Getting my feet wet with 3D printing...

(Topic ID: 222634)

Getting my feet wet with 3D printing...


By pb456

7 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 265 posts
  • 46 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by darkpinball
  • Topic is favorited by 39 Pinsiders

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There are 265 posts in this topic. You are on page 6 of 6.
#251 6 days ago
Quoted from Shredso:

I'm powering my pi this way from the Ender 3 and I get the lightning bolt for under voltage. Voltage measures fine though, any thoughts?
Also, I'd like to see some pics of the lights you did, I've been thinking about adding some for the camera.

Lighting bolt in the Octoprint web gui? I ran a 14 hour print the other day and didn't see anything. I set my voltage to 5.1 just to make sure it was getting a solid 5v.

Here's the thingi file I used. I printed 2 of them and cut 1 to length (overhangs a bit): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2981368

Just buy a strip of 24v 5050 leds add wire length and run those right to the PS down the right hand channel and up into the PS.

#252 5 days ago
Quoted from Shredso:

I'm powering my pi this way from the Ender 3 and I get the lightning bolt for under voltage. Voltage measures fine though, any thoughts?
Also, I'd like to see some pics of the lights you did, I've been thinking about adding some for the camera.

RPis need 2.5 amp power supplies to work consistently. My guess is your stepdown transformer can't put out enough current.

#253 5 days ago
Quoted from Rambo:

RPis need 2.5 amp power supplies to work consistently. My guess is your stepdown transformer can't put out enough current.

amazon.com link »

This is what I bought. It says 3A in the listing. Maybe I will bump it up to 5.1v and see what happens.

#254 5 days ago

Whether or not its worth paying the premium or not, PLA+ is different than regular PLA. It tends to have more bend to it before it breaks than regular PLA. I love esun pla+. Ill pay the $4 or so extra to run that over other high end PLA. You do have to run it about 20* hotter while printing.

#255 5 days ago

I'd like to try printing nylon but I have a few questions. Is it considered abrasive, do I need a hardened nozzle for it? Does anyone have any recommendations for a good brand?

#256 5 days ago
Quoted from latenite04:

I'd like to try printing nylon but I have a few questions. Is it considered abrasive, do I need a hardened nozzle for it? Does anyone have any recommendations for a good brand?

A hardened nozzle is not the issue. To print nylon you Do however need a good continuous filament dryer. I run nylon for 100s of hours and it absorbs moisture in hours unless its bone dry. Drying it will only work for a few hours than its back to the oven to dry again for any part success. I opted for a constant drying system $$$ and all works perfectly.

#257 5 days ago
Quoted from latenite04:

I'd like to try printing nylon but I have a few questions. Is it considered abrasive, do I need a hardened nozzle for it? Does anyone have any recommendations for a good brand?

Have you considered PETG? You'll get the majority of the mechanical benefits of nylon, but is much easier to print with, and isn't as hydrophilic as nylon (won't require constant drying).

I have printed PETG parts in use outside as nozzles for my water feature, and they've withstood sun, heat, cold, constant water pressure, etc. I also use it for brackets that see constant mechanical impacts, and it's never let me down. PETG also tends to be quite a bit cheaper than nylon in most cases.

#258 5 days ago
Quoted from Rambo:

Have you considered PETG? You'll get the majority of the mechanical benefits of nylon, but is much easier to print with, and isn't as hydrophilic as nylon (won't require constant drying).
I have printed PETG parts in use outside as nozzles for my water feature, and they've withstood sun, heat, cold, constant water pressure, etc. I also use it for brackets that see constant mechanical impacts, and it's never let me down. PETG also tends to be quite a bit cheaper than nylon in most cases.

Agreed. To put it bluntly, nylon is a bitch you only deal with if you Have to. lol

#259 5 days ago
Quoted from Shredso:

amazon.com link »
This is what I bought. It says 3A in the listing. Maybe I will bump it up to 5.1v and see what happens.

That looks like the same ones I have. If bumping up the voltage doesn't help, I'd try another one from the pack.

#260 5 days ago

Thanks for all the info. I don't have a specific need for nylon at this point, I was just thinking of trying it to have some experience in case I need it. I have a spare oven to dry it in and an enclosed spool holder with desiccant but it still sounds like a pain so maybe I'll skip it. I didn't realize nylon would need constant drying. I'll have to give PETG a try.

#261 4 days ago
Quoted from pb456:

I've been looking for a 1-3/16" Gottlieb double post STL but have been unable to find it - C17492C is the Gottlieb part number.
I believe I have found a single post, and attached is the SOLIDWORKS file for it - wondering if some hoopty frood out there could make it into the double post?
https://1drv.ms/f/s!AvCqcjWCTr807kUBQOvxWugOLPm6
TIA

of those 2 files, the taller one does not seem correct compared to the new ones I just received and the double post is based on the shorter one. The taller one has the starpost grooves like a Bally post. I will model the double post with the true face facets over the next week.

if you want to view solidwork files and don't have solidworks you can download edrawings by the same company which is a 3d file viewer

#262 4 days ago
Quoted from swinks:

of those 2 files, the taller one does not seem correct compared to the new ones I just received and the double post is based on the shorter one. The taller one has the starpost grooves like a Bally post. I will model the double post with the true face facets over the next week.
if you want to view solidwork files and don't have solidworks you can download edrawings by the same company which is a 3d file viewer

Swinks, I already modeled this for pb456. Pm me your email and I’ll send the files.

Bob

#263 4 days ago
Quoted from BobLangelius:

Swinks, I already modeled this for pb456. Pm me your email and I’ll send the files.
Bob

Here's some of Bob's work. Fan-freaking-tastic.

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#264 4 days ago

Nice. Was it the 1/2” or the 3/8” that worked?

#265 4 days ago
Quoted from latenite04:

Thanks for all the info. I don't have a specific need for nylon at this point, I was just thinking of trying it to have some experience in case I need it. I have a spare oven to dry it in and an enclosed spool holder with desiccant but it still sounds like a pain so maybe I'll skip it. I didn't realize nylon would need constant drying. I'll have to give PETG a try.

Like others have pointed out, PETG is a good start for printing parts with better properties than PLA, I havent tried ABS but PC is a really tough material if youre looking for something even better, colour options might be limited though.
I made a simple test between Nylon (Left), PETG (Middle) and PC (Right) of a part I made, Nylon and PETG collapsed at approximatly 800kg in the arbor press, I stopped PC at 1000kg and removed it to check, no sign of damage so I continued to approximatly 1300kg when it collapsed, the PC part was roughly 50% stronger in this arbor press test.
You will find difference between manufacturers as well, I tested to bend another PETG part I made with three different manufacturers, I wasnt able to break two of them, the right and the intact piece below them is from the same manufacturer.

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