Sorry to hear you had an issue and it's good that you got the culprit discovered, but Hey! no need to throw all mods under the bus because of it.

I have sold 100s of Speaker Light Kits for SPIKE games and 0 reports of any electrical or game related issues from them. If someone else makes a mod that is causing issues (or maybe it was just something wired incorrectly or went wrong with that one mod you received) it is no reason to make it seem like an issue with other mods.

I would contact whoever you got the mod from to let them know and try to see if it was a one time issue or possibly something just with the one you received or your game specifically for some reason.

Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)

Just picked up my premium yesterday, and I'm trying to figure out if my switches and gates are working properly. When is a shot to the ecto goggles supposed to go all the way around, and when is the gate supposed to stop it and direct it to the pops? The ball is sometimes getting hung up. I think this is caused by the left controlled gate, but it may also be an issue with the right gate. For example, a hard plunge seems to slow down at the left gate, but I think that could be because the right gate is slightly altering the trajectory. A slightly softer plunge seems to make it all the way around just fine. Does anyone have any insight into what might be going on here?

OK - kpg asked for date stamp photos of my replacement playfield. There seems to be one blurry stamp (9/28), and one hand written (9/21) - Anyway, I am happy and everything looks fantastic.

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Hey GB guys ... without me wading through 48 pages, has anyone's else's GB Pro been rebooting in the middle of a game?

rd

Post 159:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ghostbusters-v112-code-talk/page/4#post-3530596

My Pro has never. 6months, 800 +\- plays.

Bug in the latest code

I have had this happen 4 times now so far in the 2 weeks I've had the pin. I'll be playing and the audio will start cutting out or lagging behind, then the animations will go on the DMD, then I'll lose insert lighting but the coils will still fire and kick the ball around. Then finally it will reboot itself.

No real consistency to when or why it happens either. Has this been reported before either with this code or previously? I thought I had read up on most of the issues but this one was new to me and my dist.

Sorry,thats 12-29-16! I have ecto goggle plate and Left scoop weldment as well!!

You should ask that Stern rep if the metal wires sticking out of the slimers azz is supposed to scratch the hell out of your playfield also. I bet he'd probably tell you yes!

Lol! Did he really say that it was to emulate sliming? That's hilarious! I can buy that a bit of dragging is normal or at least non impacting, but definitely not for that reason.

Haha, awesome.
Guess it's now considered a "feature."
No wonder they keep hiking up the prices, "feature" list just keeps growing and growing!

Guess my POS GBP is not worth much anymore since it's missing that bit of realism.

Kinda like my dog butt-scooting?

Exactly Art, it's kind of the same thing. Only thing different is he's leaving poop stains on your new carpet instead of slime!

Toby's new trick!

Haha that's one of the best commercials ever!

Less than 50 plays and the #8 node board is out.

Slimer dragging his butt seems like an adjustment issue.
Some slimers drag while others not from mixed time frames. (Mine never dragged with a late Sept. build-date.)
The Premium arm is at an angle. If the mount under the playfield was leveled , shimmed or adjusted, this should affect the swing & clearance.
(DON'T try to bend any part of the arm-assy. Someone tried that & its bad)
The washer trick under the slimer arm is also a common thing I see people doing, but you can just loosen the set screw in the slimer arm, slide the arm up slightly, lock it down and it wont move.

Does look pretty satisfying when the dog does that... I wonder if I could... ahh better not

Strange this scoop is a sore spot for me to. The steel lever the ball sits on keeps popping off. I bent it in a little thinking it was to close to the plunger. It hasn't snapped off since and got fingers crossed

I bent my slimmer up no but drag

welcome to the club

I had to do the same as well. They were causing ridiculous air balls and even hitting the glass occasionally. I tried adjusting the height of the targets slightly to compensate for the thickness of the cliffys and allow for a smoother transition as the ball rolls over the targets. I fiddled with that for a few days and it did help quite a bit but I'd still get the occasional air ball...enough that it took away from the gameplay. I finally gave in and took them out.
Looking back now, just the fact that you're adding this edge that the ball has to pass over at high speeds right in the middle of the playfield actually makes me wonder how some don't have any issues with them at all.

i said it before to NOT dot it, airballs there are logical, even it the cliffy is thin...
and i like what Cliffy does for us, but there you have to deal without nothing, and just perfectly set-up right the heigh of the targets

I just installed the full Cliffy set and have no issues with air balls from the drop targets. It did take me about 15 minutes to make sure everything was completely flush. One thing I had to do that others may not have thought about was to push the bracket forward and backwards to change the pitch of the target from front to back. I was having issues until I figured that piece out and now it's one smooth transition.

Just my 2 cents on what worked for me.

This. One additional thing I did was use a screw under the playfield to secure the cliffy. This pulls the cliffy slightly, which helps keep it flatter (at least on my machine). I didn't want to remove the cliffy's because there was obvious dinging/chipping at the rear of the target -- mind you, VERY small -- the kind of thing only a pinsider would notice. But, I don't want it to get any worse. I've spent a good amount of time adjusting heights, pitch, etc. and I think I got it. Hard to say because airballs can be caused by lots of things and with the ball travelling so fast, even at 240fps I had to go frame to frame to troubleshoot. Seems better though -- might not be 100%.

I changed my spring on the autolauncher and I noticed that whenever the autolauncher is used, the ball will not orbit but instead gets sent down to the PKE letters. Can anyone confirm that this is normal? Seems that the gate is intentionally staying closed to not let the ball through. For example, a "saved ball" will get autolaunched......

happens...

its why most pins have screws rolling around in the cabinets

Same here. I've gone through two node 8 boards...now they are telling me they think it's the CPU. Still waiting on the CPU board... have a feeling this isn't over yet.

I have used no cliffys on my 11/16 PF so far. Eject on lowest power, mylar on shooter, coil settings on low, outholes covered with cliffy factory style protector, mylar on S/B bro targets and adjusted correctly so the height of the target is a ( c@#t hair above the PF ). No issue thus far after two months.

Ball will not even touch the S/B target edge if adjusted correctly . Take your time and do it right. Adjust a second time after 100 plays or so after it settles.

You put mylar on the target itself?

No...Made a rectangle with rounded the edges. Cleaned PF with rubbing alcohol. Installed the mylar then used an exacto knife and carefully cut out the inside around the edge and removed excess.

I'd like to know the answer to this as well. When exactly is the gate supposed to be open, and when is it supposed to be closed?

How did you adjust the drop targets? More accurate question, how do you adjust the drop targets?

Two screws on each assembly. Only adjust 1/16 to 1/8 turn each time you measure. Use a credit card and slide along PF so the card barely hits the target. That way the ball will never touch the edge

Is the purpose of the cliffy to protect against the ball striking the edge of the playfield, or to protect against the targets bashing into the playfield after being struck by the ball?

I think the latter. In my case, it was obvious the targets when hit hard enough were rubbing on the playfield. It may have been for milliseconds, but still happening.

I disagree, as the angle of the target would let it glide downward. Not saying this dose not happen but the main issue is from the ball striking the PF edge.

Yeah this, too... especially if the target sits too low as the ball will hit the edge. On mine, I couldn't even get the Cliffy in without sanding the target down, as it was incredibly tight. The ball can hit the target ridiculously hard, and I think the playfield edge is the weakest spot. Even though the target is tapered, it can still, on some machines, rub the playfield in the right circumstances.

Not sure about those cliffy drop target protectors.

1. They look really ugly. 2. Do they even protect where they need to?

Agree they aren't great looking but with the Cliffys on the scoops, honestly, I hardly notice them. My experience is yes for #2, though every machine is a bit different. I didn't put mine on until a little wear starting showing up along that back ledge. YMMV.

Main wear is from the ball hitting the edge period. Look at MB,AFM,MM, TAF.... ect, ect .Same effect on games with drop targets. Theres an edge to wear. Why do you think games have wear at the inserts. Its because they are not perfectly even when they raise or sink.

Trust me if you ask Cliffy Im sure he will tell you the same thing. From the ball hitting the edge of a not perfectly smooth surface and not because the drop is rubbing as it goes down.

You would think Stern would have a test set up to test nodes and CPU boards.

It was rubbing on mine as it dropped when hit hard enough. Doesn't happen on my other machines. The important thing is to be able to assess what is going on and decide how to correct ... recording at 240fps helps quite a bit.

Could've sanded it down and may have been ok, but because damage began, I figured protecting it was prudent.

Can anyone chime in on when the gate is supposed to be opened and closed?

As I was saying, it opens for the plunge, but seems to close on my machine for all autolaunches. I have never seen the autolaunch perform an orbit. Is this normal?

The ball should go all the way around the orbit from an auto-plunge if the skill shot is still available. If you hit something and disable the skill shot then you drain and get an auto-plunge the gate will not open and it should drop into the pops.

Hmmmnn, ill have to test while the skill shot is still available.

Is there any other time that the gate will be opened for the autolaunch? Thanks for your input...

It's easy to test it. Just do a full plunge and don't flip. Most likely, the ball will drain before the hitting one of the skill shots and before the ball saver runs out.

Not sure on that one. Maybe if a mode was running during that time and the orbit is lit up. I would assume that the gate would be open. There is a switch in the orbit behind Stay Puft that is responsible for opening the gate. Sometimes you'll get zingers that will miss the switch and the gate won't open. Or you'll hit the switch the gate opens then the ball hits something funky and rattles around back down into the pops. It's super important that you have your game leveled and pitched properly. I had some problems with this and I eventually got rid of it by perfectly leveling side to side and running around 6.8-7 degree pitch.