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(Topic ID: 270600)

Getting a new roof - Any advice or words of wisdom?


By mcluvin

4 months ago



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  • 31 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 days ago by mcluvin
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    #1 4 months ago

    I'm trying to decide between GAF and Certainteed for an asphalt shingle re-roof. A couple of the estimators have told me I've got enough wind damage to likely file a successful insurance claim for a new roof. A number of my neighbors have successfully done just that in the last few months (mostly using the GAF roofer).

    I'm leaning towards the Certainteed Landmark vs. GAF Timberline HD for the shingles. The GAF roofer offers a 2-year workmanship warranty, which I know sucks. They also mostly use contractors to do the work. The larger Certainteed roofer offers 5 years standard and is Select certified. They tell me most of their workers are employees, but they sometimes use contractors. The smaller Certainteed roofer is not Select certified but offers a 7-year workmanship warranty.

    My head is spinning with all the little details.

    #2 4 months ago

    In my state there is no contractor licensing. Most roofers are one-man 'companies' that use all independent contractor 'wink' subs as their employees. The company has all the insurances for their employees (his wife/girlfriend) but does not actually cover the sub that falls from your roof. They will also claim that safety and safety equipment in the responsibility of each sub. Warranty claims (a joke) can be voided as the crew does not match the contractors certification requirements ie: product specific training.

    If the quote is seems to good, peel back the layers and see who you dealing with.

    Other than that, one word: metal .

    #3 4 months ago

    I filed a claim and my insurance paid all but my $1000 deductible. Afterwards they raised my deductible to $3000. I think my roof was $8-9000, so filing the claim was worth it.

    #4 4 months ago

    If the contractor is available right away. ..Red flag

    #5 4 months ago

    No matter whether or not you are submitting a claim through your Home Owners Insurance, I would contact them and ask for the companies they recommend. My HOI recommended companies when I had to replace my roof. There are a LOT of shady roofing contractors. Using a contractor that your insurance company recommends could save you if something goes wrong in the future.

    #6 4 months ago

    Timberline GAF shingles are fine. I know Home Depot used that brand predominately with re-roofs.

    The main thing with roofs is hiring the right contractor for the job. You can get top of the line shingles, but if the contractor sucks...you are going to encounter problems.

    Do your research on each company/roofer to make sure they have a Home Improvement License, Workers Comp and Liability Insurance, and adhere to local building department guidelines within your municipality. You don’t want to hire a roofer that is going to do the work and if something goes wrong, won’t back up their workmanship.

    #7 4 months ago

    I don’t know your location, but I’ve replaced 4 roofs on 3 different houses in the last 15 years or so in central Minnesota. First time the company used contractors and screwed up a ton... flashing not installed correctly, gaps left where bags entered, you name it. 2nd time I made sure to find a place that “told” me just local crews. Well, verbal wasn’t worth crap and contractors from out of state again... ugh... similar problems. This last time I used a local remodeling contractor that had done work on an addition for me and I knew the two brothers that would be doing the work. Best experience by far. Doesn’t help you, but if you can find someone you trust you’ll get a much better job of course (sorry, I can be captain obvious sometimes). Good luck!!

    #8 4 months ago

    Yeah....roofers are notorious thieves and meth heads. Don't let them in your house....EVER.

    #9 4 months ago

    I'm getting mine done tomorrow, definitely file a claim if you have wind damage and know when it's from. Pretty much paid half my roof. Lost some shingles after a crazy wind storm and reported it the same week.

    #10 4 months ago
    Quoted from zaphod:

    In my state there is no contractor licensing. Most roofers are one-man 'companies' that use all independent contractor 'wink' subs as their employees. The company has all the insurances for their employees (his wife/girlfriend) but does not actually cover the sub that falls from your roof. They will also claim that safety and safety equipment in the responsibility of each sub. Warranty claims (a joke) can be voided as the crew does not match the contractors certification requirements ie: product specific training.

    It's funny. The GAF estimator mentioned that the owner has 2 companies and the other company is the one that hires the contractors. He didn't think anything of it, but that was an alarm to me.

    Quoted from bluespin:

    I filed a claim and my insurance paid all but my $1000 deductible. Afterwards they raised my deductible to $3000. I think my roof was $8-9000, so filing the claim was worth it.

    My neighbor down the street has the same insurer as me. She got approved a few months ago. I'm not sure if her deductible went up, but the estimator said her entire policy actually went down a few hundred because she now had a new roof.

    Quoted from Gravity:

    Timberline GAF shingles are fine. I know Home Depot used that brand predominately with re-roofs.

    The main thing with roofs is hiring the right contractor for the job. You can get top of the line shingles, but if the contractor sucks...you are going to encounter problems.

    Do your research on each company/roofer to make sure they have a Home Improvement License, Workers Comp and Liability Insurance, and adhere to local building department guidelines within your municipality. You don’t want to hire a roofer that is going to do the work and if something goes wrong, won’t back up their workmanship.

    I picked 4 roofers with lots of good reviews and figured on narrowing it down based on what they told me, not just price. Based on what I've encountered so far, they seem to favor Certainteed. At this point, I know I'm going to choose a roofer with a minimum 5-year workmanship warranty. Two years isn't enough.

    Thanks for the advice everyone!

    #11 4 months ago

    Don't get a metal red colored roof unless you want a hells angel at your house.

    #12 4 months ago
    Quoted from cdnpinbacon:

    Don't get a metal red colored roof unless you want a hells angel at your house.

    Unless you live in a Pizza Hut

    #13 4 months ago

    Don’t believe online reviews, especially from Angies List or Yelp.
    Try and get references/recommendations from friends in your town or neighborhood.

    #14 4 months ago

    If you are going to re-roof, now is the best time to also do Solar if you are in a good area for that. Many people add solar to an old roof only to find later they have to uninstall the panels to install a replacement roof.

    #15 4 months ago

    My brother is a crackhead roofer. That's why he gets kjocked the fuck out everytime I see him. Pathetic.

    #16 4 months ago
    Quoted from Gryszzz:

    Yeah....roofers are notorious thieves and meth heads. Don't let them in your house....EVER.

    I'm on my original roof which has lasted a good long while. Though one of my wife's cousins is a druggy and just happened to have also worked on the crew that built the roof Maybe I got lucky!

    It's amazing. I've got estimators that just show up out of the blue to give an estimate and don't want to interact. Then there's a couple who don't want to give me anything in writing unless I commit to them. I need to see all the little details in writing before I commit to anyone. I understand most folks don't give a flip, but I do.

    I've got one last company coming out. They've been in business locally for 60+ years. They've got some great informative videos on youtube describing the products they use and how they differ from your run of the mill roofer. They do not use contractors at all. The only bad review I could find was someone complaining about the algae guard failing after 5 years (manufacturing defect in the shingles). They initially wanted to clean it. The customer complained. They worked with the manufacturer and re-shingled his entire roof under warranty to the customer's satisfaction. I'm crossing my fingers I like this one.

    #17 4 months ago

    The last company that came out (Eustis Roofing) was head and shoulders better than the others in explaining everything and answering questions. They gave me 4 different underlayment samples to compare what they use vs. the competitors' products. They also explained all the other stuff they do that most others don't. He provided different shingle samples and a folder full of good info. You could definitely see the difference comparing the Landmark (heavier and thicker) to the Timberline shingles. Best of all, no subcontractors. It's even in the contract, which he gave me a copy of (unsigned).

    #18 4 months ago

    If you are paying for the labor i would suggest getting the thickest longest lasting shingles. It costs the same to put on thin shingles or thick.

    #19 4 months ago

    Don't pay anything up front - nothing until the work is done and approved. If they can't handle that, they're not reputable.

    #20 4 months ago

    I think I paid about 8,000 to get my roof replaced from the second cheapest guy. The highest quote I got... was over 40,000. Always get multiple quotes from different contractors. Additionally, everything is negotiable. If you are down to the last 2 guys, show them each others quotes. Tell them you'd like to go with company A but company B is $500 cheaper and if they'd just match it you'd go with them. Would they give a cash discount? There is no reason you can't get 10-15% off the final quote from any company. $1,000 is $1,000. Good luck!

    #21 4 months ago
    Quoted from jhanley:

    If you are paying for the labor i would suggest getting the thickest longest lasting shingles. It costs the same to put on thin shingles or thick.

    The difference in weight and thickness between the Timberline and Landmark shingles was pretty surprising. Researching comments on roofing contractor forums, they heavily favor Certainteed.

    The last estimator said the insurance lobby (in Florida) is trying to get legislation passed that would allow them to require a new roof at 15 years regardless of the manufacturer's warranty. If that happens, I suspect all this extra quality is for naught. I'd consider going metal, but I'm pretty sure my HOA doesn't allow it. There is 1 tile roof in the entire neighborhood with the rest being asphalt shingle.

    #22 4 months ago

    Be very careful who does your roof. Many (most?) are ex-cons that can't find any
    other job. Make certain they are bonded and insured. Don't believe them, call your county
    permit department to be certain. I got burned badly on this.

    The condition of the wood under the shingles you remove is very important.
    Replace the bad stuff. Also use 20 pound felt, not the thinner 10 pound junk.
    These are two of the things that will make your roof last far longer.

    Got fed up with crappy contractors and three years ago did it myself.
    And its a huge roof. Took my time and know its right.
    Steve

    #23 4 months ago

    Shame the HOA won't allow metal.
    Make sure they run a magnet over your property after installation to suck up stray nails.

    #24 4 months ago

    Put on a steel roof and never need another roof. My asphalt shingles were coming up and after a windstorm I called the insurance company after there was some damage. I got a check for 9k and then bought the metal roofing and installed it for 7k in material. 11 years later it still looks new.

    IMG_2907 (resized).JPG

    #25 4 months ago
    Quoted from mcluvin:

    The difference in weight and thickness between the Timberline and Landmark shingles was pretty surprising. Researching comments on roofing contractor forums, they heavily favor Certainteed.
    The last estimator said the insurance lobby (in Florida) is trying to get legislation passed that would allow them to require a new roof at 15 years regardless of the manufacturer's warranty. If that happens, I suspect all this extra quality is for naught. I'd consider going metal, but I'm pretty sure my HOA doesn't allow it. There is 1 tile roof in the entire neighborhood with the rest being asphalt shingle.

    Perhaps the HOA would allow metal if it didn't look like metal and looks just like architectural, like mine does.

    #26 4 months ago
    Quoted from yaksplat:

    Put on a steel roof and never need another roof. My asphalt shingles were coming up and after a windstorm I called the insurance company after there was some damage. I got a check for 9k and then bought the metal roofing and installed it for 7k in material. 11 years later it still looks new.
    [quoted image]

    That's a steel roof? Wow. Didn't realize they made it look like that. Or else, I'm just an idiot.

    #27 4 months ago

    Yeah, this is stamped metal, coated with zinc and then has ceramic coated stone on it, just like asphalt shingles.

    www.decra.com

    #28 4 months ago
    Quoted from yaksplat:

    Yeah, this is stamped metal, coated with zinc and then has ceramic coated stone on it, just like asphalt shingles.
    www.decra.com

    Impressive. Thanks!

    #29 4 months ago

    I own a roofing company where I live. Been roofing 25 years and my own business 19. We install a lot of certainteed and are certified with them as well.

    Feel free to pm me any questions.

    #30 4 months ago
    Quoted from yaksplat:

    Perhaps the HOA would allow metal if it didn't look like metal and looks just like architectural, like mine does.

    I sent them an e-mail. We'll see. I'd just about guarantee they start allowing metal if that legislation passes.

    Quoted from extraballingtmc:

    I own a roofing company where I live. Been roofing 25 years and my own business 19. We install a lot of certainteed and are certified with them as well.
    Feel free to pm me any questions.

    Thanks!

    2 weeks later
    #31 3 months ago

    The claim is approved. Surprisingly easier than I expected, though not terribly quick. One of my neighbors has shitty insurance. Her claim was not approved.

    If you have any sort of roof damage, but don't think you have enough for a claim, have a roofer look at it. I had all sorts of damage that I did not recognize (zippering, loss of adhesion). I didn't have any visible leaks in my ceiling either, but other than my deductible, insurance is covering my new roof.

    #32 3 months ago

    So what shingle did you end up choosing? Warranty?

    #33 3 months ago
    Quoted from extraballingtmc:

    So what shingle did you end up choosing? Warranty?

    I'm still sorting it out. I've got 2 bidders that don't use subs on their roofing crews and are well-reviewed. Both push Certainteed. The smaller bidder is local and offers the longest workmanship warranty (7 vs 5 years), but is not Certainteed Select Certified (can't offer the 5-star warranty). They've been around for ~15 years and my neighbor and numerous reviews say they are great. The larger company is certified and has been around for ~50 years. The 5-star warranty is cheap ($10 per square), but most comments I see from roofers suggest it's not really worth it.

    The smaller guy is cheaper on everything. Default bid is ~$15.4K vs $18K. Upgrade to Landmark Pros ($300 vs $900). Upgrade to rigid shingle over ridge vents on all ridges (included vs. $600). I've currently only got 3 offset vents on the main ridge and there are 2 smaller ridges with none. Replace existing gutters with seamless. The smaller guy is half price at ~$5/ft.

    Now the smaller guy uses Rhino 30 lb synthetic vs the other using FT Synthetic Platinum underlayment. The FT stuff feels stronger and thicker, but I'm not sure that matters so much with underlayment. The smaller guy charges $75 per sheet for decking (3 included for free). The other charges $60/hr plus the cost of materials ( I think a sheet of plywood is ~$25). I'm not sure which is better there? How long does it take to replace a sheet of plywood?

    For one more monkey wrench in all this. I just found out a neighbor used the smaller guy for a new roof 1 month ago. Our houses are the same layout, but mine is ~80 sq ft bigger. Their permit shows a cost of $13,800 for the reroof. I'm trying to get some more details from them, but I'm figuring that's one extra square of shingles allowing for plenty of waste. Why was my estimate $1600 more? The neighbor kept their original venting, but we hadn't even discussed upgrading to ridge vents when I got the estimate.

    I appreciate any input. I like both companies, but I'm not sure the higher bidder is going to come down enough to be competitive.

    Also, what do you think of Landmark IR shingles? I am going to ask as I didn't expect the upgrade to Pros to be so cheap. I think the impact-resistant shingles will save me some money on insurance as well. I'm in Florida and we get a lot of bad storms.

    Thanks!

    Just got word from the neighbor. Their estimate was $14,300 not $13,800. They weren't sure what type of shingles. They look very nice though (lots of variation in the color and shading). So $14.3k + 1 more square + the work required to do the ridge vents. My original estimate is probably right inline. I know there is a good bit of cutting involved.

    #34 3 months ago

    The nice-looking shingles on my neighbor's house are Owens Corning Duration in Sand Dune. They really stand out vs the other homes.

    It's a no go on Landmark IR shingles. Their supplier can't get them. Said they are only approved for California?

    Not my neighbor's house.

    ocsd (resized).PNG

    #35 3 months ago

    Well, one thing's for sure.... I'm glad i do my own roofing.

    #36 3 months ago
    Quoted from yaksplat:

    Well, one thing's for sure.... I'm glad i do my own roofing.

    I kid you not, this is worse than buying a new car. It kills me that one estimate will be so detailed. They tell you what kind of underlayment, what special membrane they use in the valleys, every little f'ing thing. They even spell it out "we do not use subs". But most estimates are seriously lacking. It makes it hard to compare without asking a bunch of questions. It's so tedious.

    #37 3 months ago

    The extra 2 years on labour isn’t a big deal, if there’s a mistake in install it will show up right away when rains come.

    Too bad about ir shingle, it’s great for big hail.

    Definitely landmark pro as it’s thicker shingle.

    Both those synthetics are wrong lol. They should be using a certainteed product for a certainteed roof. You want roofrunner or diamond deck. Winter guard will be the peel and stick to be used at eaves, valleys and around penetrations.

    Might as well get the 4 or 5 star warranty, extra peace of mind. Spending 15k what’s another 200 and insurance covering most of it. Don’t cheap out.

    Plywood replacement should be a per sheet price not hourly. It only takes a few minutes to change anyways. $75 per sheet plus first 3 included is very fair. Usually don’t need to replace any anyways.

    Although it’s convenient to get gutters changed by the roofer you don’t have to. It can be done after by another company.

    Always change all the vents, stack flashings etc. Even if they still ok they won’t be for another 20-30 years.

    Not sure if you have any gables but should put drip edge flashings on them if you do.

    #38 3 months ago

    Don’t be afraid to ask higher bidder for a better price. Might not work but maybe it will. See what they will do for you.

    Personally I will come down a bit if I need to or meet in middle. However if I’m crazy busy I’m not that motivated to reduce my price as I have plenty of work anyways and probably at a higher profit margin.

    #39 3 months ago

    I'm going with Owens Corning shingles and their licensed (or whatever) installer after getting 3 quotes. My primary concern was, ok, so you (the installer) are giving me a xx # of years workmanship warranty. How do I know you'll still be in business if the time comes and I need warranty work? Owens Corning warranty says that if the original installer is no longer available, the closest installer will come out for the warranty work.

    GAF is fine, but they just spend $$$ on marketing and the big box stores use them. I'll pass on that though.

    Just Google, "new shingles reddit" for all the first hand info from customers and installers. The rep who came out for the quote provided all the info I was going to ask based on my research. Everything he said is everything I wanted based on what I learned. The other 2 quotes, yeah not so much. Be wary of a roofer who also wants to replace your gutters, "just because you might as well at the same time". If your gutters don't have issues, don't replace them "just because". The quote I chose didn't say squat about gutter replacement - because they don't need to be.

    Here's one search result to get the OP started:
    https://www.reddit.com/r/HomeImprovement/comments/7qurnm/what_to_look_out_for_when_getting_new_roof/

    #40 3 months ago
    Quoted from yaksplat:

    Put on a steel roof and never need another roof. My asphalt shingles were coming up and after a windstorm I called the insurance company after there was some damage. I got a check for 9k and then bought the metal roofing and installed it for 7k in material. 11 years later it still looks new.
    [quoted image]

    Uhh.. that’s amazing, I’m definitely doing this when the time comes. I was going to do metal anyway but didn’t realize non-ugly was an option.

    #41 3 months ago
    Quoted from yaksplat:

    Perhaps the HOA would allow metal if it didn't look like metal and looks just like architectural, like mine does.

    That HOA crap is for the birds. Not sure why anyone would want to live where they can tell you what type of shingles you can or can't put on your house.

    John

    #42 3 months ago
    Quoted from Dayhuff:

    That HOA crap is for the birds. Not sure why anyone would want to live where they can tell you what type of shingles you can or can't put on your house.
    John

    To ensure your neighbors keep up their house maintenance and their property doesn't have rusted cars sitting on cinder blocks; grass up to their windows; and also don't install white shingles that stand out like a sore thumb.

    You can't choose your neighbors, but can at least know they aren't going to be dirtbags making the neighborhood look like trash.

    #43 3 months ago
    Quoted from extraballingtmc:

    The extra 2 years on labour isn’t a big deal, if there’s a mistake in install it will show up right away when rains come.

    I hear ya, but that workmanship warranty tells me how much faith they have in the job they've done. JA Edwards offers a 2-year workmanship warranty standard. I know they use subcontractors and GAF shingles and I know they get lots of complaints about shoddy work. If a company is offering 7 years, that tells me something. Defective shingles get installed all the time. The company might replace the shingles, but what about all the labor? The workmanship warranty takes care of that.

    Quoted from extraballingtmc:

    Too bad about ir shingle, it’s great for big hail.

    Yeah, I'm not buying what he told me. Surely they are available in more states than California. Ultimately though, I'm trying to get the best roof I can get within reason. If hail jacks my roof, that's why I've got insurance.

    Quoted from extraballingtmc:

    Definitely landmark pro as it’s thicker shingle.

    For an extra $300 it's a no-brainer. I think Landmark Pro vs regular is an extra 40 lbs per square in weight. Upgrading further to Landmark Premium gets you another 30 lb/square, but Premiums are much more expensive.

    Quoted from extraballingtmc:

    Both those synthetics are wrong lol. They should be using a certainteed product for a certainteed roof. You want roofrunner or diamond deck. Winter guard will be the peel and stick to be used at eaves, valleys and around penetrations.

    One of the companies had their shit so together they gave me samples of all the popular underlayments. The FT Synthetics Platinum is by far the most substantial underlayment. It's no contest. But I'd say the Rhino Roof comes in second, at least in terms of hand feel. Ultimately though, it's just protecting everything underneath while the shingles are getting installed right? As for the valleys, the larger company simply says a poly seal rubber underlayment membrane. The smaller company says they use a product they call Resisto. I suspect most customers don't give a flip. I do.

    Quoted from extraballingtmc:

    Might as well get the 4 or 5 star warranty, extra peace of mind. Spending 15k what’s another 200 and insurance covering most of it. Don’t cheap out.

    I will if I go with the roofer that offers it. Many roofers suggest it is difficult to get an approved claim. I can tell you some of my estimates had a huge markup on that warranty. $10 per square is cheap for the 5-star warranty.

    Quoted from extraballingtmc:

    Plywood replacement should be a per sheet price not hourly. It only takes a few minutes to change anyways. $75 per sheet plus first 3 included is very fair. Usually don’t need to replace any anyways.

    That's what I figured. I know I'm gonna need a few to cover up the offset vents and I have one valley with some rot at the bottom about the size of a dinner plate.

    Quoted from extraballingtmc:

    Although it’s convenient to get gutters changed by the roofer you don’t have to. It can be done after by another company.

    $5/ft is cheap for seamless aluminum gutters around here. If I go with the cheaper roofer, I'm pretty sure I'm gonna need to add some work anyway as I'm on the hook for a $2500 deductible which I must pay and insurance is paying ~$16.5K. It's got to add up to at least $19K somehow.

    Quoted from extraballingtmc:

    Always change all the vents, stack flashings etc. Even if they still ok they won’t be for another 20-30 years.

    Not sure if you have any gables but should put drip edge flashings on them if you do.

    Yeah, getting all that included.

    Thanks for the advice. Most of my neighbors are going with JA Edwards. The PM guy is smooth. "You've got roofing damage. I can get you a new roof for almost free". And they are hooked. Admittedly, I had no idea I had enough damage for a claim until he clued me in. I think I'll send him a gift card for a lunch or 2.

    #44 3 months ago

    Got my check yesterday. It was suggested they'd likely send one for the depreciated value, then the rest (minus my deductible) once they had proof the roof was finished. Nope, they sent me the full replacement value minus the deductible. That makes things a lot easier.

    I told the high bidder what the low bidder offered to install Landmark Pros. We'll see what they say. I'm signing a contract with somebody by EOD Tuesday.

    #45 3 months ago

    Glad it’s almost over with.

    Hopefully higher bidder will work with you a bit on the price.

    #46 3 months ago

    In the market for a roof and I would say there are a lot of details for sure as spoken above. So my question for anyone is on a roof attic fan. When my house was built 17 years ago with an installed roof vent I was told to put in a roof ceiling fan in my walk up attic Now over the years had one or two contractors tell me it works against the ridge vent in the cooling process for the attic. Is that so as I’m thinking of going ahead with new roof and just remove existing attic roof fan? Is it really necessary.

    I just don’t know but the second floor does seem warmer when the roof fan is not turned on. So not sure with the whole cooling aspect in having it along with a ridge vent.

    #47 3 months ago
    Quoted from FalconDriver:

    In the market for a roof and I would say there are a lot of details for sure as spoken above. So my question for anyone is on a roof attic fan. When my house was built 17 years ago with an installed roof vent I was told to put in a roof ceiling fan in my walk up attic Now over the years had one or two contractors tell me it works against the ridge vent in the cooling process for the attic. Is that so as I’m thinking of going ahead with new roof and just remove existing attic roof fan? Is it really necessary.
    I just don’t know but the second floor does seem warmer when the roof fan is not turned on. So not sure with the whole cooling aspect in having it along with a ridge vent.

    I’ve not had a customer with an interior attic fan. Without testing I would agree that the air would be pushed away and could work against the ridge venting. You can always turn it off or disconnect the fan initially and see how ridge venting works on its own.

    #48 3 months ago
    Quoted from cdnpinbacon:

    Don't get a metal red colored roof unless you want a hells angel at your house.

    What is this a reference to?

    Also, steel roof is the way to go.

    #49 3 months ago
    Quoted from extraballingtmc:

    I’ve not had a customer with an interior attic fan. Without testing I would agree that the air would be pushed away and could work against the ridge venting. You can always turn it off or disconnect the fan initially and see how ridge venting works on its own.

    Thanks!

    #50 3 months ago
    Quoted from mcluvin:

    The difference in weight and thickness between the Timberline and Landmark shingles was pretty surprising. Researching comments on roofing contractor forums, they heavily favor Certainteed.
    The last estimator said the insurance lobby (in Florida) is trying to get legislation passed that would allow them to require a new roof at 15 years regardless of the manufacturer's warranty. If that happens, I suspect all this extra quality is for naught. I'd consider going metal, but I'm pretty sure my HOA doesn't allow it. There is 1 tile roof in the entire neighborhood with the rest being asphalt shingle.

    My brother works for GAF. He put Certainteed shingles on his house.

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    ULEKstore
    $ 67.00
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    Lermods
    $ 89.99
    Lighting - Led
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    $ 95.00
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    pinballmod
    $ 99.99
    Lighting - Other
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    From: $ 218.00
    $ 159.00
    From: $ 15.00
    From: $ 5.00
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    UpKick Pinball
    $ 10.00
    Cabinet - Decals
    Pinball Haus
    $ 149.00
    $ 229.99
    Lighting - Other
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    $ 7,999.00
    Pinball Machine
    The Pinball Place
    $ 34.99
    Cleaner
    Pinball Pro
    From: $ 42.00
    Cabinet - Shooter Rods
    ModFather Pinball Mods
    $ 369.00
    Cabinet - Decals
    Mircoplayfields
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