(Topic ID: 118973)

Getaway - Mars light & motor not running

By Tony01

9 years ago


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  • 22 posts
  • 2 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by zaza
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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HS2-motor2.jpg
HS2-motor1.jpg
J104.jpg
#1 9 years ago

Well I'm baffled here. I checked all fuses (good!), connections (which I found wrong, but good now), I checked voltages at TPs (good!),etc. I got a new motor, triac driver board and resistor board. When I put it into test mode I only get 7 volts coming out of the molex connector. I measured the voltage from J104-4 and -5 I also get 7 volts, weather in test mode or not. I believe I should get 12v. Can anyone verify this for me.

Also, when I'm not in mars test, I get 7 volts from one of the two wires at the molex connector. Is that right?

#2 9 years ago

When fuses and voltages are checked ok, not much more left then the traces from J102 to J104 (via fuse 111 are burnt. I've seen that before
With machine powered OFF, J102 and J104 disconnected, measure continuity between J102 and J104 as seen in the picture.
There should be 16Vac between J104 4+5.
J104.jpgJ104.jpg

#3 9 years ago

Thanks Zaza. However, I got continuity between J102 & J104 as shown above. I have 10V at J102-1 to -4, is that right???

#4 9 years ago

That seems a bit to low. Are you sure the multimeter is ok ? Set to Vac ?
You said TPs are good, but do you have 20Vdc at TP7 ? Are flashers working ?
Is interlock switch OK ?

#5 9 years ago

I do have 20V at TP7. Interlock switch and multimeter fine. However, I do have issues with some flashers. Flashers #17, 19, and 21 stay on, but they do flicker during the tests. I never noticed it because the bulbs were burnt out. The remaining flashers work perfect. Also, I did a solenoid test, for some odd reason #10 Diverter Low does not trigger, however, #1 Diverter High works fine.

#6 9 years ago

First the powerdriverboard needs some attention, best to take it out and check/replace the transistors for those flashers Q42,38,28 and Q56 for "divertor low".

#7 9 years ago

I tested them following the below link, however, I got in range readings, but I did transistor test with the pin off and the board connected. Is that ok?

http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wpc/index2.htm#trans

#8 9 years ago
Quoted from Tony01:

I tested them following the below link

for some reason my browser doesn't show everything on this site and can't see how it is explained.

Easy way to do it:
Machine OFF
DMM in beep/diode test
Unplug J12x (in this case J125+126 for flashers and J127-129 for diverter)
RED pin of DMM on GND
with BLK pin touch each pin of the J12x

normal read is approx. 450mV
short is 0.0 mV and beep

#9 9 years ago

Again Zara, thank you so much for chiming in, your input is helping me figure out these issues. I made a small mistake after I did your test and recorded the readings. I do not have a issue with flasher # 17, it works just fine. However......
Your testing is different than what I did, below is a list of what I got doing it your way:
J125-
1: 0.524mV
2: 0.561
3: .442 * left slingshot flasher
4: X
5: .525
6: .419 * left ramp flasher
7: .545
8: .535
9: .530

J126-
1: .522 * Right bank flasher - this is ok!
2: .551
3: .436 * left slingshot flasher
4: .528
5: .423 * left ramp flasher
6: .525
7: .543
8: .542
9: x
10: 1.091
11: 1.091
12: 1.075
13: .966

J127-
1: .523
2: x
3: .533 * low diverter
4: .529
5: .530
6: .522
7: .529
8: .525
9: .522

J123-4: .545 mV *revolving lamp

J128 & J129 have no connectors on them

As for the flashers, I noticed a small drop in voltage (~.125mV) for the "stuck on" than compared to the working flashers. Does this give any indication of what could be wrong?

As for the solenoid diverter low, i will check for loose wiring. But what does low divertor do? When the diverter high solenoid is on, it opens the super charger track and when its off, the divertor closes it self. It feels like its spring loaded.

#10 9 years ago
Quoted from Tony01:

As for the solenoid diverter low, i will check for loose wiring. But what does low divertor do? the diverter high solenoid in on, it opens the super charger track and when its off, the divertor closes it self. It fells like its spring loaded.

The diverter works the same as a flipper coil, 1 for power and 1 to hold the diverter in place.
In solenoids test, the hold is not powerful enough to activate the diverter. it is very well possible that it works. If in game the supercharger is loaded and the ball is kept in the supercharger a number of rounds, the hold is just working fine. Or use supercharger-test.

Quoted from Tony01:

As for the flashers, I noticed a small drop in voltage for the "stuck on" than compared to the working flashers. Does this give any ideas?

The only thing I can imagine now is that they are partly blown or different (wrong) kind of transistors.
If you are experienced with repairing/soldering, you could take one of the odd ones out of the board and compare it with a new one.
Measure all combinations:
leg 1 to leg 2,
leg 1 to leg 3
leg 2 to leg 3

If old and new transistor measure the same, then problem may be deeper inside the board.

#11 9 years ago

I have another question in regards to the Triac driver board. My J1-1 Red-white wire splits into two Red-white stripe wires. One wire goes to Power Driver Board J106-5, not J106-3 as manual states. I believe this is a manual error as stated in other forum on this site. However, where is the other red-white splitter wires going? I cant trace it.

#12 9 years ago

I guess I'm going to order transistors and diodes. I'll let you know how I make out when I replace them. As for beacon, i'm still baffled.

#13 9 years ago
Quoted from Tony01:

One wire goes to Power Driver Board J106-5, not J106-3 as manual states.

Ok, will look at it later today, i'm back in a few hours. Or if someone else can check on their HS2

#14 9 years ago

Thanks Zaza, I appreciate all your input you have submitted in this forum!

If in game the supercharger is loaded and the ball is kept in the supercharger a number of rounds, the hold is just working fine. Or use supercharger-test. *Yes this works perfect during games! I just didnt hear anything snapping or making a clicking noise during test mode.

#15 9 years ago
Quoted from Tony01:

My J1-1 Red-white wire splits into two Red-white stripe wires. One wire goes to Power Driver Board J106-5, not J106-3 as manual states. I believe this is a manual error as stated in other forum on this site. However, where is the other red-white splitter wires going? I cant trace it.

Red-White is 20Vdc power for flashers and is connected to 107-5/6 or J106-5
That means it should go to the flashers after the splitter.

I always thought the beacon motor works on 50Vac, but as usually the manual has different stories.
Page 3-16 of manual shows a picture with 48Vac on J2 as supply for motor.
But description above writes J2 is connected to PDB J104-4 + J104-5, that means 16Vac. Thats why I asked to check the flashers.
But I'm quite sure the text on page 3-16 should be J104-1 + J104-2 but that makes the wirecolor white-blue

So, can you look for the wirecolor on J2 of the triac driver board
Is the beaconmotor a 50Vac version ?

HS2-motor1.jpgHS2-motor1.jpg

To be sure, can someone with a HS2 confirm the wires on J104 of the PDB ?

#16 9 years ago

OK, my J2 is connected to J104-4 & 5. Which are white wires that have red dashes.
How do I check if my beacon motor is 50 Vac? Its made by Bowman Electrical Products Corp. Model E.

#17 9 years ago

Ok, J104-4 & 5 should be White-Red so leave it on this position.

On the housing of the motor could be a label with working Voltage and Hertz

#18 9 years ago

I had to take the motor down, but i got the info. It states 12V, 60 Hz, 3 W on the top of the motor.

#19 9 years ago

thanx, so the picture looks like this:
HS2-motor2.jpgHS2-motor2.jpg

#20 9 years ago

When you still have the powerdriverboard disconnected, it is possible to measure the transformer output of the connector with the white-red wires but now without any load. If this is still 7Vac, there is something wrong with transformer.

#21 9 years ago

I disconnected the transformer, I got 16Vac off of the white-red wires. I think I need to just send the PDB out for repairs to an expert... something is just not right. The front of the board looks good, but who knows whats going on behind it.The pin plays fine and all the TPs are good. Again thanks for your help Zaza! My hat off to you with your pin knowledge!

#22 9 years ago

16Vac is correct, so there is something consuming a lot of energy.
Before you send it to an expert, it may be interesting to know when the voltage drops.

With powerdriverboard in machine but J102 and J04 to J107 disconnected, one by one plug them in. Starting with J102 and going up, and measure ac-voltage across the 2 WHT-RED wires.
See picture in post #2.

Quoted from Tony01:

Again thanks for your help Zaza! My hat off to you with your pin knowledge!

You're welcome and thank you !

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