I use glass (mirror tile actually) and hairspray. Not sure how it involves lots of time. When things stop sticking (and if I spread small things around on the build plate, this is a long time), I wash it with some soap and water in the sink, then take the 5 seconds to put on some more hairspray. Then start over. Not hard at all. And since I got a 6 pack of mirror tiles for like $10, I can go a LONG time between cleanings.

I have an Ender 3. I print on mirror, and my print bottoms are shiny and smooth as glass. Im not saying they are just smooth, like they literally look like opaque glass. Its a thing of beauty.

My buddy recently got a Prusa and commented on how nice my prints looked (I had to print him a piece he broke on his). Can the Ender 3 print as well as or better than a Prusa? Absolutely. It all comes down to spending time setting things up and figuring out how to make it better. I also spent a LOT less than he did on his. However, I also spent probably more time in setup. I'm not saying that the Prusa isn't a nice machine, it absolutely is. But don't expect that because its a Prusa, it will automatically be better. Most of how things turn out is on the user, making sure you have settings dialed in for the specific filament you are using and your machine.

I would say your part looks really good. FDM printing is layers upon layers. You aren't going to notice a difference in quality going to a prusa to be honest. Set the layer height to something like .8 or 1.2 with your .4 nozzle and see how much nicer it is (and watch the print time increase substantially). Looks like you have most of your settings dialed in pretty well already.

Lol.... That's what I get trying to type on my phone

Its not that hard to flash. It takes a few minutes. Look for the "Teaching Tech" ender 3 flashing video. He talks about everything you need to do, and how to edit Marlin for the settings you need. Especially if you already have an arduino sitting around, it takes a few minutes. Easy peasy.

Whether or not its worth paying the premium or not, PLA+ is different than regular PLA. It tends to have more bend to it before it breaks than regular PLA. I love esun pla+. Ill pay the $4 or so extra to run that over other high end PLA. You do have to run it about 20* hotter while printing.

Anyone model out the Williams white post spacer used on most of the WPC games? (this guy for reference: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8371 ) If someone has done it, I wont waste the time. But if not, Ill do it. Shouldn't take more than a few minutes I know, but I don't have one in front of me to measure is all.