Getaway: High Speed II, The
Williams, 1992getaway right flipper switch restarts machine. eos switch is ok which i figured out by moving the flipper manually. I assume it's some kind of short but where do I begin to look. i'm a novice to pinball's but as a sound engineer i understand troubleshooting and basic electronics. any help would be greatly appreciated.
Quoted from LTG:Is this during game play ? If so I'd start with the diodes on the right flipper coil.
Your game is fliptronics, so forget EOS. Something major would have to be screwed up for it to bother the machine.
LTG : )
it also happens in switch test mode. thanks... i will check diodes
Quoted from Kazak:it also happens in switch test mode. thanks... i will check diodes
Resets are complicated, I had a similar issue but my problem was the thermistor which is a fairly involved fix.
Diodes are one part of the puzzle but;
Check for any lose connection blots on the boards to make sure they are tight and properly grounded.
Clean and constant inline voltage
Check your 5V is good
This link may help....
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets
I fixed my Getaway reset issues by tightening a loose mounting screw on one of the boards.
It’s worth trying the easy solutions first.
Quoted from Pinless:Have you seen this potential solution?
http://www.kahr.us/daughterboard.html
Very interesting, but as my machine was working fine I still think there's someting shorting somewhere.Your post seems to be fixing a design flaw. I think this is not design floor but component failure or a short. Thanks... I'm keeping at it but really would like someone to identify these diodes... part no, manual page, location etc.
On the fliptronic board After bridge rectifier? Part #?
hanks again my Gurus
The right flipper fires two coils, correct? That could be enough current draw to cause the voltage drop that causes typical WPC resets. I’d go on to pinwiki and follow the steps associated with resets. Could be connectors between driver board and mpu, or any number of things mentioned on pinwiki.
At the very least, I'd check my 5v value at the plug on the mpu board. If it's less than 4.95, it's probably a 5v reset issue.
Have checked diodes but now feel like an idiot. Both flippers restart machine! I'm sure it used to be just right, but it's been so long I'm not really sure anymore. My next move is to swap the WPC board with my one from TAF which I know works. Does this more accurate reporting of the diagnosis lead anyone to think of an obvious cause? I can't see any shorts. I've had the bridge rectifier, capacitor prob before but this is not like that. It's an instant restart when flippers are hit. I will reset everything with the replacement board as PinWiki suggests, but if you've had this specific issue and think you might know what's going on please let me know. Thanks for all your help so far everyone.
Quoted from Kazak:Have checked diodes but now feel like an idiot. Both flippers restart machine! I'm sure it used to be just right, but it's been so long I'm not really sure anymore. My next move is to swap the WPC board with my one from TAF which I know works. Does this more accurate reporting of the diagnosis lead anyone to think of an obvious cause? I can't see any shorts. I've had the bridge rectifier, capacitor prob before but this is not like that. It's an instant restart when flippers are hit. I will reset everything with the replacement board as PinWiki suggests, but if you've had this specific issue and think you might know what's going on please let me know. Thanks for all your help so far everyone.
That’s exactly how mine progressed. I followed the pinwiki troubleshooting steps, and solved the issue on step 2.
Quoted from Pinless:Have you seen this potential solution?
http://www.kahr.us/daughterboard.html
buy this product and your issue will be resolved !
Quoted from fast_in_muskoka:buy this product and your issue will be resolved !
Temporarily.
Quoted from NPO:Temporarily.
I'm at 3 years and no issues
Quoted from fast_in_muskoka:I'm at 3 years and no issues
Come over to this thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/kahr-daughterboard-question-is-it-a-permanent-fix
Read such inspiring quotes such as:
Quoted from RatShack:Not permanent. I added one and it fixed resets, later added a color DMD and now get them occasionally during long sessions. The power section definitely still needs attention.
Or this...
Quoted from EvanDickson:Not a permanent solution. I've had 2 machines with the daughterboard that eventually started failing again, the solution was a proper rebuild of the power board (and the fliptronics board for good measure).
If you don't have the consider confidence and tools to do the rebuild, then the daughterboard is a great temporary solution tho.
Even Rob - the guy who built that "silver unicorn" that hasn't failed in your machine, yet - clarifies the board is not meant to be a fix to the reset problem:
Quoted from rkahr:Mike,
I first was alerted to your post late yesterday but watched from the sidelines to let others chime in, but now I'll offer a few thoughts... If you haven't already done so, I'd recommend a review of the technical details on my website: http://www.kahr.us/index2.html . Note in particular the last sentence in the summary section that includes: "The power supplies still need to be maintained..."
To start, the WPC Power Fix is a permanent fix. But remember, my Daughterboard isn't called the "reset fix", so it is most decidedly not a permanent fix for the reset symptom experienced in WPC era games.
It will fail sooner or later, and then you'll have multiple issues to fix, and trust me - you'll have a lot less fun of a time diagnosing two reset issues than just one.
My TAF pulled that random reset stuff with one of these boards installed. I got burned believing it was a "fix all, end all" magic bullet. It's not.
I ended up fixing it by diagnosing the circuit and fixing the faulty part of the circuit that caused the resets.
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