I know this has been discussed but it has been a couple years and I could not see an exact answer to these.

Couple problems with my Getaway HS2 related to this topic, can you help?.

(1) The shooter/launcher will not work.
Solenoid 12/Coil A-14789 Plunger Kicker will not work during Game Play or during Diagnostic Tests.
Coil circuit okay when I use a MM
Wire Continuity okay from J107 to Plunger Kicker solenoid
Fuse F102 is okay checking with MM
Does this mean it is probably the High Current Driver Board Assy? (see second picture attached) It did not look burnt anywhere. How do I test that board or how do I determine if that is the cause? Or what other things should I check?

(2) Introduces Additional Ball into Playfield
Prior to the Plunger/Launch issues, the game would often put an extra ball into the shooter lane mostly during the first ball, game start.
Switches 55,56,57,58, and 78 all test okay during Diagnostics (did with and without a ball in each)
I found this wire (with a diode) cut (not attached on one end). It is soldered in a tab held down by a bolt near the ball trough and hole in the lower right of the playfield I believe near switches 56 Left Trough and 57 Center Trough (see first picture attached--the wire with blue tape on it), where should the end of that be attached?
Thank you.
Dan

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Thanks for your response.
(1) I can look up how to do that and will try it.
(2) the loose wire is actual a diode (so bare wire) Although the diode wire seems long.

Cody
THanks for the pictures, I am out of town so will compare when I get home next week.
Thanks again.

Hi again.

I was looking at a pinball repair website and with the game in attract mode and the DMM on Vdc, attached the black lead to the metal side rail and red lead to each side of the coil one at a time and got a reading of 73.7. I then did another test they suggested called testing coil and power together. An alligator clip jumper to the metal side rail and the other end touched the lug attached to the brown wire and the coil fired!

I am not familar with the test you described earlier:

1) Do you have SOL B+ power on both lugs of the coil? Can you force the coil to fire by connecting a jumper to ground braid and quickly tapping the other end to the Driver Transistor's tab?

So, I go to the backbox and connect a jumper to the ground braid back there and the other end to the transistor on the driver board? THe website describes a test of the TIP102 transistor. How do I locate that specific transistor to do it?

What does it mean if (A) the coil fires when I do that or (B) the coil does not fire when I do that?

Regarding the pictures, the third one is very close to the area, would you be able to take that a little to the left and perhaps slightly up. There is a screw that mounts this diode wire about at a 7:00 position in relation to the hole if the hole was a clock and you were looking from underneath.

Thanks again.

Just bumping the thread, can someone help, could this also be caused by that small board from the first picture? Thank you.