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(Topic ID: 222634)

Getting my feet wet with 3D printing...


By pb456

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 273 posts
  • 47 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Shredso
  • Topic is favorited by 42 Pinsiders

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#176 1 year ago

Working on a couple things for my JP. Modeled my own gate in Fusion 360, printed in PLA. Still working on the LED holders and the overall dimensions. Also working on a couple light up signs for the 3 scoops in clear PLA. All done on my Ender3.

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#179 1 year ago
Quoted from catboxer:

Nice! Time to get some of that Hatchbox Wood PLA.

Yea I might try that for the doors but for now it'll be prime and paint. I'm still tweaking the LED holders too so that they slot in correctly.

It's tricky getting the right size with the rough tolerances of the machine.

I work a lot with high precision ball screws and have thought of building a 3d printer myself with a bunch of dead stock items so I could hit 20 micron tolerances, but that's a project for another year.

#180 1 year ago
Quoted from kcZ:

Is that one of the models from Thingiverse? I've seen some on there and have been tempted to print them... Even more tempted after seeing yours.

I tried the one from thingiverse, but I found that it didn't really work for the game.

So rather than modify that one, I just drew mine from scratch and added the integrated LED holders with holes for wire passthrus and mounting tabs to use the existing holes. Right now the doors swing but they hit the tabs. I haven't decided if I want the doors to swing or not...

#184 1 year ago

Yea I’ll consider releasing them once I get them sorted. I still need to figure out the sign. I’m trying to remix the one I found on thingiverse to work, but I’m still learning how to work with meshes.

#193 1 year ago
Quoted from pb456:

Nice one- you should do an extruder calibration - will improve 'smoothness' of those vertical walls.
https://3daddict.com/3d-printer-extruder-calibration-steps/

Cool, I'll look into that. I'm printing v4 of the gate model now in a different orientation to see if it'll help. I also made the stacks hollow to the wiring in. I left holes on the back right now to see which wiring method works better.

I also modelled up the 3 scoop signs tonight. I have to take some measurements of the bulbs to make some sort of integrated holder on the back. I'm thinking something the existing lights can just snap into. Also I don't love the proportions of the lightning bolt so I'll probably have to play around with it some more. I was thinking of printing these in a translucent material (natural PLA) and then painting the depressed areas black to block out the light.

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#203 1 year ago

I started off with an MP Select Mini, imo it's a good printer to get your feet wet with 3D printing with minimal investment. It's biggest hang up I found was making sure the bed was level and getting prints to stick. Adding a glass bed made it a lot more usable, but I still had issues with the first layer not sticking.

I sold that machine and bought an Ender3 for the increased print area. The way I see it, is that its lower cost is offset by some of the tweaking that is necessary to get decent prints out of it. Leveling the bed is still an issue, but I picked up a BL touch that I'm going to add to get bed leveling. All the tweaks add time/expense but I consider it part of the hobby.

If I were going to use the machine to produce larger quantities of parts, I would invest in a higher end machine that has all the features that make printing more consistent and simplified. Whether that's worth paying for upfront for someone who is new to 3D printing depends on the comfort level of the individual.

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