(Topic ID: 78179)

Getaway Club ~ Dispatch, run a make on license plate KINGPIN


By MrSanRamon

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 9,910 posts
  • 369 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 hours ago by JDHHoover
  • Topic is favorited by 171 Pinsiders

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Linked Games

Topic poll

“Which S/W Version do you use?”

  • L1 17 votes
    6%
  • L2 138 votes
    51%
  • L3 8 votes
    3%
  • L5 93 votes
    34%
  • P7 7 votes
    3%
  • C-C 7 votes
    3%

(Multiple choice - 270 votes by 269 Pinsiders)

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#94 5 years ago

I purchased the L2 EPROM chip and I'm debating whether or not to change my ROM from L5 to L2. If and when I decide to do it, is it just a matter of shutting the game off, pulling the L5 EPROM out and replacing it with the L2 EPROM? Thats it...turn the game back on and the new ROM should just work? If I dont like it, can I just change them over again and be back to L5? Any advice or other steps I need to do to make this swap would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

3 weeks later
#155 5 years ago

I don't know how some of you can can keep that cheesy alternate chicks translight on. The original is much better in my opinion, not that I don't like hot women, but there is no place for it on a pinball machine unless it's Playboy or something.

2 months later
#248 5 years ago

So back to the original poll question. I have version L5 and thinking about changing to L2 but I'm still not quite sure what the major changes were from version to version. In older posts it is mentioned that the "run the red light" sequence or animation is missing from L5 but am I missing something? When you lock all 3 balls to start multiball my machine starts the beacon and the animation starts "this is 504, suspect ran a red light, apprehend the suspect" and multiball. So what is the difference on the L2 version please?
As with a more recent version the game play is supposed to be better, so shouldn't L5 be better. This really needs to be cleared up so people can know the differences between the versions, that old thread is NOT very clear.

#255 5 years ago

"Run the red light stuff" on L2, wish I knew what that looked like. Does anybody have a Getaway in the Denver area that is running L2 so I could see it myself and make a decision? Or even a video of this sequence would help too. Thanks!

#257 5 years ago
Quoted from DaveH:

It is music and dots. So when the red light is lit, it does it. And it's cool if you are starting the ball with it lit because the music change is nice. If you really want to just try it, I notice you own the game. So the ROM is only 10 bucks from John Wart.
http://www.thatpinballplace.com/eproms/wpc.html
Of course, you will lose all your settings and high scores, but different ROMs are always fun to try.

Secret Mainia can make the game forget what is locked, and I think it then thinks you already had multiball and no longer grants lights on the supercharger ramp. It's frustrating because it never seems to straighten out after that. L-5 runs fine.

I already have the ROM, just reluctant to change it, I suppose I can always go back to L5 if I don't like it. Thanks.

8 months later
#682 4 years ago

Isn't this adjustable in settings somewhere?

3 weeks later
#730 4 years ago
Quoted from Jgaltr56:

Hey HS 2 owners, I plan to look at one today that's for sale and was wondering what you would look for if you were going to purchase again? I plan on taking the glass off and running through the test menu, look for board hacks, etc. Are there any other functional tests you would try? Any problem areas to look for specifically that would affect the price? Finally, what is the going price range? Thanks in advance for your help.

Yes definitely check the supercharger and diverter for correct operation. There is a supercharger time or test mode in the menu. It's hard to find these without a lot if cabinet fade too. I'd say $2k for a decent one, over $2.5K for a nice unfaded fully functional machine.

#747 4 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

I had to get one of those after the 3rd or 4th thunk. Very annoying when you have a good game going. Definitely get one - cheap, easy to install, and it does the job.

Where does this install? Right above diverter? And does it fix the problem? Pics? Thanks.

5 months later
#1160 4 years ago

Really cool mod!

3 months later
#1652 3 years ago

How do you tie the led strips in the slings under the gauges? Would like to see how that looks is it somewhere in this thread already? Thanks.

2 weeks later
#1699 3 years ago
Quoted from BigDan:

I wanted the most light output while keeping the High Speed series specific caps so I went Evo Brite caps. They have 34+ LED's, are dimable and can be reactive.
IMG_2959_(resized).JPG
bc_evo-4_(resized).jpg
Anyone else sometimes feel like they should keep their mods on the DL so a bunch of people don't copy your unique one of a kind perhaps pin should you go to sell? IDK, when I mod my vehicles I don't usually go on the forums and show them off so people wont copy but that was in the past I don't seem to be that way with pinball, I probably should be though, because I have aspirations of doing some sort of modding/restoration online content review, but I don't know how I want to approach it just yet.

Question on those Evo Brite caps, they provide light underneath on the playfield as well as top lighting? Same color on both sides? Looks nice!

#1720 3 years ago

Rebuilt my ramp assembly today and now when the ramp is in the up position, the ball hits the bottom of the ramp going either way. There is some adjustment on the arm that lifts the ramp but the pin that lifts the ramp and the nylon nut to hold it to the arm are basically at the very end of that arm. It was not like this before I rebuilt the unit. I'm wondering if the actual arm was a little shorter that the one I had in there? I tried adjusting the armature spring to allow the arm to raise a little more, but not really working. I suppose I can just leave the pin to the ramp on the very tip of the arm and it clears but doesn't seem right. Any insight or something I over looked is much appreciated. Thanks.

2 weeks later
#1730 3 years ago
Quoted from yonkiman:

The up (latched) ramp height is set by the "catch" on the left of the bottom plate of the small relay (see pic below). You can change the height at which the ramp is latched by moving the entire small solenoid assembly to the right. Loosen the Philips screw at the top of the small coil and move the latch assembly to the right. There's also some small amount of play where the "catch" attaches to the moving plate by two philips screws. Loosen those screws (you'll need to remove the small relay assembly by removing the big Philips) and slide the "catch" as far to the right as you can. With everything pushed to the right, I have more than enough height for the ball to pass under the ramp without interference. But if it's TOO high, the ramp may not latch in the UP position (I explain more below). You may have to find the right "middle ground" setting.
HS2_ramp_(resized).jpg
The only other thing I can think of is adjusting the height of the ramp pin on the top of the playfield but it sounds like you've already tried messing with that.
You may run into the problem I currently have - when the latch/catch is set so that the UP ramp height is high enough to clear the ball, the UP solenoid (the big one) doesn't seem to go far enough to get the ramp high enough to latch. It latches fine manually (by pulling in the large solenoid's plunger manually), but fails when using the solenoid. I can get it to latch by lowering the ramp height, but then I have the same problem you do - the ball hits the ramp. Hopefully you won't have this issue. It's not clear to me what my problem is. We took slow motion of video of the ramp trying to go up, and the arm/pin assembly is rocking from side to side a lot - it could be creating friction/stiction that slows the ramp going up so it doesn't get high enough before the solenoid turns off. This is a really finicky mechanism...
Anyway, I hope this helps and that you have better luck than I've been having!

Awesome, thanks, I never thought about moving the small coil. The 2 screws that you mention to adjust the catch, in the picture the screws are underneath that assembly, so if I remove the big screw on top of the coil I can remove that assembly to get to the screws underneath right? Can I do this all with the playfield fully raised and without removing wires to that assembly?

1 month later
#1785 3 years ago

I'm having an issue when a ball ends and goes to the first trough switch, game does not notice end of ball. Game sits there and goes through the ball locate until it finally notices the ball ends and goes to the next ball. I go into switch check and that switch seems to be working fine, what could be the reason it does not notice end of ball immediately?

#1787 3 years ago

I did do that. All switches in test test fine. The shooter lane switch tests good also and as soon as a ball is ejected into the shooter lane you can manually plunge the ball as usual. It has to be something with the outhole switch #55 as it doesn't register a ball in the outhole, but tests good? Maybe I just need to adjust it?

#1792 3 years ago

Interesting, I'll have to change the balls and see what happens. I'll update once I do. Thanks.

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