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(Topic ID: 158288)

Ghostbuster Issue Thread


By exflexer

4 years ago



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  • 4,469 posts
  • 528 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 12 days ago by mrm_4
  • Topic is favorited by 149 Pinsiders

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55 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 4469 posts in this topic. You are on page 38 of 90.
#1851 4 years ago
Quoted from CoasterG:

What's the spelling error? Now I want to check my playfield.

Reinforcement - Reinforcment on the 40 ghost insert.

#1852 4 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

I'm getting these 3 switch messages on a new GB Prem. Running 1.11. The switch at the top of the left ramp tests out fine. Anyone know what this is or have suggestions on other things I can test?

If you look at the manual there is not even a switch in the 90's.
It's a bug but does not effect game play. But I wish it was fixed. No value in tech alert if it does not work.

#1853 4 years ago

Have many people have tried the spring coil adjustment to improve the scoleri bros dropping? It seems that it's a nice easy fix I'm just wondering if long term it could cause the target or shelf to snap/break? If you did it, how many loops did you move up? I'm thinking 10 rings is a good start - did it make a big difference if you tried it? I'd say hard shots are about a 65% rejection currently.

#1854 4 years ago
Quoted from Junglist:

Have many people have tried the spring coil adjustment to improve the scoleri bros dropping? It seems that it's a nice easy fix I'm just wondering if long term it could cause the target or shelf to snap/break? If you did it, how many loops did you move up? I'm thinking 10 rings is a good start - did it make a big difference if you tried it? I'd say hard shots are about a 65% rejection currently.

I did last night & it worked great. I previously purchased the PBL replacement springs which are much shorter than the OEMs. Because I read of issues with using these, I decided to adjust the OEM springs. About 10 rings - try less if you are concerned. Very noticeable difference.

#1855 4 years ago
Quoted from Junglist:

Have many people have tried the spring coil adjustment to improve the scoleri bros dropping? It seems that it's a nice easy fix I'm just wondering if long term it could cause the target or shelf to snap/break? If you did it, how many loops did you move up? I'm thinking 10 rings is a good start - did it make a big difference if you tried it? I'd say hard shots are about a 65% rejection currently.

I was getting maybe 80% rejects on hard hits. but side or glancing or light taps worked fine.
I adjusted by about 10 coils each and now after several days = 0 rejects and I've hit them hard dead center with no fails yet.
Its really nice to have them working. I used to dread the Scolari brothers popping up, but no longer.

#1856 4 years ago
Quoted from Junglist:

Have many people have tried the spring coil adjustment to improve the scoleri bros dropping? It seems that it's a nice easy fix I'm just wondering if long term it could cause the target or shelf to snap/break?

Adjusted target springs about 10 coils in since day one. Currently just past 10,000 plays and no target failure or defects.

#1857 4 years ago
Quoted from ExtremePinball:

Adjusted target springs about 10 coils in since day one. Currently just past 10,000 plays and no target failure or defects.

Wow 10,000 plays is impressive - At $1 per play?

#1858 4 years ago
Quoted from ExtremePinball:

Adjusted target springs about 10 coils in since day one. Currently just past 10,000 plays and no target failure or defects.

would be good to get some feedback on the areas the machine has after this number of plays, anything that might be worth doing as preventative...

thanks,
neil.

#1859 4 years ago
Quoted from kermit24:

Wow 10,000 plays is impressive - At $1 per play?

Yes, exactly. And that's still less than half of what my Iron Man Vault has accumulated so far, with about 22,000+ plays.

Quoted from NeilMcRae:

would be good to get some feedback on the areas the machine has after this number of plays, anything that might be worth doing as preventative...
thanks,
neil.

Prior to putting out on the street: Mylar the shooter lane, in front of slingshots, and under any ball drop areas. Tightened & glued all hardware under the playfield. Replaced a few rubbers with polyurethane superbands. Replaced balls with higher quality than factory, and keep replacing every month or so. Clean & wax often.

#1860 4 years ago
Quoted from cooked71:

What code are you on?

I'm on 1.11, haven't had any real problems although there are some bugs in it. Doesn't detract from the fun for us though.

#1861 4 years ago
Quoted from ExtremePinball:

Adjusted target springs about 10 coils in since day one. Currently just past 10,000 plays and no target failure or defects.

I'm getting mine next week...So if I understand you correctly there's no need to buy new springs ? (don't know why Stern wouldn't fix this before shipping)

What type of adjustment did you do...is it through the diagnostics or manually adjusting them?

Thx - Tony

#1862 4 years ago
Quoted from 3pinballs:

What type of adjustment did you do...is it through the diagnostics or manually adjusting them?

You would raise the playfield, locate the springs, unhook the bottom of the spring and re-attach with about 10 spring coils hanging below the attachment hook.

#1863 4 years ago
Quoted from ExtremePinball:

You would raise the playfield, locate the springs, unhook the bottom of the spring and re-attach with about 10 spring coils hanging below the attachment hook.

so you don't use the holes at the end of the springs you just go up 10 coils and open up the spring and use that circle of the coil and re-attach?

#1864 4 years ago
Quoted from 3pinballs:

so you don't use the holes at the end of the springs you just go up 10 coils and open up the spring and use that circle of the coil and re-attach?

Exactly.

#1865 4 years ago

out of curiosity....If Stern knows this is a problem why don't they remedy it at the factory? I know JJP when they know of an issue they fix it.

#1866 4 years ago

No comment.

#1867 4 years ago
Quoted from 3pinballs:

out of curiosity....If Stern knows this is a problem why don't they remedy it at the factory? I know JJP when they know of an issue they fix it.

Yup, they send you precut mylar sheet!

#1868 4 years ago

I hear you and understand!

#1869 4 years ago

This question is about the updated Slimer mech. My Pro came with it and I just noticed over the last 20 games or so I really can hear his motor whirring when activated. It used to be perfectly quiet. Anyone have this issue or have any ideas on how to troubleshoot?

#1870 4 years ago
Quoted from 3pinballs:

I'm getting mine next week...So if I understand you correctly there's no need to buy new springs ? (don't know why Stern wouldn't fix this before shipping)
What type of adjustment did you do...is it through the diagnostics or manually adjusting them?
Thx - Tony

Mine that I got last week works perfect so maybe hey I've put new springs ?

Quoted from Fitzhume:

This question is about the updated Slimer mech. My Pro came with it and I just noticed over the last 20 games or so I really can hear his motor whirring when activated. It used to be perfectly quiet. Anyone have this issue or have any ideas on how to troubleshoot?

Look a few pages back somone has a misaligned belt maybe that's your issue ?

-1
#1871 4 years ago

Did the outlane rail mod on both sides. I gotta say, it does significantly reduce the fast drains, but the ball will still drain (normally) on both sides if hit squarely. Otherwise, it serves as a good diversion on borderline drains and airballs, yet keeps the ball in play notably longer. Moving the posts upwards gives the ball a decent gap to drain as well. The game play is now more fun

outlane_rails_modification (resized).jpg

#1872 4 years ago

Has anyone else installed the 1 5/8" hex spacer for the right ramp on pre/LE?

Just wondering if others had the same great results I had.

#1873 4 years ago

Yes, did it last week.
This, paired with the entry adjustment, yields much better flow to the ramp now.

#1874 4 years ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

Did the outlane rail mod on both sides. I gotta say, it does significantly reduce the fast drains, but the ball will still drain (normally) on both sides if hit squarely. Otherwise, it serves as a good diversion on borderline drains and airballs, yet keeps the ball in play notably longer. Moving the posts upwards gives the ball a decent gap to drain as well. The game play is now more fun

You already got beat up pretty bad for this in the other thread, glutton for punishment?

#1875 4 years ago
Quoted from lapean111:

You already got beat up pretty bad for this in the other thread, glutton for punishment?

Didn't get beat up too bad. I just think it's an improvement, but some guys just don't understand. I can handle it.

Most owners wouldn't dare drill a hole on a playfield. No guts no glory.

#1876 4 years ago
Quoted from Trekkie1978:

Has anyone else installed the 1 5/8" hex spacer for the right ramp on pre/LE?
Just wondering if others had the same great results I had.

I couldn't find a spacer , so I switched things around on the slingshot end and lowered the wire form exit by about 1/4 " and it works great now.

#1877 4 years ago
Quoted from Trekkie1978:

Has anyone else installed the 1 5/8" hex spacer for the right ramp on pre/LE?
Just wondering if others had the same great results I had.

I'm going to try that as well

#1878 4 years ago
Quoted from Trekkie1978:

Has anyone else installed the 1 5/8" hex spacer for the right ramp on pre/LE?
Just wondering if others had the same great results I had.

Is the 1 5/8" spacer reducing the height of the right ramp? What's the height of the factory installed one? I get a few rejects out of right ramp, but it's a tough angle. Just wondering what the issue is...

#1879 4 years ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

No guts no glory.

No future buyers either...

#1880 4 years ago
Quoted from bhwolf:

Is the 1 5/8" spacer reducing the height of the right ramp? What's the height of the factory installed one? I get a few rejects out of right ramp, but it's a tough angle. Just wondering what the issue is...

Yes, it reduces the height of the ramp and makes the shot more consistent. I believe the stock one is 2 inches.

#1881 4 years ago

This is something new that happened tonight. I'm running code 1.11 In the middle of a game tonight, my left flipper went almost completely dead. This is when I was in the 3rd mode on the left ramp (I forgot the mode name). I turned the machine off and turned it back on, that seemed to fix the problem.

Has anyone else experienced this?

#1882 4 years ago
Quoted from golfingdad1:

I couldn't find a spacer , so I switched things around on the slingshot end and lowered the wire form exit by about 1/4 " and it works great now.

Pinball life has them.

#1883 4 years ago

I keep getting airballs off the left ramp anybody have the fix

#1884 4 years ago
Quoted from Delta9:

I keep getting airballs off the left ramp anybody have the fix

The metal flap that is riveted to the ramp appears to be thicker than that on the right ramp and for sure isn't the blue steel found on older machines.

I am running a small experiment where I added a small piece of Mylar, about 1.25" long, to serve as a transition between this metal flap and the playfield. It doesn't cover any of the inserts and is almost impossible to see (although not sure how long that will last).

I did this late last night it seems to have made a difference, either that or all of my ramp shots were dead on perfect

After doing this, it occurred to me that perhaps the front of the ramp could be drawn tighter to the playfield. Below the playfield are two nuts for the front of the ramp, which were tightened. However, I think the Mylar had a bigger effect.

-3
#1885 4 years ago
Quoted from NimblePin:

No future buyers either...

I'd be willing to place a big bet that it'd have virtually no effect on the future value of my machine. In fact, it might even increase its value.

#1886 4 years ago
Quoted from Trekkie1978:

Has anyone else installed the 1 5/8" hex spacer for the right ramp on pre/LE?
Just wondering if others had the same great results I had.

Could you please post of picture of this . I'm not able to visualize what you did?

#1887 4 years ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

I'd be willing to place a big bet that it'd have virtually no effect on the future value of my machine. In fact, it might even increase its value.

There's no way. A lot of us go overboard to keep the playfields in perfect condition. We are putting cliffys in the drain hole, just to stop wear on the one place where it's suppose to wear.

#1888 4 years ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

Could you please post of picture of this . I'm not able to visualize what you did?

The hex spacer that holds the ramp in place is 2". I put a 1 5/8" in there instead. There were too many times where I would hit the ball right and it would get rejected. With the ramp lower, it now makes it a smoother shot.

20 (resized).jpg

#1889 4 years ago
Quoted from Trekkie1978:

The hex spacer that holds the ramp in place is 2". I put a 1 5/8" in there instead. There were too many times where I would hit the ball right and it would get rejected. With the ramp lower, it now makes it a smoother shot.

Interesting, it looks like your ramp does not have the piece of metal on the right side that curves up. I wonder if the design was changed

1acc29594ace2bfea19e0a6310e6df041bf2d6d2.jpeg (resized).jpg

#1890 4 years ago

Is your ramp missing the decal!?!

#1891 4 years ago
Quoted from sparechange1974:

Interesting, it looks like your ramp does not have the piece of metal on the right side that curves up. I wonder if the design was changed

I think that picture was from a promo shot using a prototype game. The ramp plastic isn't clear.

#1892 4 years ago
Quoted from zucot:

I think that picture was from a promo shot using a prototype game. The ramp plastic isn't clear.

I think you're right, there's no Cliffy on subway eject or wireform/captive ball fix either.

#1893 4 years ago
Quoted from PinScott:

The metal flap that is riveted to the ramp appears to be thicker than that on the right ramp and for sure isn't the blue steel found on older machines.
I am running a small experiment where I added a small piece of Mylar, about 1.25" long, to serve as a transition between this metal flap and the playfield. It doesn't cover any of the inserts and is almost impossible to see (although not sure how long that will last).
I did this late last night it seems to have made a difference, either that or all of my ramp shots were dead on perfect
After doing this, it occurred to me that perhaps the front of the ramp could be drawn tighter to the playfield. Below the playfield are two nuts for the front of the ramp, which were tightened. However, I think the Mylar had a bigger effect.

Good info i tighten my ramp really tight tonight and pu a little peice of mylar down huge difference no more airballs

#1894 3 years ago
Quoted from Trekkie1978:

There's no way. A lot of us go overboard to keep the playfields in perfect condition. We are putting cliffys in the drain hole, just to stop wear on the one place where it's suppose to wear.

I won't be going overboard any time soon. Cliffys are a good idea for the anal 10% crowd, and do the job nicely.

Ain't no way the holes i put in my playfield will contribute to wear. But you're right - many guys go way overboard to preserve their game. Here's a thought: Buy two machines, put one in mothballs never to see the light of day. Then play the hell out of the other one. You will seriously enjoy playing the game, and all the while, the mothballed game will gain equity. Well, we all know they don't actually gain equity. If you can break even after 15 years with a NIB machine, you're doing better than 99% of us.

I play my games pretty much normally, however, I take the tilt bob off, and use nylon glides for feet, so I get pretty rough with them. But in the end, they survive beautifully. Still they are there to play and enjoy. And if I need to "modify" it to enjoy it more, so be it. When I decide to sell any of them, I'll likely get top dollar for them regardless of what I do to make them more playable because I keep 'em nice.

None of us are in this home game scene to profit. The value you get from your game is from playing and enjoying it. And the routed, worn out game owners don't care; they're the ones who will make out in the long run.

#1895 3 years ago
Quoted from exflexer:

In the end I have fixed the sensitivity issue by moving the braided wire from the side to the middle. See the before and after.

Curious...it was 7 months ago that this fix for slimer sensitivity...Is this still the recommended fix? I had to do quite a bit of adjusting on my Slimer to make sure he doesn't drag his butt. Basically only time he registers is with a firm hit with him to the right of the left ramp.

#1896 3 years ago
Quoted from sparechange1974:

Interesting, it looks like your ramp does not have the piece of metal on the right side that curves up. I wonder if the design was changed

That was a stock photo I took off of pinball news.

#1897 3 years ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

I won't be going overboard any time soon. Cliffys are a good idea for the anal 10% crowd, and do the job nicely.
Ain't no way the holes i put in my playfield will contribute to wear. But you're right - many guys go way overboard to preserve their game. Here's a thought: Buy two machines, put one in mothballs never to see the light of day. Then play the hell out of the other one. You will seriously enjoy playing the game, and all the while, the mothballed game will gain equity. Well, we all know they don't actually gain equity. If you can break even after 15 years with a NIB machine, you're doing better than 99% of us.
I play my games pretty much normally, however, I take the tilt bob off, and use nylon glides for feet, so I get pretty rough with them. But in the end, they survive beautifully. Still they are there to play and enjoy. And if I need to "modify" it to enjoy it more, so be it. When I decide to sell any of them, I'll likely get top dollar for them regardless of what I do to make them more playable because I keep 'em nice.
None of us are in this home game scene to profit. The value you get from your game is from playing and enjoying it. And the routed, worn out game owners don't care; they're the ones who will make out in the long run.

I really agree with you here. Even though I can be an anal nut bag about stuff (I put in lollipop rails because people's dirty hands marking up my artwork bothered me) but I do try to make sure I enjoy playing the games. This game isn't an investment for me. I have a 401k like a normal responsible person. Resale value isn't as important as actually enjoying my game.

I wouldn't drill my playfield like you did - but I admire how you made your game more fun for you. Screw everyone else.

I do laugh at the fact that some people who are willing to give you a hard time about what you did are the same people who put every tacky crappy light bulb mod on their machines they can think of ... not realizing that we all do whatever makes us happy and that's a good thing.

#1898 3 years ago

I'm well informed on CLiffy's, Slimer butt rubs, and air ball blockers (Thanks everyone!) All I need now is my GB, May order.

#1899 3 years ago
Quoted from wtatumjr:

I'm well informed on CLiffy's, Slimer butt rubs, and air ball blockers (Thanks everyone!) All I need now is my GB, May order.

Hang Tough! I got mine last week after ordering in April.

#1900 3 years ago
Quoted from ExtremePinball:

You would raise the playfield, locate the springs, unhook the bottom of the spring and re-attach with about 10 spring coils hanging below the attachment hook.

I did this last night and also adjusted the targets to be as flush as possible(they are flush in the front but down maybe a 1/32+ in the back)
My first game and I still get bricks! Any thoughts
And is anyone else's targets uneven on the top?

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