There's some pinball parts modeled on thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=pinball&dwh=305b68a784d387b

Give Autodesk Fushion 360 a try. It's free and after a few video lessons on YouTube you'll be creating in no time.

Anyone got a file for keeping target switches upright?

pb456 Do you have X-box 360? You could use it for 3D scanning easy, there are a lot of tutorials on YouTube. From my personal experience best scans can be obtained with this software (I used 30days trial version). Or you can try to build a 3D model with Autodesk Fusion or FreeCAD for example.

If its something you can hand measure and relay the info up here i can draw it in solidworks for you.

I'd love to see some 3D printed pop bumper caps for Blackout!

http://pinballmakers.com/wiki/index.php/Files_Section

Just need to resave it in solid works. Pm me and you can get my email. Email me the SW part file and I can resale it if that helps you.

I can add to STL files but sometimes it’s easier to start from scratch. Thin final products like lane guide sides might be an issue 3D printing as its hard to build a really thin strong wall that won’t delaminate.

Hey guys, I am trying out my 3D printer as well and have some questions - but I suppose the main one is: where do you find STL files generally? I am familiar with Thingiverse, but I am looking for stuff from LOTR and I thought I'd see a lot more on there as far as miniatures. thanks!

I’m looking for
The models in the first place - I just expected there to be more
Stuff is all.

I've found some interesting stuff on MyMiniFactory.com. They have a bunch of free stuff, and some paid models. I haven't looked for LOTR stuff though specifically.

Thanks, I just happened to find that site! I appreciate it

fiverr.com is a good place if you wanna contract out something specific.

I can model objects if anyone is interested. More structured items (pop caps, buildings, switches, targets, brackets are much easier than organic type objects for me.

I have used solidworks almost everyday of my professional life.

Send it my way all I'll return it and give you the .stl file.

Wow, that is quite an offer!

Every pinball part I wanted to make I had to draw myself. I suspect most people just don't share (me included) since it's more 'tinkering' than anything else. We should start a repository here!

If you want to draw simple stuff, try TinkerCAD. I use it fairly often - I wish I had more free time to learn to use the more CAD vector oriented software. TinkerCAD lets you draw basic shapes, then combine (or subtract them) to form a final shape. Most the time it's fine, other times...nope. Its web based and made by the same people that make AutoCAD.

I made this plastic support for my Roller Games. Two seperate prints (one red, one black).
20180325_223049 (resized).jpg

If you want to try 3D scanning, look into these. No experience and don't know the resolution or quality, but might be worth playing with.
Capture (resized).PNG

Also, look into PLA + (sometimes called 'plus').

Converting solidworks to stl is an easy 10 second process - simply open and "save as"

While getting people to help with conversion is good, grab a copy of fusion or solidworks if you can and start to learn the 3d modelling process as it is so valueable

As for scanners they get close but not as sharp as modelling yourself, as I have had to remodel a few items for people that they took to a modelling service and honestly the scan was 0.2-0.4mm lumps

Think that depends on the scanner you have and knowledge in using it. Mine scans to .05 which is far from what any 3D printer can export. Plus, while I am quite proficient at Fusion rarely will that help you when creating or detailing non geometric items like figures or animals in detail. Tried drawing a Monkey in Fusion for hours, scanned scales and modeled it in minutes on a scanner. Right tool for the job depends on what your creating.

Has anybody tried using the Microsoft Kinect for scanning? I read somewhere that’s not too difficult but I’m not sure on the quality

You can convert them with Autodesk Inventor. If anyone needs one saved to STL just let me know.

Ah, OK. Send me a PM with your email address and I'll send you the STL files.

Converted files sent. As I mentioned in the email, these Solidworks models were created for molded parts... not really designed with 3D printing in mind. For optimal printing, the models really should be tweaked (so they can be printed with minimal or no support structure needed).

Virtually useless in my testing. While it can scan the resolution result would be comparable to simply molding the object in clay with your hands. It falls in the “you get what you pay for” category. And no it’s not difficult though hardly worth the result.

Simplify is the Best. Note that it has a very good clean feature to repair any conversion issues. Good luck.

Yeah, you could probably make the necessary changes with Meshmixer as well. That's another free tool from Autodesk. Takes a while to figure out, but there's some powerful stuff in there.
If you have trouble printing one let me know, and maybe I can fix up the model in Inventor and then generate a more 3D-printer-friendly STL.

PLA isn't perfect, but it worked well on our Python's Pinball Circus whitewood. We used it for the Elephant head that had ball contact as the ball was loaded onto the trunk and rolled down it, but not super crazy direct impacts. I think we used 45% infill, but that seemed like overkill for it.

Anything direct impacts I wouldn't use it though. Use the PLA+ which generally has as good of performance as ABS.

Ditto there. Everything I've made is not meant for ball contact or even any kind of impact. I just don't see 3D parts lasting.

Just repeating what I heard...PLA+ (what I typically use) isn't even as strong as straight PLA, but it has move 'give', which people tend to (incorrectly) think is stronger. Sounds like it's actually a bit more flexible, not as brittle.

I think 3D's best application is for the game mods. Print them, paint them..tada - a cheap mod that looks good. The doughnut shop in Getaway comes to mind. A few people tinkering w/that improvement and some have looked rather impressive.

Making a homebrew is another area I think 3D printing shines. Easy to fool around w/prototypes before committing to real parts. Wonder if anyone has made the equivalent of a metal habitrail? I suppose print size would be an issue.

I got my feet wet with 3D printing last weekend, and ended as of last night.

A trip to MicroCenter netted me a Monoprice i3 printer. I was able to only print the cute cat that came with the factory SD card. Couldn't read files on ANY sd card, can't USB connect, can't wireless connect. Did some troubleshooting(different cables, software, computers), but I wasn't able to print anything other than that cat. It initially was trying to 3D print air.

I returned it for a full refund.

I'm considreing that Creality 3D Ender 3, which looks like someone else alreadty has on here(looking at the pictures). I bought cheap, I got cheap. Problem is, I'll have to order from Amazon, so returns won't be so easy.

Just received my Ender 3 yesterday. Printed the dog... Well the lower 1/8 of it. Filament hanged up in the middle of the night, i should have loaded the big spool instead of the small sample they give you. So far, I really like it. Downloading Fusion 360 tonight and creating some bushings next.

I've got a Creality 3D Ender 3 Pro for a few weeks and the prints are quit amazing (compared to my 4 year old Ormerod).
Didn't have much problems with it, only the Z-axis limit switch needed some adjusting.

I received a Dremel 3D20 as a surprise from my wife for Christmas. I made some plastic protectors (aka washers) as a test, that worked. Kudos to MJL for his help on my next project which is a Saruman staff for LOTR. I have a few prototypes printed and am still tweaking. More to come...

Did you have to do a lot of unscrewing of the 4 posts to get the paper-thin gap? I had to eventually move up that z-switch to get a tiny gap(as opposed to a quarter inch gap). My first print wouldn't stay put on the base.

s1500 : yes the same for me, but then it worked fine.

3D printing might bring out my OCD more than my pinball hobby. Here is a version of Saruman's staff for LOTR that I printed in white filament and painted as needed. Thanks again to MJL for the assist.

staff (resized).jpg