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gentlemen, new club member as of yesterday here. what's the top 3 or 5 things you guys do to these things? i was thinking speakers, since the sound is pretty crappy. does a kit make a big difference?
how's the install with a powered sub? basically factory fit just with a power cord or you talking external?
is it just me or are the callouts and various sound effects way louder than zz top? it's almost like my sound isn't right or i have a bad speaker.
anybody want to be a dear and give me the wire colors on the start button? most specifically, i'm missing the one on the right side, which i think is causing it not to light up. i made the mistake of ordering a new button before actually looking at it...
these wires go to a connector on a board (a-14689) that's on the left cabinet wall under the flipper.
white/orange to j6-2
red/(purple/black?) to j6-4
green/purple to j6-7
at the bottom of that second pic, the yellow/green wire is loose, not connected. easy fix? is that what i'm missing?
anybody have a "mud flap" for the lock ramp? i'm also missing that post next to the pop bumper. obviously, the plastic on top is cracked...
i just noticed that i can start a game before the multiball locks drain, which causes my game to go in search mode. pretty annoying. is that fixed with newer software maybe?
Quoted from jdb9294:
I am running L5 and if I hit the start button quickly after a game my machine goes into search mode as well.
exactly. there's a few secs between the time the lock releases and the balls get registered in the bottom trough that this happens.
if l5 does it, that makes me sad.
game rom q. i go into test and it says rev p-c, then sound l-1 2.22, 3/24/92. does that mean i'm running prototype p-c?
i've seen visors that mount at the top of the main cabinet, where the playfield glass top trim is, in order to block glare from the backbox on the glass. that'll straighten you out.
quick question about scoring. i have a prototype rom and i feel like i don't get any points unless i hit a jackpot. i may get 15-20 million without a multi-ball jackpot; 50-60 with one. does that sound right? seems pretty lopsided. my old DM and current WCS score way better, imo. could it just be the rom?
yeah, i'm not comparing high scores or anything. just feels like scoring distribution should be better. maybe i'm on crack.
is there suppose to be a sticker on the plunger lane apron extension? it looks naked.
not sure about the point total, but i set special for points, replay for extra ball, then disable match.
Quoted from jsyjay:
Joined the club yesterday!
Playfield and plastics are near mint, flippers a bit weak and cabinet is faded and tatty so will have decals and all metalwork black powder coated at some point to make it 100%
Flipper rebuild kit, LED's, Mezel mods Donuts Heaven and alt translite ordered.
cancel the alt translite order and you can stay .
Quoted from Sticky:
What other games do you guys have that you like as much as Getaway?
Honestly, I just love this pin. It's pinball perfection IMO. Hard to find anything else that brings me as much joy or is as fun. I just love the theme and the shots.
exactly. i try not to have more than 1 game from the same designer. HS2 is my current steve ritchie. if i run into a nice, cheapish SM or STTNG, i'll make the swap one way or the other. variety is the spice of life.
what's usually the issue when the ball is hitting the divertor as it opens? is my divertor slow or is the sc too fast?
Quoted from Sticky:
Been enjoying my Getaway but with game after game after game a couple minor problems popped up.
The flipper button on the left is harder to press in than the one of the right. How do I make it go in more smoothly/easily?
The ramp for the lock is going up and down randomly at times. It works fine but sometimes it just has a mind of its own. Why?
The plunger isn't as strong as it once was. The same with the kickback. How do I resolve this?
flipper buttons get dirty. any part that human hands touch, basically. try taking it apart and cleaning. the spring could have gotten out of position, too. doubt it though.
are you sure it's random? it'll go up to allow orbit shots coming in from the right to not get stuck, and it goes up on new ball plunges.
check for loose screws on assembly/bracket parts. make sure everything is tight. check coil sleeves for sludge. stuff like that.
i've seen mine hit the tunnel kickout once, i believe. i didn't think it was worth troubleshooting, but i guess it would be pretty cool.
1 - on
2 - is it a bayonet or wedge style bulb?
3 - spring missing? i assume it's just one side.
are you pulling the playfield towards you first? it locks when you pull it as far as it goes towards you, then you push it up 90 degrees.
you have to be semi-forceful with it, and the click is almost a thud. you'll hear two of them simultaneously.
lift up the playfield about a foot, so nothing hits the front of your cabinet. make sure you have enough slack in wiring to the backbox. not sure what else it could be.
you can switch bulb+socket with another that's working to see if the issue stays with those or the pcb socket. if i was betting, however, you probably just need to reflow solder on the male pins on that board, like tilt's been saying.
yeah, definitely looks good.
yeah, i usually check myself with the game manual or a parts website before trying to explain something.
i'll have to inspect mine. i never hit the tunnel kickout. thanks for the info.
buy one of these:
get a pc tool kit and then a general homeowners tool kit.
for spare parts, i just order extra when i know i need something specific. sometimes you'll get a bulk discount. i've got a pretty good stash now in less than a year. i wouldn't buy a bunch of stuff blindly.
f' that. that's another pin!
i have all the sockets i need in my two tool kits. i highly recommend a pistol grip tool to use them, if you can find one.
Quoted from Djshakes:
Thinking of joining the club. I know a guy that has one for $2400 locally shopped and no fade. Worth driving an hour to get it?
if it doesn't need anything, i mean anything, i'm okay with that.
check for burnt gi connectors: j120, 121. check main cabinet speaker for dry-rotting. make sure shooter plunger is correct part, and it works properly. it should go around the short loop over to the top right flipper everytime. check boards for acid damage and burnt resistors/blown caps. test supercharger and divertor thoroughly. look for broken plastics. check for pop bumper, ball lock ramp and tunnel shot wear. make sure the ball lock ramp still has a flap riveted on. test the kickback. make sure flippers feel good. if it doesn't have led's, see if you could get those thrown in, even if you have to install them. i could go on and on.
long story short, it better be real nice.
i hate messing with flippers. tightening that damn nut on the hammer/crank assembly sucks.
they all say diamond plate, but you're right about different companies doing the actual clear-coating.
7/16", i believe. just order a kit. it's good to have extra, plus shipping($) kills you with frequent pinball part orders.
my bet is gummed up diverter, slowing the action. disassemble, clean, do not lube.
i don't know if you can manually set grand champ to 0. that's probably just the default after a reset.
it's tough to really get into it, if stuff's not working properly. you'll get there.
you would know if it was hitting the plastic. if it only hits something on the final loop when the diverter is closing, then it's not the plastic.
oh, i see. i thought you were the one scoring 6 billion.
i agree. when i felt like i had a good game, it was a couple hundred million. a jackpot or two; extra ball or two. not a world record or anything. i was on L5, default scoring. extra ball instead of extra credit. points for special.
it's like anything else. i used to golf a lot and got the shits of people telling me what they shoot, then going out and playing with them watching them cheat for 18 holes.
i'd say it's safe to assume no two pins are setup the same on here, so you'll never be able to really compare scores, unfortunately. it's not really cheating, but there's a million ways to setup the scoring, etc.
yeah, it would cost a couple bucks, max, to make. creating the mold would be the hardest part. guess you'd have to have one to make copies. people would be lined up. are there copyright issues?
anybody that just wants one for their own, hell, paper mache something together. i think that would be kind of fun.
quick comment about game collection size: having similar system games is real nice when troubleshooting or putting like assemblies back together. i have swapped boards between wpc's for testing purposes. you also have a backup, if (when) your game is out of order and you really need that itch scratched.
between the coil sleeve down there, i assume some kind of linkage and general gunk buildup, that's where i'd look.
had the same issue on mine before i sold, and my plan was to rebuild the diverter. was not looking at the optos at all. like you said, if they work, they work. that was my philosophy.
to test, go into switch test, then move the flipper bat up with your fingers. the eos switch should register right at the top of stroke.
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