.

I have a November playfield on my GB premium and it's like that as well, just looked .
I seem to be mentioning this stuff alot lately, but maybe throw some of that clear removable mylar around the corner and down both sides to " wrap " it . Maybe cover about a 1/2 in of each decal , front and side, then apply the mylar vertically down the cabinet corner.
https://www.amazon.com/Clear-Repositionable-Adhesive-Backed-Cutters-Punches/dp/B013Z7DZA6/ref=pd_lutyp_simh_1_1

Added link

Mine is also not wrapped. 11/16 build. My hands stay on the lockdown when playing so im not too concerned

IMG_6794 (resized).JPG

Mine is doing it too on the right side. Mine is a mid November build. I have no idea why they did this. First I trimmed it back a little. I have cut a clear piece of vinyl and wrapped the corner on both sides to protect the edges.

Hoby1, why did you change your leg protectors? Did you not like the factory stand off ones?

Weird how the decals are completely different colors. Its not even close to one another .

a73c009c431ab002590b85877458ad57ec10d7e2 (resized).jpg

4a87acc78d16452685507828c3589c788d249912 (resized).jpg

So it looks like I'm not alone, at least not when it comes to the more recent builds (mine is October). Why did Stern stop wrapping the decals? Was it to save money on the extra couple inches? What a terrible decision.

I thought the new Stern metal ones were the best type to prevent damage/wrinkling ?

I picked up a set of lollipops to try and avoid anything happening to those decals. That might cover this up and keep it pealing back or getting worse.

Yep. That's about the only way I can think of to address this problem.

Anymore replacement playfield swaps happening?

had my pro swapped on the weekend. only 55 games in or so, drain and inserts good so far (not out of the woods yet), but had some clear chip out of the right eject area yesterday.

picture here on this thread https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hey-stern-are-you-serious/page/110#post-3586411

also, my replacement playfield date is unreadable. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/changeorg-petition-gary-stern-replace-defective-playfields/page/17#post-3580766