(Topic ID: 126469)

gettin playfield posts white again


By Dr_of_Style

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 32 posts
  • 17 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by kangourou
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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    postwht1.jpg
    popcap1.jpg
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    20141120_194802.jpg

    #1 4 years ago

    OK, i know there was a post for this, but searchin produces "0" found, so...
    I need to get some play field posts, and some bowler pins white again.
    How do I do it?
    Thanks

    #2 4 years ago

    Can't speak for bowler pins, but playfields posts I would paint with Krylon Fusion.

    #3 4 years ago

    Variety of ways to do this, depending on how yellowed the posts are (I have no experience with bowler pins, though) -- and it's possible (short of actcually painting them) they won't get totally white.

    I like to give the posts a good spray with Krud Kutter and a scrubbing with a toothbrush, followed by a run through my ultrasonic cleaner (more Krud Kutter, a touch of Dawn Dishwashing liquid and water).

    Tim Meighan, an expert restorer in my area, also uses toothpaste (it's a soap) on plastic parts without artwork and they come out really nice.

    Again, short of painting or buying new ones from PBR or Marco, they might not return to true white. But the approach above has been good enough for me.

    #4 4 years ago

    Retr0brite works sometimes from what I've read--it's a mix of high-percentage hydrogen peroxide and oxy and UV light.

    Unfortunately, I haven't had any success myself, but I might need to try it with an actual UV light, rather than just relying on sunlight.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Retr0bright
    http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com/

    I seem to remember someone using this method on the big skull from a Williams No Fear a while back, but I can't seem to locate the thread.

    [edit]: Also, some additional info and possible techniques here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/white-repro-plastic-posts

    #5 4 years ago

    thanks guys. it is comforting to know i am not the only one who can't find old threads.
    I don't know if its the search, or the searcher...???... But things hide out there.

    #6 4 years ago

    In all my years(over 15+) nothing was ever found or tried that worked w/many 'experiments' tried. Once yellowed, it's yellowed. Can you make it a little less yellow? Possibly, but imo not worth the effort.

    Some reading here and I also posted about pins somewhere in that thread I believe.

    https://groups.google.com/forum/m/?hl=en#!topic/rec.games.pinball/m1z6hCQ5kZM

    #7 4 years ago

    As cash says...It is a total waste of time. I have tried with zero success as well on playfield posts.

    #8 4 years ago

    Nothing I have ever used got them totally white. For 50 cents each I buy them in bulk and don't spent time and energy trying to clean them.

    #9 4 years ago
    Quoted from Pinplayer1967:

    Nothing I have ever used got them totally white. For 50 cents each I buy them in bulk and don't spent time and energy trying to clean them.

    Can you get posts that are *actually* white, or have some weird tinge to them?

    The problem is that most seem to have some weird tinge and then they aren't actually white.

    #10 4 years ago
    Quoted from ForceFlow:

    Can you get posts that are *actually* white, or have some weird tinge to them?
    The problem is that most seem to have some weird tinge and then they aren't actually white.

    those that PBR sells have a bluish tint to them. I really don't like them.
    I got a batch of 1300 NOS post that look just right.
    I will try and get a picture of old, repro and nos to show the color difference

    #11 4 years ago
    Quoted from boilerman:

    those that PBR sells have a bluish tint to them. I really don't like them

    Me neither. I took one look at them and said "yuck". I still haven't tried buying white ones from anybody else yet.

    #12 4 years ago
    Quoted from boilerman:

    I will try and get a picture of old, repro and nos to show the color difference

    Looks like you already did that in the other thread here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/white-repro-plastic-posts/page/3#post-2105901

    #13 4 years ago

    PBR new on the right, NOS on the left.
    20141120_194802.jpg

    #14 4 years ago

    thanks ken, now I don't have to dig them out

    #15 4 years ago

    that will cost you another 100

    #16 4 years ago
    Quoted from pinhead52:

    PBR new on the right, NOS on the left.
    20141120_194802.jpg (Click image to enlarge)

    Yep and 30 years ago those NOS on the left were the same color as the ones on the right.

    #17 4 years ago
    Quoted from pinhead52:

    PBR new on the right, NOS on the left.
    20141120_194802.jpg (Click image to enlarge)

    The ones on the right don't look like they are tinted gray/blue. Are they really just white now, or is the camera just automatically correcting the color in the photo?

    #18 4 years ago

    Probably the light correcting. 1 yr old stock from pbr

    #19 4 years ago

    I know I'm going to incur the wrath of some folks here, but it's always been my contention that the original plastic posts were never truly white. They're more like an ivory color, and have been so from the beginning. Did they age a shade or two; yeah, probably, but I don't think they were ever the ultra bright white (with an almost bluish tinge) that the repro posts are. If original plastic posts are really yellowed looking, that's one thing, but an ivory color is normal. I think they look just fine as long as they are clean. The repros are way too white and don't look good. Try aging them in a strong tea solution for a couple of weeks as I have done with pop bumper bodies.

    #20 4 years ago

    I agree with jr but I got some 1300 nos that will replace the ones that are to far gone

    repro------nos-------old

    20141214_184513.jpg
    #21 4 years ago
    Quoted from boilerman:

    I agree with jr but I got some 1300 nos that will replace the ones that are to far gone
    repro------nos-------old

    Even then, you are comparing what appears to be NOS but is, in my opinion, an NOS Bally post, not Gottlieb. But in terms of fit into even the Gottlieb EM games it is very nice. That coloring is spot on for my tastes.

    #22 4 years ago

    My old playfield posts are as white as my tetracyline teeth.

    #23 4 years ago
    Quoted from MikeO:

    Even then, you are comparing what appears to be NOS but is, in my opinion, an NOS Bally post, not Gottlieb. But in terms of fit into even the Gottlieb EM games it is very nice. That coloring is spot on for my tastes.

    I believe they are bally post. but I looks like Steve's repros have the same top lip
    they do look better than those bluish ones, or the brownish old ones

    #24 4 years ago
    Quoted from boilerman:

    I believe they are bally post.
    they do look better than those bluish ones, or the brownish old ones

    Agree 1000%.

    #25 4 years ago

    People will try to sell anything on ebay....

    ebay.com link » Bally Zip A Doo Pinball Machine White Plastic Posts Early Long Short

    I guess I shouldnt be discarding

    #26 4 years ago

    I just gave Jeff a whole baggie full of nicotine yellowed posts from the Royal Guard he had sold me. That means I just gave him 7 dollars...LOL

    #27 4 years ago

    I have used the Retrobrite method on different kinds of playfield plastics.
    It worked best on a '70s Gottlieb EM pop cap, turned it from yellowed to a perfect white. I was amazed.

    On white playfield posts and guides it works quite well, certainly taking the yellow out and ending up with an ivory color, which might be the original tone anyway. It definitely super cleaned them at the least.

    I haven't had any luck with color posts, some plastic acted funky and got sticky.

    I used the solution in a zip-lock placed into a small plastic tub. Left it in the sunlight on a windowsill for a couple of days.

    I ended up using the stronger H2O2 from beauty supply shops rather than the weaker solution in drug stores. But either works, just takes longer.

    It seems that the Retrobrite method works best on hard plastic, and quite well on softer plastic like posts.

    Care must be taken with handling the stronger H2O2, I don't know how people put that stuff on their head for hair coloring!

    Alan

    #28 4 years ago

    I have heard/read that the Retrobrite process will make treated plastics more brittle - do posts and other parts have any issues after treatment?

    #29 4 years ago
    Quoted from P2K:

    I have used the Retrobrite method on different kinds of playfield plastics.
    It worked best on a '70s Gottlieb EM pop cap, turned it from yellowed to a perfect white. I was amazed.
    On white playfield posts and guides it works quite well, certainly taking the yellow out and ending up with an ivory color, which might be the original tone anyway. It definitely super cleaned them at the least.
    I haven't had any luck with color posts, some plastic acted funky and got sticky.
    I used the solution in a zip-lock placed into a small plastic tub. Left it in the sunlight on a windowsill for a couple of days.
    I ended up using the stronger H2O2 from beauty supply shops rather than the weaker solution in drug stores. But either works, just takes longer.
    It seems that the Retrobrite method works best on hard plastic, and quite well on softer plastic like posts.
    Care must be taken with handling the stronger H2O2, I don't know how people put that stuff on their head for hair coloring!
    Alan

    The retrobrite didn't do any harm to the stamped ink on the bumper caps, eh? Sounds promising!

    #30 4 years ago

    I have used retrobrite in the past and it seemed to work well (put outside in the sun for the UV). You may have to polish them to get them to get the glossy look afterwards.

    Just a word of warning on thin plastic parts it may warp them as the solution does heat up a bit. It warp some thin guides that I tried to whiten (although it did whiten them)

    #31 4 years ago
    Quoted from goldenboy232:

    The retrobrite didn't do any harm to the stamped ink on the bumper caps, eh? Sounds promising!

    These caps had most of the printing already gone. What little was left didn't disappear after Retrobrite but it appeared to be a bit more faded. More experiments are needed for printed parts.

    Here are photos before and after.

    popcap1.jpg postwht1.jpg
    #32 4 years ago

    With Hydrogen Peroxide :

    Before
    1.jpg

    During
    2.jpg

    After
    3.jpg

    ----------------------------------------------------

    Wanted : Dead or Alive - In any condition
    Gottlieb SPACE WALK
    You find, you win : REWARD USD 500

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