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(Topic ID: 222634)

Getting my feet wet with 3D printing...


By pb456

2 years ago



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  • 273 posts
  • 47 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Shredso
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There are 273 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 6.
#101 1 year ago

Desktop metal. FYI. They are making functional 3D printed metal parts.

#102 1 year ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Actually...... You can print 100% metal in Any shape to micron level for some time now. I rep with EOS systems which can print in Any metal to exact certs from titanium to general metals. Part is as if you machined it to the same specs. Granted you need close to 1 million to get started..... lol
https://www.eos.info/en

Will they do lay-away?

#103 1 year ago

Got the Gottlieb drop targets dialed in finally.

IMG_0436 (resized).JPGIMG_0437 (resized).JPG

100 pct infill, three outer layers, 1 skirt layer. Simplify 3D slicer, Ender 3.

#104 1 year ago
Quoted from pb456:

Got the Gottlieb drop targets dialed in finally.
[quoted image][quoted image]
100 pct infill, three outer layers, 1 skirt layer. Simplify 3D slicer, Ender 3.

Those look good, would you mind sharing the file for those? I would love to try back lighting some translucent red ones in my mushroom world.

#105 1 year ago

Those Gottliebs are very similar to the ultra hard to find GamePlan drops. I would like to see someone make a model for them.

#106 1 year ago
Quoted from pb456:

Got the Gottlieb drop targets dialed in finally.
[quoted image][quoted image]
100 pct infill, three outer layers, 1 skirt layer. Simplify 3D slicer, Ender 3.

Are those PETG? I don't think PLA will hold up to the hits.

#107 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

Are those PETG? I don't think PLA will hold up to the hits.

The PLA (100pct infill) will absolutely hold up to the hits. Even more so if you 'bake it'. I have some in Gladiators.

Here's the file:

https://1drv.ms/f/s!AvCqcjWCTr807kUBQOvxWugOLPm6

#108 1 year ago
Quoted from pb456:

The PLA (100pct infill) will absolutely hold up to the hits. Even more so if you 'bake it'. I have some in Gladiators.
Here's the file:
https://1drv.ms/f/s!AvCqcjWCTr807kUBQOvxWugOLPm6

That's great real-world testing, then. I didn't think PLA would stand up.

#109 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

That's great real-world testing, then. I didn't think PLA would stand up.

Believe me, I ran through probably a dozen test prints before I got to this point.

I used Hatchbox PLA, nothing fancy, and from what I've seen, you can increase PLA strength to a point much higher than ABS by 'baking' it post-print.

Perhaps 40pct plus increase in strength. Print 100pct infill, I used three outer layers, triangular fill.... I can send my Simplify 3D profile over also. As a matter of fact, I'll put it on my Onedrive share, above. I'm open to suggestions as I'm just stumbling around sometimes with 3D printing - someone out there can perhaps refine my settings.

#110 1 year ago
Quoted from pb456:

The PLA (100pct infill) will absolutely hold up to the hits. Even more so if you 'bake it'. I have some in Gladiators.
Here's the file:
https://1drv.ms/f/s!AvCqcjWCTr807kUBQOvxWugOLPm6

Thanks for the files. I wanted to keep the look of the original decal so I modeled a brick pattern on the target face. I think they came out well.

20190120_233759 (resized).jpg

#111 1 year ago

Slick! Did you hand paint or change the filament?

#112 1 year ago

It's painted. There's a recess where it's black so I just had to add a few drops of paint to flood it.

2 weeks later
#113 1 year ago

Tired of paying a premium for Bally backbox lamp shields, so I printed my own.

IMG_2562[1] (resized).JPGNYRV5798[1] (resized).JPGUGHS2240[1] (resized).JPG
#114 1 year ago

Is anyone willing to model and print some Data East speaker panel hooks? These are the plastic hooks that slip into the speaker panel for securing behind the vertical wooden pillars. I can’t find these anywhere.

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#115 1 year ago
Quoted from Crash:

Is anyone willing to model and print some Data East speaker panel hooks? These are the plastic hooks that slip into the speaker panel for securing behind the vertical wooden pillars. I can’t find these anywhere.
[quoted image]

Can you provide measurements, angles, screw hole size & position, etc.? If I had a DE I could easily do it. Other option would be to send one you have to me and I can then replicate and send back.

#116 1 year ago
Quoted from Crash:

Is anyone willing to model and print some Data East speaker panel hooks? These are the plastic hooks that slip into the speaker panel for securing behind the vertical wooden pillars. I can’t find these anywhere.
[quoted image]

Is this the part you are looking for?
https://www.pinballlife.com/data-east-speaker-panel-clip-3d-printed.html

#117 1 year ago

Oh wow, yeah that's it. It must have been added recently because I definitely didn't find any the last time I checked. Thanks a lot!

#118 1 year ago
Quoted from yfz450:

Tired of paying a premium for Bally backbox lamp shields, so I printed my own.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

yeah I started that way as well back in 2013/2014, but found after a while the home printed gear would start to warp due to bulb heat (not led so much), so I put them up at Shapeways a number of years ago as the nylon printed gear is solid filled and has performed better.

https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?type=product&q=swinksshroud

#119 1 year ago

Since my last post:

1. Got a Creality Ender 3
2. Raised the temp from 200 to 220, in according to the box of filament.
3. Slowed down the print speed

So far, prints that went bad have vastly improved. Nice & smooth. Went with a "raft" instead of a skirt, and now the print doesn't move around in the later layers.

Some lessons were learned after some failed prints & reading some advice after trying to print a spinner knob.

#120 1 year ago
Quoted from swinks:

yeah I started that way as well back in 2013/2014, but found after a while the home printed gear would start to warp due to bulb heat (not led so much), so I put them up at Shapeways a number of years ago as the nylon printed gear is solid filled and has performed better.
https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?type=product&q=swinksshroud

It has nothing to do with being home printed, rather (as you alluded) to, the filament type used. Most people use PLA which has a relatively low softening temperature. this is fine for pinball parts usually, as long as they are not close to or enclose incandescent bulbs (typically not an issue with LEDs). If you want something with a higher softening temperature, then PET/PETG is the next option, followed by ABS which is the same stuff that LEGOs are made of and very durable (people use ABS to make parts for interiors of cars, guns, etc. that must be able to endure high temps).

Just use the right material for the job, and you can do create just about anything you need on your home 3D printer (you can even print with nylon filament on many models).

#121 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

It has nothing to do with being home printed, rather (as you alluded) to, the filament type used. Most people use PLA which has a relatively low softening temperature. this is fine for pinball parts usually, as long as they are not close to or enclose incandescent bulbs (typically not an issue with LEDs). If you want something with a higher softening temperature, then PET/PETG is the next option, followed by ABS which is the same stuff that LEGOs are made of and very durable (people use ABS to make parts for interiors of cars, guns, etc. that must be able to endure high temps).
Just use the right material for the job, and you can do create just about anything you need on your home 3D printer (you can even print with nylon filament on many models).

Tantrum, do you have any experience with the newer metal-embedded filaments? Are they mainly just for show, or do they exhibit higher tensile strength than regular filament?

#122 1 year ago

No, I don’t. Carbon fiber, wood, metal, etc. that are usable on home 3D printers are quite abrasive. There is a ruby tipped nozzle that works well with these, but I haven’t spent the $100 yet to try since I haven’t had an application where I needed it yet.

#123 1 year ago
Quoted from s1500:

Since my last post:
1. Got a Creality Ender 3
2. Raised the temp from 200 to 220, in according to the box of filament.
3. Slowed down the print speed
So far, prints that went bad have vastly improved. Nice & smooth. Went with a "raft" instead of a skirt, and now the print doesn't move around in the later layers.
Some lessons were learned after some failed prints & reading some advice after trying to print a spinner knob.

I realize it's not a huge deal to cut off the raft, but I got tired of that. So, I've been using some spray adhesive that has been working great:
amazon.com link »

#124 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Tantrum, do you have any experience with the newer metal-embedded filaments? Are they mainly just for show, or do they exhibit higher tensile strength than regular filament?

We have done much experimenting with every type of filament from rubber to nylon and the metal based options are more for esthetics over function. Really doesn't add any strength or value other then they are slightly magnetic. Simple to experiment with you really don't need any expensive setup to use them. A simple low cost hardened nozzle ($9) works for hundreds of parts.

#125 1 year ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

I realize it's not a huge deal to cut off the raft, but I got tired of that. So, I've been using some spray adhesive that has been working great:
amazon.com link »

Trust this suggestion as we have used EVERY bonding option from glass to glue. Add PEI sheet to your bed and be done with glue forever on All print materials. Great surface finish and no more cleaning goo off every dam part and machine. Best $20 you will ever spend. We have printed Thousands of parts on our Raise3D Pro machines with the same sheet. Priceless in my opinion.

#126 1 year ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Trust this suggestion as we have used EVERY bonding option from glass to glue. Add PEI sheet to your bed and be done with glue forever on All print materials. Great surface finish and no more cleaning goo off every dam part and machine. Best $20 you will ever spend. We have printed Thousands of parts on our Raise3D Pro machines with the same sheet. Priceless in my opinion.

Yes, the PEI sheet in the flex steel on my Prusa is awesome. I never use a raft. Clean with 90% alcohol between prints, and an occasional cleaning with acetone, and I’m golden. You do have to use a release agent (ie gluestick) on some materials such as PET or the will damage the PET.

#127 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Yes, the PEI sheet in the flex steel on my Prusa is awesome. I never use a raft. Clean with 90% alcohol between prints, and an occasional cleaning with acetone, and I’m golden. You do have to use a release agent (ie gluestick) on some materials such as PET or the will damage the PET.

Yes and no. With PETG and PET you simply need to slightly raise your first layer offset. As for reconditioning, every hundred prints a Light sanding with 800 grit sandpaper and alcohol clean and it new again.

#128 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Tantrum, do you have any experience with the newer metal-embedded filaments? Are they mainly just for show, or do they exhibit higher tensile strength than regular filament?

Definitely not as strong. Additives like that just make the material more brittle. Some look pretty cool though.

#129 1 year ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

...Add PEI sheet to your bed and be done with glue forever on All print materials....

How does this compare to glass? I have glass, but it's more for getting a level surface on my Anet (cheapie kit) than anything else. Really haven't been using anything on the glass, but I just print PLA and PLA+

#130 1 year ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

How does this compare to glass? I have glass, but it's more for getting a level surface on my Anet (cheapie kit) than anything else. Really haven't been using anything on the glass, but I just print PLA and PLA+

Some swear by glass, but I think it is a pain in the backside. In my experience, you have to always use glue stick which means lots of cleaning up after prints, or you go the hairspray route which takes a lot of time and again involves clean up. However, if you need a smooth surface to your model and/or your printer doesn't create easily detachable/clean rafts, then it can be a better option than default.

#131 1 year ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

Definitely not as strong. Additives like that just make the material more brittle. Some look pretty cool though.

In my mind you use them not for strength but for appearance. Have you seen polished bronze filament or painted wood/bamboo filament? You can create some really nice looking models with these materials.

#132 1 year ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

How does this compare to glass? I have glass, but it's more for getting a level surface on my Anet (cheapie kit) than anything else. Really haven't been using anything on the glass, but I just print PLA and PLA+

PEI sheet takes 5 minutes to bond to your build plate with the provided 3M adhesive sheet. It gives virtually the Same smooth base finish as glass only with No need for glue sticks or bonding agents. Plus unlike glass it is thin enough to transfer build plate temps quickly and evenly. Plus you can cut larger sheets to size easily if your budget conscience. You don’t need flex plates or any of fancy plate add ons. Watch some YouTube vids on install and you will never look back. Stop washing glass and make parts!

amazon.com link »

And the only time I use a raft is if I want to waste time or filament. Have yet to find a part that needs a raft unless your setup is wrong.

#133 1 year ago

The wood infused PLA from Hatchbox is really nice.

55DC9D10-551D-468C-88D7-E8A6A22001C6 (resized).jpeg
#134 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Have you seen polished bronze filament or painted wood/bamboo filament? You can create some really nice looking models with these materials.

Yeah, I tried some bronze filament. Wasn’t really impressed with it. It was OK, but I think you can get better results by painting another filament.

#135 1 year ago

I don't know anything about 3D printing.... Can you make an arcade joystick controller like.used on the older Mad Planets arcade game? It seems it's hard to come by...

#136 1 year ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

Yeah, I tried some bronze filament. Wasn’t really impressed with it. It was OK, but I think you can get better results by painting another filament.

Did you polish it after print? This is the only way to make it look like real bronze, otherwise it just kind looks like clay.

B07A0036-F35B-491E-995C-3B49C160C0CC.png
#137 1 year ago
Quoted from bayoubilly70:

I don't know anything about 3D printing.... Can you make an arcade joystick controller like.used on the older Mad Planets arcade game? It seems it's hard to come by...

You'd have to use a real strong filament to do it, like PETG or ABS plastic (a lot of printing is done with the weaker stuff, called PLA, which would not work), but as long as it wasn't abused too much, it would probably work. Although the Mad Planets joystick, isn't that fairly similar to the one used in Tron or Gorf? You could just get one of those, or a recent replica

#138 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Some swear by glass, but I think it is a pain in the backside. In my experience, you have to always use glue stick which means lots of cleaning up after prints, or you go the hairspray route which takes a lot of time and again involves clean up. However, if you need a smooth surface to your model and/or your printer doesn't create easily detachable/clean rafts, then it can be a better option than default.

I use glass (mirror tile actually) and hairspray. Not sure how it involves lots of time. When things stop sticking (and if I spread small things around on the build plate, this is a long time), I wash it with some soap and water in the sink, then take the 5 seconds to put on some more hairspray. Then start over. Not hard at all. And since I got a 6 pack of mirror tiles for like $10, I can go a LONG time between cleanings.

#139 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Did you polish it after print? This is the only way to make it look like real bronze, otherwise it just kind looks like clay.[quoted image]

To get that look they are tumbling the print in brass screws for many hours. It’s not really polishing... it’s adding brass from the screws. If you actually try polishing it like real metal, it doesn’t look anything like that.
I had issues with it clogging up my extruder, so I never got a complete print out of it anyway.... If you want a sample of it to try out, just send me your address.

#140 1 year ago

Has anyone tried polishing PLA in corn cob or walnut media? I might have to try that with my pinball parts tumbler.

#141 1 year ago
Quoted from catboxer:

Has anyone tried polishing PLA in corn cob or walnut media? I might have to try that with my pinball parts tumbler.

Trust me. Doesn't work. Tried and failed all attempts. Basically all you get is a really dirty looking part as all the media just packs in all the layer lines. Not many options to polish PLA other then some of the secondary spray coatings.

#142 1 year ago
Quoted from BrewNinja:

I use glass (mirror tile actually) and hairspray. Not sure how it involves lots of time. When things stop sticking (and if I spread small things around on the build plate, this is a long time), I wash it with some soap and water in the sink, then take the 5 seconds to put on some more hairspray. Then start over. Not hard at all. And since I got a 6 pack of mirror tiles for like $10, I can go a LONG time between cleanings.

Exactly the same here. Very quick and easy.

#143 1 year ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Trust me. Doesn't work. Tried and failed all attempts. Basically all you get is a really dirty looking part as all the media just packs in all the layer lines. Not many options to polish PLA other then some of the secondary spray coatings.

Thanks for the info! I’ve had decent results with sanding, priming, sanding, and painting. Thankfully I don’t usual print anything that requires a finished look.

#144 1 year ago
Quoted from catboxer:

Thanks for the info! I’ve had decent results with sanding, priming, sanding, and painting. Thankfully I don’t usual print anything that requires a finished look.

IF you really need a smooth perfect part you could always switch over to ABS and try Vapor smoothing. (YouTube it). A bit dangerous if done wrong but the results are rather incredible if you perfect the setup and time. Good Luck!

#145 1 year ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

IF you really need a smooth perfect part you could always switch over to ABS and try Vapor smoothing. (YouTube it). A bit dangerous if done wrong but the results are rather incredible if you perfect the setup and time. Good Luck!

No more ABS...
My recommendation is Polysmooth.

https://eu.polymaker.com/product/polysmooth/

#146 1 year ago
Quoted from Davi:

No more ABS...
My recommendation is Polysmooth.
https://eu.polymaker.com/product/polysmooth/

Man, at over 2x the price of ABS from reputable brands, that stuff better be infused with unicorn bone dust or something.

#147 1 year ago
Quoted from catboxer:

Thanks for the info! I’ve had decent results with sanding, priming, sanding, and painting. Thankfully I don’t usual print anything that requires a finished look.

Look into Filler Primer, if you haven’t already - it’s a thicker paint which does a much better job filling in gaps, especially where the print has underextruded. I just finished a Master Sword from Legend of Zelda for my son, and it had some pits from underextrusion. After maybe 30 minutes sanding and 2 coats of the primer it looks like it was pulled from the blacksmith’s forge just this morning. Stuff works amazingly

#148 1 year ago
Quoted from Davi:

No more ABS...
My recommendation is Polysmooth.
https://eu.polymaker.com/product/polysmooth/

Just use caution, that company and virtually all of it's products have been out of stock for a Long time. The vendors say they are circling the drain sadly.

#149 1 year ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

How does this compare to glass? I have glass, but it's more for getting a level surface on my Anet (cheapie kit) than anything else. Really haven't been using anything on the glass, but I just print PLA and PLA+

I use a glass bed on my Ender 3, Tevo Flash, and Geetech A20M. Just glass, no glue stick, no hair spray, none of that. The technique I use is to get a little closer to the bed for better 'squish' (adhesion from the hot PLA to the bed), and to clean very well with denatured alcohol every two or three prints.

Another thing I use is first layer, I have the fans turned off, print at about 209 usually depending on PLA type, slow it way down on the first layer, and don't engage the fans until the second layer and only at 40%, third layer at 60% and fourth and higher layers at 60%. I've eliminated 'stringing', too strong of a bed adhesion, and most clogs - but I've found that some filaments require more tweaking. I use Simplify 3D almost exclusively (sometimes I use Cura when I'm lazy and don't want to walk back into the office to slice!).

#150 1 year ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

To get that look they are tumbling the print in brass screws for many hours. It’s not really polishing... it’s adding brass from the screws. If you actually try polishing it like real metal, it doesn’t look anything like that.
I had issues with it clogging up my extruder, so I never got a complete print out of it anyway.... If you want a sample of it to try out, just send me your address.

I printed a bunch of wine charms for a party we were hosting (each charm had the person's initials in it). I used Colorfab brassfill and sanded it all the way down to 1500 grit. They came out very shiny and were nice and heavy so that you really couldn't tell they weren't polished bronze. I tried tumbler with walnut, and various brass polishes hoping to expedite the process. Unfortunately, lots of elbow grease was the only thing that worked for me.

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