What im talking about has nothing to do with not making it through the orbit. The ball clearly hits the gets and bounces back then down to the pops.

The real question is when that gate is supposed to be open and closed...

Huh? My issue is with the autolauncher, not the plunge...

I thought you were trying to test if the left gate opens on an autolaunch if the skill shot is still active. I was simply suggesting an easy method to test this without taking off the glass.

Is anyone else having problems with the right orbit? If you rip a shot into it . . . the ball jumps or hits Stay Puft or goes in the shooter lane or any place other than going smoothly trough the orbit. I can understand the airballs but that orbit shot is a pisser. Amazing game (albeit difficult) other wise.

This problem is being discussed over in the other thread:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ghostbusters-club-we-got-one/page/39#post-3536295

I think there are a couple of factors at play. A fast moving ball tends to get some air as it passes over the drop target. Combine this with the hairpin turn at the back of the orbit, and it's a recipe for disaster. Some have indicated that the problem can be tamed somewhat by increasing the playfield pitch to 6.5 or even 7 degrees, and making sure that your game is precisely level. You should also verify that your drop target is sitting as flush as possible with the playfield. If you're having problems with that switch registering, try adjusting it so it is more sensitive.

I have 127 plays on my GB Pro (1.11) and just today I'm experiencing issues with the Left Ramp Coil. I went into the service mode and tested the coil - I saw it was barely pulling the diverter. I cut the power, powered the game back on and ran the test again and the diverter pulled just fine. My first game it seemed to work, and the following game my diverter quit again. I ran the coil test again - same issue. The coil won't pull the diverter mech.

Anyone else experiencing this or know possible causes?

It sounds like a mechanical issue with the coil. Maybe it's binding? I think my game had something similar happen for a short while where it wasn't diverting balls on the ramp. But, it suddenly wasn't a problem any more so I've not done anything further with it.

Rob

Yes this has been my last issue to take care of .
No matter what I did the ball would hit that right one gate and rattle around on hard hit shots .
I even used my dremel and cut that front bottom corner off the gate , but it didn't help
So I just removed the gate all together, and it plays great . Alot more flow and speed now .
I figure the ball spends enough time n the pops as it is .

My GB premium is on order so I don't have it yet. Does removing the gate change game play? What is the gate's purpose?

Removing this gate really does not change anything, it's not wired up and doesn't register anything.
It's purpose is to drop the ball into the lanes and pops from the left orbit, It doesn't allow the ball to make a full orbit from left to right . It's a one way gate That's it.

Edit: removing the small plastic under stay put man is required to remove gate assy. , 2 nuts.

I adjusted how my right gate lined up. I took my right gate off, and added washers (2 thicker ones I think) under the bracket for one screw so the gate would line up better with the orbit. This seemed to help a LOT.

So I got my new boards today.

Looks like I got a revised node 8 it is a completely different part number. Got my new CPU installed as well. Looks like it fixed everything expect for the fact that the playfield GI would still flicker and dim. So... right back to were I was before. I traced the problem back to the node 8d board... ugh. If I leave this board unhooked the game plays like a champ for hours on end no flicker... moment you hook that board up... game starts flickering and acting werid. So... I think it's safe to say I finally killed off my last gremlin. They are sending me out a new node 8d and I hope to God this is the last board I replace in this damn thing. Game has been out of commision for almost a month... damn it feels good to play GB again. Ready to put this one to bed!!

Interesting, I can try that .

Dip switches on the node board set right?

Rob

Is the right orbit issue a design flaw or a code issue where maybe the opto isn't on? I've fixed pretty much every other issue on my premium but this. It used to be about once every several shots wouldn't register but twice tonight I shot 3 in a row they didn't register.

Should I call my distributor and have him look at it? Or is there nothing that can be done?

I've only seen it not register on solid shots or repeated shots so I assume it was a physical switch adjustment problem.

This happened on my pro too. I think you just need to keep playing and the ball will eventually slow down a little and it hopefully won't be an issue any more.

Rob

Is it normal to get huge air balls off the left scolari? It will fly in he air and hit the wire ramp from the PKE shot sometimes

Are the drops not dropping when you hit them?

They drop 100% of the time alway have .

So it hits the drop target, it drops, but bounces back as an airball? On occasion this happens. I tilted my drop slightly by wedging a thin piece of styrene under the front of the bracket and made sure the target was centered. This helps a little with rebound air balls, but the main reason I did it was to smooth the transition to the Cliffy on the drop target. I was getting massive air balls with the drop down, as the ball would gain just a slight amount of air passing over the Cliffy and then ricochet off the left ramp launching it wherever.

Also try reducing coil power. Even on low/soft/whatever, it seems too strong.

Yea pretty much I am on the lower coil power but can't say it helped much seems about the same .

It decreases dramatically, Adam, after a while.....I went from this happening once every 10 games, to hardly any at all.

The adjustment solutions....all do work if needed...just enjoy the crazy way the game plays!

Maybe it's my build date (12/16) but the brothers are snappy with no airballs here.

Oh yes, and Arts sling protectors work and look great! Thanks again Art!

My pleasure! 3 or 4 sets left for a bit.
Too cold to cut, Im told.

After a few weeks, I am really appreciating your protectors Art. They are discreet and I am not experiencing the frustrating hop outs from inlane bound balls. The game is tough enough already.

I've heard people say that the PBL Scolari springs cause "too much machine gunning." What does this lingo mean? I tried the pull up/shorten spring trick to increase tension and still, most of the time the Scolari targets only go down is with backhand shots.

Basically means the spring is too strong so the target can't stay up (or the ledge is too weak/broken), as the spring pulls it back down right away. The game will try to pop it back up over and over again, hence the machine-gunning.

If you shortened the spring already, you can try shortening it more, or just wait for it to break in. I'd say go ahead and shorten it a few more rings...

There are two flashers on the backboard. I noticed during test mode that the one on the right is not nearly as bright as the one on the left. Is this normal, or do I need to take a closer look at what might be going on?

Gotcha. It helped! What does the other spring on the assembly do? Trying to locate the Scolari drop target Assembly in the manual as well for reference.

I was going to cut a rubber post sleeve to place around the outer lane posts to help prevent drains but I have no idea what size sleeve(s) to get, can someone help me? If anyone has a extra(s) black one they want to sell and mail me that'd be great too. Thank you!

Going off memory... there is the main spring that should be obvious and pulls the target down. This is the one you shortened. I think there is a second spring that is placed on the top of the two posts that connect the target to the assembly. The two posts are secured with an e clip, easy to remove but be careful because parts can go flying if not removed carefully. The second spring, I would guess, just holds the target forward so it's over the ledge that keeps it up.

Ok I searched but cannot for the life of me find it with so many post.
Right ramp on my Premium the balls loses momentum before reaching the top, what was the fix? Was it a hex post or something else? Thanks

1 5/8" hex post. Female threaded on both ends. 6/32 screw size. (I just ordered one today

Where can you buy just one?

My local Ace Hardware sells them.

How much shorter is that than the stock one?

I think the stock is 2".

How deep do the threads go? Can one simply take a stock post and grind it down a bit? I probably wouldn't need the full 3/8 inches removed. A hard shot on my game will always make it all the way around. It's just the lighter shots that occasionally get rejected. I'm thinking a very small change will make the shot perfect.

got an online link? Marco sell them?

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/254-5008-13

this one work? I have a Pro and I've never gotten my ball to go all the way up the right ramp

^^^
Yes thats the one I bought.

Yeah, it's called a 1-5/8" hex post!

Seriously, can some one mail me one ?
Not available at local ace for me and I don't want to just order one .

Also any way to retro fit a one way gate , like the one on the entrance to the right orbit , for the back right orbit issues ?
Does that make sense , Ha !

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=358

Pinball Life sells them. (Scroll to the 1-5/8")
Ask Terry politely and he MIGHT help you with shipping for just that one tiny piece if you don't need other stuff.

WHere is the post don't even see it on my premium ?

It's the hex post holding up the right ramp? There is a screw that secures the habitrail to it.

Underneath the first screw after the plastic roundabout.

Not sure why, but it appears that this game has been really scarring my pinballs at an overly advanced rate. Like, a week in home use play and they're already toast. I recently fixed Scolari targets so they don't stand like bricks. Wondering if anyone else had any other suggestions to dial in the game so the balls don't get roughed up. Thanks

Mylar everything metal that the ball touches.