(Topic ID: 222634)

Getting my feet wet with 3D printing...

By pb456

5 years ago


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  • 273 posts
  • 47 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by Shredso
  • Topic is favorited by 39 Pinsiders

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#3 5 years ago

Give Autodesk Fushion 360 a try. It's free and after a few video lessons on YouTube you'll be creating in no time.

2 months later
#27 5 years ago
Quoted from swinks:

Converting solidworks to stl is an easy 10 second process - simply open and "save as"
While getting people to help with conversion is good, grab a copy of fusion or solidworks if you can and start to learn the 3d modelling process as it is so valueable
As for scanners they get close but not as sharp as modelling yourself, as I have had to remodel a few items for people that they took to a modelling service and honestly the scan was 0.2-0.4mm lumps

Think that depends on the scanner you have and knowledge in using it. Mine scans to .05 which is far from what any 3D printer can export. Plus, while I am quite proficient at Fusion rarely will that help you when creating or detailing non geometric items like figures or animals in detail. Tried drawing a Monkey in Fusion for hours, scanned scales and modeled it in minutes on a scanner. Right tool for the job depends on what your creating.

#35 5 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Has anybody tried using the Microsoft Kinect for scanning? I read somewhere that’s not too difficult but I’m not sure on the quality

Virtually useless in my testing. While it can scan the resolution result would be comparable to simply molding the object in clay with your hands. It falls in the “you get what you pay for” category. And no it’s not difficult though hardly worth the result.

#37 5 years ago
Quoted from pb456:

Insteresting Thanks - I'll bring them into Simplify 3D and see what I can accomplish and post pics.
Thank you thank you thank you!!!!

Simplify is the Best. Note that it has a very good clean feature to repair any conversion issues. Good luck.

2 months later
#58 5 years ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

From my small amount to reading is seems that it depends on the PLA you use. But, in general you need different "stuff" to smooth PLA than you do for ABS. But, some people have dipped PLA in acetone and gotten some smoothing. So, I don't really know myself.
I have acetone in my garage, so I might print another part for testing and try dipping it and see what happens....

You can Not smooth PLA with Acetone only filler sprays. ABS Can be smoothed with using an acetone vapor but know that it is Dangerous to do. Trust me on that one lol.

#67 5 years ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

That really depends on the printer and how it uses the connection. I have one with a USB connection, but it uploads the entire gcode file before starting the job. You can use the USB during the job to monitor (progress, extruder temp, bed temp, etc.).

Agreed. When using a USB or computer connection printers Upload the file to memory they do not run off your computer connection. How many files they can store to onboard memory depends on the printer.

#83 5 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

I've done zero upgrades on the Ender 3 I use and it's fine. I did try a glass bed, but I didn't like it, so the stock Ender 3 bed is fine.
The single biggest variable in my experience is the quality of the filament. DO NOT CHEAP OUT ON FILAMENT. I generally use Hatchbox, although the winding on some spools from them has been questionable lately. Also, order a 5 or 10 pack of extruder nozzles to have on hand. Some people are into unplugging them when they get jammed, but if I can't do it in a few tries, I just put a new one on - they're so cheap it's not worth wasting time.

Remove old nozzle, hold with pliers, heat with a small propane torch and a light wire brush and they are as good as new. I can generally do a thousand parts with a single nozzle and if your setting are correct you will rarely have a clogged nozzle. Granted I use the Swiss all metal hotend on all my machines so there is little to get clogged.

1 week later
#100 5 years ago
Quoted from benheck:

You can totally print with metals. Granted it's metal particles suspended in PLA but when you polish it up looks very cool.
Some approach 90% actual metal. You can bake it to really seal the seal though shrinkage oocurs which may affect your design.

Actually...... You can print 100% metal in Any shape to micron level for some time now. I rep with EOS systems which can print in Any metal to exact certs from titanium to general metals. Part is as if you machined it to the same specs. Granted you need close to 1 million to get started..... lol

https://www.eos.info/en

4 weeks later
#124 5 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Tantrum, do you have any experience with the newer metal-embedded filaments? Are they mainly just for show, or do they exhibit higher tensile strength than regular filament?

We have done much experimenting with every type of filament from rubber to nylon and the metal based options are more for esthetics over function. Really doesn't add any strength or value other then they are slightly magnetic. Simple to experiment with you really don't need any expensive setup to use them. A simple low cost hardened nozzle ($9) works for hundreds of parts.

#125 5 years ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

I realize it's not a huge deal to cut off the raft, but I got tired of that. So, I've been using some spray adhesive that has been working great:
amazon.com link »

Trust this suggestion as we have used EVERY bonding option from glass to glue. Add PEI sheet to your bed and be done with glue forever on All print materials. Great surface finish and no more cleaning goo off every dam part and machine. Best $20 you will ever spend. We have printed Thousands of parts on our Raise3D Pro machines with the same sheet. Priceless in my opinion.

#127 5 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Yes, the PEI sheet in the flex steel on my Prusa is awesome. I never use a raft. Clean with 90% alcohol between prints, and an occasional cleaning with acetone, and I’m golden. You do have to use a release agent (ie gluestick) on some materials such as PET or the will damage the PET.

Yes and no. With PETG and PET you simply need to slightly raise your first layer offset. As for reconditioning, every hundred prints a Light sanding with 800 grit sandpaper and alcohol clean and it new again.

#132 5 years ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

How does this compare to glass? I have glass, but it's more for getting a level surface on my Anet (cheapie kit) than anything else. Really haven't been using anything on the glass, but I just print PLA and PLA+

PEI sheet takes 5 minutes to bond to your build plate with the provided 3M adhesive sheet. It gives virtually the Same smooth base finish as glass only with No need for glue sticks or bonding agents. Plus unlike glass it is thin enough to transfer build plate temps quickly and evenly. Plus you can cut larger sheets to size easily if your budget conscience. You don’t need flex plates or any of fancy plate add ons. Watch some YouTube vids on install and you will never look back. Stop washing glass and make parts!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XLD5QH/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title

And the only time I use a raft is if I want to waste time or filament. Have yet to find a part that needs a raft unless your setup is wrong.

#141 5 years ago
Quoted from catboxer:

Has anyone tried polishing PLA in corn cob or walnut media? I might have to try that with my pinball parts tumbler.

Trust me. Doesn't work. Tried and failed all attempts. Basically all you get is a really dirty looking part as all the media just packs in all the layer lines. Not many options to polish PLA other then some of the secondary spray coatings.

#144 5 years ago
Quoted from catboxer:

Thanks for the info! I’ve had decent results with sanding, priming, sanding, and painting. Thankfully I don’t usual print anything that requires a finished look.

IF you really need a smooth perfect part you could always switch over to ABS and try Vapor smoothing. (YouTube it). A bit dangerous if done wrong but the results are rather incredible if you perfect the setup and time. Good Luck!

#148 5 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

No more ABS...
My recommendation is Polysmooth.
https://eu.polymaker.com/product/polysmooth/

Just use caution, that company and virtually all of it's products have been out of stock for a Long time. The vendors say they are circling the drain sadly.

#166 5 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Damn, ok I’ll up the temp quite a bit then.
Fan is pretty much at 100% I think, whetever the default CURA settings are for the Ender3 profile - I haven’t actually adjusted that much.
What other printer would you recommend, just out of curiosity. I have definitely gotten a bunch of good prints but the Ender3 is so damn frustrating

A bit of misinformation. Technically PLA printing does Not need a heated bed so turning it up will do little more than warp parts at times. Not bad to use a heated bed but the temp you had is fine. 40-60 is fine though not needed. For ABS a heated bed is a Must. For 3D printers like slicers you get what you pay for in most cases. We personally have 4 Raise3D Pro units. Plug and play and print down to .05mm without effort. No bed alignment of leveling just load and go pallet 24/7. We also have a few Creator Pro small units for small batch parts which have proven bulletproof and a good starting point in my opinion. If you want to make life easy Invest in Simplify3D slicing software. Yes you can get free software but Simplify will pay for itself Fast. Don't get frustrated, a successful creation is a wonderful feeling! Finally, and my advise to Anyone starting our (or frustrated) is to Know why your fixing/failing your prints with Knowledge. I find this link a very valuable resource for Why is this not what I wanted and how to solve it. I think we just passed 60,000 printing hours so these can be fun and profitable. Good Luck #Rdoyle1978

https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#not-extruding-enough-plastic

raise3d-pro2.jpg (resized).pngraise3d-pro2.jpg (resized).png
#206 5 years ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

Here is a sample of a proto-type Palantir stand for LOTR I'm working on. My, goal is to not have it look like it was 3D printed (i.e. no striation lines). I know I can sand and prime and all that. It'd just be nice to print something and not have to mess with smoothing it.
[quoted image]

Looks like you have a decent part you just have to remember with any printer Quality = time + cost. Looking at your radius print and chamfer you are pushing layer height and nozzle diameter to far which = fast but at a cost of quality. Consider using a smaller or variable layer height say .1mm and I suspect most of that would blend much better. I suspect you are also using a .4mm nozzle. Faster but at a cost of quality. Consider trying a .2mm nozzle and see how much it improves. I have printed parts in the .15mm nozzle range at .05mm layer height that finish as a perfect sphere. Along with settings sometimes you have to use the right tool to get the job done to your requirements.

#208 5 years ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

Yep, I am using a 0.4mm nozzle. I just ordered some 0.2mm. So I'll give that a try and see how the results turn out!

Just remember Layer height is the primary definition of surface finish. The smaller nozzle will help but you need to reduce layer height in your slicer. Good Luck!

#210 5 years ago
Quoted from BrewNinja:

I would say your part looks really good. FDM printing is layers upon layers. You aren't going to notice a difference in quality going to a prusa to be honest. Set the layer height to something like .8 or 1.2 with your .4 nozzle and see how much nicer it is (and watch the print time increase substantially). Looks like you have most of your settings dialed in pretty well already.

Umm. I think your decimal is the wrong place. At .8 or 1.2 his part would look like Stairs and I am fairly confident would never print with those massive layer heights. lol

2 weeks later
#256 5 years ago
Quoted from latenite04:

I'd like to try printing nylon but I have a few questions. Is it considered abrasive, do I need a hardened nozzle for it? Does anyone have any recommendations for a good brand?

A hardened nozzle is not the issue. To print nylon you Do however need a good continuous filament dryer. I run nylon for 100s of hours and it absorbs moisture in hours unless its bone dry. Drying it will only work for a few hours than its back to the oven to dry again for any part success. I opted for a constant drying system $$$ and all works perfectly.

#258 5 years ago
Quoted from Rambo:

Have you considered PETG? You'll get the majority of the mechanical benefits of nylon, but is much easier to print with, and isn't as hydrophilic as nylon (won't require constant drying).
I have printed PETG parts in use outside as nozzles for my water feature, and they've withstood sun, heat, cold, constant water pressure, etc. I also use it for brackets that see constant mechanical impacts, and it's never let me down. PETG also tends to be quite a bit cheaper than nylon in most cases.

Agreed. To put it bluntly, nylon is a bitch you only deal with if you Have to. lol

#267 5 years ago
Quoted from Shredso:

Has anyone tried flame polishing PLA? I printed an ocarina, I'm still learning the printer and tweaking it. It came out decent. There was quite a but of junk left behind from the supports, and the holes were a little messy. I should have taken a picture before sanding. Sanding left it very dull. I used 220. I'm sure finer grits would eventually polish it, but I figured why not try the torch? I'm happy with the result. It was just an experiment, so i didn't go crazy sanding. I kinda wish I did seeing how good it came out. I did burn it a little in one spot. Not unlike flame polishing a ramp, you need to be careful. I really should have documented the tone and tuning before and after. I will need to print another one.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Just a suggestion. Split that model in half at the belly and print in 2 pieces with NO supports vertically and you will have very little to clean up and a simple bond or super glue you will never see the seam. looks good.

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