(Topic ID: 92738)

getting my gottlieb chime boxes back in tune

By manitouguy

9 years ago


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  • 37 posts
  • 19 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by HowardR
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    #1 9 years ago

    hi all, although this is a pretty simple and straight forward 'tune up' i thought i would post for any out there
    who were not aware of ...

    as a big part of the allure of the ems for me is the great sounds of bells and chimes ... awakening memories of watching pinball as a kid ... i finally got around to 'cleaning' up some of the sound units up on my wedge heads

    here is my 'step by step' for anyone interested

    made a call to a local door and door hardware supplier (mcgregor and thompson, shanahan's would also do...)

    a very nice guy there in the sales dept. confirmed they had standard rubber door mutes ... and if i wanted he would give me as many as i needed for free ... as long as i didn't need 'a thousand' !! i think they would only be a few pennies a piece anyhow

    so i got around to going and seeing him and he gave me a small bag of door mutes (i have heard there are 3 hardnesses in different rubbers, but they only carried the 'standard')

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    interestingly, although he was much younger than i, when i told him they were to put in my pins - he smiled and said his dad owned many bowling alleys locally, and as they closed dad would go and put the pins in the guys room as a kid - he said he always had about 10 pins in his bedroom growing up .. lucky guy!!!

    so simply remove the chime bars, and the 3 screws so the unit comes off the side of the cabinet

    take off four little 'grub' screws and the front face comes away to expose the coils and rods assembly

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    usually this is all gummed up with old weatherstrip in various states of decay - and bungs up the rods and their kicking action up against the chimes

    pull it all away and clean up nicely, clean the rods then just pop in 3 door mutes to the holes gottlieb kindly provided for this purpose way way back when

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    button it all up and listen to the pretty chimes

    cheers, Ron

    #2 9 years ago

    Your first picture looked like the playfield had a hole in it, then I realised it was a paper bag....... ha ha.

    #3 9 years ago

    Nice write up. Thanks!
    Who would guess that "door mutes" are what should be used.

    #4 9 years ago

    Or buy a chime re-build kit from PBR for $7.

    Curious if you think it sounds better with what you put in? I just bought the re-build kits as they are excellent value.

    #5 9 years ago

    yes the chime rebuild kits are great - in my case i didn't really need any of the other bits ... the rods and coils were fine, as were the upper rubber grommets and 'fabric' washers and alum bars

    i find the rods 'rebound' nicest off of the door mutes ...

    i also recall someone mentioning, maybe on here long ago, that the door mutes were originally intended for the gottlieb chimes, hence the holes right where they need to be ... until gottlieb found it was cheaper to use a foam strip??

    at any rate the door mutes don't degrade the way the foam does, and over time the foam can get 'punched' from the open bottom of the rods ...

    i just find the door mutes the nicest 'clean' sound and works great for my machines - they sound much better, and consistant, than the foam that was in them before

    #6 9 years ago

    mato, yes when i saw that first pic myself ... it looked like a huge wear area on my El Dorado playfield !!!! HORROR lol

    the El Dorado is very near to pristine ... but the chimes were not sounding cleanly or consistantly, especially the 10s scoring - that is part of what got me to finally do this little exercise .. much more enjoyable now

    #7 9 years ago

    I saw it as a Paper bag, with the mutes in the bottom. If you do not remember that there were paper bags every were. It easy to think that the mutes are sitting on a very worn out El Dorado. LOL.

    #8 9 years ago
    Quoted from manitouguy:

    mato, yes when i saw that first pic myself ... it looked like a huge wear area on my El Dorado playfield !!!! HORROR lol

    when i first saw the pic, i thought "damn, now THAT is a worn pf!!!"...

    i'll try these out... quick question: do they make the plunger land "softer"? one thing that is a minor irritation when about beer seal is that i can hear the plunger "bounce and make clunks" when it lands*... it is a minor irritation, but i wouldn't mind making it go away...

    one other thing on the chimes... i've found that messing around a bit with how tight you put on the nuts that hold the chime bars can also change the sound some...

    * it was a BIG irritation when i spent hours figuring out where the mystery "clunk" was coming from though...

    #9 9 years ago

    Funny how the holes were designed for the mutes. Then some one decided, "Hey we just need to stick this foam here instead". That must have saved at least 5 cents a game, back in the '70's.

    #10 9 years ago
    Quoted from Darcy:

    Funny how the holes were designed for the mutes. Then some one decided, "Hey we just need to stick this foam here instead". That must have saved at least 5 cents a game, back in the '70's.

    yea... it proves that we should never underestimate the power of an accountant's pen...

    #11 9 years ago

    I doubt they intended to use door mutes. The regular rubber grommets they used for knocker and bell stops also work (and already had supplies). Labor cost for laying one strip of foam versus inserting three grommets might be the reason though.

    #12 9 years ago
    Quoted from DirtFlipper:

    I doubt they intended to use door mutes. The regular rubber grommets they used for knocker and bell stops also work (and already had supplies). Labor cost for laying one strip of foam versus inserting three grommets might be the reason though.

    i'll buy the "labor angle"... those little grommets SUCK to put in*... someone needs to invent a hand tool to make that easier...

    * especially when they are used to hold pieces together, like that light bar/score reel holder assembly thing...

    #13 9 years ago

    I just rebuilt a chime unit with the PBR kit yesterday, wish I would have put in the old grommets instead of the foam.

    The kit came with 12 small nylon washers, do these just fit
    above and below each chime grommet?

    The chimes still don't sound great, do the bars ever wear out and need to be replaced?
    It looked like the plungers was in upside-down hitting bars with metal end of plunger.

    #14 9 years ago

    plastic ends hit the chimes

    i agree that the tightness of the nuts on top of bars can affect the tones, i like them loosish

    the washers sit under the chime bars

    i don't like the 'clunks' either and with the mutes and with my set up i don't have to hear those anymore

    #15 9 years ago
    Quoted from DirtFlipper:

    I doubt they intended to use door mutes. The regular rubber grommets they used for knocker and bell stops also work (and already had supplies). Labor cost for laying one strip of foam versus inserting three grommets might be the reason though.

    Yep, For sure. Assembly time is something that is counted. I was not really thinking of that at the time.

    #16 9 years ago

    no wonder my c37 was occasionally just giving a 'snick' sound on some of the scoring contacts ... particularly the 10 point

    typ foam 'wear' but in my case looked like someone had many years ago added a pencil eraser as a temp 'door mute' !!!

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    #17 9 years ago

    The original design was to use the bell chime grommets in those holes. I just confirmed it in an untouched Flip A Card Bell chime unit (gold metal style) which still has them in place. Not taking it apart, you can tell by their loose-ness, they are the taller type as used on the bell chime bars. But normal hardware store type rubber grommets which sit snug, will work too, they are just a bit harder to install.

    As to installation, the only tool I have ever needed was nothing more than a small flat head screw driver (the pocket protector size/style).

    From my experience, the Beer seal results in a quieter drop of the plunger (fresh beer seal, not one with the 3 holes worn in it). You won't get the muffled "clunk" that you might get with the rubber grommet. Again, when using the original GTB-2752, they seem to be a softer rubber than normal grommets so they also do a good job muffling the drop.

    Also, the beer seal places the plunger closer to the bell chime bar which shortens the stroke. This can result in two things, faster response, and a quieter strike. The faster response might come into play when replacing a Beep-boop-bop System 1 sound board with a Bell Chime assembly as "Some" Rockwell chipsets have a faster bonus count down than the earlier games which were built with Bell Chimes.

    If your Bell Chime bars have a divot worn in them from the plunger tip, you can reverse / flip them around to a fresh surface. You can also cut NEW bell chime bars from standard Bar aluminum sold at your local hardware store (3 foot lengths). While you can start with the same exact length, you may need to experiment with longer or shorter lengths to actually tune the chime to sound like the original note.

    #18 9 years ago
    Quoted from manitouguy:

    yes the chime rebuild kits are great - in my case i didn't really need any of the other bits ... the rods and coils were fine, as were the upper rubber grommets and 'fabric' washers and alum bars
    i find the rods 'rebound' nicest off of the door mutes ...
    i also recall someone mentioning, maybe on here long ago, that the door mutes were originally intended for the gottlieb chimes, hence the holes right where they need to be ... until gottlieb found it was cheaper to use a foam strip??
    at any rate the door mutes don't degrade the way the foam does, and over time the foam can get 'punched' from the open bottom of the rods ...
    i just find the door mutes the nicest 'clean' sound and works great for my machines - they sound much better, and consistant, than the foam that was in them before

    Oh no, having re-built my chimes on various games and noticed one game is quieter, probably because of the new thicker beer seal.

    Now I will have to get some of these mutes!

    Does pbr sell bell chime grommets that cactusjack mentions?

    #19 9 years ago
    Quoted from Shapeshifter:

    Does pbr sell bell chime grommets that cactusjack mentions?

    Yes. But specify the chime grommets, as the knocker/bell grommets are different.

    3 years later
    #20 6 years ago

    I am a total newbie and picked up a nice Spin Out on CL last month. However, there were no chimes to be heard... but the chime unit looked good. After a little poking around I found the rods had sort of bonded themselves into the original nasty foam strip and were simply stuck in the down position. Once I released them by scraping away the old foam with a flat head screwdriver, they worked perfectly... except you could now hear them "clunk" every time they dropped into the 42 year old disintegrated foam remnants hitting the metal. I found your post and am so grateful for this suggestion. I took the unit out, used some brasso on the chime bars and after a quick trip to the home depot ($3.47 for a 12 pack of grey door silencers) the unit looks and works like it is brand new! I can't believe how perfectly they fit and work. THANK YOU!

    #21 6 years ago
    Quoted from spinout:

    I am a total newbie and picked up a nice Spin Out on CL last month.

    Welcome to the madness! Congrats on your first successful repair. You should check out ORD Pinball in Elk Grove Village sometime.

    #22 6 years ago

    Spin out - glad to hear it worked out for you! I haven’t been as active on the forum but still tinker with my pinballs and still do intend to complete a number of decal projects that Have dragged on for years ...... one of them is some custom work for the spin out playfield to cover paint wear at the kick out hole - let’s see if i can’t finally get that one done in next couple of weeks!

    Cheers Ron

    #23 6 years ago

    PBR sells them as GTB-986

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    #24 6 years ago
    Quoted from pinhead52:

    PBR sells them as GTB-986

    I thought those were for cushioning the reset arms on the drop targets?????

    #25 6 years ago
    Quoted from SirScott:

    I thought those were for cushioning the reset arms on the drop targets?????

    yea, they do that too. I use then for chime units, drop target banks and also the pf top bar stops. Also on manual ball lift games there is a stop there as well. Bell stops too. lots of uses.

    #26 6 years ago
    Quoted from pinhead52:

    PBR sells them as GTB-986

    Thanks for posting this, always something new that I want/need from PBR and can never find. I am almost positive that I asked Steve about these 6 months ago, and he said he had nothing for me. Maybe I described it wrong.

    #27 6 years ago
    Quoted from Mikala:

    Thanks for posting this, always something new that I want/need from PBR and can never find. I am almost positive that I asked Steve about these 6 months ago, and he said he had nothing for me. Maybe I described it wrong.

    Yea if you say door mutes he'll wont know, just remeber the part no gtb 986. I have a excel spread sheet I use to build my order with, keeping lists of my prior orders, makes it fast for assembling the list and order by cutting and pasting into an email for Jimmy

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    #28 6 years ago

    For reference, just in the process of going through my C37 with 89,000 (3-ball) plays and here is the state of the factory strip. Not sure if I should replace with the grommets or the strip - might try the grommets first. It makes sense that the strip may lower the volume of chimes a slight bit since shorter distance means less time for plunger acceleration. If this is the case, perhaps another reason GTB changed to strip was for this reason (slight volume reduction).

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    #29 6 years ago

    go with the door mutes, it is a little louder! if you dont like the chimes for late night playing pull the common wire.

    #30 6 years ago

    Beer seal always comes out. Grommets in.

    Way better!

    #31 6 years ago
    Quoted from manitouguy:

    Spin out - glad to hear it worked out for you! I haven’t been as active on the forum but still tinker with my pinballs and still do intend to complete a number of decal projects that Have dragged on for years ...... one of them is some custom work for the spin out playfield to cover paint wear at the kick out hole - let’s see if i can’t finally get that one done in next couple of weeks!
    Cheers Ron

    Thank you again! Omg I read through that thread and absolutely love the work you did since I have that kikck out wear spot. Like everyone else I loved the blue, but in the end the pink you went with was the winner. I would love to get my hands on that art if you are willing to share. Thanks! Patrick

    #32 6 years ago

    I’ve let others here know I’ll make the decal available

    I’m sadly super slow with my projects and many have likely given up on me ! But I’ll get them done

    Cheers Ron

    #33 6 years ago
    Quoted from manitouguy:

    I’ve let others here know I’ll make the decal available
    I’m sadly super slow with my projects and many have likely given up on me ! But I’ll get them done
    Cheers Ron

    Cool! Thanks again!

    #34 6 years ago
    Quoted from yancy:

    Welcome to the madness! Congrats on your first successful repair. You should check out ORD Pinball in Elk Grove Village sometime.

    Thank you!.. I may just do that - literally in my backyard! I have driven past Stern probably a 1000 times and had no idea it was there... they are in one of the largest industrial parks in the US.

    1 year later
    #35 4 years ago

    Just rebuilt my #Jacks Open chimes. Originally opened this thread to get advice about how tight to set the chime bar nuts. Didn't like the muted sound with the beer seal, so I used 3 of the old chime bar grommets, and wow I'm a happy camper. This site is the best for archiving and retreiving great info!
    Jim

    10 months later
    #36 3 years ago

    Rebuilding chimes on my Atlantis...where can a guy get the black rubber pieces that go in the chime bar holes and under the nut?

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