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(Topic ID: 222634)

Getting my feet wet with 3D printing...


By pb456

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 273 posts
  • 47 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Shredso
  • Topic is favorited by 42 Pinsiders

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There are 273 posts in this topic. You are on page 6 of 6.
#251 1 year ago
Quoted from Shredso:

I'm powering my pi this way from the Ender 3 and I get the lightning bolt for under voltage. Voltage measures fine though, any thoughts?
Also, I'd like to see some pics of the lights you did, I've been thinking about adding some for the camera.

Lighting bolt in the Octoprint web gui? I ran a 14 hour print the other day and didn't see anything. I set my voltage to 5.1 just to make sure it was getting a solid 5v.

Here's the thingi file I used. I printed 2 of them and cut 1 to length (overhangs a bit): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2981368

Just buy a strip of 24v 5050 leds add wire length and run those right to the PS down the right hand channel and up into the PS.

#252 1 year ago
Quoted from Shredso:

I'm powering my pi this way from the Ender 3 and I get the lightning bolt for under voltage. Voltage measures fine though, any thoughts?
Also, I'd like to see some pics of the lights you did, I've been thinking about adding some for the camera.

RPis need 2.5 amp power supplies to work consistently. My guess is your stepdown transformer can't put out enough current.

#253 1 year ago
Quoted from Rambo:

RPis need 2.5 amp power supplies to work consistently. My guess is your stepdown transformer can't put out enough current.

amazon.com link »

This is what I bought. It says 3A in the listing. Maybe I will bump it up to 5.1v and see what happens.

#254 1 year ago

Whether or not its worth paying the premium or not, PLA+ is different than regular PLA. It tends to have more bend to it before it breaks than regular PLA. I love esun pla+. Ill pay the $4 or so extra to run that over other high end PLA. You do have to run it about 20* hotter while printing.

#255 1 year ago

I'd like to try printing nylon but I have a few questions. Is it considered abrasive, do I need a hardened nozzle for it? Does anyone have any recommendations for a good brand?

#256 1 year ago
Quoted from latenite04:

I'd like to try printing nylon but I have a few questions. Is it considered abrasive, do I need a hardened nozzle for it? Does anyone have any recommendations for a good brand?

A hardened nozzle is not the issue. To print nylon you Do however need a good continuous filament dryer. I run nylon for 100s of hours and it absorbs moisture in hours unless its bone dry. Drying it will only work for a few hours than its back to the oven to dry again for any part success. I opted for a constant drying system $$$ and all works perfectly.

#257 1 year ago
Quoted from latenite04:

I'd like to try printing nylon but I have a few questions. Is it considered abrasive, do I need a hardened nozzle for it? Does anyone have any recommendations for a good brand?

Have you considered PETG? You'll get the majority of the mechanical benefits of nylon, but is much easier to print with, and isn't as hydrophilic as nylon (won't require constant drying).

I have printed PETG parts in use outside as nozzles for my water feature, and they've withstood sun, heat, cold, constant water pressure, etc. I also use it for brackets that see constant mechanical impacts, and it's never let me down. PETG also tends to be quite a bit cheaper than nylon in most cases.

#258 1 year ago
Quoted from Rambo:

Have you considered PETG? You'll get the majority of the mechanical benefits of nylon, but is much easier to print with, and isn't as hydrophilic as nylon (won't require constant drying).
I have printed PETG parts in use outside as nozzles for my water feature, and they've withstood sun, heat, cold, constant water pressure, etc. I also use it for brackets that see constant mechanical impacts, and it's never let me down. PETG also tends to be quite a bit cheaper than nylon in most cases.

Agreed. To put it bluntly, nylon is a bitch you only deal with if you Have to. lol

#259 1 year ago
Quoted from Shredso:

amazon.com link »
This is what I bought. It says 3A in the listing. Maybe I will bump it up to 5.1v and see what happens.

That looks like the same ones I have. If bumping up the voltage doesn't help, I'd try another one from the pack.

#260 1 year ago

Thanks for all the info. I don't have a specific need for nylon at this point, I was just thinking of trying it to have some experience in case I need it. I have a spare oven to dry it in and an enclosed spool holder with desiccant but it still sounds like a pain so maybe I'll skip it. I didn't realize nylon would need constant drying. I'll have to give PETG a try.

#261 1 year ago
Quoted from pb456:

I've been looking for a 1-3/16" Gottlieb double post STL but have been unable to find it - C17492C is the Gottlieb part number.
I believe I have found a single post, and attached is the SOLIDWORKS file for it - wondering if some hoopty frood out there could make it into the double post?
https://1drv.ms/f/s!AvCqcjWCTr807kUBQOvxWugOLPm6
TIA

of those 2 files, the taller one does not seem correct compared to the new ones I just received and the double post is based on the shorter one. The taller one has the starpost grooves like a Bally post. I will model the double post with the true face facets over the next week.

if you want to view solidwork files and don't have solidworks you can download edrawings by the same company which is a 3d file viewer

#262 1 year ago
Quoted from swinks:

of those 2 files, the taller one does not seem correct compared to the new ones I just received and the double post is based on the shorter one. The taller one has the starpost grooves like a Bally post. I will model the double post with the true face facets over the next week.
if you want to view solidwork files and don't have solidworks you can download edrawings by the same company which is a 3d file viewer

Swinks, I already modeled this for pb456. Pm me your email and I’ll send the files.

Bob

#263 1 year ago
Quoted from BobLangelius:

Swinks, I already modeled this for pb456. Pm me your email and I’ll send the files.
Bob

Here's some of Bob's work. Fan-freaking-tastic.

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#264 1 year ago

Nice. Was it the 1/2” or the 3/8” that worked?

#265 1 year ago
Quoted from latenite04:

Thanks for all the info. I don't have a specific need for nylon at this point, I was just thinking of trying it to have some experience in case I need it. I have a spare oven to dry it in and an enclosed spool holder with desiccant but it still sounds like a pain so maybe I'll skip it. I didn't realize nylon would need constant drying. I'll have to give PETG a try.

Like others have pointed out, PETG is a good start for printing parts with better properties than PLA, I havent tried ABS but PC is a really tough material if youre looking for something even better, colour options might be limited though.
I made a simple test between Nylon (Left), PETG (Middle) and PC (Right) of a part I made, Nylon and PETG collapsed at approximatly 800kg in the arbor press, I stopped PC at 1000kg and removed it to check, no sign of damage so I continued to approximatly 1300kg when it collapsed, the PC part was roughly 50% stronger in this arbor press test.
You will find difference between manufacturers as well, I tested to bend another PETG part I made with three different manufacturers, I wasnt able to break two of them, the right and the intact piece below them is from the same manufacturer.

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#266 1 year ago

Has anyone tried flame polishing PLA? I printed an ocarina, I'm still learning the printer and tweaking it. It came out decent. There was quite a but of junk left behind from the supports, and the holes were a little messy. I should have taken a picture before sanding. Sanding left it very dull. I used 220. I'm sure finer grits would eventually polish it, but I figured why not try the torch? I'm happy with the result. It was just an experiment, so i didn't go crazy sanding. I kinda wish I did seeing how good it came out. I did burn it a little in one spot. Not unlike flame polishing a ramp, you need to be careful. I really should have documented the tone and tuning before and after. I will need to print another one.

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#267 1 year ago
Quoted from Shredso:

Has anyone tried flame polishing PLA? I printed an ocarina, I'm still learning the printer and tweaking it. It came out decent. There was quite a but of junk left behind from the supports, and the holes were a little messy. I should have taken a picture before sanding. Sanding left it very dull. I used 220. I'm sure finer grits would eventually polish it, but I figured why not try the torch? I'm happy with the result. It was just an experiment, so i didn't go crazy sanding. I kinda wish I did seeing how good it came out. I did burn it a little in one spot. Not unlike flame polishing a ramp, you need to be careful. I really should have documented the tone and tuning before and after. I will need to print another one.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Just a suggestion. Split that model in half at the belly and print in 2 pieces with NO supports vertically and you will have very little to clean up and a simple bond or super glue you will never see the seam. looks good.

#268 1 year ago

Recently did this print. Printed all at once vertically. I’d say Calibrate amd work on your slicer. No supports inside the model or holes. this is right off the printer after snapping off brim and mouthpiece support.

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#269 1 year ago

If anyone has a Star Wars Pro and a 3D printer, you can print out this spaceport mod I uploaded awhile ago to Thingiverse. It mounts right on the plastic ramp above the Tatooine shot.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2846518

spaceport (resized).jpgspaceport model (resized).jpg
#270 1 year ago
Quoted from catboxer:

Recently did this print. Printed all at once vertically. I’d say Calibrate amd work on your slicer. No supports inside the model or holes. this is right off the printer after snapping off brim and mouthpiece support.
[quoted image]

That looks much better than mine, I still have some adjusting to do. Is that the wood filament? That was going to be my next print if I did another ocarina. My son has a decent ocarina and this didn't sound terrible next to it, but there is definitely a difference. I expected the difference to be more noticeable. The top 2 or 3 highest notes didn't work properly on my 3d print. How are your high notes?

#271 1 year ago

Yep, that’s the wood. I sanded it and stained it and wiped on some poly. It finished nicely, but it’s just off key at every note. And yes, the right hand side holes almost do nothing to change the notes. It’s great for mimicking a Morning Dove though!

1 week later
#272 1 year ago

Anyone model out the Williams white post spacer used on most of the WPC games? (this guy for reference: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8371 ) If someone has done it, I wont waste the time. But if not, Ill do it. Shouldn't take more than a few minutes I know, but I don't have one in front of me to measure is all.

5 months later
#273 1 year ago

I bought the BLTouch probably 4 months ago and installation was a failure. I gave up and got too busy to figure it out. Finally got around to tweaking it and it's working great. How about some new ideas of useless pinball crap to print!

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There are 273 posts in this topic. You are on page 6 of 6.

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