(Topic ID: 78179)

Getaway Club ~ Dispatch, run a make on license plate KINGPIN

By MrSanRamon

6 years ago

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#1638 4 years ago

I'm not really a fan of the Donut Heaven mod but I like the look of this decal; does anyone know where to get this decal?


#1649 4 years ago

Added some of the Titan Comp silicone rings and Comet's Matrix LEDs... I switched out the Star posts with colored ones and made the slings flash blue.




#1651 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Nice.....now ya gotta get a couple of Comet 3 led 6.3v white strips for under the 2 gauges on top of the slings. You'll be amazed how they make the pf pop.

Thank you. I saw that mod, was that on your machine? It looked really nice

2 weeks later
#1674 4 years ago
Quoted from BigDan:

Shhhh, keep that for mod on the DL to keep it extra special. Just kidding as this member knows whats up by his LED selection skills. He did green and red LED star posts where needed and kept the GI in white just like I did because green cop cars and street signs look lame.
I dig the color DMD but what happened to your Getaway specific pop bumper caps

I agree with what you said about green/red signs and cop cars looking "lame" when colored by LEDs and you have a sharp eye when it comes to the pop bumper caps! I have the originals but I was playing around with these starburst caps, I liked the way they threw out the light on that part of the playfield, it gives it a little more brightness, and the bulb doesn't standout like in the originals. Someday I may switch it back but for now I'm liking the extra pop while still retaining a semi-original look (nice catch).

#1675 4 years ago
Quoted from bumpnthump05:

Here is a picture of mine I got a couple weeks ago completely led with a mountain mod that I just added

Hey, welcome! But I have to ask... where did you get that Mountain Mod? I've been looking but I thought that run was sold out and I haven't seen any pop up for sale.

BTW, I like the Neo Geo Arcade, good stuff!

#1680 4 years ago

Edit: Nice Arcade collection, the game room looks nice!

Thanks for the info, I'll see if I can touch base with him and get one to try out...

As for the Arcades, here's mine, I cheated a bit due to space and at the time when I bought this Ultracade pro with the 27" screen it seemed like a good option. Now crammed with 265 games into one unit is sweet but it's a dead end platform and I think we all know what happened with the creator.

The Neo Geo cabinet was trashed so I restored it and moded the control panel and front end. I had to de-case a 24" Sony Trintron for the monitor because I didn't like the fit or image of an LED especially with the old school games and I couldn't find a CRT to buy. I added my custom built PC so the unit acts like a Mame but honestly we just use it a music player.

It's funny because I was a vidkid back in my day and spent most of time in the Arcades. Pinball was the 2nd love but has now grown to my 1st, too bad they are so large and expensive! Oh well...


#1683 4 years ago

Huh, I'm not sure how I did that but I'm sure it's one of my more intelligent posts.


#1688 4 years ago

Yeah Im hard of hearing now, I can't imagine what that would do to me. Lol, awesome!

These are the Starburst caps with Comet twin smd red bulbs. The red matrix post lights add just enough to the hairpin turn but I'm tempted to add an led strip under the super charger...

Edit: frosted twin smd red bulbs


#1696 4 years ago
Quoted from BigDan:

Anyone else sometimes feel like they should keep their mods on the DL so a bunch of people don't copy your unique one of a kind perhaps pin should you go to sell? IDK, when I mod my vehicles I don't usually go on the forums and show them off so people wont copy but that was in the past I don't seem to be that way with pinball, I probably should be though, because I have aspirations of doing some sort of modding/restoration online content review, but I don't know how I want to approach it just yet

I don't feel that way but I understand if you do; however, if that's the case many mods wouldn't even be available for sale like the Mt. Mod on your machine, they could have made just 1 for themselves and been done. The CFTBL has some of the best and most tasteful mods I've seen and it would be a shame if we never got to see them... I'm glad the pinball community is very open with this and very helpful, IDK, where my machines would be if it weren't for all the technical help I've gotten from Pinside

3 months later
#2019 4 years ago
Quoted from Mancave:

My machine never had a sticker in that spot when i bought it, was that a normal item on Getaways NIB?

Quoted from jawjaw:

No. It was just blank like the ball lock cover. I cut up a hazard stripe bumper sticker and covered both covers on mine.

Yeah, the only sticker I know of is this one in front of the front pop bumper under the super charger brace...


#2074 4 years ago

It's a little hard to tell in my pic because I have an LED star post light but to my knowledge it's 2 star posts side by side...


#2080 4 years ago

The 2nd photo is correct... or at least that's the way my machine is setup.


#2082 4 years ago

The way I read this it's a star post


#2084 4 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

No I remember reading that a star post is how it was designed. Owners have modified it in different ways to make the shot easier.

Yes! I like the lit star post. I'm going to do all mine in red. How is the wire ran? The led sits underneath the star post right? So where does the wire get ran through? Does it just clip on to GI?

I'll give you more details if needed when I have more time but it's a Comet 4 LED star post light in Bright White, I thought the Red was too dull, I ran the wire through the hole under the plastics and soldered it into a GI string.

#2085 4 years ago

I love these LED Star Post Lights and used them is several spots but I don't think I over did it...

A few bits of advise,

1. I used a Dermel and thinned down the inside wall of the star posts so the light would fit snuggly inside the post
2. I put a notch on one side of the Star Post so it would sit flat on the base of the LED plastic circle and sit flush on the PF
3. I sanded the "nipple" off of the top of Star post so the plastics would sit level on ALL the posts

I used some for additional lighting in dark areas that are always on and used some in the slings as additional flashers,
the Blue are used as Flashers and the Green and Red are always on in the GI strings



#2088 4 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Wow a lot of work but they look GREAT!

lol, it sounds like a lot of work but it only take a few minutes; however, you do not need to take these steps but I found it gave me the best results.

#2133 4 years ago

This is where I decided to only light the outside star post, the light from the bulb under the plastics lights the inside post well enough and I wanted to highlight lane, if you try and put these lights side by side under both posts the circuits will stick out into the lane. Perhaps you could attach them together somehow or Art at Comet could fashion a Manzier Star post light...

The top outside post is lit using a longer wire I soldered onto the circuit wire so I could run it under that elongated plastic and down through the hole under the SC ramp, I hope that helps...

DO NOT DRILL through your PF



#2134 4 years ago

This is where I notched the inside Star post so it could sit on top of that circuit and not stick out into the PF...

#2139 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

That German company has a better design of those, they fit entirely under the post with a small notch for the wires to come out....but they are as damn crazy expensive. Just drill a hole where it can't be seen, it won't hurt anything....the pf has holes all over it already.

It would be nice if these could fit under the entire Star post but there is no need to drill holes in the PF, even if it's not seen, there are plenty of existing holes that can be used by extending the wire lengths.


#2140 4 years ago
Quoted from steve1515:

About 3 months ago, I posted in this thread about two balls being put in my shooter lane sometimes at the start of a multiball. I never got anywhere with it until now. I can reproduce it. Before I start replacing any switches or other things, I'd like to see if this is in fact a bug in the software. I was hoping that maybe a couple of people on L-2 software could try this out and see if you see the same problem where two balls are put in the shooter lane.
Here are the steps to make it happen on my game. I did this with the glass off and documented it.
Software = L-2
1.) Power on and start a game.
2.) Hit 3 green stand ups and lock a ball.
3.) Hit 3 yellow stand ups and lock a 2nd ball.
4.) Light Red Line Mania (I just kept making left loops and shifting when needed. When supercharger mode started, I held up a flipper to time it out.)
5.) Hit 3 red stand ups to light the red light and enable the 3rd lock.
6.) Start Red Line Mania by shooting the supercharger.
7.) Get a ball in the hideout to get the jackpot, and drain the other 2 balls. (If the other two balls come back, just keep draining and keep only one ball in play.)
8.) Now, that Red Line Mania is over, start the regular multiball by shooting the hideout and observe the shooter lane. Two balls will be put in at the same time.
Can anyone reproduce the same results? If you guys can, then I'll know for sure it's a bug and not a switch problem.

Wow... that seems like a lot of effort (and I may get around to testing it at some point) but if you drain the balls I don't think they should come back to you, I could be wrong and usually am. I know if you enter Secret Mania with the L2 Rom there is a glitch that gives you endless Freeway balls and will just keep going... so annoying, but I've never seen 2 balls get put into the shooter lane.

#2145 4 years ago
Quoted from chubtoad13:

I really like L-1. It seems like it has less bugs than other versions. The varying supercharger amounts in L-2 is better, but other than that I don't see any benefit to go with L-2

I have both L1 and L2 and use the L2, never had many issues with either... aside from the secret mania issue I mentioned but that is avoidable so if you choose to enter that mode do so at your own risk.

#2152 4 years ago

Can't really tell if there is a blown fuse by looking at the board in a pic so you'll have to test them, I'd also look for a loose wire under the PF but if it's a ton of lights I'm sure it's a fuse or a wire... don't panic you'll find it and fix it up in no time.

#2153 4 years ago

I will say that is one nice thing about the newer boards or replacement boards, the LED lights indicate if the fuse is dead... but it won't matter you'll do it the old fashioned way. Do you have copies of the manual and schematics?

#2156 4 years ago

ok, this is far from my strong suit so I would point you to the Tech forums but do you have a multimeter?

If you do, you can test the fuses and if not you should get one...

#2169 4 years ago


I think that digital multimeter is all you will need.

Go through your manual for a complete fuse list and keep plenty of spare fuses on hand, slo-blow and fast blow as needed. If you don't have the manual you can get a digital PDF copy online to DL and they should be listed inside the backbox too.

If possible, I'd make sure that these lamps are split between the GI strings. LED do draw less power but you don't want to overload one string.

#2175 4 years ago

If you search the j120 you will see that the J120 is problematic, as I recall it controls several GI strings and is the one that usually gets cooked. Mine did but it's not just the molex, it's the pins on the back side of the board. I repaired my board by replacing the pins and replaced the molex and it continued to fail. I eventually bought a new board and rebuilt the molex connector and it's been trouble free since. LEDs will reduce the load but if its brown that could indicate the pins are failing too, you may want to check that out. If you repair the molex connectors and not the board it may continue to go bad. Hopefully the pins are ok.

#2178 4 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

All great info. How do I check to see if the pins are failing?

That's hard to say because there is no fool proof way with out taking off all the molex connectors and pulling the board. You could unpluging the connecter in question and touch the pins, if they wiggle and there's play they've probably been damaged. Also, you could try testing with your multimeter... if they are lose you should reflow them on the back side of the board, my board was too far gone and I had to replace it but that is a big expense and probably unnecessary. Just be careful because molex connecters that are burnt can crumble in your hands. If it were me, I would learn how to rebuild them and replace the female pins and the molex connector to avaoid any potential issues.

Quoted from jawjaw:

Like Paul said, connectors will be noticeably black/brown if something drew a lot of current like a short. That can melt the plastic connector and damage the pins on the board. The fix is to replace the connector and the pins. I had my connector replaced by did not replace the pins. Lights worked with new connector so didn't bother with the pins. Burnt connectors is pretty common when using incandescent bulbs. Shouldn't be an issue with leds unless you shorted something working on the game with the power on.
I would check all your fuses with the multimeter. They can be bad even when they look okay. Put your multimeter in continuity mode. Put the probes on both ends of the fuse and if the multimeter does not beep, the fuse is bad.

This is true, it may be over kill when using LEDs but they still have a load on them and if it's bad it probably would continue to get worse, especially if your adding all that additional lighting. If you only replace the connectors and do not repair the pins at some point the new molex could be damaged and the board could have gotten worse.


#2185 4 years ago

It's a matter of taste but I did not like the translucent rings, I went with colored rings from Titan, something about white light shining through the rubber didn't appeal to me. Maybe if you used colored LEDs then it would be ok but then there is color saturation on the plastics... but the sling is 2.5".

#2196 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Pull the fuses to check them, don't leave them in the game when checking.

And you do not need to have the machine on to test a fuse...

#2197 4 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Check your connectors. You more than likely toasted a connection at the pin. I did the same messing with alligators clamps connected to light strips. Now I never fiddle with anything without power off. Need to check fuses as well.

Quoted from Grinder901:

Thanks. I try not to fiddle with the lights off either but maybe I had something touching something it shouldn't have when I turned it back on.
If I did toast a connector as you said, what's the remedy? How do I check connectors?

Yes, this should be avoided...

#2199 4 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Ok I'll check all the fuses tonight, no beep means it's bad.
I pulled j120 and inspected the pin as well as the connector. Aside from slightly browning, they both appear ok. I'll have the connector replaced when I do the cabinet.

Good news!

You can test for the "beep" in continuity

You can test the resistance with the OHMS

#2204 4 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Well I tested all my fuses, Jesus there are a ton, like 25 of them, and they all had continuity

A ton of fuses is a good thing, it's more protection for your machine but I'm confused now, are there still issues with the lights or is that resolved?

#2208 4 years ago
Quoted from kilmarnock1350:

2 problems (connected?) (L2)
I keep getting "check top lock switch 74". It works correctly (as far as I can tell) during each switch test. Closed when closed, open when open.
Hitting the tunnel often results in an endless multiball that can last minutes. The machine keeps auto launching after drains.
Any thoughts>?

The machine will show an error if a switch isn't used after a certain amount of time but it will still function correctly. Go into test, T3: single switch and enter, cycle through to top lock switch 74, wiggle or hit the switch lever a few times until you hear it beep to clear the error. The switch is located on the right side, in the wire form ramp under the "Donut Heaven"...

I'm not sure what your other issue is, multiball will give you "Free Ride" lit for a certain amount of time but I think I would need more info on what's happening.

#2209 4 years ago


#2213 4 years ago
Quoted from steve1515:

Does this help? http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/1000/Williams_1992_The_Getaway_High_Speed_II_Parts_List.txt
I'm not sure if it's 100% accurate, but it looks pretty detailed.

Yeah, you're not kidding!

#2231 4 years ago

I love to mod my pin but I usually only do things that can be easily reversed... I just worry if I ever have to sell it (I'm actually thinking of this now, please tell me if I'm crazy) the buyer may want it stock.

#2254 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Probably 2 kinds of opinions here: 1) the purist and 2) the modder. Personally, I plan on enjoying my machine for years, and I want to put my own creative touches on it to make it unique as long as game play is not adversely impacted. If you are looking at the machine as an investment and plan to own it for a relatively short time then I would say keep it original along with any restorations being accurate to how the machine came. If you are like me, and plan to put it in your game room for years to come (maybe forever), then customize it, enjoy the projects while learning more about the machine, and have fun playing regardless of what anyone else may think about it. Just my 2 cents.

I have had this pin for 13 years and I fall in the middle, I want it to be more of a stock look but yet have mods, a sleeper if you will. If you're in this hobby to make money, you need a new hobby.

Having said that, I do think about the day when I may have to move on from my Getaway and the new GB is making me think it's time to sell, I think if you own it you do as you please but someday it may be time to move on and mods are very subjective. A tasteful mod, improvements and the like should help but others may not... bottom line, your money, your pin your choice.

#2267 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Well my Leg Light-Up are removable, just ask Grinder.

lol, Stangl! The funny thing is, I keep flip flopping about listing my pin because the GB is looking awesome and I'm not sure I can afford it without selling a pin but every time I start to post pics it makes me realize that my Getaway is pretty darn sweet, ugh!






#2269 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Has anyone replaced the incandescent bulb in the flash lamp with an led one? If so, which bulb did you use and how do you like it?

EDIT: there is no LED I can find for the Mars lamp.

All of them and I love the look!

906 in backbox


assorted colors 8 smd 90% of table


13 smd 10% of table



#2271 4 years ago

Pics above...

#2273 4 years ago
Quoted from alimerick:

I put following led light in Mars beacon from Superbrightleds.com about a year ago. It is plenty bright enough. 1156 LED Bulb w/ Stock Cover - 1 High Power LED - BA15S Retrofit - 1156 Red

I saw the automotive options but never tried it, if it works it's, and I don't know why it wouldn't, it's an option to consider. Thank you

#2282 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Yours looks soooo nice that I think you'd be kicking yourself if you sold it. I'd find another way of financing the GB pin. Sell your blood plasma???

lol! I have an option of buying a CFTBL that needs work and is a half the price of a Pro GB... but that GB looks awesome. I'll hold off until I can play it before I decide; however, I think you're right Stang, I don't know if I could/should part with the Getaway.

#2293 4 years ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

Even though you're done w/ the shop job, I have a cheap/easy mod you'll like:

I may be the oddball here but I like the color light bleed in my stop light... wierd, huh?

#2299 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Has anyone personally performed paint repairs on their play area? There is some regular wear and tear on my newly acquired machine, but there are also some very bad/noticeable paint chips around the flipper area. I've searched around and also been given some good advice on how to treat the area to prevent further damage, but I possibly wanted to actually "repair" the area (i.e. paint it as close to original as possible). Not really sure where to start, what kind of paint to use, best colors to use, etc. Any first had experience/advice with photos of results is greatly appreciated.

I have in the outhole area but I would refer you to this thread.


I used good a brush with good acrylic paints, clear coat, wax and them mylar.... I know it's not perfect but it's pretty darn good (IMHO) and will not wear out this time!



#2301 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Wow, that thread has some detailed restoration techniques. I was hoping to maybe plop down some black paint and call it a day (i.e. just looking for a temporary "fix" to color the bare wood). If I were to follow your model and use a high quality acrylic paint applied with a brush, what clear coat did you use and how did you apply it (brush, spray, other)?

Yeah, Vid is very detailed, he must do professional restorations...

I forgot that I did a very minor touch up a while back without putting the mylar on top of the area because it was not needed in the spot. I put a piece of plexiglass on top of the PF and mixed the colors so they would match.

I cleaned the area to remove any wax and/or dirt before priming it with a white primer.

I used a good fine tip paint brush that I bought at an art store so you wouldn't see brush strokes. I used good acrylic paints also from an art store (when shopping I learned that there are many grades of paint). Only use good paint because it dries the same color that it's mixed and shouldn't run or discolor when clear coated. I got clear coat and just brushed it on because the areas were so small.

The one photo is prior to sanding it with 800 grit sandpaper to level it out. Use automotive clear coat, that's what Vid recommended, not varnish or poly...

I hope that helps.


#2303 4 years ago

Go into menu, T:Tests, T4: solenoid test, cycle through to left sling and enter, have it on repeat. What happens?

Opto should not effect this, thats another issue. You may have to resolder the wires again or replace the opto, usually the black one (transceiver) that fails.

#2305 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Solenoid worked fine. Thanks for the support, but please see my edited post above.

Ok, good. See edited post about opto...

#2308 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Now my next problem I just noticed. 2 of the 3 pop bumper lights do not illuminate. Bulbs are verified good (switched with known working ones). Illumination test lights lower bumper but not upper 2.

Were these working before? Did you check the fuses? Do a test... Menu, T: Test, T:10 Lamps + Flashers, you may have more bulbs out than you realize. If not, check for loose wires. The pins and molex connecters on your driver board would be the next check. I'd have to look at my schematics to see what one powers them. Sometimes bulbs are finicky...but once corrected I would replace them with a good frosted twin SMD red bulb.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I just got a large order of parts in including all new optos. Looks like I have a soldering party in my near future.

You probably don't need to replace all the optos (but that's up to you) you can test for faulty ones in the super charger test. These optos work like the safety feature on your garage door opener, one shoots an inferred beam (transceiver), the other receives it, if one is off tilt or broken it won't register.

#2309 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Now my next problem I just noticed. 2 of the 3 pop bumper lights do not illuminate. Bulbs are verified good (switched with known working ones). Illumination test lights lower bumper but not upper 2.
Well, I discovered the cause of this. J120-1 and J120-2 GI power from main board connectors were burnt to a crisp. I disconnected the connector and put a meter on pins 1 & 7 then 2 & 8 and voltage was good (main board not damaged). Since I don't have one of these 11 pin connectors laying around, I broke off the burnt part of the connector, plugged the good part back in (included pins 7 & then fashioned plugs from speaker connectors. I then crimped freshly stripped pin 1 & 2 wires to the connectors, connected to J120, and voila! Not only did the broken pop bumpers illuminate, but so did several other bulbs. This should hold until I get the correct connector ordered.

I missed this... yes the dreaded j120, that's the one that usually fails. If the molex was burnt to a crisp there may be an issue with those pins or the printed conductive material on the back of the board. This what happened to mine, I replace the pin and reflowed the board but it didn't last so I bought a new driver board, rebuilt the connector, went to all LED and I've been trouble free.

The molex and female pins are available at Marco, Pinball life... You can repair them but if the driver board is damaged they will continue to fail. Converting to LED bulbs will help and new molex is better than that stuff they used 25 years ago and will last longer.


This site is very helpful... good luck!



#2311 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Thanks for all the great info. I am in the process of putting together my LED kit, so hopefully I too will not have to worry about such things very soon. I guess I will see how the board holds up before making the decision to replace it.

Yes, don't buy a board unless it's needed. repair the molex connecter, female crimp terminals and maybe male pins on the board...

I think that's an 11 pin






#2314 4 years ago

Agreed.. please nooooo!

#2318 4 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

The wife wouldn't approve either but what can I say, I'm a tit man.

Happy wife, happy life... and you have the internet

#2326 4 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Well damn, I was just going to use one 10 led strip for each side. And I just placed another order with Comet but didn't put any more strips in that order. Damn

Email Art at Comet, if it hasn't shipped yet I'm sure he will help. Awesome guy to deal with... he's on Pinside too, OLDPINGUY

#2329 4 years ago

I bought the matrix led light strips from Art for my Elvira machine and they can be trimmed down and cut to size, I removed 2 lights so it would fit where I wanted it to go.

#2335 4 years ago

Don't shift and avoid secret mania, I know I do, because it always messes up my games

#2358 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Oh yeah with black flippers I'm sure. Well now that Comet has the frosted strips they may help to make the reflection not be so noticeable.

These are nice, I used them on my Elvira for the Boogie men, frosted Ice Blue is pretty sweet...

#2362 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Well, just finished working all day to get my new pin in shape. All new shiny hardware (old stuff was oxidized), polished all plastics, cleaned all metal, new flippers and full rebuild on all 3, fixed supercharger by replacing an opto, playfield clean and wax, all new rubbers, several other minor things, and 3 new shiny balls. Now I just need to finish putting together my LED list, and I think I am done messing around for now, and can start enjoying playing it.
However, I did make one big mistake today when I went to polish what I thought was an aluminum supercharger. I can't tell you what kind of damage aluminum polish does to silver paint on plastic. Ended up having to scrub, sand, prime and paint both pieces. By look and feel, I could have swore it was aluminum, but clearly it is not.

That sucks but...

Quoted from MustangPaul:

That is actually a vapor deposit nickel on plastic, the same as R2D2's head on DE Star Wars not paint. Sorry to hear of your mistake but you can still buy a new one.



#2365 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

We can all relate to that but the problem is that if you don't get it now they may be out next week then who knows if they will ever get any more.

Agreed. Items like this game specific part, play fields, plastic sets.. are a limited run, once gone then they may be gone for a long time or for good.

General replacement parts, coils, switches, bulbs, pop bumper caps... are another story.

#2373 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Pinball life has this one, but I don't know if it is a fit or Not: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4197
Also, I've never rivited before, so I guess I need to figure that out.

I think that one is too long for the ramp.

Yes, you would have to rivet it, there are kits you can get but they aren't cheap but it's not a bad investment for the hobby.

#2376 4 years ago

Well after all this time I finally decided to get around to doing the "Mustang Paul" tach light mod, props to Stang because I saw his thread 1st... I made one minor adjustment and used the extra 4 led star post lights I had lying around for the up lighting, seemed logical to me because they are the same shape so why not give it a try.



#2382 4 years ago
Quoted from yonkiman:

That message basically means the pin s not seeing any activity on the top lock switch. That can mean one of two things:
1) There is a problem with the switch (or switch wiring), or
2) There is a problem with the ramp going up and locking
The pin can't tell the difference because the switch is the only way it can know if the ramp is up and locked.
In my experience, it's usually #2. Despite a ton of mechanical tweaking over a year or so, I still can't get the $!#*%!$! ramp to work reliably, so I'll often get a credit dot along with the switch error. But the switch is fine.

That's the "endless multiball" bug you get with the L-2 ROM. You could switch to L-5, but you lose a few features and potentially get a new bug). There's a comparison here:

I don't know, I suppose this is possible my pin will through a top lock or a middle lock error if I play like crap and the switch isn't used. The error is easily cleared as I mentioned in my earlier post, it's my understanding this was intentional.

#2383 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Those fit better then the strips. You did good.

Thanks Stang!

#2386 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I installed L2 last week since the pin had L1 when I acquired it, and my son just experienced the infinite multi-ball bug (we'll if 10 minutes or so counts as infinite) over the weekend. He was so proud of the score he had going after about 10 minutes of multi-ball, so he wasn't too happy when I just powered the machine off in the middle of his game. I figured there was no way I was letting the kid beat dad's high score, especially illegitimately!
We've probably hit the tunnel 100+ times since I installed L2, and this was the only time we've seen the issue.

I do not have any experience with this glitch but I have heard a few stories of it happening, when/if it happens again let it just drain and see how long it will last. I would hope there is an end to this without having to power off the pin. I'm also running L2 but I have the original L1 rom

#2394 4 years ago

That is the issue with Led lights, very subjective. It took me much more testing than I expected. Lamp location is pretty straight forward, write down the socket type and location.

I used frosted in the gi plastics, warm white under red tone and natural white in green tones. I used mostly colored matched faceted non ghosting in the color reflective inserts. Frosted natural white twin smd whites and color matched non ghosting in PF tach.

Back box was an experiment... I don't like over saturated colors so I used warm white and red behind the getaway every other one.

I made a manual of colors and bulb types I'd have to look for it but I over spent on bulbs playing around with it.

#2400 4 years ago

Looks good, it's amazing what some TLC will do for a machine.

#2401 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Thanks everyone. Just to clarify, I am not really looking for color choices, but types and quantities of each socket. I spent a few hours tonight and I think I've calculated correctly. I plan on double checking and deciding on bulb types and colors. Once I finish the project, I will post a listing for everything to help out others in the future.

This is to the best of my abilities, hopefully I got them all but...

Back Box
31 #555
5 #906 Flasher

PF Plastics
9#89 Flashers
34 #47

Lower PF inserts (Gears and below)
6 #47
1 #906 Flasher Fee Ride

Upper PF inserts (Above Gears)
2 #47
19 #555

3 #555 Pop bumpers
3 #555 Traffic light
2 # 555 Super Charger entrance
3 #906 Flashers Super Charger

This total is everything but the Mars light, start button and coin door...

94 #555
42 #47
9 #906 flasher
9 #89 flasher

#2405 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Looks like we are slightly off. Here is what I have after multiple visual inspections and going through test menus (I could have easily missed some):
Inserts: 69 (excludes start button but includes every insert light as stepped through in test mode)
Playfield GI: 30
Backbox GI: 30
Playfield Flashers: 12
Backbox Flashers: 5
My Total: 146 (excluding 3 jets since I have LED disks in them)
Your Total: 151 (excluding 3 jets)
Looks like you have:
- 1 additional #906 flasher
- 4 additional #44
- While our #555 count matches, you show 31 in backbox, but I think there are only 30 in backbox + 5 flashers
Probably my best bet is to buy a few extras just to cover possible short counting.

I'll revisit my number later but always buy more...

30 #555 in BB is correct.

3 #906 flashers in super charger and 1 under free ride = 4 plus the 5 in the BB total of 9 # 906

2 #89 in the slings, (2) on left side and (3) on the right side under the plastics and wire form ramps for a total of 5, plus 1 under super charger entrance ramp = 8 #89


#2406 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Seems like most go with frosted for playfield GI and clear/no dome for inserts? Comments on what pin owners have liked best?

I used some frosted in a few inserts, in particular the white PF inserts but I used clear twin smd faceted in the "faceted" color inserts and traffic light

#2408 4 years ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

They were all almost black!! A few of them you couldn't even see the lights through. They cleaned up really move though

Yikes! Good work... enjoy!

#2414 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I count 17 flashers too, but my free ride flasher is a #89 bayonet not a #906 wedge which flips my flasher numbers from yours. Thanks for all of your help. I agree, and am definitely going to buy extras but just want to make sure I am covered with appropriate types and colors.
I think I've spent more time on researching and planning LED's for my pin than last time I bought a house!

I used a Bendy 8 SMD #906 for the free ride... interesting that they are different.


#2417 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Great pic, and my idea also to use a flex bulb there. I know I checked multiple times, but maybe I had a brain fart on the bulb type. I will check again when I get home tonight.
P.S. I envy how clean your underside is - very nice.

Thank you! I've had this baby for about 13 years now so it's been in a home environment for more than half it's life. I've completely rebuilt all 3 flippers, coils, coil bracket, mechs, springs, sleeves and bushings, everything but the metal frame. I did the same with the shooter, everything replaced but the frame, hopefully this will last a long time.

#2421 4 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

Now lets keep things clean boys. This is a respectable site !


#2428 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Okay, I am getting ready to order my LEDs and wanted to also order some custom lighting for various areas (kick-out saucer, sling tachs, back area, spot for mountain plastic, behind flippers, etc.) My only question is how do I wire these into the lighting system? Do I just find another light on the GI circuit and splice into its wires? Should I solder them or connect them in some other fashion?

I would not splice wires but...

Options from Comet:

1. the new Matrix system with alligator clips so you don't have to solder them. Go there to see the parts and wires available
2. Solder them directly onto an existing lamp (that's what I did, make sure flashers are with flashers and GI are with GI).

#2431 4 years ago
Quoted from rottenrobert1313:

I used the comet connection that goes into an another lamp socket when adding 3 LED strips. I don't like the alligator clips. I worry that they'll come loose and short something out. If I had to use them then I'd just clip and solder the wires in.

That's an option too, the only issue I had with them is that the light is only 1 smd and doesn't have enough brightness for my liking. The clips are pretty strong and are insulated, I used one for a short period of time with no issues but I decided to solder the wires after I sure about my mods.

#2433 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Woohoo! Just placed my LED order at Comet. Can't wait to get everything in and liven up this pin! Thanks for all the great support and mod ideas. I purchased all LEDs for entire pin including backbox and coin door (just no LED for red lamp on top of box). Also, I got everything to add lighting to back of playfield, ball catch between flippers, spot for mountain/tunnel plastic in back right, below supercharger ramp sign, left and right sling tachs, drive 65 plastic, and red kick-out disk (I did buy a few accessories at Pinball Life to complete things - light sockets, flood assemblies, etc.)
All of this plus several extra bulbs for less than the cost of a kit from all of the providers I looked it. It was definitely work figuring out everything and customizing the lighting to my taste, but a big thanks goes to the members of this forum and to a pinhead friend who has helped me out tremendously.
Before/after pics surely to come was the transformation takes place. Also, once I get all of the lights in and verify everything, I plan on posting my lamp spreadsheet for those who may want to mod their Getaway in the future. For me, the hardest part was validating socket types and quantities of everything, and this would have been a big help.

Good luck. Enjoy!

Just take your time and try not to mess around too much with the pin powered on, it's hard to resist, but it could prevent any possible short or worse...

#2442 4 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

LEDs really brings this game to life. You will not be disappointed. You might want to turn off dimming otherwise you might get some flicker.

That's great advise, I did that too because there is no dimming with these bulbs, glad you brought that up.

#2453 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Hey that's pretty cool, I like it. Just a suggestion here, put some cops sitting at tables along with a couple other customers and maybe a waitress with a tray and maybe slant the sign so when the paper lays flat it looks like the sign is standing straight up. How many layers is your picture?

Not bad but here is the one that came with some plastic set, or so I was told... I have not been able to make this work, maybe you can.


#2455 4 years ago

No, I'm not good at any of that stuff, heck I can't even get it to be the correct shape! I wish I could replicate this one, it 's the right graphics and theme, plus I do not like the plastic model Donut Heaven. Having said that, there is something I like about the chrome plate reflecting the lights...

#2466 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Spent a little more time on it tonight, here is the updated version.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Probably more work than I am willing to put into it right now, but I am happy to share the Photoshop files with you if you would like to customize to your liking.

Thanks! Looks good but I still want to try and remake the other one. I like the "cartoonish" theme... I'm thinking I'll try to capture a pic from my colorDMD to work with.

#2473 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Okay, I just finished complete LED upgrade (have not added all my extras yet, just the standard illumination), and I must say "wow!" I cannot believe how awesome the updated lighting makes the pin look. I am going to put together before/after shots, as well as a bulb guide for those of you wishing to upgrade to LED, but are too intimidated to put together your own kit (much more affordable this way).
However, I have one HUGE problem now. I did all of my flashers first, and every one of them tested perfectly. Then I did GI, back box, and finally inserts. When I was done I proceeded to test everything and all illumination works except now none of the flashers will work. I tested all the fuses, did a visual of the circuit boards and connections, but I cannot figure out what I did to kill the flashers. Any ideas here would be greatly appreciated. Very frustrating to get all of this work done with the pin looking great, but the flashers all stopped working even though they worked when I tested them after initial LED upgrade.

None of the flashers work?

Is this only the case in test mode?

#2478 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I've never had to do that before when testing them, and when I do try there is no change.
None of the flashers work at all in test mode or in game play.

Sorry to hear about the problems but I'm sure we can get you fixed up. I'll have to look at the schematics later when I have time to see if all flashers are on the same string but...

1. Check for a broken wire trace the string to/from the back box
2. Check all your fuses, you mentioned you had done this but how did you test them?
3. Check your molex connections are solid and make sure all the wires are firmly connected, sometimes they will become loose and not make contact with the pins in the board
4. Check the board and pins are all working correctly, no loose or broken pins
5. Check high voltage board, caps, fuses and such....

All this will be much easier when you/we can determine what string and connector these are associate with but in the meantime you should post something in tech forum. I have to go and don't know when I'll have time to look into this, maybe later today or tonight.

#2481 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Well, my flasher issue ended up being a simple one. With the help of a forum member, he instruction me to look at LED 5 on the main board. It was not lit which signifies a circuit break. I replaced F111 (even though I thought I had tested it as good) and LED 5 immediately LIT and so did flashers.

Good news. Just curious, how are you testing fuses? Are you using a multi-meter?

#2483 4 years ago
Quoted from pindan3:

Trying to describe the flasher and mod issue is a bit confusing here....I just know when the mod is hooked up it makes the red light on top try to work constantly, like...(yea the like word" lol...).everytime you hit a pop bumper or a sling the topper slightly flashes with it. And if I put a normal flasher in the back box ( where the 5 go ) it will get real bright and make a coil fire where the donut shop mod is. And I'm probably still not getting my message across in right way, So we have this guy in our area "atari Jim " who is REALLY good at tracing this stuff. So I guess I will load it up one day and have hime do his magic, He hates MODs though....LOL...

I would bet you've got some crossed wires or maybe something got attached together in those strings causing everything in those strings to engage when one of the parts are triggered. This of course is just a guess but I once had some solder drop on two separate stings basically making the two strings one... this was on some standup targets and GIs, the only way I realized it was three lights would blink at the same time and then when one target was hit all three would register.

Quoted from Mancave:

Must admit i've never heard of this happening before. When a coil activates (pop bumper, sling) it makes the mars lamp temporarily flash? I doubt that the actual mod would be causing this issue but some quick questions if i may. Are these the blue flasher mods from Mezel mods (1 either side of the mars lamp) we are talking about? Were the flashers already attached when you got the machine or you attached them yourself, did you follow the instructions provided to the letter? I could show a pic from my machine how it's all wired in but i also have 2 cop cars attached to the mars lamp circuit so it has a double splitter in the wiring, i don't want to confuse the issue. This has got me stumped i must say, as far as i know the mars lamp isn't directly connected to the coil circuit. Is there any effect when you hit the flipper buttons?

Good point, if you did not install these mods you cannot be sure how or where they were connected into the machine. You could look to see how these are attached to the pin.

#2486 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Well, I was actually testing fuses in-socket. But I assure you, I have learned my lesson given all the grief my error caused me. Thank you all for your advice and getting me back up and running. I cannot believe the difference LEDs make. It is like an entirely different pin now.
As I stated earlier, my plan is to do a write up and inventory of bulb types, sockets, etc. that I used to help out future LED conversions for others on this pin, along with before/after pics. Since I fully customized my LEDs (did not buy a kit), I put several hours into figuring everything out. To my surprise, I was only off one bulb where somehow I had logged it as a #555 when it was actually a #44. Fortunately, I had purchased a couple of extras of each type, so now I am 100% LED. My next steps are to install the mod lighting features that I purchased (tachs, back of pin, mountain spot, et. al.)

Pinside is great for support, especially in the tech sections, some of these guys are just insane with the knowledge they have, it has helped me become pretty good at doing most repairs myself and if I don't know how to fix it there is usually someone who does know.

At this point I'm thinking about buying a few bargain basement pins that I've found and try to fix them up, I almost enjoy fixing and tweaking the machines as much as I like playing them; however, I do not claim to know more my limited experiences with my 2 pins but I think it would be a fun project bringing a pin back to life...

Anyway, I'm glad it has worked out for you, enjoy the "new" machine!

#2487 4 years ago

Meh... too much glare but I'll play around with them



#2493 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Thanks, and consider me educated. After Googling, I now understand how diodes differ from resisters, and that they are directional. Nobody told me I was going to have to use my brain so much when I bought a pinball machine.

Good job and yes, baby steps... we all started at the same place but soon you will be fixing stuff left and right, because

1. You'll have to
2. You aren't afraid to try anymore
3. You'll go broke paying someone to fix it for you and grow old waiting for them

#2502 4 years ago

I'd watch out for super bright white flashers in the slings, you may go blind with all that light...

#2511 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

BTW, cudos to Art at Comet Pinball. Great knowledge and exceptional customer service. Also highly patient with newbies like myself.

Yes, I hope whom ever bought his business does half the job Art did, he's a great business man and an even better person.

#2516 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Okay, I am about done with my mods now. Besides, I am a little board since my DMD controller board went out, and I need to order a new one tomorrow. Anyway, the last thing I want to do is add a diecast police car and Lambo. I think I have what I want picked out, and for now want to do it on the cheap (e.g. $10 each or so). I really think Mezel's fully lighted large police car is awesome, but just not in my budget right now. Therefore, my plan was to just put either a 3 LED strip or a post LED (Matrix from Comet) inside the cab of each model and connect to GI to have the inside lit for now.
Any thoughts/ideas on what others have done in this area?

I'm a less is more kind of person when it comes to modding my pin, I like the Donut Heaven decal, the colorDMD, color coordinated rubbers, some additional PF lighting and LEDs. I never got into adding cars and plastic models to the game, although the mountain mod is pretty cool and was actually a prototype for the pin but was cut due to costs. The decal on the shooter apron looks pretty good or maybe the cop talking into the radio saying "this time I'm going to nail that dirt bag"...

#2518 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Yeah, this is my first, so I am having some fun with it and also adding some stuff that my son likes (he is begging for the toy cars). The LEDs make all the difference in the world to me, and I can definitely understand the minimalist/purist approach when it comes to customize one's game.

Oh, yes... for myself only. I've seen sweet looking mods and stuff I wouldn't do but it's your pin so you should do what you like, especially if your son likes it. You should enjoy the hobby with him because someday he will be a pin head thanks to those times you shared together. Have fun with it!

#2522 4 years ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

Wonder why they aren't in this file, never noticed it.

My guess would be because it's part of the shifter and not cabinet decals...


S/O but may be worth an email

#2551 4 years ago

It looks like the left flipper is too low, I'll see if I can get a pic of mine flipped up but here is how mine are set


#2556 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Even with the mm or so adjustment, they are still way off from each other when extended.

Can you please post pics with the PF raised and pics of the underside of the flippers... coils, sleeves, springs and stops.

#2563 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Okay, so here are pics of my flippers.
1) down position (these are aligned straight to lane guides)
2) up position
3) under both
4) under left
5) under right

I'm not sure whats going on there based on the pics because I can only see these on my phone atm but do those coil bases have the little plastic nipple in the slot? Maybe they are moving? Were those coils that way when you purcahsed the pin and were the coil sleeves replaced?

#2581 4 years ago
Quoted from Slim64:

7 on mine. Nothing tweaked, has the fat or double post like many do at the loop entry

That is the correct post for that area, a double ring Star post. 7 loops is my best but idk when I did that, must of been a long time ago because 5 is my tops lately.

1 week later
#2600 4 years ago
Quoted from Bob86ZZ4:

I'm going to install my l.e.d. kit soon. Thinking about replacing all the rubber too. Anybody have advice what I should replace with? I need to buy a kit for it. Too much work for me to figure out all the stuff on my own. I'm thinking about those translucent ones? Thanks.

Titan Competition Silicone is the way I went, not a fan of the translucent but that's your call...


#2610 4 years ago
Quoted from n1teowl:

I've got an extra snow capped mountain mod that came with my new Getaway. It's already got one installed so I'm planning on selling the extra and am trying to gauge interest. It's the mod based on the original molds and I believe that there were 100 made. PM me if interested.

Been looking for one of these for a long time...

#2614 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Not always both switches at the same time. Banging cabinet hard does not seem to do anything. Also does not happen when moving flippers by hand. Even when I hold the switches still and press flipper buttons it occurs. Almost seems like something electrical.

I had something like this happen with my slings, I think a wire was crossed or making contact somehow and caused them to activate, do a general sweep under the PF to make sure no wires are crossed or touching each other...

#2620 4 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

priced to sell: $2000/firm.

I suppose this all depends on what priced to sell means to you, even Pinside's range is $2,200 - $2,580 so posting below that is just nuts. You can always negotiate a lower price but you'll never be able to raise it back up. Personally I wouldn't let mine go for less than $2,650 without my colorDMD and $3,000 with it but condition is king and you have a few issues... there was a security bar at one time so the front cabinet was drilled out plus the fade. Neither one are huge concerns as long as it plays well because that can be repaired; however, it would be at a cost of about $250 plus the time to restore so that will lower it's value. I'd probably list it for $2400-ish and see what happens.

EDIT: Make sure everything is good working order before you list it, boards, bulbs and toys, this will only help you sell it unless you want to sell it as a project.

#2624 4 years ago

All the ring sizes should be listed in the manual but those 7/16" OD are for all the red single groove miniposts. I used white on those for some pop and just the regular rubber because I had them already plus they won't see any action.


#2626 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

A couple of points of advice:
1) Consider doing your own LEDs instead of a kit. Take a look earlier in this thread a page or two back, and you will find all the resources you need. I personally detailed every lamp, and even gave my color selections. Also, others added some good opinions to the discussion. I ended up saving $50+ bucks not going with a kit which I put into additional lighting (again, see earlier in thread)
2) As far as the rubbers, for the rings I went with Titan translucent Competition Silicone and love them. I really like the looks of the lighting with the translucent rings, and I've not had any issues with them getting dirty thus far. For the flippers, I went with red and green PerfectPlay Silicone from Pinball Life. I love the way these play verses traditional rubbers. Finally, for the posts, I went with red, yellow, and green colored post sleeves from Pinball Life. Again, you can browse through recent pages of this thread and see pics of tables with translucent, red, black, white, etc. rubbers to see what you like. If you are seriously interested in the translucent then I would be happy to post more detailed pics.
Bottom line is that it is your game, and outfit it the way you want in your own style. I will admit that I am more to the personalized style with different colored jets, all kinds of lighting mods, custom gear shifter, and all sorts of red/yellow/green theming throughout the table (target covers, posts, post covers, LED pop bumpers, etc.) If you're more of a traditionalist and want to keep the original look of the table, then that is good too.
Also, if you are referring to a rubber kit and not LED kit like I assumed, I would be happy again to inventory for you what is required if not already done so earlier in this forum. I found that going by the manual was not quite accurate (or at least not clear to me).

One bit of advise, probably too late for you now, but to anyone ordering new bands for your pin, always buy an extra 1 or 2 of the sizes you need, trust me, it's better to have them on hand if needed instead of having to wait a week or so to get a new one if one breaks. These aren't that expensive of an items so the few bucks up front will be well worth it, IMO.

#2628 4 years ago

No, if you drain when the ramp is down, the ramp should raise when the new ball is launched from the shooter and then travel under the ramp, then the ramp should lower once it passes underneath giving you a chance to hit the ramp with the upper flipper.

#2636 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

While I don't have another Getaway I can use to compare, everything seems strong to me. Flippers can make all the shots with power and slings are very responsive. If I get industrious, maybe I can shoot some video that might help. Game still plays great, but for some reason I decided to question this the other day. May not find an answer, so I'll try not to let it bug me too much.

did you do a physical test of the roll over switchers under the super charger? How about your settings, what's the diverter set to?

2 weeks later
#2686 4 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

My playfield scratches the HELL out of my cabinet. Es no bueno. This can't be normal. When I have the cabinet redone, I'll def have that issue address so I'm not scratching it or the decals that'll be there anymore:

Looks like your latches (slide assembly) are an issue, the springs are not in the right spot and the Ground cable was cut too...

I'll try to post you some fixes and a pic

#2692 4 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Spent some of Father's Day tweaking this and that on my games. Replaced old flipper buttons with chrome style, installed the coin door bracket and sensor in the cabinet to make contact with the new coin door and a few others.
So noticed the old coin doors connector and the new coin door connector aren't exactly the same. Should I be concerned?

As long as it's a 13 pin .156 you should be fine as long as the pins are wired correctly. It looks like there isn't the connector key housing in the 4th slot and the original was capped, no big deal.


#2693 4 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Thanks. That's an old picture. I think we fixed the spring issue at least:

Yes, that now looks correct. The slide assembly is there so it can lift the playfield higher and make it easier to work on the back end of the PF (I wish some of the older pins had this installed) the angle on the bracket helps it slide forward and upward, once it clicks in place the backend of the bracket elevates and holds it in place allowing you to raise it higher than the cabinet. The issue is that the spring breaks or falls out because of the design and then the assembly will damage the cabinet, especially if people pull it too fast.

1 week later
#2715 4 years ago

I think the original side art were decals.

I have no idea about the apron but I put decals over mine.



#2717 4 years ago
Quoted from Manimal:

Thanks, I ordered the apron decals, but the old apron had been drilled for a metal plate.....not sure what is said, but they butchered the apron doing it. I have it in the shop now getting welded. I had hoped to find a replacement, but I am not having any luck there.
I saw the fish-tales video some time ago, and it is full of good info. I was just trying to find out of the original artwork was a decal or silk screening. With a Fish-Tales, you can see and feel the vinyl they are made from..and with all of the colors, they would be hard to screen. With the Getaway, we are only working with a couple of colors, and given I can feel the texture of the paint on mine, I thought maybe the art work was silk-screened.

If that's the case, I would see if another WPC apron will fit, repaint it and apply the new decals.

#2722 4 years ago

Well heck, I would have never thought they were screened on, I have a small, thin chip at the very top of the cabinet under the lock down and I thought it was just the decal. Good to know and just goes to show you're never too old to learn something new. Thanks for the info and the link.

1 week later
#2734 4 years ago
Quoted from Sticky:

Would someone be able to explain what 'Special' does? When it is lit in the outlanes and you go over it the machine does the knockback and lights up SPECIAL on the DMD but what does it actually do?
Is the only way to make use of it with the kickback active on the left outlane? I did this once and it seemed I was scoring more points but it was all over so fast I wasn't too sure.

Special can be set in your options to be free ball, free game... you light the kickback by hitting all 3 lower white targets.

#2743 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

What else could be slowing the ball down? Old coil sleeve? Old plunger? The actuator is very tight so that is not it....

Check the magnets (and opto switches in the SC), faulty magnets and/or switches could slow the SC... run your SC tests and let us know what happened.

#2746 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Pretty simple and there are 2 tests you need to run.
T.12 Supercharger - enter this test and enable all 3 magnets by pressing up or down test buttons, then launch a ball by hand into the SC. You should see the optos open as it passes through (closed by default). If opto is stuck in open position by default then you have a problem as it will not activate the corresponding magnet.
T.13 SC Time Test - enter this test and roll a ball into the SC. Once up to speed, see what your avg is. I think it should at least be in high 80's but don't exactly remember. If all mags are working but you are getting slow rates then may be mag related.
I also had some issues with one of the fuses (see earlier post in this forum) where it kept blowing. I believe the issue for me was a couple of bad optos. After replacing, my SC has worked perfectly for some time now.

You can test them 1 at a time by setting 2 switches to closed but the full test with them open should show them working as the ball passes the optos. If there is a faulty opto, most of the time the transceiver is bad but it is possible for the receiver switch to be bad or out of whack. Yes, high 80's like 88 is ok, when mine game was firing well it was hitting in the low 90's but I haven't run the test in a while...

#2753 4 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

In both mb and redline mania, you get jackpot then superjackpot. Supercharger loops used to relight jackpot shot and values go up each time.

This ^... for L2 Rom anyway

#2760 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

I just got my parts and removed the 2 screws to the actuator. How in the world do you get this diverter gate off? Its stuck in there! Hammer it out? Don't wanto to damage anything. Thanks

Yeah, taking that off or adjusting it sucks... but that's pinball, some parts are just really hard to work on or access.

#2762 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Diverter is off! Do I run some grease or oil on this thing and the actuator? If so, what kind? Liquid? Paste? Brand? Thanks!!!

Do you have a manual? If not you should get one or you can DL it, I'll check it when I can but I don't recall if that calls for lubricant (I know the drop post in the wire form does). Many machines don't use any sort of grease and I'm pretty oil is usually a no no

#2773 4 years ago

Hope this helps...


#2774 4 years ago

Well I finally broke down and got some Cliffy protectors installed. I figured I'd protect my newly repaired out hole (repainted wear spot, applied CC, waxed it and put down Mylar) so it wouldn't get beat up. Props to Cliffy for some nice fitting parts.





#2779 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

That looks nice! Maybe I can Install some in mine since I have it torn apart right now. Where they hard to install?

Not hard at all, the shooter lane requires you to loosen the black wooden rail so you can slide the plate underneath it but the top is like replacing the rubbers except you'll need to take out the back metal ball stops.


Quoted from weaverj:

you'll have to hammer out a few posts if it's anything like my WCS. no biggy.

No hammer required, whew...

Quoted from KornFreak28:

Thats very nice of you! Thank you sir!

NP. It's what we do here, good luck and enjoy your pin (once you get it put back together).

EDIT: The shooter lane will require you to remove the 1st screw under the PF from the wooden rail otherwise you'll never get the hole in the plate lined up. Maybe taking it out completely would be easier but I didn't need to remove it just loosen the other screws...

#2793 4 years ago
Quoted from jsyjay:

Joined the club yesterday!
Playfield and plastics are near mint, flippers a bit weak and cabinet is faded and tatty so will have decals and all metalwork black powder coated at some point to make it 100%
Flipper rebuild kit, LED's, Mezel mods Donuts Heaven and alt translite ordered.


#2846 4 years ago

As for the Shifter error, this can happen when you only use the shifter in one direction just wiggle it up and down and it should reset... it's not truly an error or at least that's been the case on my table.

Connectors are usually specific but anything is possible...

Sometimes, like mentioned before, after doing so much to the pin it goes crazy but it will catch up and be fine after a few start ups.

Opto errors or slow SC can be because the opto are out of alignment.

If you fried anything it could be a fuse just check them out

#2855 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Ok guys, i think I may have finally found the issue! About 2 weeks ago, I purchased a portable AC unit for my garage where I have my Getaway. Of course the machine has been torn apart form the last 2 weeks for the shop job and just barely started playing it with the AC on. I read on a different thread that sometimes resets are caused by voltage drops in the outlet. I checked the outlet with AC on and gave me 120, turned AC off gave me 115. Played the machine with the AC off and no more resets in 3 games that I played! Keeping fingers crossed and hoping I did in fact found the solution. Will keep testing it tomorrow Thanks!

This is a fact...

A while back I was getting a reset on my pin when my nephew would mash both flippers at the same time, there are other issues that could cause a reset from doing that, but on occasion a reset would occur with a single flip too

#2886 4 years ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

Have any of you installed this around the beacon? I bought one, just haven't installed it yet.

Not that exact one but mine had this when I bought it 13 years ago...


#2888 4 years ago
Quoted from Manimal:

Anyone know of a source for the "Getaway and car" banner decal that goes on the side of the upper ramp? Getting down to the last phases of a complete rebuild and thought I would replace my faded one.

If you mean the Supercharger loop decal, Marco had them at one point but I haven't seen them available for a while... sorry.

#2891 4 years ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

That is the one from the original High Speed, very similar. Can you take a picture of how it is mounted?

I figured it was but I liked it and left it on....




#2898 4 years ago
Quoted from nvu4prod:

I've read several posts on this Getaway Club thread regarding the rear lift ramp not working properly. My lift ramp is staying locked in the up position. After going in the switch edge test the switch is working properly. When going into the lift ramp test, the large solenoid engages which is for the up position but I do not hear the small coil fire for the release: SM1-28-900-DC. When I manually release the plate from the the notch it does position the ramp down. So there is no apparent binding between the shaft, ramp and solenoids.
I'm guessing it's an issue with the SM1-28-900-DC coil. All soldering looks clean to it's lugs. Not familiar with this type of coil since it's so small. Because of it's location it's hard to determine whether the coil operates with a mini plunger or it's a magnet pulse that trips the plate to the down position.
Anyone that has knowledge or has experienced this particular issue on their Getaway, I would really appreciate some feedback.
Thanks in advance!

So when you run the T:Test, T14:Ramp test, the ramp fails to move up and down?

#2900 4 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

Thanks Kawydud.
Thats weird, upon close inspection of my board, I have a solid black wire on the 2nd connection in from the left on J505 where yours has the black/yellow on the 3rd connection in from the left on J505. I also just noticed that i can see where the wire broke off on J504 on my board and its the 2nd connection in from the right and it would be my black/yellow wire where yours shows a solid black wire on J504 and its the 3rd connection in from the right. Anyone know why that would be the case ?

Yeah, all this can be a real pain in the butt and it's why I'm a firm believer that everyone should have a copy of the schematics and the operation manuals for their pin, and if your table didn't come with them you should try to download them or buy a copy. Hopefully these will help...




#2902 4 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

Thanks tiltmonster, im not very good with schematics yet but im guessing since your connections looks the same as Kawyduds, my connectors on J504 and J505 must be switched . If the black wire and the black/yellow wire are just speaker wires i can just reverse them correct ? Or does it even matter as mine were working just fine before i started my restore.

It's no problem, we are here to help the best we can so don't worry but I'm still confused about what's going on, perhaps you just have the molex connectors on the wrong pins? Maybe I need to re-read your post to see what issue you're having...

EDIT: So your wires came off the molex and you weren't sure where they went and reattached them and it's not the same as they were intended but they still work?

If that's the case I would still attach them the correct way, I'm not sure what harm would come of it if you left it but it's always best to put things back where they belong.

#2904 4 years ago
Quoted from nvu4prod:

When running the ramp test, the up coil engages for the up position but fails to drop down. I can manually trip the notch plate to make the ramp drop to the down position. I'm not hearing the smaller coil engage which trips the release plate. Because of the location of the assembly underneath the play field, this one could be a tough one to trouble shoot!!

Hmmm... yeah, working on that sucks but that's pinball. I'll look at mine later to see what could be causing that to happen.

#2907 4 years ago
Quoted from scottmaggie:

Anyone have the plastic in the center of the game that reads "This time we're gonna nail that dirtbag". I am missing it so...

I think that plastic was part of the reproduction set, mine was all metal but had this decal inside the manual I put over top...




#2913 4 years ago
Quoted from Sticky:

Was about to order ColorDMD for my Getaway but it says you have to have L2 or L5 roms? I run L1 and don't intend to change from L1 so I guess I can't use a ColorDMD?

I don't know about the L1 Rom not working with the ColorDMD but I had the L1 and switched out to L2 and love it... no issue with my ColorDMD or game play. Why don't you want to switch the Rom?




#2914 4 years ago
Quoted from rottenrobert1313:

I'd be interested in a decal too.

I don't know if my decal was original to the game when new but it was tucked away in the manual some 13 years ago. I bet someone here could remake that decal... let me know if a better pic would help.

#2924 4 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

You mean secret mania? You shift the shifter during the donut shop animation on ball lock 2
Red Line Mania is the 'wizard mode' for getting to the top gear (rpm shots to fill guage, shift, then repeat for each gear)

I thought this only worked when 3 police cars are showing

1 week later
#2968 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

I see, sure fooled me.

I would think black gloss or semi-gloss paint would be reflective to a degree, I need to touch mine up anyway, so I may try it...

3 weeks later
#3027 3 years ago
Quoted from Sticky:

I checked the button and there weren't any springs. Just seemed to be dirty. Gave it a little spray of WD40 and it's perfect now.
However, even when the button is pushed down all the way sometimes the flipper gets interrupted as if a circuit isn't staying complete. So say I'm keeping a ball on the left flipper suddenly the flipper will go down as if I released the button even though I didn't.
Any idea why this is?

How do the leaf switches look? I replaced mine because part of the wood spacers fell apart and they weren't working correctly. Probably a good 2nd step...

#3029 3 years ago
Quoted from Sticky:

The leaf switches look good to me but I'm a noob and have no idea what to look for. Should I try bending it toward the button maybe?

When you depress the flipper button it should force the leaf switch to make contact, I suppose it could be something as simple as that but if you can post a few photos of your flipper mechs and coils and one of your leaf switches we could have a closer look.

If it were me I'd...

Try a switch test on the flipper.

Look at the solder joints and wires to make sure everything is making good contact.

A flipper rebuild may be in order if it's not been done already, sleeves and coils... I doubt springs or mechs would cause that issue.

Beyond that I'd have to look at my schematics to see where these go into the board but make sure there are no burnt molex connectors or loose pins on the board just to be sure everything is making good contact because a blown fuse would kill them completely.

Baby steps here, some things are obvious and others take a little leg work to sort out but in the end I'm sure we can get you all squared away.

#3042 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

This is my first pin, and I was researching and trying to track down a pin in my budget for quite some time. When I finally found this one, There were many little issues: electrical, mechanical, lighting, surface, etc., but I've really enjoyed learning and fixing everything myself along with adding several of my own mods. While my next pin will be much more play ready, I am glad I've gone through this experience and appreciate pinball that much more because of it.

IDK, if you are now more comfortable working on a pin because of that experience maybe you should look for a better value and fix it up, that's what I've done and in the long run it would save you some cash.

#3057 3 years ago
Quoted from mattnb:

Hey all,
New member of the Getaway club. Just picked up one last evening. Game's in pretty ok shape. Long list of small stuff I have to do to get it in playing shape. In no particular order:
-Bunch of switches are out. Switch matrix seems okay, but will require more investigation.
-Several lights and flashers out
-Game is a re-import, so I need to solder the jumper to change it back to America
-Batteries were replaced, but game resets to factory every time. Will need to investigate the issue.
-DMD is showing early signs of degassing. Also has an audible hum to it which changes depending on what's being displayed (wtf?)
Anyway, looking forward to having it back to playing shape. It's one of the best!

Welcome! It's a really good pin and one you can just play and have fun. I've had mine for 13 years and been on the fence about selling it or trading it and just can't do it, so I hope you have a similar experience.

Have you ever redone a reimport? Mine was but I'm here in the states so I'm certain it's the same so if it helps here is a link to a thread I made...


#3068 3 years ago
Quoted from Sticky:

So this happened today. Can anyone recommend a good source for replacement rubbers?

I love Titan too, have them in my games but Pinball Life has the PerfectPlay that I've been using and those are excellent...


They two are similar and I cannot decide which one I like best. Maybe PerfectPlay's rebound and bounce are slightly closer to regular rubber? Bottom line, you can't go wrong with either one

#3069 3 years ago
Quoted from Zukboy2002:

Joined the club a few weeks ago. I can't get enough of it. I can see this one in my collection for a while.

Welcome! Have fun, it's a very good pin!

#3075 3 years ago

Sticker with serial number 1st clue. Volts 220 2nd clue. Coin door 3rd clue. Pop the play field and look at the transformer for cut wires and wire nuts 4th clue.

#3077 3 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Voltage and wire nuts wont tell him what country it came from...

Ha... yeah, misread the question.

#3083 3 years ago
Quoted from wxforecaster:

Just picked up a filthy but fully working Getaway. Full strip down, cleaned 8 rags worth of grime, new rubbers, flippers awesome, she plays better than any I've ever played with one exception. The plunger. I think I aligned it correctly and put on a new coil sleeve, but the ball still doesn't feed all the way around the loop. It makes it to about the top of the pops and that's it. Any ideas?

I had a similar issue with a new coil, for whatever reason it didn't launch the ball around the loop but when I put in another coil the same thing occurred. Turns out that my shooter looked liked it was aligned correctly but it was causing the ball to hit the star post just enough to slow it down... you may have to play with the alignment even if it looks right. Having said that one of the coils didn't launch it around the loop so I assumed the coil was bad.