Hello.
I have wanted to build a custom Pinball for a while. But have found reasons to not move forward. Within the last few months a few things happened that got me going. Started with some positive encouragement from @thenotrashcougar. Then GITS live action movie release, causing me to rewatch all the dvds. And lastly a real good deal on a Aerosmith lower cabinet.
I also feel the Hardware and software avalible is in a position where it’s solid and have a community big enough to keep me going.

I have been working on this for a couple months. And decided it’s time for a pinside thread.

Thanks and stay tuned for more.

FortyTwo

Theme selection;
I was for the longest time going with Cowboy Bebop. But got hoked into GITS since and changed my mind. It’s a dream theme for a few reasons. It’s a futuristic world that’s also gritty and mechanical. It’s has a big enough following to have some toys etc avalible but not big enough to get a actual production game built. I would hate to get overshadowed by stern.

This is a build for myself. No plans on production or getting a license. It’s a not for sale personal project. I am using P3-Roc hardware and skeleton games framework.
Enjoy.

My intro video for the project.

Thanks. Currently not too much of it is theme related. But I’ll get there.

The most recent videos posted. Making good progress on the white wood.

Thanks man. Good to see I’m holding my own to a “professional”. Lol.

I made some progress. Not enough for an update video. But here’s a gameplay link.

The right orbit is a satisfying shot and the left mini orbit works. Adding a spinner there soon.

Added some plastic skinny posts to simulate ramp and lane openings. So far it’s shooting real nice. So nice with some minor changes I don’t think the upper flipper will be required.
Even considering a total revamp of the proposed upper playfeild. May eliminate it just for some fun ramp action. Don’t know.

Making progress on the first whitewood layout. Need to work on ramps next. Some changes from the original plan. But shooting Good.
FortyTwo

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Have the left ramp/s built. Could look nicer but happy it shooting real good. Both directions are easily makeable. A Lower shot is loop able too. I got 4 ramp loops in a row when testing.

Started working on a ball lock mock-up and have to stop to wait for glue. I can’t build the rift ramp until this is installed. Need to make sure I can feed it.

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I decided to add standups instead of black posts. 2501 which will start a puppeteer hurry up. Chase the 2501 target lights and catch the shot then depending on what one is stopped you have to make a second shot. Most likely a ramp.

It does what a ramp normally does on a stern game. Return the ball to the flipper. So I essitantly have two ramp shots that are loopable.
Switches code and time will tell.

Thanks all.
I am thinking of calling the left side the section 9 “headquarters” ramp. And the lower will be tachkoma ramp. Since they are housed more in a garage like facility.

rotordave I would say stern. JJP has at least a year before the next game launch. Spooky is busy with TNA and the next game I beleive is designed already. Sterns only creative designer is in legal trouble. So. I say sterns second game from next year. Lol.

BorgDog I see what your getting at. Could even be a standup like pinbot with a hurry-up shot. Would be interesting to implement if I need additional shots. I would have to consider the ball will be moving down the ramp too. So a eddy sensor might get prematurely activated too much. For complicated ness I do plan on adding a bunch to the right upper and mid. So stay tuned.

Ha.
But it’s almost like a bounce back. I do have a pbl through but before I can use it I need another sw-16 board and auto launcher and apron.
Thanks.

Ok. I am really going to try for a update video this weekend. Hope to give a discription if the playfeild layout and a base idea of rules.
FortyTwo.

Found this online and printed it on paper. I think I got my art for the head!

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Did some work this weekend on the upper PF area. And ramp. Also recorded some video for an update. Of course this was post recording.
The entire upper PF is going to be 1/2 inch clear plexi. And so will the ball lock behind it.

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Thanks. Project is really in the earily stages. But turning out to be a fun flipping game. I may be able to get the upper flipper figured out tonight.

Very cool. What's your theme? If you have a thread going I'd love to check it out. I waited until I got some steam before starting a thread.

The flipper is officially hooked up. Had it flipping last night. I definitely need to adjust the posts on the upper PF. Thinking of some standups on the left. And when done I’m going to cut more of the playfeild off. Make it as small as it needs to be.

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Thanks. I find the community both helps keep me motivated and helps when I’m in a pickle.
Yes I’m on there practically same name and avatar.
FortyTwo-GITS

Thanks. Making good progress at the moment.
Tonight I got the flippers all flipping correctly. And added some posts to the upper PF. I can now hit both ball lock holes. The right is a solid backhand. But need to try it with a thinner face. And I definitely will be cutting down the upper to exactly what’s required. Might put some standups if I can deem them an actual skill shot.
FortyTwo

In progress of ripping a bunch apart to add more.
Made some progress on the upper playfeild. Added a shot that will be timed to complete “thermo optic camouflage”. Will either give you higher playfeild scoring for a set time or move you a shot further in a given mode. This shot may have a gate to lock it.

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Made some good progress the last couple days. I now have a through and pop bumper. Added a second sw-16 board and added four standups. I have a bunch of under playfeild switches to still add and wire in. But getting close to having something to code with. Not concerned with inserts and lights at this time.

Main parts I still need to get are;
Auto launcher with switch
Another sw-16

Main fabrication I still need;
Connect the upper playfeild hole
Switches on everything. Lanes ramps etc.
Eventually add blue bumper to left lane and spinner lane.
Tweak shots.

It’s time to stop working on this for a couple weeks and prep for a upcoming party.
Stay tuned.
And thanks for following.
Happy holidays
FortyTwo

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The ramp opening is 2 3/8. In perspective All of taxis ramp shots are 2 - 2 1/2. It’s rise is 1/2 inch shorter than GB premium and run is 1 inch longer. So no power issues. And as far as the angle looks are deceiving. Originally the base metal went one way but the walls are opened up now. I squared it up to the left flipper and is a makeable shot. But like Aerosmith. You have to line it up.

I’m open to you swinging by sometime and flipping on it. More opinions the better.

Thanks Jeremy. Vid looks good. Thanks for editing out the dead air. No problem on the timing. I have made progress since but will have a few weeks of no productivity. I’ll make a catch-up after the New Years.

Thanks. Pointer equals random peice of wood. Works better than usin my hand and obstructing the shot.
I would definitely quit my current job to design or program professionally. By that’s more of a pipe dream. Right now focusing on my project and try to make the best game for me.

New video of gameplay. I now have the scoops auto ejecting the drop target resets. And through Support. So now it’s a very basic game.

Definitely fun to shoot. I am hoping when it's made of thinker steel better connected. Less energy gets wasted and the ramp action is a bit faster.

To the left of the left scoop I have two stand ups. GITS fans. Anything I can relate these to that's a common theme in the shows. I already have 2501 targets. A section 9 shot left ramp upper. A tachoma shot left ramp lower. No name for the spinner or right loop or scoop. But for programming naming the stand ups will assist. Rather than calling it left left target.

Nice ones. Did add a thermo optic camouflage shot on the upper pf. It's a hard and timed shot so you will have to be something like a ranger to be able to get it. It will either advance the current mode. Or give you timed 2x playfeild scoring if your not in a mode.

I haven't thought too much on toys. I do want a tachikoma on top of the left ramp. I like the idea of a pistol. But I want to avoid the light saber on swep1 effect. I just sold some more parts so... Thinking of ordering the auto launch assembly while I play with code.

Haven’t done too much physical to the game. Been working on the framework programming wise. But I did make a gate for my shooting lane. And started labeling things.
Lookin for suggestions for labeling. Reoccurring themes that can be used in multiple modes. I have my main shots with red arrows. Those will Be rgb inserts. In fact most inserts will Be rgb I think. I think I can come up with something more cannon than “mystery” also.

What you can’t read. The lanes are S A C. (Not sold on this) and left lower ramp entrance is “think tank”. Left scoop small round insert will Be mode ready. Different color or stand alone mode vs complex mode.

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Some screen shots and images from the net and I have something. I now also have some more complete code to operate the drop targets and scoops. But not enough switches or lights to actually program for real. I really want to get an official Whitewood cut. But don’t have any cad skills at the moment.

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I have proven to myself I can program and build this. Time to start knocking off some unfinished things and make a more permanent project. I took the back box off and added rails for glass will paint before reassembling. I also ripped the pc apart in hope to get it mounted in the cab. I’m also going to get he correct ps ordered.

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I decided since the head is off to get the cabinet all wired up properly. Current goal. Get pc mounted in the cabinet. Hence it’s stripped down. Get official 48 volt power supply and mount. With fuses. Mount power switch in traditional location. Fused. And pc style power jack on the back of lower cabinet.
Unfortunately at this time I am going to have to pass on the cabinet power filter board from Multimorphic Next shopping spree.
I’m also waiting until my ps is setup and I get my TNA to move too much further. I can reasses funds and place a single big order.

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The back box is back and painting has started. It’s all primed and I got the first coat on the inside. I also got the power switch installed. Nothing too exciting but I will be happy to no longer have bare wood showing on the cabinet.
I think once everything is back together and working again I’ll shoot another video.
Stay tuned.

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Ha ha. I keep filling the topic. Got first couple coats of black. Still need to paint detail the front edge tonight and give the sides one more coat.

But you get the idea of how the grey will pop.

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Game is in one peice. And still works. Also have better ac wiring with a cord and actual switch. Next will be work on cabinet art and speakers. Which thebamp and parts are on order.

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Eric_S good questions.
The reason I have it twisted was to make room. Now for the motor controll and stop. Servo city makes a servo Support and also sells a 3 rotation servo.
For detection switches all three holes will be equal spaced with room for a playfeild rollover behind each holes stop position. And lastly controll. The p3-roc has interface for i2c bus and I have a bus servo controller I picked up for $10.

https://www.servocity.com/637110

My next step is to experiment with the controller and a spare servo until I verify it’s working. I then want to replace the playfeild with one that has all the switch slots. And maybe a few inserts. This will be my build final ramps and mechs on. Also position me for programming.

Lastly today I will be making and installing the subway. Hope to add some basic code to score for the other standups. And start on a skill shot mode.
You know something Aerosmith Pro still doesn’t have.

Thanks. I hope to work the kinks out and make it a real fun game.

I also was not super productive last night. Ended up watching some DeadFlip

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I pretty sure that’s you playing at the time I took the pic. Thanks for you shout out!

I got the subway all built and tested. I decided to go with a mechanical switch rather than a opto. It’s what I have. I can always change it later if I have issues.
Didn’t get any code last night. Had a dog emergency we had to tend to.

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It’s starting to look like a real Pinball. Speakers and amp arrived and installed. Printed my first draft backglass. I will see if I can get some speaker grills laser cut. The final glass will be 1/4 inch material. 1/8 is a bit floppy with the heavy speakers in it.

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He’s doing much better today. He had a seizure again. whitch is scary for all involved. We gave him some extra meds and monitored. Thankfully he didn’t have a second chain seizure.
Thanks LTG.

I had a lot more of this in my original plan. But some of it got lost. Still I want to have cut out areas in the backglass showing the boards and wires. The p3 roc has all blue LEDs and a rotating Pattern. Maybe I can place a switch board on top. Hmmm...

Wow small world. My dog speedster is a greyhound. Actually my first endeavor in custom pinball is a retheme into greyhounds the Race Home. Really hard to photograph. I will make a pinball mayhem video of it someday.

Yes it’s running to the right scoop. Originally i was going to have a drop target there. But the subway-scoop is more fun.

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Oops. Broke a drop target last night. May want to look into something stronger. Maybe an assembly with memory.

What have others found to be strong drops?

I did get some code on the subway last night. Registers correctly.

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That’s always a backup plan. To change it out would no affect the playfeild cut. Or the programming that much. For now I’m going to see about stronger targets because i like the idea of thebdrops. I might also lower the pop power. These targets are 35 years old too.

That would be sweet. But I feel the Gottlieb say 1 design is weak. Plus the pops hitting it hard. And so is the ball from the flipper bashing the side.

More minor progress. Changed the posts up to add double bands and Support posts. I hope this helps with the ball jumping over. I also wired in and programmed the spinner for Tallon who demanded I even have a spinner.

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Thanks.
I am working hard to do just that. I really want to be on playfeild 2 by then with all switches and a few lights. But we will see. Currently it does have enough code to be a playable game. I would need more t screws and plastics to avoid stuck balls.

I do want to check with goatdan on minimum requirements and if there will be a homebrew area.

My MGC goals
Playfeild 2
Some working lights.
GI - is a must it could be dark in there.
All working switches (boards)
Complete cabinet art
Plastics -no art
No stuck balls
Maybe a function ball lock. (May redesign this to go a different direction.

Next I need to work on a couple arcade projects to fund the next big buy.

Thanks kettchxxii I did just reset the scores. But you blew away my high score from before. That was from this points schedule. I removed the 5000 Point shots from the sample code. “Get out” is also gone. My buddies will be over today busting this up.

TheNoTrashCougar I am going to try. Thanks.

You should play it now. I have the spinner 20 points a spin. A good shot will get 300 or more points.

I knew you would say classic stern. I’ll keep an eye out but going to try new targets first.

Just finished a few non GITS projects so time to add some more stuff.
Playfeild is out and it’s getting ramp switches. I think. A repair is getting picked up next week. So I plan on making a huge order. Auto launcher, more switch boards, and a single board pc.
In the mean time. I get to experiment with ramp switches and skill shot programming.

I’ll have some game play footage up tomorrow as well.

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Got all three ramp switches installed and wired. But I did use up my last three switch inputs. I definitely will be ordering two more sw-16 boards on my next order.

Now let’s see if I can get some code behind the ramps.

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A week ago PM_Jeremy help me film a updated video. It just went live this morning. We have a special guest appearance in this one.

Keep in mind my rules and scoring is basically me getting used to the programming and making the shots interesting for testing the layout.

Thanks
Share and enjoy!

Thanks.
The ramp metal is thinner gauge steel. Might be 22 ga. It’s painted white on one side because it was removed from my fridge when I installed stainless panels.
I have a drill mounted metal cutter that made quick cuts of the metal. Malco tshd turbo sheer. This allowed me to skip the foamcore stage since I’m comfortable working with steel and have he material for free.
My next playfeild willnuse here takps but be the platform I build final ramps on out of thicker stainless.
Ed

Got both ramps working. The right one is my current hurryup shot for 2501 and the left is going to be a simple loop. Each loop each way will be worth more.

For now.

I don’t want to get too deep until I have all the switches and lights. Do real modes etc. still learning the coding.

Ha. I’m sure as John Cleese said that nothing is original anymore. But it was an fresh idea in my head. And fun to shoot. Going to give some looping logic tonight to make he shot more fun.

Did some quick ramp logic tonight. The right ramp is now a hurry up shot after 2501 is completed. The left ramp looping is multiplied by number of loops twice. Aka 100 * total loops either direction * loops made that direction. Nothing too spectaticular. Just a good payoff to a fun shot.

Thanks. I agree it becoming a spooky game would be cool. Even just in layout. The “big show” would be be biggest compliment, With my name as a production designer. But I’m just trying to make the game as fun as I can. And challenging for my friends that are better than I.

Been playing with fonts and colors. My plan is to rip apart and build a functional ball lock this weekend. I have some cool ideas but not going with what’s in there now. The game shoots pretty fast and I don’t want to slow it down too much.

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Got the left wireform completed. I still want to add a switch but otherwise done. Still working on the right before I add the additional wires to it. Will also need to make an entrance scoop and more parts below. I hope it shoots right! Want to get this figured soon to get whatever switches I need on my next weeks Pinball life order.

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Thanks. The first welded ring looks crappy. And I made a few mistakes in forming. But hey both now work!!! The spiral needs to be completed. But I wanted to prove the shape was shootable first. Because my upper playfeild isn’t aligned correctly the flipper is weak. Though I still complete the loop twice in my testing.

Added some sdandups. Needs some tweaking done for the day. Productive weekend.

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Not a problem.
My target bank is out of a Gottlieb torch system 1. I will measure the playfeild it came out of tonight for you. Don’t know if stern ss are longer or not.

It’s a fun shot. But definitely something that game design has to start with. I’m also a fan of the open center in a game and not closing down the top half of the game. So unlikely I’ll be adding that to this one. I have a couple more minor mechs to add and it’s tweaking shots time.
Plus RustyLizard doesn’t need any encouraging.

For those of you that don’t know the theme. Ghost is referring to ones soul. The shell is a cyborg body that some have chosen to have their brain planted in. But he real mind problem is when a shell appears to have developed a ghost and have independent complex though. So a ghost in an empty shell.

Switched out a few targets to look at color and test durability. These are 3d printed by a friend in petg. I like the blue because it’s translucent. Once there’s lights behind it it will look cool.

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Well. I do beleive the live action was a work of art and I enjoyed it celebrating SAC and the original story line. Even with a throwout to arise. I am going to focus my art on SAC. But there will be a scar jo on the screen here or there. Possibile a mode dedicated to the new movie.

Slow progress but my lock spiral ramp is taking shape. Tomorrow I plan on working on the diverter. This shot is going to be hard. And four ball multiball might be impossible to get. Like MB on black hole.

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I am using 9 gauge and 12 gauge galvinoized wire. I got it from my hardware store (yes real hardware store). It’s in bulk. The smaller stuff is great for the rings and support. But I wanted Beefer wires for the transport. Plus it adds stiffness to the entire project. I followed Pinballmakers.com tobget started and bend the rings. With metal you find something the right diameter and you bend around it. And tweak for an hour plus by hand with work globes on. Avoid music wire that thick. Much harder to bend.

Thanks. I should have mentioned the warnings. I am welding in a well ventilated area. Not the area pictured. The gas is poison. So yes extra care needs to be taken.

Got the ball lock basically built. May need some tweaking and when I confirm it physically works I’ll add ball dectection. Ran into some mounting issues so I will tackle getting it mounted tomorrow.

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Here’s a quick video of ball release while on the bench.
Gentleman behold!

Thanks for helping received the prototypes today. Will be mounted this weekend.

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Made good progress today. Got my Pinball life order yesterday. I even have service rails now. I have my ramp mounted and working on the switches. This will really tie into eh theme well. Tomorrow I hope to be able to button this up and maybe playteat the upper playfeild.

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Finalized the upper today. I was able to make all the shots and it does seem like multiball will be possible. I also added a controll gate to the right orbit and an auto launcher. Nothing new is wired in yet. Need to tear it all apart again and add switches / optos to the ball lock and exit wireform.
At this time I beleive my design is basically done. I need playfeild switches, inserts and to tweak the spinner lane shape.

The ball lock is all assembled. Has switches and optos. The optos will get tested for alignment before install tonight. I have decided to not rush reassembly at this time. I am going to work on alot of small things required for a successful MGC.

GI, flashers, switch wiring, install of new boards, install of orbit and lane switches and t Nutting the slingshots.

At this time I have made a commitment to MGC to bring it on display. If anyone else is bringing a custom game let me know. If there’s enough of us that can give us an area to be.

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Thanks

Currently that’s the plan. As long as I can make it solid enough I will. The next couple weeks will see how the standard stuff goes.

Here’s the lock tested and looked for install.
The plan with the exposed wiring up above it to loom it and make it part of he look of thebgame.

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Been working on the upper two thirds of the playfeild.
Got all the white posts removed. New, rubber. Adjusted some posts. Installed flasher sockets. Drilled holes for GI.

Tomorrow I will continue this on the lower third. Cut switch slots. And adjust the auto launcher.

If all goes well I’ll be reassembling and wiring this weekend. I don’t think I’ll get it all together since I still have cabinet rewiring to do too.

Thanks for following along.
FortyTwo.

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More progress. The rest of the GI holes drilled. All the switch slots cut. Some more poor than others. I also added t nuts to the sling shot end posts.

I still want to add backboard Support brackets and a new sling shot guide wall. Then it’s all installing switches sockets and wiring. I’m picking up the some parts PM_Jeremy ordered for me tomorrow to aid in reassembly.

I also plan on making plastics before I reassemble.

Thanks for watching. And if you haven’t guessed I’m using his as my to do list. Ha.

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Thanks. The switch slots were hand cut with a dremmel and a spiral bit. I practiced a few times. And still didn’t do the greatest job. The good news is it will do for now.

Started replacing ball guides with stainless. I also fixed the spinner shot to hopefully return through the orbit.

I plan on using the controll gate to make a right orbit shot return through the lanes. Then I can open it once 2x is achieved.

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Crap. You saw it. My first light in the game.

More progress replaced all the ball guides I have metal and spades for. Added the backboard supports also.

Tomorrow make and install the plastics until I run out of t post screws. Reassemble what I can. Start installing switches and lamp sockets.

I’m excited to see how it shoots with the adjusted guides and stronger metal.

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I’m moving from 22 ga sheetmetal to 18 ga stainless. The nice part I was able to adjust a couple to make the shots smoother.

Ha. Nice catch. Since my “subway tunnel” addition on the back board. It no longer fits my rotisserie. So it’s standing on end on the work bench. Adding the service rails make this easy.

Well this cold-sore throat thing is still kicking my ass. So I’m calling it for the day. I was able to install some more parts. Properly adjusted. And make cardboard templates for all my plastics. I think I’m going to go with smaller domes. No rush for an order so I figure I will hold off on a parts order.

Eventually I want to replace the flasher with 3d printed figures. A tacikoma in the back. A laughing man logo on the left and maybe ceo Jameson on the right.

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This summer I plan on making a new rotisserie. This will have hookups like the professional models onto the stern style playfeild pivots.

Thanks this is the second run at this cold.

Sadly not much progress. This cold still got me. Took the day off and did catch up on a rewatch of stand alone complex second gig. Deep. Hope to start lamp and switch install tomorrow. I did get the subway opto all mounted.

I got all the switches mounted and did a triple count. I have 44 playfeild mounted switches. One I could eliminate but not two. Sadly. Before I start wiring them up I want to get the lamp sockets mounted. I ran into a issue where the new ones I have are the wrong height. So it looks like I’ll be using some ones harvested from a em wire harness. I’ll solder the bases before install. Tomorrow’s goal is to get the GI all done. Hope I have a 12v relay.

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I got all the GI bulbs mounted. Now it’s cleaning up my wiring mess and hooking everything up. The switch wiring is a mess because I started with one board and now I’m up to 4. Im going to rip it all out and begin over. I spreadsheeted my layout to make sense of where things are hooked up.

Next few steps
Rewire playfeild.
Make andninstall plastics.
Assemble top side.
Rewire cabinet for switch board by coin door.

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I started with just hooking stuff up. I didn’t have all the boards and switches and coils. I just wanted it to work. But I like to think things through and make sense. So this next version of wiring will be pain detailed. And will get redone at least two more times. Next playfeild will have inserts. And 84 led controlls. So more of a mess.

A huge shoutout to toyotaboy for helping me design and print the board mount towers. Great idea with the cable management built in. I drilled holes in the prototypes you printed. Should allow me to make it nice and clean. There’s a ton more wiring to come. I would like to make a board extender to add a slightly longer board to the switch tower set.

I have a need to mount both of these on the same tower set. The holes are 11/16 apart. I’m hope when I finally get my 3d printer I can print a spreader. To lengthen the shorter board.

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Basically what I was thinking. Could you add bump outs for screws on the left side. And is there a way to drop the left side back to make the boards parallel? Of not a slight angle won’t hurt. Or I could shave the bumps off the post easily.
Ed

toyotaboy
Close. If you move the board bumps to thebther side then we have a winner. That way the tails from components won’t get squished. I actually realized I could make these outnof metal tabs for now. But printed would look better for the long term.

MarkInc they are. The picture is bad since I need to deconstruct the switch wiring. I will do that tonight and finalize the board placement. I’ll post a new picture.

I was able to accomplish what I waned with some scrap al sheetmetal and plastic insulator.
I will carry on with removal of all switch wiring.

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Wiring / Rewiring is going slow. But I’m taking my time to get a nice neat job. I am chipping off the hard stuff first. I drew about where all my insertsbwill be on the bottom. Made my opto power board and GI relay board. Mounted all the boards and started wiring opto power. I plan on layering starting with opto power. Then GI. I will run selonod and source power on the top of the towers. Led and opto power will be below. Switch will be he middle layer.

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openpinballproj
Thanks for the advice. I understand the theory of a emp pulse can cause data issues. My plan is to run the serial cables and switch wires all at playfeild level. And to run the power supply to boards and selonoid wiring at the top of the towers. I’m thinking 3.5 inch separation should be plenty. Also the 18 ga wire will be stiffer. So running it higher will make it easier.
Good ol network wiring plenum rules.

bigduke6
That’s awesome. My plans are standard size 20.25 by 45. So should fit! I have been working with toyotaboy to make a digital file / model of the playfeild. This summer after MGC things will slow down. I want to get a playfeild ready to swap by the end of the summer with inserts. I also want to get the final ramps made. Sometime this summer we’ll be cutting it!

Made some more progress. Have a few layers of wiring done.
GI
Opto power
Board link serial cables.

Next is switch wiring
Selonoid / flasher wiring.
And highest layer power to everything.

I hope this harness is semiuseable in future revisions.

I’m also replacing the upper playfeild wood. The original lasted longer than I originally thought. Was real garbage wood.

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I will have four controlled flashers. But 9 flasher bulbs. Five on the playfeild and four in the back box. Hope to have those all working by MGC.

Wow. Really coming along. Looks like my game. I see you have some of the recent changes too!! Let’s see How many more changes I make. Ha ha.

Actually I feel it’s pretty locked in. I have a scan of the upper playfeild if you want.