(Topic ID: 222634)

Getting my feet wet with 3D printing...

By pb456

5 years ago


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  • 273 posts
  • 47 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by Shredso
  • Topic is favorited by 39 Pinsiders

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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider mbwalker.
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#24 5 years ago

Every pinball part I wanted to make I had to draw myself. I suspect most people just don't share (me included) since it's more 'tinkering' than anything else. We should start a repository here!

If you want to draw simple stuff, try TinkerCAD. I use it fairly often - I wish I had more free time to learn to use the more CAD vector oriented software. TinkerCAD lets you draw basic shapes, then combine (or subtract them) to form a final shape. Most the time it's fine, other times...nope. Its web based and made by the same people that make AutoCAD.

I made this plastic support for my Roller Games. Two seperate prints (one red, one black).
20180325_223049 (resized).jpg20180325_223049 (resized).jpg

If you want to try 3D scanning, look into these. No experience and don't know the resolution or quality, but might be worth playing with.
Capture (resized).PNGCapture (resized).PNG

Also, look into PLA + (sometimes called 'plus').

1 week later
#42 5 years ago
Quoted from pkiefert:

PLA isn't perfect, but it worked well on our Python's Pinball Circus whitewood. We used it for the Elephant head that had ball contact as the ball was loaded onto the trunk and rolled down it, but not super crazy direct impacts. I think we used 45% infill, but that seemed like overkill for it.
Anything direct impacts I wouldn't use it though. Use the PLA+ which generally has as good of performance as ABS.

Ditto there. Everything I've made is not meant for ball contact or even any kind of impact. I just don't see 3D parts lasting.

Just repeating what I heard...PLA+ (what I typically use) isn't even as strong as straight PLA, but it has move 'give', which people tend to (incorrectly) think is stronger. Sounds like it's actually a bit more flexible, not as brittle.

I think 3D's best application is for the game mods. Print them, paint them..tada - a cheap mod that looks good. The doughnut shop in Getaway comes to mind. A few people tinkering w/that improvement and some have looked rather impressive.

Making a homebrew is another area I think 3D printing shines. Easy to fool around w/prototypes before committing to real parts. Wonder if anyone has made the equivalent of a metal habitrail? I suppose print size would be an issue.

1 month later
#56 5 years ago

Impressive results.

1 week later
#97 5 years ago

Working on a speaker spacer for Stern 4" backbox speakers. Made such that I can still use the short screws meant for the stock speakers and to provide a little offset for the tweeter (which sticks out the front a tad). Still tinkering with the measurements.

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4 weeks later
#129 5 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

...Add PEI sheet to your bed and be done with glue forever on All print materials....

How does this compare to glass? I have glass, but it's more for getting a level surface on my Anet (cheapie kit) than anything else. Really haven't been using anything on the glass, but I just print PLA and PLA+

1 week later
#152 5 years ago
Quoted from pb456:

...I use Simplify 3D almost exclusively (sometimes I use Cura when I'm lazy and don't want to walk back into the office to slice!).

I used Cura a lot, but I noticed it just didn't draw small circles on the initial layers very well. Everything else printed just fine (like you - higher temps, less gap between nozzle and glass, but I could never seem to control the speed of the circle very well (always too fast) and the filament wouldn't adhere very well (or at all). Would just drive me nuts. For the most part, everything else printed w/o issues.

Switched to Simplfy3D...no issues on the circles. Nice and clean. I have noticed some minor gaps between the perimeter and infill - so I'm experimenting with the over-extrude settings.

Ditto on the glass usage, I pretty much do the same thing.

#153 5 years ago
Quoted from yfz450:

Tired of paying a premium for Bally backbox lamp shields, so I printed my own.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice print. Might want to stick LED's in that area to reduce heat. Probably not an issue, but it sure won't be an issues w/LED.

#154 5 years ago

It would be nice if we could have a repository here at Pinside for all of us to stick our models in for everyone to use. Anyone know how to accomplish that or is that something Robin needs to do?

#170 5 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Thingiverse.com seems to have it figured out pretty well

Keeping files local on pinside seems more beneficial due to the forums.

#172 5 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

No argument here; it’s a working model is all I meant. Robin would have to be wary of trademark and copyright issues though. Who knows when Rick from PPS might come through! He’s been promising a Black Rose whirlpool for actual YEARS, and nothing. That and the cannon body could be printed

Yeah, that was just a quick response when I had a free minute.

I was thinking along the lines of keeping files open source, then if the next person wanted to mod it to improve or maybe update for a later game...they'd have an original file and a good start. And that's where the Thingiverse aspect didn't seem to fit well since we wouldn't have the forum interaction.

I actually thought about the copyright/trademark issue too. But then I thought if a person isn't exactly duplicating....just the same 'form, fit, function' - but not identical, that might still be legal to make a part. Maybe an attorney can chime in.

Just my 2 cents! Would be kinda neat tho to have a place to put files to share.

1 week later
#216 5 years ago

Anyone have experience with the delta kit printers?

#223 5 years ago
Quoted from ronaldvg:

Yes, I do, I have had a Prusa I3MK2, but really they are way overpriced for what you get. Ok, they do print nice but they are put together with tie wraps. Silly for the price.
I have bought a used Anycubic Kossel and bought the electronics from Duet, so the board and a smart effector, together with a normal E3D v6 hotend. Also (and that was crucial) I bought Haydn's magnetic arms. Best upgrade ever. Put in an aluminium heatbed with anycubic Ultrabase.
It prints very good and much quicker than my Prusa did with no noticable decrease in quality.
Delta printer have a bad rep for being difficult to calibrate, but the Duet hardware does it all automatically. Plus it is proper modern hardware with a color touchscreen and wifi built in and 32 bit all controllable from a PC in a webbrowser, nothing like the 8 bit board with the cheap monochrome display that Prusa still uses.
Do not get me wrong: again, the Prusa is a good printer, but hardly worth the money they are costing. I get better results with my 500 dollar delta and it is doing it in style

I was actually looking at some of the Kossel models along w/some of the upgrades you mentioned. The auto leveling is an interesting feature. I don't mind tweaking mine, but I think I'm past the manual level part of the hobby. Any experience with the linear option that I see on some of the deltas?

#229 5 years ago
Quoted from ronaldvg:

Yes, I have actually two delta's (one of them the smaller Anycubic and one XXL of the makers of the Duet hardware) both with the linear option. But in my opinion that does not contribute that much. A well built carriage system is as good as a linear. Linear even makes a little more noise (I also had a SeemeCNC Rostock Max with carriages, worked very good).
Keep in mind that the system should be as rigid as possible, so as little movement as possible that is not wanted. In that regard I love Haydn's magnetic arms for a Delta. They are very strong but also very smooth, so no slack at all in the system. Also keep the belts tensioned. Oh and never use the belt tensioners that clip on to the belts as they make the whole belt a sort of spring, not what you want.

Thanks for the comments ron, much appreciated!

#243 5 years ago
Quoted from DDDwingmaster:

PLA should be fine for printing posts. The ball only hits the rubber, and if you print the post massive with 100% infill it would last forever.
I tried both PLA and ABS for posts in my AFM rebuild, and they are all fine. Would not even know any more which is which.
Avoid POSTS designs that are hollow inside. The extra material cost printing it massive is minimal and it makes the post so much stronger. It also gives a larger area where the post touches the playfield, resulting in much less risk of damaging the clear on heavy impacted posts.

Would PLA+ be a better option? I just print as a hobby, so no means an expert like some of the guys here that print as a part of their career. I've read where people think PLA+ is stronger, but it sounds like the + is just somewhat more flexible, giving people the wrong impression since it has more 'give'. If so, would PLA+ be a better way to go? Just curious.

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