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(Topic ID: 222634)

Getting my feet wet with 3D printing...


By pb456

2 years ago



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  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Shredso
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There are 273 posts in this topic. You are on page 5 of 6.
#201 1 year ago

Those are some good points and food for thought.

I guess if I really wanted to get serious, I'd probably have to spend a lot more money than I care to in order to get the results I want. So, if I want those kind of results, its probably more cost efficient to just have a professional print company print it for me.

#202 1 year ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

Those are some good points and food for thought.
I guess if I really wanted to get serious, I'd probably have to spend a lot more money than I care to in order to get the results I want. So, if I want those kind of results, its probably more cost efficient to just have a professional print company print it for me.

I think you can get very good results with a budget priced 3D printer. It is just that the learning curve may be steeper, and you may have to add some after-market add-ons which typically are not overly expensive.

If you outsource, the printing will be expensive. However, if you only plan on using a printer for a couple to a few items, then outsourcing might very well be your answer. Of course, you can always hit up this thread and I'm sure one of us would offer to print for you at a fair price.

Oops, I just reread your initial post and you already have an Ender 3. Then my question would be what results are you not able to achieve? I'm sure there are Ender 3 forums/groups out there that could probably help you get to where you want to be.

#203 1 year ago

I started off with an MP Select Mini, imo it's a good printer to get your feet wet with 3D printing with minimal investment. It's biggest hang up I found was making sure the bed was level and getting prints to stick. Adding a glass bed made it a lot more usable, but I still had issues with the first layer not sticking.

I sold that machine and bought an Ender3 for the increased print area. The way I see it, is that its lower cost is offset by some of the tweaking that is necessary to get decent prints out of it. Leveling the bed is still an issue, but I picked up a BL touch that I'm going to add to get bed leveling. All the tweaks add time/expense but I consider it part of the hobby.

If I were going to use the machine to produce larger quantities of parts, I would invest in a higher end machine that has all the features that make printing more consistent and simplified. Whether that's worth paying for upfront for someone who is new to 3D printing depends on the comfort level of the individual.

#204 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I think you can get very good results with a budget priced 3D printer. It is just that the learning curve may be steeper, and you may have to add some after-market add-ons which typically are not overly expensive.
If you outsource, the printing will be expensive. However, if you only plan on using a printer for a couple to a few items, then outsourcing might very well be your answer. Of course, you can always hit up this thread and I'm sure one of us would offer to print for you at a fair price.
Oops, I just reread your initial post and you already have an Ender 3. Then my question would be what results are you not able to achieve? I'm sure there are Ender 3 forums/groups out there that could probably help you get to where you want to be.

Here is a sample of a proto-type Palantir stand for LOTR I'm working on. My, goal is to not have it look like it was 3D printed (i.e. no striation lines). I know I can sand and prime and all that. It'd just be nice to print something and not have to mess with smoothing it.

palantir (resized).jpg
#205 1 year ago

I miss my Objet at the university, amazing detail and no layers. Durability isn’t very good, but great for mold making.

There’s such a limitation on these FDM printers, I personally can’t see spending more on them for small and diminishing returns. The ender3 was the first one I saw that hit the nearly disposable 200 dollar price point and delivered what I expect from FDM.

D6A8158E-1C7D-433A-861C-E6EEA4A2819A (resized).jpeg

#206 1 year ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

Here is a sample of a proto-type Palantir stand for LOTR I'm working on. My, goal is to not have it look like it was 3D printed (i.e. no striation lines). I know I can sand and prime and all that. It'd just be nice to print something and not have to mess with smoothing it.
[quoted image]

Looks like you have a decent part you just have to remember with any printer Quality = time + cost. Looking at your radius print and chamfer you are pushing layer height and nozzle diameter to far which = fast but at a cost of quality. Consider using a smaller or variable layer height say .1mm and I suspect most of that would blend much better. I suspect you are also using a .4mm nozzle. Faster but at a cost of quality. Consider trying a .2mm nozzle and see how much it improves. I have printed parts in the .15mm nozzle range at .05mm layer height that finish as a perfect sphere. Along with settings sometimes you have to use the right tool to get the job done to your requirements.

#207 1 year ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Looks like you have a decent part you just have to remember with any printer Quality = time + cost. Looking at your radius print and chamfer you are pushing layer height and nozzle diameter to far which = fast but at a cost of quality. Consider using a smaller or variable layer height say .1mm and I suspect most of that would blend much better. I suspect you are also using a .4mm nozzle. Faster but at a cost of quality. Consider trying a .2mm nozzle and see how much it improves. I have printed parts in the .15mm nozzle range at .05mm layer height that finish as a perfect sphere. Along with settings sometimes you have to use the right tool to get the job done to your requirements.

Yep, I am using a 0.4mm nozzle. I just ordered some 0.2mm. So I'll give that a try and see how the results turn out!

#208 1 year ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

Yep, I am using a 0.4mm nozzle. I just ordered some 0.2mm. So I'll give that a try and see how the results turn out!

Just remember Layer height is the primary definition of surface finish. The smaller nozzle will help but you need to reduce layer height in your slicer. Good Luck!

#209 1 year ago

I would say your part looks really good. FDM printing is layers upon layers. You aren't going to notice a difference in quality going to a prusa to be honest. Set the layer height to something like .8 or 1.2 with your .4 nozzle and see how much nicer it is (and watch the print time increase substantially). Looks like you have most of your settings dialed in pretty well already.

#210 1 year ago
Quoted from BrewNinja:

I would say your part looks really good. FDM printing is layers upon layers. You aren't going to notice a difference in quality going to a prusa to be honest. Set the layer height to something like .8 or 1.2 with your .4 nozzle and see how much nicer it is (and watch the print time increase substantially). Looks like you have most of your settings dialed in pretty well already.

Umm. I think your decimal is the wrong place. At .8 or 1.2 his part would look like Stairs and I am fairly confident would never print with those massive layer heights. lol

#211 1 year ago

Some reactors for Mr Judge Dredd, printed on Ender 3D pro with PLA+ filament:

IMG_20190216_182541419 (resized).jpgIMG_20190216_182604758 (resized).jpgIMG_20190216_182611789 (resized).jpg
#212 1 year ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Umm. I think your decimal is the wrong place. At .8 or 1.2 his part would look like Stairs and I am fairly confident would never print with those massive layer heights. lol

Lol.... That's what I get trying to type on my phone

#213 1 year ago

Ordered just last Thursday and DHL just dropped off this package from Prague! It seems like PRUSA really has manufacturing and logistics worked out for this new product rollout. Lesson learned from the original i3 delays. Good on them!

Now I just need to block out some time for assembly :-/

i3MK3S_Kit (resized).png
#214 1 year ago
Quoted from zombywoof:

Ordered just last Thursday and DHL just dropped off this package from Prague! It seems like PRUSA really has manufacturing and logistics worked out for this new product rollout. Lesson learned from the original i3 delays. Good on them!
Now I just need to block out some time for assembly :-/[quoted image]

Took me about 8 hours to assemble my MK3. Helping a friend do his on Saturday, and hoping to improve my time a little.

#215 1 year ago
Quoted from zombywoof:

Ordered just last Thursday and DHL just dropped off this package from Prague! It seems like PRUSA really has manufacturing and logistics worked out for this new product rollout. Lesson learned from the original i3 delays. Good on them!
Now I just need to block out some time for assembly :-/[quoted image]

First one took me a long time, probably more than the 8 hours quoted. Each one I've done has been faster, but I think around 5 hours is pretty close to the fastest assembly time possible. MAYBE 4, but you'd really have to be moving.

#216 1 year ago

Anyone have experience with the delta kit printers?

#217 1 year ago

Just finished my Octoprint/Rpi setup with LED overhead lights. All powered off the printers 24v with a 5v stepdown for the Pi. One switch for on/off is really nice, maybe I’ll throw it on a Zwave switch to bring it up on demand. It lives in the basement on top of the beer fridge next to BH.

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#218 1 year ago
Quoted from catboxer:

Just finished my Octoprint/Rpi setup with LED overhead lights. All powered off the printers 24v with a 5v stepdown for the Pi. One switch for on/off is really nice, maybe I’ll throw it on a Zwave switch to bring it up on demand. It lives in the basement on top of the beer fridge next to BH.
[quoted image]

Was the 5V stepdown a kit or did you make that yourself? Did you find plans? I don't have it set up with OctoPi yet, just the latest TH3D firmware. Haven't seen the need as of yet to do it, but it has intrigued me to have a vid camera plus potentially faster printing.

#219 1 year ago

It's pretty easy to put together. The power supply has 3 - 24v outputs. You can wire 24V out into an LM2596, and dial that down to 5v before attaching to the PI. You do have to solder on the 24v and 5v USB connections. There are a ton of cases for the LM2596 on Thingiverse, I used some velcro to attach that box just under the power supply in back. For the LEDs, I chose 24V LEDS, so I wired them straight into the PS and drilled a hole in the bottom of the plastic PS case and ran the wires up the channel. Super clean.

The camera feature is cool. It has built in timelapse, and ties right into my Blue Iris home security feeds. The ability to submit jobs from my 2nd floor down to my basement (instead of running SDs) is really great too.

I haven't upgraded the firmware yet, and Octoprint has a huge nag screen telling me my firmware does not have thermal runaway protection (I know!) I'm contemplating upgrading the controller to one with a bootloader. They're only 20 bucks. How easy was it to flash the stock firmware?

#220 1 year ago
Quoted from catboxer:

It's pretty easy to put together. The power supply has 3 - 24v outputs. You can wire 24V out into an LM2596, and dial that down to 5v before attaching to the PI. You do have to solder on the 24v and 5v USB connections. There are a ton of cases for the LM2596 on Thingiverse, I used some velcro to attach that box just under the power supply in back. For the LEDs, I chose 24V LEDS, so I wired them straight into the PS and drilled a hole in the bottom of the plastic PS case and ran the wires up the channel. Super clean.
The camera feature is cool. It has built in timelapse, and ties right into my Blue Iris home security feeds. The ability to submit jobs from my 2nd floor down to my basement (instead of running SDs) is really great too.
I haven't upgraded the firmware yet, and Octoprint has a huge nag screen telling me my firmware does not have thermal runaway protection (I know!) I'm contemplating upgrading the controller to one with a bootloader. They're only 20 bucks. How easy was it to flash the stock firmware?

It was a bit of a !#!$! to update the firmware. First thing to know (helped me to understand the reasons/process as I trudged through it) is that Creality had basically disabled the ability to directly update the firmware. You have to have an Arduino - the Uno is what I used - although others should work. You'll also have to have 'pigtail' leads, both male and female (aka Dupont leads amazon.com link ») to connect between the Arduino and your main board in your Ender 3.

First thing you do is get a laptop, a USB A to Mini B cable (the fashion that was used in last generation cell phones and devices - amazon.com link » ).

Then follow along one of many YT vids on installing the bootloader and then the firmware.

You'll be writing the bootloader code onto the Arduino, and then the firmware from the Arduino through to the Ender 3 main board.

After you've done this, from that point forward, using the Arduino software, you can just run the USB to the Ender 3 and update firmware versions as they come.

I had a heck of a time with my laptop being unable to gain exclusive use of the virtual COM port for the USB cable-Arduino connection. If you had software that gloms onto the port, say Repitier-Host, you'll have to close or disable it. You'll also have to (most likely) install the virtual COM port driver if you're using Windows 7 or lower. Also, you'll have to find out your COM port 'address', through Device Manager - or just by running SYSINFO. (Start menu/type SYSINFO and hit Enter).

I'm writing a novel here thinking you are running Windows. Hope so.

#221 1 year ago

Wow. So that 20 dollar mainboard with the 12v outputs and bootloader is strarting to look pretty good! I think I have an Arduino around here somewhere though...

#222 1 year ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

Anyone have experience with the delta kit printers?

Yes, I do, I have had a Prusa I3MK2, but really they are way overpriced for what you get. Ok, they do print nice but they are put together with tie wraps. Silly for the price.

I have bought a used Anycubic Kossel and bought the electronics from Duet, so the board and a smart effector, together with a normal E3D v6 hotend. Also (and that was crucial) I bought Haydn's magnetic arms. Best upgrade ever. Put in an aluminium heatbed with anycubic Ultrabase.

It prints very good and much quicker than my Prusa did with no noticable decrease in quality.

Delta printer have a bad rep for being difficult to calibrate, but the Duet hardware does it all automatically. Plus it is proper modern hardware with a color touchscreen and wifi built in and 32 bit all controllable from a PC in a webbrowser, nothing like the 8 bit board with the cheap monochrome display that Prusa still uses.

Do not get me wrong: again, the Prusa is a good printer, but hardly worth the money they are costing. I get better results with my 500 dollar delta and it is doing it in style

#223 1 year ago
Quoted from ronaldvg:

Yes, I do, I have had a Prusa I3MK2, but really they are way overpriced for what you get. Ok, they do print nice but they are put together with tie wraps. Silly for the price.
I have bought a used Anycubic Kossel and bought the electronics from Duet, so the board and a smart effector, together with a normal E3D v6 hotend. Also (and that was crucial) I bought Haydn's magnetic arms. Best upgrade ever. Put in an aluminium heatbed with anycubic Ultrabase.
It prints very good and much quicker than my Prusa did with no noticable decrease in quality.
Delta printer have a bad rep for being difficult to calibrate, but the Duet hardware does it all automatically. Plus it is proper modern hardware with a color touchscreen and wifi built in and 32 bit all controllable from a PC in a webbrowser, nothing like the 8 bit board with the cheap monochrome display that Prusa still uses.
Do not get me wrong: again, the Prusa is a good printer, but hardly worth the money they are costing. I get better results with my 500 dollar delta and it is doing it in style

I was actually looking at some of the Kossel models along w/some of the upgrades you mentioned. The auto leveling is an interesting feature. I don't mind tweaking mine, but I think I'm past the manual level part of the hobby. Any experience with the linear option that I see on some of the deltas?

#224 1 year ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

I was actually looking at some of the Kossel models along w/some of the upgrades you mentioned. The auto leveling is an interesting feature. I don't mind tweaking mine, but I think I'm past the manual level part of the hobby. Any experience with the linear option that I see on some of the deltas?

Yes, I have actually two delta's (one of them the smaller Anycubic and one XXL of the makers of the Duet hardware) both with the linear option. But in my opinion that does not contribute that much. A well built carriage system is as good as a linear. Linear even makes a little more noise (I also had a SeemeCNC Rostock Max with carriages, worked very good).

Keep in mind that the system should be as rigid as possible, so as little movement as possible that is not wanted. In that regard I love Haydn's magnetic arms for a Delta. They are very strong but also very smooth, so no slack at all in the system. Also keep the belts tensioned. Oh and never use the belt tensioners that clip on to the belts as they make the whole belt a sort of spring, not what you want.

#225 1 year ago
Quoted from catboxer:

How easy was it to flash the stock firmware?

Its not that hard to flash. It takes a few minutes. Look for the "Teaching Tech" ender 3 flashing video. He talks about everything you need to do, and how to edit Marlin for the settings you need. Especially if you already have an arduino sitting around, it takes a few minutes. Easy peasy.

#226 1 year ago
Quoted from ronaldvg:

Do not get me wrong: again, the Prusa is a good printer, but hardly worth the money they are costing. I get better results with my 500 dollar delta and it is doing it in style

I don't know about the MK2 you have, but another benefit is the MK3 and MK3/S are as close to silent as anything I've seen without an enclosure. The Ender, for example is extremely loud compared to the i3MK3.

#227 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

I don't know about the MK2 you have, but another benefit is the MK3 and MK3/S are as close to silent as anything I've seen without an enclosure. The Ender, for example is extremely loud compared to the i3MK3.

I had the MK2, sold it. And the Duet hardware uses the even more silent trinamic drivers so that the motors make no noise at all. Only thing you hear is the fans. If you change those out with noctua 40mm fans, the printer becomes very silent.

By the way, you can change the motor drivers in an Ender to more silent drivers that also can take more current for about 9 dollar. No soldering.

edit: added some pictures

20190308_202615 (resized).jpg20190308_202652 (resized).jpg
#228 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

The Ender, for example is extremely loud compared to the i3MK3.

Which is why I banished it to the basement where it can make all the loud Space Invaders sounds it wants.

#229 1 year ago
Quoted from ronaldvg:

Yes, I have actually two delta's (one of them the smaller Anycubic and one XXL of the makers of the Duet hardware) both with the linear option. But in my opinion that does not contribute that much. A well built carriage system is as good as a linear. Linear even makes a little more noise (I also had a SeemeCNC Rostock Max with carriages, worked very good).
Keep in mind that the system should be as rigid as possible, so as little movement as possible that is not wanted. In that regard I love Haydn's magnetic arms for a Delta. They are very strong but also very smooth, so no slack at all in the system. Also keep the belts tensioned. Oh and never use the belt tensioners that clip on to the belts as they make the whole belt a sort of spring, not what you want.

Thanks for the comments ron, much appreciated!

#230 1 year ago

Anyone find an STL model of the double Gottlieb post? If so, would appreciate a link. TIA!

#231 1 year ago

Oooo... 3D printing, my specialty! I have a Prusa MK2, but I have the "MK2.5" upgrade kit in a box, I just haven't gotten around to upgrading it yet.

While the Prusa is expensive, it's hands down the best FDM printer I've used for the money, and I'd say it's better value than far more expensive competitors like the Lulzbot Taz or the Ultimaker machines, which I use at work. Don't even get me started on MakerBot...

PLA really isn't ideal for high impact environments like posts and such for pinball machines. It's probably fine for various toys and decor out of the line of fire, but for parts that take a beating, I recommend printing with ABS or even better, nylon.

My go-to print material is PETG, which prints just about as easily as PLA, but is far stronger (same plastic as soft drink bottles). However, in printed form, it's relatively brittle, so a more flexible material like ABS or nylon should hold up in a pinball environment a lot better.

If anyone needs something printed or reverse-engineered, I'd be happy to either make you a CAD file, print a part, or both. I use Fusion 360 at home, so I could either sent you the raw Fusion file to mess with later, or just the STL to send to your printer.

#232 1 year ago
Quoted from Rambo:

Oooo... 3D printing, my specialty! I have a Prusa MK2, but I have the "MK2.5" upgrade kit in a box, I just haven't gotten around to upgrading it yet.
While the Prusa is expensive, it's hands down the best FDM printer I've used for the money, and I'd say it's better value than far more expensive competitors like the Lulzbot Taz or the Ultimaker machines, which I use at work. Don't even get me started on MakerBot...
PLA really isn't ideal for high impact environments like posts and such for pinball machines. It's probably fine for various toys and decor out of the line of fire, but for parts that take a beating, I recommend printing with ABS or even better, nylon.
My go-to print material is PETG, which prints just about as easily as PLA, but is far stronger (same plastic as soft drink bottles). However, in printed form, it's relatively brittle, so a more flexible material like ABS or nylon should hold up in a pinball environment a lot better.
If anyone needs something printed or reverse-engineered, I'd be happy to either make you a CAD file, print a part, or both. I use Fusion 360 at home, so I could either sent you the raw Fusion file to mess with later, or just the STL to send to your printer.

I've been looking for a 1-3/16" Gottlieb double post STL but have been unable to find it - C17492C is the Gottlieb part number.

I believe I have found a single post, and attached is the SOLIDWORKS file for it - wondering if some hoopty frood out there could make it into the double post?

https://1drv.ms/f/s!AvCqcjWCTr807kUBQOvxWugOLPm6

TIA

#233 1 year ago

Not sure about the Hoopty Frood... Is that an Alaska thing? Is that what happens when you spend too much time in that Airport in Anchorage? Man that wood Panelling! brings you right back to 1977...

Well anyway, I can't pull down that file, but if you can email it to me ( pm for email) i'm pretty sure i can double it up. As long as it's not newer than Solidiworks 2015. also would need you to tell me the Center to Center on the post holes.

Regards,
Bob

#234 1 year ago

I ended up buying a Gottlieb the 2 different single posts and a twin post from RTBB and will model up when I get the posts and make it available

#235 1 year ago
Quoted from ronaldvg:

I had the MK2, sold it. And the Duet hardware uses the even more silent trinamic drivers so that the motors make no noise at all. Only thing you hear is the fans. If you change those out with noctua 40mm fans, the printer becomes very silent.
By the way, you can change the motor drivers in an Ender to more silent drivers that also can take more current for about 9 dollar. No soldering.
edit: added some pictures
[quoted image][quoted image]

ronaldvg where did you get the effector bracket that the magnetic ball joints bolt onto, would like that kit

#236 1 year ago
Quoted from swinks:

ronaldvg where did you get the effector bracket that the magnetic ball joints bolt onto, would like that kit

Hi, it is the smart effector from Duet3d. That little PCB has for every wire a connector and also it is used as the sensor to do the calibration. It also has leds on the bottom so it lights up the print area.

https://www.duet3d.com/DeltaSmartEffector

#237 1 year ago

thanks for that, much appreciated

#238 1 year ago
Quoted from pb456:

I've been looking for a 1-3/16" Gottlieb double post STL but have been unable to find it - C17492C is the Gottlieb part number.
I believe I have found a single post, and attached is the SOLIDWORKS file for it
TIA

I wouldn't call myself a hoopy frood, but I can take a swing at it. What is the hole spacing between the posts? I used 0.5" for now, but can change it.
I couldn't get the faceted post to open in Fusion 360, but I did get the star post to work, and made this.

I uploaded the draft file here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3486130

The STL file is there, as well as a STEP file for editing in other programs.
Facetted post (resized).jpg

#239 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Tantrum, do you have any experience with the newer metal-embedded filaments? Are they mainly just for show, or do they exhibit higher tensile strength than regular filament?

I do. They're purely decorative, and take a ton of post-processing work (like tumbling or bead blasting) to actually look good.

It's just PLA with metal dust in it. It's hard on your nozzle (I ruined two steel nozzles trying to get CopperFill to work on my printer), the print quality isn't great (lots of stringing for me, which never happens on normal PLA), and it's no stronger (actually probably weaker) than pure PLA.

For a metallic look, you're better off spray painting your part, IMO.

If anyone wants a roll of CopperFill for free, you're welcome to PM me for it, just pay shipping. It's this stuff: https://www.matterhackers.com/store/3d-printer-filament/colorfabb-copperfill-metal-filament-1.75mm-075-kg

I only used for a couple of Benchys, before swearing I'll never touch the metal fill materials again.

#240 1 year ago
Quoted from Rambo:

I do. They're purely decorative, and take a ton of post-processing work (like tumbling or bead blasting) to actually look good.
It's just PLA with metal dust in it. It's hard on your nozzle (I ruined two steel nozzles trying to get CopperFill to work on my printer), the print quality isn't great (lots of stringing for me, which never happens on normal PLA), and it's no stronger (actually probably weaker) than pure PLA.
For a metallic look, you're better off spray painting your part, IMO.
If anyone wants a roll of CopperFill for free, you're welcome to PM me for it, just pay shipping. It's this stuff: https://www.matterhackers.com/store/3d-printer-filament/colorfabb-copperfill-metal-filament-1.75mm-075-kg
I only used for a couple of Benchys, before swearing I'll never touch the metal fill materials again.

I am really tempted, but I don’t have a way to post-process and I would need to buy a ruby tipped nozzle. Very generous of you, however.

#241 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I am really tempted, but I don’t have a way to post-process and I would need to buy a ruby tipped nozzle. Very generous of you, however.

Honestly, even the hardened steel nozzles jammed with it, so for just playing around, you're better off running a cheap brass nozzle until it jams, then toss it.
Ruby nozzles aren't worth it unless you solely print in highly-abrasive materials, and have a robust cleaning method for keeping them clear.

Steel wool was the most effective way of post-processing the metal materials I found. I did try tumbling them in brass polishing media, and it didn't do much.

#242 1 year ago

PLA should be fine for printing posts. The ball only hits the rubber, and if you print the post massive with 100% infill it would last forever.
I tried both PLA and ABS for posts in my AFM rebuild, and they are all fine. Would not even know any more which is which.
Avoid POSTS designs that are hollow inside. The extra material cost printing it massive is minimal and it makes the post so much stronger. It also gives a larger area where the post touches the playfield, resulting in much less risk of damaging the clear on heavy impacted posts.

#243 1 year ago
Quoted from DDDwingmaster:

PLA should be fine for printing posts. The ball only hits the rubber, and if you print the post massive with 100% infill it would last forever.
I tried both PLA and ABS for posts in my AFM rebuild, and they are all fine. Would not even know any more which is which.
Avoid POSTS designs that are hollow inside. The extra material cost printing it massive is minimal and it makes the post so much stronger. It also gives a larger area where the post touches the playfield, resulting in much less risk of damaging the clear on heavy impacted posts.

Would PLA+ be a better option? I just print as a hobby, so no means an expert like some of the guys here that print as a part of their career. I've read where people think PLA+ is stronger, but it sounds like the + is just somewhat more flexible, giving people the wrong impression since it has more 'give'. If so, would PLA+ be a better way to go? Just curious.

#244 1 year ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

Would PLA+ be a better option? I just print as a hobby, so no means an expert like some of the guys here that print as a part of their career. I've read where people think PLA+ is stronger, but it sounds like the + is just somewhat more flexible, giving people the wrong impression since it has more 'give'. If so, would PLA+ be a better way to go? Just curious.

PLA is PLA. I'm not all that impressed with PLA+, especially for the cost bump. If you want strength, nylon is it IMO.

#245 1 year ago

I disagree with this. You get what you pay for in my experience. Depending on what you're doing it may or may not matter of course. But say Amazon Basics vs Prusa filament? Definite difference.

For strength without a hassle printing I'd look into PETG. That's going to become more and more common imo.

#246 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

PLA is PLA. I'm not all that impressed with PLA+, especially for the cost bump. If you want strength, nylon is it IMO.

I disagree with this. Different brands of PLA have different characteristics, and some are poor quality compared to others. Prusa, 3D Solutech, and Hatchbox are what I prefer, but I’ve gone through my share of poorer quality PLA. Bad coloring, inconsistent coloring, inconsistent diameter, tangling on the spool, various print issues, etc.

#247 1 year ago
Quoted from Aurich:

I disagree with this. You get what you pay for in my experience. Depending on what you're doing it may or may not matter of course. But say Amazon Basics vs Prusa filament? Definite difference.
For strength without a hassle printing I'd look into PETG. That's going to become more and more common imo.

the issue with Amazon Basics is just the inconsistency - I bought the sample pack and a couple other rolls, and some of the filaments printed amazingly well, and some were just total trash. Similar colors, too - no QC I guess

#248 1 year ago
Quoted from Aurich:

I disagree with this. You get what you pay for in my experience. Depending on what you're doing it may or may not matter of course. But say Amazon Basics vs Prusa filament? Definite difference.
For strength without a hassle printing I'd look into PETG. That's going to become more and more common imo.

I was talking about PLA vs PLA+, not PLA vs PLA. Amazon Basics is super uneven quality, and some other no-names are outright junk. I only use Amazon Basics (I got a ton of at an auction) for junk prints on early prototypes. It has a tendency to jam nozzles sometimes.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I disagree with this. Different brands of PLA have different characteristics, and some are poor quality compared to others. Prusa, 3D Solutech, and Hatchbox are what I prefer, but I’ve gone through my share of poorer quality PLA. Bad coloring, inconsistent coloring, inconsistent diameter, tangling on the spool, various print issues, etc.

Like I said, I was only talking about PLA vs PLA+. Within regular PLA there is a wide variance in quality and consistency even within the same brand and color on the low end of pricing.

#249 1 year ago
Quoted from catboxer:

Just finished my Octoprint/Rpi setup with LED overhead lights. All powered off the printers 24v with a 5v stepdown for the Pi. One switch for on/off is really nice, maybe I’ll throw it on a Zwave switch to bring it up on demand. It lives in the basement on top of the beer fridge next to BH.
[quoted image]

I'm powering my pi this way from the Ender 3 and I get the lightning bolt for under voltage. Voltage measures fine though, any thoughts?

Also, I'd like to see some pics of the lights you did, I've been thinking about adding some for the camera.

#250 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

I was talking about PLA vs PLA+, not PLA vs PLA. Amazon Basics is super uneven quality, and some other no-names are outright junk. I only use Amazon Basics (I got a ton of at an auction) for junk prints on early prototypes. It has a tendency to jam nozzles sometimes.

Like I said, I was only talking about PLA vs PLA+. Within regular PLA there is a wide variance in quality and consistency even within the same brand and color on the low end of pricing.

Fair enough, sorry about the misunderstanding.

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