(Topic ID: 222634)

Getting my feet wet with 3D printing...

By pb456

5 years ago


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  • 273 posts
  • 47 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by Shredso
  • Topic is favorited by 39 Pinsiders

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#105 5 years ago

Those Gottliebs are very similar to the ultra hard to find GamePlan drops. I would like to see someone make a model for them.

#111 5 years ago

Slick! Did you hand paint or change the filament?

2 weeks later
#133 5 years ago

The wood infused PLA from Hatchbox is really nice.

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#140 5 years ago

Has anyone tried polishing PLA in corn cob or walnut media? I might have to try that with my pinball parts tumbler.

#143 5 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Trust me. Doesn't work. Tried and failed all attempts. Basically all you get is a really dirty looking part as all the media just packs in all the layer lines. Not many options to polish PLA other then some of the secondary spray coatings.

Thanks for the info! I’ve had decent results with sanding, priming, sanding, and painting. Thankfully I don’t usual print anything that requires a finished look.

#161 5 years ago

Hatch is good for me at 200F, Bed at 60. Original build plate, no issues.

#177 5 years ago

Nice! Time to get some of that Hatchbox Wood PLA.

#183 5 years ago
Quoted from Geteos:

Yea I might try that for the doors but for now it'll be prime and paint. I'm still tweaking the LED holders too so that they slot in correctly.
It's tricky getting the right size with the rough tolerances of the machine.
I work a lot with high precision ball screws and have thought of building a 3d printer myself with a bunch of dead stock items so I could hit 20 micron tolerances, but that's a project for another year.

It seems like it's around .15mm offset for nice fitment on my ender3. I bet sanding those leds to defuse them will make them look nice.

#205 5 years ago

I miss my Objet at the university, amazing detail and no layers. Durability isn’t very good, but great for mold making.

There’s such a limitation on these FDM printers, I personally can’t see spending more on them for small and diminishing returns. The ender3 was the first one I saw that hit the nearly disposable 200 dollar price point and delivered what I expect from FDM.

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1 week later
#217 5 years ago

Just finished my Octoprint/Rpi setup with LED overhead lights. All powered off the printers 24v with a 5v stepdown for the Pi. One switch for on/off is really nice, maybe I’ll throw it on a Zwave switch to bring it up on demand. It lives in the basement on top of the beer fridge next to BH.

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#219 5 years ago

It's pretty easy to put together. The power supply has 3 - 24v outputs. You can wire 24V out into an LM2596, and dial that down to 5v before attaching to the PI. You do have to solder on the 24v and 5v USB connections. There are a ton of cases for the LM2596 on Thingiverse, I used some velcro to attach that box just under the power supply in back. For the LEDs, I chose 24V LEDS, so I wired them straight into the PS and drilled a hole in the bottom of the plastic PS case and ran the wires up the channel. Super clean.

The camera feature is cool. It has built in timelapse, and ties right into my Blue Iris home security feeds. The ability to submit jobs from my 2nd floor down to my basement (instead of running SDs) is really great too.

I haven't upgraded the firmware yet, and Octoprint has a huge nag screen telling me my firmware does not have thermal runaway protection (I know!) I'm contemplating upgrading the controller to one with a bootloader. They're only 20 bucks. How easy was it to flash the stock firmware?

#221 5 years ago

Wow. So that 20 dollar mainboard with the 12v outputs and bootloader is strarting to look pretty good! I think I have an Arduino around here somewhere though...

#228 5 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

The Ender, for example is extremely loud compared to the i3MK3.

Which is why I banished it to the basement where it can make all the loud Space Invaders sounds it wants.

#251 5 years ago
Quoted from Shredso:

I'm powering my pi this way from the Ender 3 and I get the lightning bolt for under voltage. Voltage measures fine though, any thoughts?
Also, I'd like to see some pics of the lights you did, I've been thinking about adding some for the camera.

Lighting bolt in the Octoprint web gui? I ran a 14 hour print the other day and didn't see anything. I set my voltage to 5.1 just to make sure it was getting a solid 5v.

Here's the thingi file I used. I printed 2 of them and cut 1 to length (overhangs a bit): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2981368

Just buy a strip of 24v 5050 leds add wire length and run those right to the PS down the right hand channel and up into the PS.

#259 5 years ago
Quoted from Shredso:

amazon.com link »
This is what I bought. It says 3A in the listing. Maybe I will bump it up to 5.1v and see what happens.

That looks like the same ones I have. If bumping up the voltage doesn't help, I'd try another one from the pack.

#268 5 years ago

Recently did this print. Printed all at once vertically. I’d say Calibrate amd work on your slicer. No supports inside the model or holes. this is right off the printer after snapping off brim and mouthpiece support.

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#271 5 years ago

Yep, that’s the wood. I sanded it and stained it and wiped on some poly. It finished nicely, but it’s just off key at every note. And yes, the right hand side holes almost do nothing to change the notes. It’s great for mimicking a Morning Dove though!

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