Ghostbuster Issue Thread


By exflexer

1 year ago


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There are 3660 posts in topic. You are on page 35 of 74.
#1701 1 year ago

Has anybody had a problem with the ball hitting the wire gate bracket at the top of the right orbit just before it enters the top lanes.
On certain hard shots the ball will come back down the orbit , or bounce up into the shooter lane and roll down to the plunger on a shot that should very smooth and fast.
I can definitely hear it hitting that bracket .

#1702 1 year ago

I have seen so many air balls in play that the inside is starting to look like a popcorn machine in action. Bouncing all over the library, bouncing up in the air and slamming into the outlanes and so on.

I am thinking the flippers are just too powerful. Supposedly, it'll calm down with use, but for me it seems to be getting worse.

Gotta give it time I guess.

#1703 1 year ago

Air balls....
With the airball protector on from the first game I have had several " balls" hit the 2x left stand up target fly OVER the crossover ramp and right slingshot and land right in the shooter lane all without hitting the glass.

Art @oldpinballguy are you reading this.
The airball protector needs to be extended out in front of that 2x target a bit. I think a little radial curve from front center to left at the tobin scoop would be all it needs , otherwise it does control alot of the balls off the 3x target.

#1704 1 year ago

Has anyone looked at the root cause of the air balls? Is there something different about the standup targets? Let's look at Tron for instance. It has similar targets at the ramps and I don't get air balls off those? Has Stern changed the standups? Guess I'll look into it when I get my machine. I just don't like adding a protector if the root cause can be resolved.

#1705 1 year ago

Root cause= stand ups

Solution= Add thick foam padding behind the standup. Remove current padding. As a bonus if you take the target out and use pliers, you can add a slight bend to the top part. So when the ball hits the target, the top of the target stays out more, adding downward force to the ball instead of making it a ramp. Cuts down airballs about 85%.

#1706 1 year ago

Sounds logical. Are these standups different from earlier Stern games? Padding different?

#1707 1 year ago

today, in our 2 big houres of live streaming, we've got 3 times the left flipper power off bug...
never got this before today

#1708 1 year ago
Quoted from yfz450:

Sounds logical. Are these standups different from earlier Stern games? Padding different?

I think they are the same but I think they were bent back a little in ratio to the angle that screws it into the playfield. giving it about a 45 degree pitch when the target is leaning back from a hit. Which makes it airborne.

#1709 1 year ago

I'm running version 1.11 of the LE/Premium code, is anyone else seeing the Light Negative Reinforcement when collecting 40 ghosts not activating? Also, does Stern have a bug tracker?

#1710 1 year ago

Thanks Neo, sounds easy enough.

#1711 1 year ago

Update on my right ramp. I removed the hex spacer that was installed in the game. I installed a 1 5/8" hex spacer and my right ramp works perfectly now. No more shots that roll back down.

On a side note regarding the mylar to the flash lamp. My ghostbusters was LE was built in August and the mylar is already installed on the flash lamp.

#1712 1 year ago

Quick question, when my kid plays he likes the double flipper technique (he's four). Sometimes the lighting by the slings goes out like a short or something when he does this. It happens on both sides all at once. I can occasionally reproduce it but not easily. I reseated the bulbs under the sling covers and checked under the playfield but everything looks good. Any guesses anyone?

I may try to make a video.. I'm hoping I can just not worry as it doesn't last more than a split second and is hard to make happen. just want to avoid any permanent issues that this could be a symptom of.

Thanks

#1713 1 year ago
Quoted from Trekkie1978:

Update on my right ramp. I removed the hex spacer that was installed in the game. I installed a 1 5/8" hex spacer and my right ramp works perfectly now. No more shots that roll back down.
On a side note regarding the mylar to the flash lamp. My ghostbusters was LE was built in August and the mylar is already installed on the flash lamp.

Thank you Trekkie ,
I needed to know the length of that hex spacer for replacement.
So nobody else has had issues with the ball hitting the right orbit wire gate bracket ? Fixes or suggestions?

#1714 1 year ago

So the big question ..... again. Should I update code Ti 1.11 or stick with 1.05. Seems odd that the factory just shipped the game and that's what's they shipped with. Build date 11/10

#1715 1 year ago
Quoted from hoby1:

So the big question ..... again. Should I update code Ti 1.11 or stick with 1.05. Seems odd that the factory just shipped the game and that's what's they shipped with. Build date 11/10

Im staying put at 1.05 for now .

#1716 1 year ago

Hey everyone,
I put together this simple slideshow-video to help new owners install the Ghostbusters cliffy shooter lane protector (bottom-right).
The video tries to hit the important points such as clamping and alignment. I hope this it helpful to new users.

» YouTube video

#1717 1 year ago
Quoted from golfingdad1:

Im staying put at 1.05 for now .

I'm standing here with 1.11 on a flash drive undecided if I should leap from 1.05 to 1.11. I would like to update but it sounds like most are not happy with the updates.

#1718 1 year ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

I'm standing here with 1.11 on a flash drive undecided if I should leap from 1.05 to 1.11. I would like to update but it sounds like most are not happy with the updates.

You can always switch back, just not the High Scores

#1719 1 year ago

So the guy at Ace Hardware just stared at me when I ask for 1 5/8" hex spacer.

Any one know where I could get one ?

#1720 1 year ago
Quoted from golfingdad1:

So the guy at Ace Hardware just stared at me when I ask for 1 5/8" hex spacer.
Any one know where I could get one ?

What spacer are you changing? Pic?

#1721 1 year ago

Pinball life.

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=358

The only stores I know of that would have them in stock would be Fastenal or Grainger. Maybe an electronics store.

#1722 1 year ago

Just wanted to post a follow up to my subway woes. Despite trying the tape and fiddling with the junction of the wire ramp and plastic subway, I was still getting a LOT of balls not making it out. Some not moving that fast, either. When looking more closely at the way the wire ramp clamps to the plastic subway, I realized the plastic was pushing the outer wire guide so the ball wouldn't rest on the two rails like it should.

This is difficult to explain, so threw this together to illustrate. The image (crude as it is) is a cross section of where the plastic subway is pushing the wire rail in, causing the ball to derail. Using a magnet holding a ball while the playfield was up, I could see the ball wasn't able to contact the lower right rail. The problem is, on my machine, I couldn't seem to shim it quite enough, so put a bit of a spacer on the metal clamp (on the outside of the plastic) so the rail is no longer being pushed in by the plastic subway.

If you're not getting subway exits, check it out with a ball on a magnet so you can see what is going on. Once I shimmed it just slightly, so far, 100% success, no tape. I'm guessing there are enough manufacturing tolerances so each machine might be a bit different.

gbsub (resized).png

#1723 1 year ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

Maybe Little Shop of games can chime in here. In the photo, you will notice this wont work from the Premium LE since the ball drop looks like it will hit the protector. (unless this is an optical illusion), but since the bigger one offers both options, it only makes sense that there's a need for both.

I have these installed and haven't had any issues.

The air ball preventer for the left ramp snapped at around 80 games. The plastic is brittle. I made a replacement out of plexi using the old one as a template. I think the plexi has enough flex to hold up.

#1724 1 year ago
Quoted from MadPole:

I have these installed and haven't had any issues.
The air ball preventer for the left ramp snapped at around 80 games. The plastic is brittle. I made a replacement out of plexi using the old one as a template. I think the plexi has enough flex to hold up.

The LSOG one snapped? I was thinking the PETG ones would be hard to break.

#1725 1 year ago

20161114_143851[1] (resized).jpg

#1726 1 year ago

We have debated between us, those making them, whether to go rigid, semi-rigid, or flexible.

I chose flexible, LSOG has semi Rigid.
The only way I could do rigid would sit on top of the metal frame support under the city, on top of the pops.
But ramps are assembled differently but too great a degree to do in mass.

The question was if a high speed steel ball is going to hit it, one should want the most amount of energy absorbed.
A Flexible piece will do this, and I went in that direction.

Semi Rigid is good too, and mounting cars or other objects on it will move/jiggle less, which is good.

But I went this way believing a straight down bounce back, repeatedly, after a few years, would divot in front of the target.

I could be wrong, this is a physics argument, so someone smarter, please chime in.

Now that my game is 4 months old, the divot concept has some merit. I added to removable mylar clear dots in front of the targets, where the ball hits, to protect factory mylar and playfield.

LSOG has recently changed their model, to help with the 2%-3% that have it not covering enough of the 2X.
Another method is to make an oval out of the mounting holes, to slide down a few mm.

GolfingDad added some foam, his assembly was off 3-4mm.....

#1727 1 year ago
Quoted from Mitch:

What spacer are you changing? Pic?

The one that supports the crossover ramp wire form .

#1728 1 year ago

got a couple of problems that I can't seem to fix. First the left scoop sometimes won't award the shot with extra ball or whatever, but it seems to know its in there and still kick it out? secondly I can't seem to find out how to fix my slimmer on my premium as it just registers without being hit, it never used to but now it's overly sensitive. I have made no changes to anything and have been running 1.10 for ages and these errors have only just surfaced. Any help appreciated I have checked the switch in the scoop and it appears to be ok, should I raise it up a bit higher maybe.

#1729 1 year ago
Quoted from mcfly:

got a couple of problems that I can't seem to fix. First the left scoop sometimes won't award the shot with extra ball or whatever, but it seems to know its in there and still kick it out? secondly I can't seem to find out how to fix my slimmer on my premium as it just registers without being hit, it never used to but now it's overly sensitive. I have made no changes to anything and have been running 1.10 for ages and these errors have only just surfaced. Any help appreciated I have checked the switch in the scoop and it appears to be ok, should I raise it up a bit higher maybe.

I had your slimer problem.
I re-adjusted the plates in slimer hanger and now he works great every time.
Loosen nuts, slide forward or back to get the steel-cable away from the edge-ring.
The idea is it cannot make contact while coming down.
Notes:
I have a Premium 1.05
(1.10 was supposed to suppress slimer hits while coming down)
(1.11 added a software adjustment for slimer)

#1730 1 year ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

I had your slimer problem.
I re-adjusted the plates in slimer hanger and now he works great every time.
Loosen nuts, slide forward or back to get the steel-cable away from the edge-ring.
The idea is it cannot make contact while coming down.
Notes:
I have a Premium 1.05
(1.10 was supposed to suppress slimer hits while coming down)
(1.11 added a software adjustment for slimer)

That's strange mine is adjusted tight against the front of the ring and come off the ring when you hit slimer and it works perfectly.

be44b7341dfbf20ce014d44e268a70d9aaa8a0c2 (resized).jpg

#1731 1 year ago

After hearing reports of better quality coming out of the factory, I have a NIB Pro arriving tomorrow/Wednesday from Cointaker. Pretty excited as I grew up with damn near every Ghostbuster toy imaginable and this will be my first pin!

I will report back if the Slimer wire is set properly, flash bulb issue is resolved, and if the drain switches are raised slightly more.

#1732 1 year ago
Quoted from Mitch:

That's strange mine is adjusted tight against the front of the ring and come off the ring when you hit slimer and it works perfectly.

Yes, This is how mine was too. You need to loosen the nuts and adjust.
I adjusted and tested mine loosening the set-screw and rotating slimer while the switch test is running.
Slimer should not register until he's been hit with a clean shot and should not register the switch when moving to the playfield.

#1733 1 year ago

Found a few small issues.
One , they have the wrong type of switch on my left ramp. And it's bad. Supposed to be a micro rollover and they have a light touch standard on. They are sending that and one other out

#1734 1 year ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

I had your slimer problem.
I re-adjusted the plates in slimer hanger and now he works great every time.
Loosen nuts, slide forward or back to get the steel-cable away from the edge-ring.
The idea is it cannot make contact while coming down.
Notes:
I have a Premium 1.05
(1.10 was supposed to suppress slimer hits while coming down)
(1.11 added a software adjustment for slimer)

Thanks I will try that. I also finally got around to putting green electrical taper over the two flashers under the lightning part when slimer gets hit and having it flash green is much better on the eyes and fits the theme.

#1735 1 year ago

I wanted my slings to be more sensitive...... from the factory the sling rubber is on the high tier making it have more throw to activate switch

Also when the ball would hit the rubber it would push it upward instead of straight back

Putting it on the lower worked fantastic and it at the regular height like most games

IMG_6559 (resized).JPG

#1736 1 year ago
Quoted from hoby1:

I wanted my slings to be more sensitive...... from the factory the sling rubber is on the high tier making it have more throw to activate switch
Also when the ball would hit the rubber it would push it upward instead of straight back
Putting it on the lower worked fantastic and it at the regular height like most games

Great tip thank you Sir
Edit : So I just switch the rubbers around as described above and man what a difference . Thanks again .

#1737 1 year ago

Does anyone else have a standard micro switch on their left ramp. According to the part # it's supposed to be a roller micro 180-5119-02. Like a trough switch. Looks like many got a standard switch.

#1738 1 year ago
Quoted from jorge5240:

There used to be a guy on here that something similar I would use for the shooter lane but he fell ill. Anyway please report back on your findings. I am interested.

Please see the video below -- "removable clear mylar/vinyl".
This product is designed to stick but can be easily removed
without damaging the surface and without leaving any residue or adhesive behind.

» YouTube video

#1739 1 year ago
Quoted from chucksmith:

Please see the video below -- "removable clear mylar/vinyl".
This product is designed to stick but can be easily removed
without damaging the surface and without leaving any residue or adhesive behind.
» YouTube video

So Chuck,
Where did you get that stuff ?

#1740 1 year ago

Thanks for sharing, Chuck!

Another great tool I use with this, and in shop jobs are Plastic Razor blades.
They help lift the Mylar for replacing.

#1741 1 year ago

OK this is weird. Went into tech alerts on my premium (1.11) and seeing 3 alerts:

-Check Switch 52, Left Ramp Enter
-Check Switch 92, Left Ramp 2
-Check Switch 93, Left Ramp 3

According to the manual, switch 52 is pop exit, which is working. The 'real' left ramp enter seems to be working, too. There's no switch 92 or 93 in the manual.

Any ideas?

#1743 1 year ago
Quoted from bhwolf:

OK this is weird. Went into tech alerts on my premium (1.11) and seeing 3 alerts:
-Check Switch 52, Left Ramp Enter
-Check Switch 92, Left Ramp 2
-Check Switch 93, Left Ramp 3
According to the manual, switch 52 is pop exit, which is working. The 'real' left ramp enter seems to be working, too. There's no switch 92 or 93 in the manual.
Any ideas?

I just posted on a different thread because I have those same alerts running 1.05 on a premium. Would love to know how to clear them!

-5
#1744 1 year ago

My first very functional and useful mod - just installed it tonight. I have been frustrated (as most of you) with the left and right drains, so I put together a modded outer drain rail piggyback piece. Fit nicely and it works absolutely great so far, so I think I got it just right. To do it, I needed to drill two holes on the playfield per side. Then I formed a stainless steel rail to match the factory rail size. Doing one at a time to test it.

My goal: Minimize the dreaded side drain. Not to eliminate it, but make it more difficult for the ball to drain as it does. So I built one for the left drain to test. Shown here, with the specific drill bit to make the rail fit tightly into the playfield:
ramp_with_drill_bit (resized).jpg

Positioning the new piggyback rail to see how it will fit into the machine:
positioning_new_ramp_modification (resized).jpg

Next, marked the location:
left_drain_hole_location (resized).jpg

Drill the first hole into the playfield (I guess I'm now committed):

And the second hole:
drill_second_hole (resized).jpg

Tap the piggyback rail firmly into the playfield:
rail_in_place (resized).jpg
rail_in_place2 (resized).jpg

Move the pin post to the forward hole:
move_post_to_forward_hole (resized).jpg

Clean up the playfield with a vacuum cleaner, and give it a shot. It works beautifully. I can still get a ball into the drain, but most of the time, if it's not a direct hit, it will bounce back. Out of ten potential hits, it drained twice. Before, it would have drained ten out of ten times....And, with the extra height, it has stopped a few air balls that would normally go right into the drain.

I will now make the right side identically to the left side. The machine is much more fun to play when the game ball lasts a bit longer.

100% happy with this mod.

drill_first_hole (resized).jpg

#1745 1 year ago

OMG...... Never seen anyone do that before.

#1746 1 year ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

My first very functional and useful mod - just installed it tonight. <snip>
100% happy with this mod.

Hats off to you for taking a drill to your playfield. I couldn't do it.

#1747 1 year ago
Quoted from hoby1:

Does anyone else have a standard micro switch on their left ramp. According to the part # it's supposed to be a roller micro 180-5119-02. Like a trough switch. Looks like many got a standard switch.

based on the manual or what support said?

I wouldn't trust the manual over everyone's build. All the ramp switches I've seen look like the typical blade microswitch
Like the one in this post - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ghostbuster-issue-thread/page/25#post-3319109 (from the awesome thread index )

#1748 1 year ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

My first very functional and useful mod - just installed it tonight. I have been frustrated (as most of you) with the left and right drains, so I put together a modded outer drain rail piggyback piece. Fit nicely and it works absolutely great so far, so I think I got it just right. To do it, I needed to drill two holes on the playfield per side. Then I formed a stainless steel rail to match the factory rail size. Doing one at a time to test it.
My goal: Minimize the dreaded side drain. Not to eliminate it, but make it more difficult for the ball to drain as it does.

[snip]

Clean up the playfield with a vacuum cleaner, and give it a shot. It works beautifully. I can still get a ball into the drain, but most of the time, if it's not a direct hit, it will bounce back. Out of ten potential hits, it drained twice. Before, it would have drained ten out of ten times....And, with the extra height, it has stopped a few air balls that would normally go right into the drain.
I will now make the right side identically to the left side. The machine is much more fun to play when the game ball lasts a bit longer.
100% happy with this mod.

You could have just stretched a couple of rubber bands between the rails and outposts, and probably 2 out of 10 balls would have skipped over them to drain, producing the same result. Great for increasing ball times, and cheap and reversible, too.

#1749 1 year ago
Quoted from bhwolf:

Hats off to you for taking a drill to your playfield. I couldn't do it.

I figure it is minimal. Worst case, put a post pin in the hole. You'd never know it wasn't supposed to be there.

But that rail does the trick. Nicely.

#1750 1 year ago

I just received a premium and have been plagued by airballs despite having a protector. Taking a cue from CaptainNeo, I adjusted the target angles by using .020 styrene shim stock. To do this, I simply loosened the two bracket screws and rested the shim on top of the screw threads and sandwiched between the bracket and the playfield. The shim width only need to be approximately 1/8", otherwise it will interfere with the adjacent insert. Airballs have been dramatically reduced.

I also noticed Slimer dragging butt. For this, I inserted .060 shim stock between the base (lowest point) of the large support bracket and the playfield. This was enough to lift Slimer and eliminate 95% of the butt drag without affecting ball contact.

Finally, to reduce cheap drains, I followed Delta9's recommendation. I used tape to mark off 3/16" on a nail punch and then very gently tapped the lane guide up to the 3/16" mark. Again, preliminary results look promising.

Tomorrow is a vacation day, so a portion of it will be spent "testing".

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