(Topic ID: 308293)

Getaway: HSII DMD "flame/cloud" issue

By RedPointTabor

2 years ago


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#1 2 years ago

Greetings,

I'm running a Videogame Bar in a small town in Czechia and also started implementing Pinballs.

Last week I got a HSII (second revision I think), after an overhaul where they mainly did cosmetic stuff and changed the DMCB.
First few days it was running nicely just the shifter would intermittently stop working shifting up so I just check the solderpoints and reconnected the plug which fixed it.

(Aside from that he was just giving me a "switch 64 ramp" error but the ramp worked correctly)

Yesterday we brought our Space Station from servicing and after just 6 games (where both machines were connected to the same power outlet) the HSII just showed a scrambled mess on the DMD.
The game itself works correctly just the display is showing those "flames" (could upload a video of it aswell)

So I checked online while printing out the manual.

What I tried:
Reseated the flex/ribbon cables
Flipped them once to see if would change anything
Checked all fuses (once after reseating the ribbon cable F112 blew but after reseating not anymore)
LEDs checking out
Visual inspection for any blown/burnt stuff

Since the display is "showing" something and changing I guess data is coming through but the HC-voltages may be off?
Gonna measure it in like and hour but would like to know if anyone would have any input aside from buying a Color-DMD to cut out the Hc-circuit.

Thanks
Benjamin

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#2 2 years ago

So just finished measuring voltages from the DMD to the DMBC and then from DMBC to the main plug before the powerplant and it seems that 80VAC and 100VAC (white and purple cables) are mostly dead.

Picture description:
1st: -125v
2nd: -112v
3rd: 62v
4th: 80VAC
5th: 100VAC
6th: main plug

So any advice aside from trying a different power plant?

Regards

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#3 2 years ago

Not sure where you're getting those voltages, but for DMD issues, only DC voltages are tested. Follow the procedure at the link below and heed the warnings about the high voltages. Display voltages will give you a nice bite if you're not careful. Also, try to determine if the display is original or not. Original will likely have a serial number sticker on it, like the boards in the game. Original doesn't mean it's bad, but does increase suspicion due to age.

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Testing_DMD_Controller_Power

#4 2 years ago

Looks like classic hi power issue on the dmd controller

#5 2 years ago
Quoted from phishrace:

Not sure where you're getting those voltages, but for DMD issues, only DC voltages are tested. Follow the procedure at the link below and heed the warnings about the high voltages. Display voltages will give you a nice bite if you're not careful. Also, try to determine if the display is original or not. Original will likely have a serial number sticker on it, like the boards in the game. Original doesn't mean it's bad, but does increase suspicion due to age.
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Testing_DMD_Controller_Power

Ok did it via ur tutorial and got:
At the main plug (in cabinet)
105VAC on purple 100VAC rail
83.5VAC on White 80VAC rail

At DMCB i get:
8VAC for Purple 100VAC
7VAC for white 80VAC

Edit:
For the VDC rails (the ones to the DMDB i get mV or 0.00VDC!

So there is a problem on the way from the main plug inside the cabinet to the DMCB I guess?

#6 2 years ago
Quoted from kvan99:

Looks like classic hi power issue on the dmd controller

And how may I be able to fix it?

#8 2 years ago

Below are the DC voltages you need to check at the power connector for the DMD. (from the link above) Assuming the game hasn't come from a different country (incoming voltages changed), those are the voltages that will tell you which way to go. As the page says, test with display connector connected, then test at the video board if needed.

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#9 2 years ago

In your 5th picture where you have the connector on top of the speaker, it looks like you have the probes inserted in the same terminal on either end of the connector. You aren't going to measure anything doing that.

#10 2 years ago
Quoted from RedPointTabor:

And how may I be able to fix it?

mbaumle posted the kit you need, that is If you know how to work on boards, if you don't there are plenty of pinsiders that can repair it for you. Do a search for board repair if you decide to send it out

#11 2 years ago
Quoted from phishrace:

Below are the DC voltages you need to check at the power connector for the DMD. (from the link above) Assuming the game hasn't come from a different country (incoming voltages changed), those are the voltages that will tell you which way to go. As the page says, test with display connector connected, then test at the video board if needed.[quoted image]

Jep not getting those the input voltage to the DMCB is already wrong!

#12 2 years ago
Quoted from kclements:

In your 5th picture where you have the connector on top of the speaker, it looks like you have the probes inserted in the same terminal on either end of the connector. You aren't going to measure anything doing that.

Jep, that's true redid it via the tutorial that was posted in this thread and found out that the DMCB is not getting the 100 and 80 VAC!

#13 2 years ago

Your DMD pictures show the flat cable connector. The voltages should be measured from the larger power connector. And the AC voltages going to DMD controller board are not measured against a common ground. If the AC voltages were missing, the DMD would be totally blank.

#14 2 years ago
Quoted from Tuukka:

Your DMD pictures show the flat cable connector. The voltages should be measured from the larger power connector. And the AC voltages going to DMD controller board are not measured against a common ground. If the AC voltages were missing, the DMD would be totally blank.

Jep checked back with my electronics guy said the same and that i should try another multimeter which I did and I think I got the problem:

62v is 58v

12v is 12.5v
5v is 4.9v

-98/-100 is ~-107v
-110/-112 is ~-128v

I guess the last 2 ones are the culprit so pulling out the board now.

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#15 2 years ago
Quoted from kvan99:

mbaumle posted the kit you need, that is If you know how to work on boards, if you don't there are plenty of pinsiders that can repair it for you. Do a search for board repair if you decide to send it out

I guess I found the culprit?
Any way to measure what connection/resistor is bad?

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#16 2 years ago
Quoted from RedPointTabor:

I guess I found the culprit?

That whole burnt up area is the high voltage circuit. If you’re comfortable doing your own board work, just rebuild the whole thing with the kit I linked (or buy the components of the kit from another retailer, like Mouser or Digi-Key), and replace everything to ensure reliability.

#17 2 years ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

That whole burnt up area is the high voltage circuit. If you’re comfortable doing your own board work, just rebuild the whole thing with the kit I linked (or buy the components of the kit from another retailer, like Mouser or Digi-Key), and replace everything to ensure reliability.

Jep figured as much from all the tutorials i scooped up ^^.
Talked to my guy and he is gonna do the rebuild most likely tomorrow after work so fingers crossed for it being up and running Friday evening.

And just for additional input:
Wouldn't it be better to just install a color dmd or LCD display and cut out the whole high voltage circuit to the DMBC?

#18 2 years ago
Quoted from RedPointTabor:

Wouldn't it be better to just install a color dmd or LCD display and cut out the whole high voltage circuit to the DMBC?

Definitely! An LED DMD from Xpin would also work. They produce far less heat and consume much less power too.

#19 2 years ago
Quoted from Shogun00:

Definitely! An LED DMD from Xpin would also work. They produce far less heat and consume much less power too.

Any other easy add-ons i could get at the same time?

#20 2 years ago
Quoted from RedPointTabor:

Any other easy add-ons i could get at the same time?

Good luck.

WTF does jep mean?

Welcome to the hobby.

#21 2 years ago
Quoted from Jigs:

Good luck.
WTF does jep mean?
Welcome to the hobby.

Jep - je - ja (yes in German) ^^
and thank you hope i will get versed enough in board repair so I can do everything by myself

#22 2 years ago

Just a quick update:

Brought my:

DMD + Board
DMCB
Fliptronic II
All data cables

To my flipperguy, he plugged it all in his ST:TNG machine and everything worked flawlessly.
He tested it for 20-40 minutes took some measurements to see if he gets the same HV readings(which he did) but to be on the safe side he gave me the fliptronic and DMCB out of his machine and new datacables.

Picked it up drove to my place plugged it all in and after cca 3 seconds the display came to life.

People were playing for like 90-120minutes straight and there was the same error again, a quick restart fixed it but only for another 30 minutes -> flames!
After opening the backbox and inspecting the boards visually it fixed itself one last time without me touching anyhthing but after just 2 additional games it got stuck in the same flame/cloud effect + animations as before.

What I tried yesterday/today was:
Did a display test before it crapped itself which passed
Reseating and flipping all data cables
Measured VAC input to DMCB (83.5 and 105 as before)
Measured VDC Output to display (65, -97, -122 doesn't matter if the display is showing the game correctly or the flames)

So since even my guy is completely out of clues he is gonna give me another DMD (which is more degraded some rows already going out)
And another CPU board + another game rom just for testing.

In my desperation I'm trying to replicate the only thing that seems to be connecting the last few events:
The boards + display being unplugged (and transported) in colder temperature for atleast 2-4 hours.
Gonna give and update soon

(Last resort is still the LED/LCD display)

#23 2 years ago

So I guess the last update before I get the colordmd:

Drove for the new CPU and degraded DMD display.
After installation and first install it wouldn't hold the memory.
So i checked the Voltages and ofc there was something off.
Resoldered the battery tray and it worked for the some test games.

Today the bar is gonna be open so let's see it it will all work in a proper stress test.

Thank you guys for all the input.

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