(Topic ID: 258758)

Getaway entire switch row out

By Haymaker

4 years ago


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  • 16 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by Haymaker
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 4 years ago

I've been trying to figure out this problem on my getaway for a while now. I have an entire row of switches out. It's row 5. I have continuity to the connector and ive triple checked every switch, so i know it's not a broken wire

I replaced u19 and i went ahead and did u20 as well since it had some very minor corrosion.

It's not a cold solder joint at the header pins either.

I really thought the u19 would fix it but sadly the problem remains and I'm just not advanced enough to know what to check next. Hopefully one of you can point me in the right direction

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#2 4 years ago
Quoted from Haymaker:

did u20 as well since it had some very minor corrosion

U20 is part of the switch matrix problem also,Can you post a pic of the corrosion on that CPU board.That corrosion may have eaten it's way all the way down to U20 pins.I know you replaced it but corrosion can cause all sorts of problems.

#3 4 years ago
Quoted from pinmike:

U20 is part of the switch matrix problem also,Can you post a pic of the corrosion on that CPU board.That corrosion may have eaten it's way all the way down to U20 pins.I know you replaced it but corrosion can cause all sorts of problems.

I can take a picture when I get home tonight, but the damage was very very minor. Everything under u20 was cleaned up and verified working when I installed a socket and new chip. u20 mostly controls the columns, which in theory could lead to problems but considering its only 1 row (not a column) and that I checked everything, I am confident that the problem isn't with the u20 chip. Also every single thing functions properly other than the switches in row 5

#4 4 years ago

Have you excluded the CPU board by directly jumping (shorting) the row 5 pin to any column pin in the switch tests?

#5 4 years ago

On a SlugFest I had 2 of the switch connectors had battery alkaline in them. I cut and replaced them.
Getaway is a great game, just picked on up.

#6 4 years ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

Have you excluded the CPU board by directly jumping (shorting) the row 5 pin to any column pin in the switch tests?

I have not but I will try this when I get home tonight

#7 4 years ago

Found this: says u13 looks to have cleared his row 7 out problem.

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#8 4 years ago
Quoted from Haymaker:

I replaced u19 and i went ahead and did u20 as well since it had some very minor corrosion.

There is a lot of really good advice in this thread already; the corrosion part has me a little concerned here as this issue seems very similar to one I worked in the past that turned out to be a corroded through hole on one of the resistors. I would check your resistance from J208/209-5 to U19-11 (black lead on J208 side). If unsure about the readings just compare it with readings from another row...they should be the same.
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#9 4 years ago

Thanks guys I'm excited to get home and try some of this stuff out, I'll report back with my findings and hopefully good news

#10 4 years ago

Well i figured out the problem. I started to focus on the u13 chip but luckily stopped when I realized I didn't have any spares laying around. Taking what I know knew about u13 though, i started tracing it backwards with the meter. Eventually i came across a bad trace.

Now mind you, this trace did not look bad at all. I never ever would have guessed just by looking at it. The spot was nearly microscopic, but i trusted what the meter was telling me.

I scraped away a little bit of it on the spot i thought was bad (you can see where i scraped it if you look close in the picture), but i decided i didn't want to take the chance actually trying to repair the trace for now. So sadly, I'm just running a jumper wire for the time being. Its a little ghetto, but it works and it's eadily reversible if i want to attempt repairing the trace in the future.

Thanks for all the help, honestly i would not have been even looking in this area without your guidance. Game works great now!

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#11 4 years ago
Quoted from Haymaker:

Now mind you, this trace did not look bad at all. I never ever would have guessed just by looking at it. The spot was nearly microscopic, but i trusted what the meter was telling me.

Great find, I can see the break in your picture and it is very tiny for sure, if you hadn't highlighted it I probably still wouldn't have seen it.

#13 4 years ago

Thanks for posting this. Great job .

#14 4 years ago

That’s what happen to mine ended up with a jumper wire from one chip to another but I did the repair on the back of the Board which just looks better. Out of sight out of mind. Ghetto maybe but it works good find.

#15 4 years ago
Quoted from bssbllr:

That’s what happen to mine ended up with a jumper wire from one chip to another but I did the repair on the back of the Board which just looks better. Out of sight out of mind. Ghetto maybe but it works good find.

You're right the back of the board would be easy and hidden. Oh well. It is what it is for now until i get a better soldering station with some tips where i can repair the trace easily

#16 4 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Great find, I can see the break in your picture and it is very tiny for sure, if you hadn't highlighted it I probably still wouldn't have seen it.

The break was actually much much smaller than what you see in the picture. I just scraped away the trace a bit to do a little more testing and to see if i wanted to attempt actually fixing the trace.

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