Switch test didnt do much but it gave me an alert that there is a subway lock malfunction.

Not really sure what to do.

Talked to Stern and they are sending me Opto replacements. Think its the 3rd opto not registering and it throwing off a lot of modes... annoying...

Just put a dab of glue in the rubber seam and it will just be like a sleeve...

does anyone have a fix for the ball just endlessly staying in the pops near the gozer target???? It just goes back and forth and its driving me crazy, and I shouldn't have to nudge it every time it goes there either. These friggin pops are driving me crazy, it stays in there for waaay to long. I have tried the different power options in the settings and nothing works. I shouldn't write angry but I am getting that way about the design of this machine that stops it from being fun. I hate it when the ball goes into the pops now.

Thanks for that I am going to try this for sure. The ball hits the middle metal and is like a magnet and gets sucked over to the side, its unreal how many times it happens on this pin.

Thank you, thank you. I had seen this posted before but it just registered when I read your post, "this is what I need to do". What a difference. Look I appreciate the game being difficult, but these outlanes can be ridiculous with no chance of nudging with metal ball on metal post. Any ball with any kind of spin on it just gets sucked into the outlanes like the magnaslings are there and wah wah. This might be the .39 cent mod that makes the game much more fair and enjoyable.

Haha I just noticed your post. I guess we feel the same about the outlanes. Try it, I think you'll be very pleased.

Going to do this tomorrow as long as I can find some spare rubbers.
And then I need to fix those stupid bumpers

What pitch do you have the playfield at? Try increasing the pitch by raising the back legs a bit. I find 7 degrees works well.

Rob

I will try that Rob I just have the bubble in the middle at the moment.

Agreed, I have mine around 7 and it stays up there once in a great while but never for long periods of time like some people report.

I noticed these weird marks on my insert and cant quite make out what it is exactly. Almost looks like scratches either under the mylar or on the insert itself. Not sure its a big enough deal to complain about. Was somewhat hard to take pics but here you go. Some angles you see it and some you dont.

IMG_0077 (resized).JPG

IMG_0076 (resized).JPG

IMG_0078 (resized).JPG

IMG_0079 (resized).JPG

You are seeing an issue in the plastic, and while it should not be there, IMO, It is "Normal" for this game.

Normal crazing. Happens during the sanding process when it opens fissures in the insert At the very minimum you can rest a sure the clear has a good bite on the insert and should not ghost

Thanks guys. Its slightly annoying as you can see it with the lights on, but sounds like its something that wont get worse, so im fine with it... everything else seems good on the field...

HELP!
Got my Premium yesterday and besides the crazy random and consistent air balls I am having issues with the ball not making it out of the subway tunnel. I remember others mentioning this but can't seem to find the fix for it. Any help would be appreciated.

FYI, I have the bubble sitting in the middle of the level but it is right on the bottom line. The game is so fast I was hoping that would slow it down a bit.

Thank you!

Most times the trouble exiting the subway is an alignment problem of the subway under the playfield.
Lift the playfield , loosen the screws where the pieces comes together and align them better (center).
I know its been covered on pinside somewhere....

So, of course last night before I have 20 guests over tonight my gb :premiums lower GI and flippers both go dead and then come back on.
It happened 2 or 3 times but seems fine now.
Could this be a loose connection or something more eminent to come ?
I would nor think flippers and gi would be wired together , I did install a shaker last week.

Are you still on 1.05?

If so, update to the latest (or at least the 1.10) code before your node 8 board takes the final dump.
(Node management is important...)
Also,
Check left scoop flasher for possible grounding, yada yada.

What Chucksmith said is correct.
The biggest issue for me was the alignment under the playfield where the metal meets the plastic ramp.
On mine the metal ramp had slid itself just a touch to the right/outside edge of the playfield.
Loosen the set screw and pull it back to direct center and tighten the hell out of it with a hex nut screwdriver.
If this does not fix it some people have placed a small piece of electrical tape in the little metal loops just before the ball drops down below the playfield to help slow it down.
Let us know if you get it working. It surely makes the game play much better.
Also know that on mode start shots on the left ramp, the ball will be held under the playfield while the mode intro's play on the DMD.
So only shots that are not starting a mode or locking a ball will return up the ramp.

Yes still on 1.05, didn't realize code woikd effect the node board .
Have placed protection on left scoop.

Mine did the same thing as what you were describing but I wasn't fortunate enough to update the code in time. Once the new board showed up I dropped the 1.11 code (now 1.12) and it's been trouble free ever since.
Nothing was grounding out, everything wire/cable-wise was checked and secured/working fine beforehand.

Yep, all about the alignment. I have a post somewhere here on this, but if you can hold the ball with a magnet while pf is up, you can slide the ball along the rails and see... on mine, it was pretty obvious how the ball was getting dislodged, losing momentum and not making it out. Since correcting with a small shim, I've had a 100% success rate after hundreds of balls...

Also to add,
Crazy as it sounds, game actually plays better around the 6.8-7 degree range.
(Setting your coil pulse down one notch helps too.)
That will help your subway problem a bit by slowing the ball down enough on the entrance ramp to allow the smooth steady drop it needs to flow back to the flippers and also lessens the angle needed to make it out the other side. Any fast moving ball across the top before it hits the drop into the subway will rattle around causing it to stall in the subway for the eventual ball search scoop kickout.

Besides the pitch correction Rok, GBP needs a bit of extra work on your part to dial in the rest of the PF to make it shoot as smooth as butter.
(Like with what was said above me by arcade/bhwolf.)

How long did it take them to come to a decision??

Concerning the switch at top of left ramp...I can never find the sweet spot on this. When I bend it out to get more consistent switch activation I will eventually get times where the switch will actually stop the balls path on ramp hits which are not hard or clean. Only way to clear is to pull glass down and push it through. Then I adjust it back just a touch and I'm back to only 2/3 of my ramp hits registering (or maybe 1/2). This is getting frustrating. Any better and more permanent fixes for this switch? Wonder why they just didn't put an opto here?
Thanks.
Darin

Chas has recommended slightly loosening the two screws holding the switch on the ramp. He said that sometimes they are overtightened at the factory, chasing the actuator to not easily activate. I would try that.

This is definatly the case..... I replaced both ramp switch"s and lowered my R Ramp cover plastic and no get zero misreads. Just snug the screws till they just touch plus a little extra. ( I would replace also ).

Hmmm guess I'm not the only one. My GB did the exact same thing. The lower portion of the play-field was losing all power intermittently then would immediately come back on... this went on for a few days. I looked all over the damn underside for a loose connector but never could find it. Re-seated most of the connectors on the boards etc... nothing. The other morning I go in to turn on my game and poof right scoop coil locks on burns up....game is dead. I guess they are going to send me out a new coil and board... if that is the only problem. I certainly hope this doesn't happen to you but it's funny because my game did the exact same thing before it died. What a pain in the ass...ugh. I've been on 1.11-1.12 since the day it came out.

what kind of switch did you replace with? Only thing I have on hand are some standard B/W rollover switches. Also, what size nut driver for those small nuts on the switch. The smallest one I have is still too big.

thanks.

Broke my ecto googles LCD screen today with an air ball. Game Room Guys was nice enough to send me a side protector for it, but it did not help. Had an air ball off the left flipper and it was a direct hit on the screen. Anyone make a protector for airballs that do not originate from the left side of the play field?

Also, installed 1.12. Installed correctly according to the display screen; however, Slimer quit moving and would also not respond to commands to move in the diagnostic menu either. Checked the fuse for the motor and it was good. Checked for 24V and was good. Re-installed 1.10 and Slimer worked again. Downloaded 1.12 again and re-installed and Slimer started working again and the diagnostic commands were different also. I'm wondering if a Node board did not update correctly the first time. Anyway, working now.

I just installed this mod on my machine :

Blog Post :
https://pinballsupernova.wordpress.com/2016/12/17/mod-install-hooked-on-pinballs-ghostbusters-ecto-goggles-protector-install-and-review-video/

YouTube :

Ok .... Im on 1.12 now.... Got to we came, we saw we kicked some ass but the insert never lit and the ghosts never went about 80. Anyone else have this issue.

Also Slimer sometimes does not light solid on the first play after turning on sometimes.

Order this item.
http://www.hookedonpinball.com/store/p102/Ghostbusters_Ecto_Goggle_protector.html

Call Stern tech support to see if they will send you a new one. Take photo before you call. They will ask to see it.

I keep getting airballs hitting the glass on the way up the storage ramp. We need a plastic to cover the entire ramp. I tried the coil strength already. Can someone confirm the coil strength setting name?

Really weird....you may be the 7th or 8th person to mention this need.
Personally, I have never had this happen.

I fail to understand why.

Unless there is a need for hundreds, you might have to craft one yourself.
Or find something existing for another game, and see if you can adapt it.

I've had maybe 3 balls hit the glass over 3 months (which is pretty upsetting when it happens) where the ball hits X2 target which has only a small amount of airball plastic over-hang.
X3 never does it. I've noticed the airballs are less violent when you increase the pitch to 7+ degrees, but then I also find the ramps more difficult to make. Currently the bubble is centered and I make ramps easily with only a few airballs. But I hitting the glass is terrible feeling.

Anyone has a noise like it's fireing something at the end of boot with 1.12 on a pro ? Just started it after software update and don't think anything to worry about just weird.

Don't buy a WH2O then...
It's actually considered a fun little bonus feature.

As for your airball protector,
Just buy some lexan for a couple of bucks at one of the big box stores and freeform your own like so.

Airballs are now a distant memory.

IMG_4460 (resized).JPG

He needs a piece of plastic that covers the whole ramp.

Tough to anchor.

Sorry Art...
I just thought from his wording above he was saying that the X2 target was still giving him airballs because there wasn't enough plastic overhang in front of the target... which is what I discovered as well after playing with a few design shapes.

No worries here...thought maybe you had something you made that would help him.

I can only think of something anchored at the top plastic, but short of drilling the ramp,
has anyone made a 1-off full ramp plastic?

(thanks for the agreeable "Stars" post! )

I don't really have airballs off the ramp issues after turning down the coil voltage and raising the back levelers up a bit more.
Only way to do a "complete" protector would be to vacuum form something for the ramp and the targets together without hindering the ball at the start of the first 1/4 of the ramp.
That of course would look like complete ass (think POTC salad bar) and ruin the sexy steel look Dr. Flash envisioned.
It's bad enough that I eventually had to put one above the targets in the first place.

So theres no one on here that can verify this ? Any info would be helpful.

well than, insert just light before the mode, but not more in it (think before it was lit during it, not sure)
and dont understand about the 80 ghosts !? i've gone again to 100 ghosts & MH multiball yesterday...

Getting a bunch of metal flakes on the playfield. Looks like it's from the bent metal that holds the captive ball on the left.

Still not sure why people love this game with all the flaws it has from the factory

So did this happen when you were running newer 1.12 code or prior to upgrading ?
Also , what was the reason the coil locked on ?
Loose wire , grounding out ???

Not good at all, I really hope Stern start getting a grip on these QC issues and get their sh*t together ASAP, I love ALOT of their games but at least make us feel like we are getting a good deal/our monies worth for what we are paying.