I've had this problem once before with static in the sound and I re-seated the ribbon cables and that seem to have fixed the problem. Now that trick don't seem to work. How can I fix this once and for all?
(Topic ID: 333102)
Fort Worth, TX
Quoted from Brewchap:I've had this problem once before with static in the sound and I re-seated the ribbon cables and that seem to have fixed the problem. Now that trick don't seem to work. How can I fix this once and for all?
Happens in all orchestrations (assuming you've tried different ones)? Most common issue for things like this is not having a reliable 5V feed to the board. If you check the config file on the USB what 5V ranges does it provide?
I don't have a pinsound or any other card than the stock audio board. There's not a USB port on there is there?
It seems that the music is fine if I pull the ribbon cable, but the call outs and sound effects are gone. Connect the ribbon cable back up and the static comes back.
I’m sorry, I completely read PinSound into your post somehow. I don’t have my original board anymore so not sure ho to diagnose this one.
I found this information on PinWiki and I'm going to give it a try.
6.29.5.6 Popping, Scratchy Sound, Very Hot
LM1875 Heat Sink, or Shorted Speakers
Sometimes, the tantalum/ceramic caps in the amp circuit fail too. This can result in too much AC "ripple" feeding the amp as well as DC output to the speakers, which they do not like. The following components are all suspect...
C20 (10µF, 20V tantalum)
C46 and C47 (both 1µF, 35V tantalum)
C22 (22µF, 35v electrolytic)
C23 (.22µF, 10V, ceramic)
I'm with the wiki here.
The audio amplifier is probably too hot to touch (warning, you can burn your finger!).
Right in front of the audio amplifier chip are some yellow tantalum capacitors. They fail by incinerating themselves, and I've had half a dozen of these caps in this kind of sound board fail in the last year or so.
Sound board repair is... challenging.
You might get lucky and just have to replace the LM1875. You might only have to replace the incinerated yellow tantalum capacitor you find. (Hehe)
But most of my repairs have been more than that, and some of the boards I've fixed myself, a lot I've sent off to people with better board repair skills than I have.
Good luck, and let us know what you find!
So far, since I took the board out, it has been working great. When it was out, I did push down on the chips that was in a socket and I could hear them resetting from the cracking and popping that was going on
Still have parts coming in, but I'm not ready to replace anything until there is actually a problem that is persistence.
Quoted from Brewchap:I'm not ready to replace anything until there is actually a problem
Yeah. Don't fix what isn't broke!
It would be helpful if the capacitors that fail on this board would bulge, or leak electrolyte before they failed, but sound board repair is tough.
I'm really glad that your board works now!
Randy Fromm (Video and pinball repair technician and teacher...) says:
I can't tell you how many times I've pulled a board, touched things, and it starts working.
I call it a 'FM' fix.
Freakin' Magic!
3 weeks later
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