Getting my feet wet with 3D printing...

(Topic ID: 222634)

Getting my feet wet with 3D printing...


By pb456

4 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 42 posts
  • 15 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 38 days ago by mbwalker
  • Topic is favorited by 10 Pinsiders

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#1 4 months ago

So, I found a 3D model for Williams Drop target guides.

Printed them with my new fancy Tevo Mikey 3D printer.

They work great in PLA.

I don't have a scanner, so am being pushed to either build models or get a 3D scanning service to build a model.

Are there 3D models for other pinball parts somewhere on Pinside or other that I could try to reproduce?

Thanks!

#2 4 months ago

There's some pinball parts modeled on thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=pinball&dwh=305b68a784d387b

#3 4 months ago

Give Autodesk Fushion 360 a try. It's free and after a few video lessons on YouTube you'll be creating in no time.

#4 4 months ago

Anyone got a file for keeping target switches upright?

1 month later
#5 3 months ago

pb456 Do you have X-box 360? You could use it for 3D scanning easy, there are a lot of tutorials on YouTube. From my personal experience best scans can be obtained with this software (I used 30days trial version). Or you can try to build a 3D model with Autodesk Fusion or FreeCAD for example.

1 week later
#6 81 days ago
Quoted from Kneissl:

Anyone got a file for keeping target switches upright?

Do you mean the guides for Williams drop targets?

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2792174

#7 79 days ago

If its something you can hand measure and relay the info up here i can draw it in solidworks for you.

#8 78 days ago
Quoted from LongsdaleX:

pb456 Do you have X-box 360? You could use it for 3D scanning easy, there are a lot of tutorials on YouTube. From my personal experience best scans can be obtained with this software (I used 30days trial version). Or you can try to build a 3D model with Autodesk Fusion or FreeCAD for example.

No joke. I have to try this. Thanks for the tip!

#9 78 days ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

If its something you can hand measure and relay the info up here i can draw it in solidworks for you.

Thank you - I haven't done really anything substantive with any CAD software outside of the Microsoft 3D builder. My daughter has more experience in that than I have!!

With an STL file - a pre-made model of say, lane guides - would it be easier to start with that or to do a new model?

I ask as some of the Williams lane guides on ThingVerse are really cruddy, not accurate and could use some tweaking. I was thinking of that and possibly some plastics. Some of the posts are close but not quite there.

Would it be easier for someone with Fusion or Solidworks skill to redo those?

#10 75 days ago

I'd love to see some 3D printed pop bumper caps for Blackout!

#12 75 days ago

Any ideas on how to convert the SLDPRT to an STL? Or SLDPRT import into Fusion 360 or other?

#13 75 days ago

Just need to resave it in solid works. Pm me and you can get my email. Email me the SW part file and I can resale it if that helps you.

#14 75 days ago
Quoted from pb456:

Thank you - I haven't done really anything substantive with any CAD software outside of the Microsoft 3D builder. My daughter has more experience in that than I have!!
With an STL file - a pre-made model of say, lane guides - would it be easier to start with that or to do a new model?
I ask as some of the Williams lane guides on ThingVerse are really cruddy, not accurate and could use some tweaking. I was thinking of that and possibly some plastics. Some of the posts are close but not quite there.
Would it be easier for someone with Fusion or Solidworks skill to redo those?

I can add to STL files but sometimes it’s easier to start from scratch. Thin final products like lane guide sides might be an issue 3D printing as its hard to build a really thin strong wall that won’t delaminate.

4 weeks later
#15 47 days ago

Hey guys, I am trying out my 3D printer as well and have some questions - but I suppose the main one is: where do you find STL files generally? I am familiar with Thingiverse, but I am looking for stuff from LOTR and I thought I'd see a lot more on there as far as miniatures. thanks!

#16 47 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Hey guys, I am trying out my 3D printer as well and have some questions - but I suppose the main one is: where do you find STL files generally? I am familiar with Thingiverse, but I am looking for stuff from LOTR and I thought I'd see a lot more on there as far as miniatures. thanks!

There are some 3D modeler sites out there, Thingverse being the biggest community-driven one. You may want to contract out - do you have models to scan or do you have any of the models already?

#17 47 days ago
Quoted from pb456:

There are some 3D modeler sites out there, Thingverse being the biggest community-driven one. You may want to contract out - do you have models to scan or do you have any of the models already?

I’m looking for
The models in the first place - I just expected there to be more
Stuff is all.

#18 46 days ago

I've found some interesting stuff on MyMiniFactory.com. They have a bunch of free stuff, and some paid models. I haven't looked for LOTR stuff though specifically.

#19 46 days ago
Quoted from pkiefert:

I've found some interesting stuff on MyMiniFactory.com. They have a bunch of free stuff, and some paid models. I haven't looked for LOTR stuff though specifically.

Thanks, I just happened to find that site! I appreciate it

#20 46 days ago

fiverr.com is a good place if you wanna contract out something specific.

#21 46 days ago

I can model objects if anyone is interested. More structured items (pop caps, buildings, switches, targets, brackets are much easier than organic type objects for me.

I have used solidworks almost everyday of my professional life.

Send it my way all I'll return it and give you the .stl file.

#22 46 days ago
Quoted from Langless28:

I can model objects if anyone is interested. More structured items (pop caps, buildings, switches, targets, brackets are much easier than organic type objects for me.
I have used solidworks almost everyday of my professional life.
Send it my way all I'll return it and give you the .stl file.

Fire me off your email address, I've got about a dozen solidworks objects I'd like to start printing!

#23 46 days ago
Quoted from Langless28:

I can model objects if anyone is interested. More structured items (pop caps, buildings, switches, targets, brackets are much easier than organic type objects for me.
I have used solidworks almost everyday of my professional life.
Send it my way all I'll return it and give you the .stl file.

Wow, that is quite an offer!

#24 46 days ago

Every pinball part I wanted to make I had to draw myself. I suspect most people just don't share (me included) since it's more 'tinkering' than anything else. We should start a repository here!

If you want to draw simple stuff, try TinkerCAD. I use it fairly often - I wish I had more free time to learn to use the more CAD vector oriented software. TinkerCAD lets you draw basic shapes, then combine (or subtract them) to form a final shape. Most the time it's fine, other times...nope. Its web based and made by the same people that make AutoCAD.

I made this plastic support for my Roller Games. Two seperate prints (one red, one black).
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If you want to try 3D scanning, look into these. No experience and don't know the resolution or quality, but might be worth playing with.
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Also, look into PLA + (sometimes called 'plus').

#25 44 days ago

Here is the bulk of the collection of Solidworks parts (for 3D printing in PLA or ABS or PETG) I've collected.

https://1drv.ms/f/s!AsXY7DRX04DLg1t0mSpXJfPP1Kgb

#26 44 days ago

Converting solidworks to stl is an easy 10 second process - simply open and "save as"

While getting people to help with conversion is good, grab a copy of fusion or solidworks if you can and start to learn the 3d modelling process as it is so valueable

As for scanners they get close but not as sharp as modelling yourself, as I have had to remodel a few items for people that they took to a modelling service and honestly the scan was 0.2-0.4mm lumps

#27 44 days ago
Quoted from swinks:

Converting solidworks to stl is an easy 10 second process - simply open and "save as"
While getting people to help with conversion is good, grab a copy of fusion or solidworks if you can and start to learn the 3d modelling process as it is so valueable
As for scanners they get close but not as sharp as modelling yourself, as I have had to remodel a few items for people that they took to a modelling service and honestly the scan was 0.2-0.4mm lumps

Think that depends on the scanner you have and knowledge in using it. Mine scans to .05 which is far from what any 3D printer can export. Plus, while I am quite proficient at Fusion rarely will that help you when creating or detailing non geometric items like figures or animals in detail. Tried drawing a Monkey in Fusion for hours, scanned scales and modeled it in minutes on a scanner. Right tool for the job depends on what your creating.

#28 44 days ago
Quoted from swinks:

Converting solidworks to stl is an easy 10 second process - simply open and "save as"
While getting people to help with conversion is good, grab a copy of fusion or solidworks if you can and start to learn the 3d modelling process as it is so valueable
As for scanners they get close but not as sharp as modelling yourself, as I have had to remodel a few items for people that they took to a modelling service and honestly the scan was 0.2-0.4mm lumps

You cannot convert a Solidworks file without Solidworks as far as I know. They won't open in Fusion 360 (at least I can't figure that out with the Hobbyist license).

There are online sites out there that will convert from Solidworks to STL but: #1, they're not free, and #2 they have limitations as far as the size of the Solidworks objects. The collection I posted is all above the size limits of the sites I've tried. So..... it's great if someone can convert them!

#29 44 days ago

Has anybody tried using the Microsoft Kinect for scanning? I read somewhere that’s not too difficult but I’m not sure on the quality

#30 44 days ago
Quoted from pb456:

You cannot convert a Solidworks file without Solidworks as far as I know. They won't open in Fusion 360 (at least I can't figure that out with the Hobbyist license).

You can convert them with Autodesk Inventor. If anyone needs one saved to STL just let me know.

#31 44 days ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

You can convert them with Autodesk Inventor. If anyone needs one saved to STL just let me know.

The link I posted earlier should have all the Solidworks files I need converted. If you can't get to it, let me know and I'll arrange a different method. Thanks!

#32 44 days ago
Quoted from pb456:

The link I posted earlier should have all the Solidworks files I need converted. If you can't get to it, let me know and I'll arrange a different method. Thanks!

Ah, OK. Send me a PM with your email address and I'll send you the STL files.

#33 44 days ago

...this page is where I got those Solidworks files from...

https://pinballmakers.com/wiki/index.php?title=Main_Page

#34 44 days ago

Converted files sent. As I mentioned in the email, these Solidworks models were created for molded parts... not really designed with 3D printing in mind. For optimal printing, the models really should be tweaked (so they can be printed with minimal or no support structure needed).

#35 44 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Has anybody tried using the Microsoft Kinect for scanning? I read somewhere that’s not too difficult but I’m not sure on the quality

Virtually useless in my testing. While it can scan the resolution result would be comparable to simply molding the object in clay with your hands. It falls in the “you get what you pay for” category. And no it’s not difficult though hardly worth the result.

#36 44 days ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

Converted files sent. As I mentioned in the email, these Solidworks models were created for molded parts... not really designed with 3D printing in mind. For optimal printing, the models really should be tweaked (so they can be printed with minimal or no support structure needed).

Insteresting Thanks - I'll bring them into Simplify 3D and see what I can accomplish and post pics.

Thank you thank you thank you!!!!

#37 44 days ago
Quoted from pb456:

Insteresting Thanks - I'll bring them into Simplify 3D and see what I can accomplish and post pics.
Thank you thank you thank you!!!!

Simplify is the Best. Note that it has a very good clean feature to repair any conversion issues. Good luck.

#38 44 days ago
Quoted from pb456:

Insteresting Thanks - I'll bring them into Simplify 3D and see what I can accomplish and post pics.
Thank you thank you thank you!!!!

Yeah, you could probably make the necessary changes with Meshmixer as well. That's another free tool from Autodesk. Takes a while to figure out, but there's some powerful stuff in there.
If you have trouble printing one let me know, and maybe I can fix up the model in Inventor and then generate a more 3D-printer-friendly STL.

#39 42 days ago

These are a few of the STL objects I printed on my Ender 3 last night. I need to increase the infill (I think it was 15-20, not solid enough for posts). Also need to figure out how to polish the pop cap better than it is.

Using a translucent green PLA. I understand PLA may not be strong enough to withstand hits, but maybe it would be with denser infill?

In short, thank you so much mattosborn for getting these converted. This is why I got into 3D printing - to print replacement parts. That and random junk for the kids

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#40 38 days ago
Quoted from pb456:

I understand PLA may not be strong enough to withstand hits, but maybe it would be with denser infill?

PLA isn't perfect, but it worked well on our Python's Pinball Circus whitewood. We used it for the Elephant head that had ball contact as the ball was loaded onto the trunk and rolled down it, but not super crazy direct impacts. I think we used 45% infill, but that seemed like overkill for it.

Anything direct impacts I wouldn't use it though. Use the PLA+ which generally has as good of performance as ABS.

#41 38 days ago
Quoted from pkiefert:

PLA isn't perfect, but it worked well on our Python's Pinball Circus whitewood. We used it for the Elephant head that had ball contact as the ball was loaded onto the trunk and rolled down it, but not super crazy direct impacts. I think we used 45% infill, but that seemed like overkill for it.
Anything direct impacts I wouldn't use it though. Use the PLA+ which generally has as good of performance as ABS.

The problem I was having was there weren't any good scans or shapes I could use to try for replacements, those that I could were in SolidWorks - which thankfully were converted successfully by mattosborn (!!!). Now that I have good prints with PLA, I think I'll see how they go. Can use ABS or PETG or PLA+, but of course I have a good mess of PLA to work through on the tuning of shapes and colors and print quality. Some day I'll have to learn Fusion 360, but today is not the day

I'll post more pics as I work through the problems. As much trouble as it's been, I'm finally making progress!

#42 38 days ago
Quoted from pkiefert:

PLA isn't perfect, but it worked well on our Python's Pinball Circus whitewood. We used it for the Elephant head that had ball contact as the ball was loaded onto the trunk and rolled down it, but not super crazy direct impacts. I think we used 45% infill, but that seemed like overkill for it.
Anything direct impacts I wouldn't use it though. Use the PLA+ which generally has as good of performance as ABS.

Ditto there. Everything I've made is not meant for ball contact or even any kind of impact. I just don't see 3D parts lasting.

Just repeating what I heard...PLA+ (what I typically use) isn't even as strong as straight PLA, but it has move 'give', which people tend to (incorrectly) think is stronger. Sounds like it's actually a bit more flexible, not as brittle.

I think 3D's best application is for the game mods. Print them, paint them..tada - a cheap mod that looks good. The doughnut shop in Getaway comes to mind. A few people tinkering w/that improvement and some have looked rather impressive.

Making a homebrew is another area I think 3D printing shines. Easy to fool around w/prototypes before committing to real parts. Wonder if anyone has made the equivalent of a metal habitrail? I suppose print size would be an issue.

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