No backboard lights, playfield lights, solenoids. DMD and audio OK. Running test reveals nothing. Fuses all seem OK. Where to from here? Any ideas welcome. In the past I have replaced Getaway's bridge rectrifier 2 and done flipper rebuilds and added mods to TAF, STTNG and Getaway HSII, but am still a bit fresh so please keep things as simple as possible for a simple guy like me.
Thanks. Look forward to reading from you.
Sincerely,
KAZAK

PS... lights all flash brightly for a few milliseconds when I turn the machine off, so I don't think it's a fuse... but I'm just guessing. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also the D19,20 and 21 lights all seem to be acting normally.

Wayout, thanks for your prompt response. I have buzzed out fuses for continuity and they are OK. Tomorrow (it's getting late here now) I will try to do the measurements you suggest. Thanks again. Will report in when I have done more work.

Thank you wayout440. Here is an updated diagnosis.
Symptoms: all solenoids, table lights and backboard lights not working. DMD is OK as is test function on startup (except for Missing Balls) and CPU LEDs are responding normally.
Results for testing voltage across fuses reveals f115 with 0v. All other fuse points show voltage. Line filter fuse is also OK. Feel I'm getting closer and appreciate any help proferred. Thanks.

Additional info: five boings on startup. Manual suggests an audio problem with u14 but I have hade this noise before without this being the case.
If it helps the voltages across fuses are as follows:
F106 - F110 - 8.17v
F111 - 9.4v
F112 - 28.7v
F113 - 5.57v
F114 - 8.74v
F115 - 0v
F116 - 7.72v
Thanks again

Thanks wayout440. Have just rechecked and those are definately the findings. The F115 at 0VAC concerned me at first but now the loss of power to F112 and all the others? Where to from here? Really appreciate your patience and help.

Steve1515, could you please explain how to do this for a newbie?

with kind regards to your last post steve1515, how do I check the voltages at the driver board?

Further to steve1515: I'm not sure after the fuse voltage check I did. How do I get the next possibly relevant info?

Steve1515 - It probably is what I need to know but it's now 5.30am and I am about to pass out. Thank you. Will be in touch when I revive.

Steve1515, I haven't got round to checking the points on 115, but...
Wall plug is 240v and is OK. My measurements taken accross fuses are with AC. Is my transformer goofy?
I fixed a loose diode on the Mamusha light. It's Ok now, but now sometimes the lights are OK, and I think I fixed it a couple of times with a Fonzie hit. It's still intermittent and I havent figured the problem. I hate intermittent faults! Will unplug and replug the board tomorrow, but if this information gives you any ideas, please share them with me. Like I say, I will test the points on 115 tomorrow. Thanks.

Steve1515, sorry, posted my TAF info on wrong forum topic. I got confused. Please ignore last post.

Took the board out and then put it back and the machine came back to life, bar some switches needing resetting, which I was going to do after a five minute break. I assumed there just must have been a loose connector somewhere.
BUT...
three minutes later BANG and C11 has exploded. Any thoughts with regards to this new info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Thanks kbliznick. Anyone know why C11 might blow up?

Not sure what c11 is for.

Thanks Steve1515. Are you saying to do this before replacing the exploded capacitor?

Thanks Steve1515. Are you saying to do this voltage test before replacing the exploded capacitor? By the way, fuses are all correct rating and working.

steve1515, I have performed procedure as instructed. No voltage at any of those test points. Did I mention that when C11 blew it sent shit flying out the top all over the room? Where to from here?

Sorry bout that. Checked the cables this time> Voltages are:
J102: Pin 5 & 8 (51.4 VAC) actually 56 VAC
J102: Pin 2 & 4 (16 VAC) actually 17.3 VAC
J101: Pin 5 & 6 (13.3 VAC) actually 14.7 VAC
J101: Pin 1 & 2 (9 VAC) actually 9.8 VAC
J112: Pin 3 & 5 (9.8 VAC) actually 3 VAC
J605: Pin 1 & 2 (80 VAC) actually 87 VAC
J605: Pin 3 & 5 (100 VAC) actually 110 VAC
J4: Pin 1 & 4 (36 VAC) - not sure what you mean J4 on audio board?
J4: Pin 4 & 6 (18 VAC)
J4: Pin 1 & 6 (18 VAC)

Thanks

On my J112, 3 and 5 are bridged.

J112 pins 1 and 3 give 12.5 VAC, so all seem to be OK but a bit high, yes?

On J501, Pin 1 & 2 Bridged. No pin 3. Pin 4 and 5 Bridged. Pin 6 & 7 Bridged. Pin1 and 4 (0r 5) reads 40 VAC. Pin 1 and 6 reads 20 VAC.

DSC_1054.JPGDSC_1051.JPG

Transformer connects to 1, 4 and 6 on J501 (not shown in photo).

Thanks, steve1515. Cap is on order. Will let you know more in a few days

Steve1515, Just received and installed cap and tested as you described. All tests OK. Whereto from here?

I just plugged everything in and turned it on for a few seconds. No playfield or backbox lights. DMD, Audio and test buttons OK, but I turned it off within 10 seconds so as not to blow anything. I think tomorrow I will remove the board and test all transistors. This is from the Williams Repair Guide:

Exploding +20 volt C11 Capacitor (or C10 on WPC95).
There are cases when the +20 volt capacitor (Driver board C11 on WPC-S and prior, C10 on WPC-95) can just explode. This happens when a shorted flipper coil diode or shorted transistor on the Fliptronics board causes the 70 volt coil power to feedback into the 20 volt flashlamp circuitry. Because of reverse voltage, this blows the 20 volt capacitor. Also installing one of the ribbon cable connectors in the backbox on the header pins (top row of header
pins to bottom row of housing) can do the same thing. And lastly, if connector J124 is mistakenly plugged into the driver board connector J128 (they are keyed alike!), this can cause capacitor C11 to explode.
First check the ribbon cable header pins to make sure they are attached correctly. Then check the flippers. If when the flippers are activated, one of the flashlamps dimly lights, there may be a bad flipper transistor on the Fliptronics board.
There is a preventive measure which can be taken for this. Install a blocking diode on the driver board ceramic 10 watt resistor R224 (or R9 on WPC-95). To do this on a WPC-S or earlier driver board, first remove the lower leg of resistor resistor R224 (the leg just above TP7). Connect the anode (nonbanded end) of a 1N4004 (or 1N4007) diode to the resistor’s leg. Then solder the cathode (banded side) of the diode back into the driver board (where
one leg of R224 was removed). This will prevent the problem.

It doesn't help me much, as a novice. Any thoughts?

J120 has only 1,2 7 and 8 connected.
No voltage readings. I'm testing the lead unplugged in against a known cabinet ground. Is that right?

J109 connector only has pin only has Pin7 connected.

J107 has Pins 1,2,3 and 6 (no Pin 5).

I'm not measuring voltages. Am I doing this right?

Confused.

When doing my last tests I only had j101, j102, and j112 connected
Was that right? Should I plugging power back in ti the Dot Matrix and other boards to do these tests? I may still sound stupid but it keeps making more sense as we go. Coninued gratefulness.

Can I test a ribbon cable (suspect 113 is my best guess)?

J120 measures nothing Nothin j109 has only pin 1 connected. Ak I on the right track? I'll keep gonig

J120 pin 7 fluctuates around pin 2VDC. and pin 8 fluctuates around 2.5CDV.

Should I take my ribbin cable out of TAF abd try iy in Getaway? Don't wont to do more damage.

Steve1515, measured J120 It has pins one and two connected and pin 7 is 2.54 VAC, pin 8 is 2.78VAC.
-litz, pins all lined up ok. Befor trying ribbon swap with TAF, should I plug all other things back into Getaway board?

Just swapped my J122 - J113 ribbon cable wtih my TAF and it works fine. Next move?

That is to say the Adams still works. The Getaway is still ill.

Have switched boards around and have found the culprit is the Getaway CPU board. Power driver assembly boards are all OK. What next?

P.S. Sorry it's been a while.

While I'm at it, after swapping the Power Driver Assembly boards in TAF and Getaway, I notice that lamp matrix column 8 (the T-H-I-N-G lights, the start button) is down on TAF (game plays fine on both PDAs, but with those lights not working). This would indicate that the TAF CPU also has a fault, yes?

First, TAF lamp matrix column 8 was dying slowly - light by light over a few weeks. When I swapped power driver boards, I still have the same problem on TAF but rest of game still works, therefor I assume that both power driver boards are OK (with J102 disconnected on Getaway and the TAF CPU installed, I get lights back on Getaway).

Clearer? So both power boards seem OK and each CPU seems to have a fault. I dont suspect ribbon cable, as swapping these gave same results. so... ????

That is correct. I appreciate your assistance. I doubt both ribbon cables would die simultaneously, but will retest to be certain.

!!! Just put Getaway back together and it's working! Don't know whether it was a cable swap or reverse or just some bad connection.
TAF is also working except for the lamps below the DMD ( *-T-H-I-N-G-*). The credit button light works which is the only other lamp on lamp matrix column 8.
Also the RPM lights below 3rd, 4th and 5th gear lights are not working properly on Getaway; they flash irregularly in attract mode and not properly during game play. I haven't spent any time looking into this yet as I have only just got Getaway going.
Thanks heaps to steve1515 and litz for patience and assistance.
I will check in to see if you have any ideas re these two remaining faults.

Should I put the TAF fault as a new topic in the TAF section do you think?