Hello. Long time owner of HS2, but a number of years ago the shifter broke and I puttered around trying to fix it and then put it aside. I am now trying to get it working again and I discovered that I had a few parts lying at the bottom of the cabinet and I forget where they go. Can anyone help me to identify what the parts are in the picture and where they go? Also I don't remember if I took off any parts from the launcher itself. I took a picture of the launcher inside the cabinet, does that look normal or are there obvious parts missing?

Thanks in advance.

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Awesome, thanks guys. I did figure out the coin mech pieces by looking at my other machines (TZ and RS). The other pieces must just be left over from a flipper redo.

Thanks again, this forum is awesome! I am currently making my way through all 219 pages on this tread, it's taking a long time but I am learning a ton.

I am suffering from hinge/slide woes. I do have the springs (although likely I should order replacements) but they keep falling off the hinges because the playfield is not sitting on the slides properly. The first pic is how it should be (right side of my TZ with working hinges). The next two pics are my right and left hinges. You will see that the top bolt should be within the hinge and the hinge should be pointing straight up (with the springs attached). My issue is I cannot seem to lift the playfield to get the bolts where they should be in the hinges. On the left side (last pic) I cannot get the hinge to point up because its movement is blocked by the front bolt.

Also some of my bolts need tightening, particularly the top/back bolt on the left. I was able to tighten the front bolts well enough but the back ones (especially the left one) seem to be impossible because the playfield wires, etc. are in the way when the playfield is upright. Also what tool do you guys use to tighten the bolts given it appears to require a monstrous flat head screwdriver? For the front bolts I actually disconnected the bar/handle from the bottom right side of the cabinet and surprisingly it fit the slot and did a good job. But it is obviously too big to use on the back bolts with the playfield upright.

Any help/ideas with getting this playfield where it needs to be would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

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Can someone please have a look at your left slingshot plastics and let me know what hardware I am missing? Is it just two locknuts under each screw to secure the top plastic to the one below and a washer and locknut over the ramp screw? Thanks.

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This pic is taken from around page 133 or so. The metal L-shaped piece to the right of the supercharger (the one with the caution sticker put on), is this a standard part? I don't have it on my machine.

Thanks.

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UGH, I just put my Marco order through yesterday before I saw this. Note for Canadians/International shipping, Marco has a new deal with FedEx which I do not call a deal, at least for Canadians. I ordered about C$165 in parts, shipping was $50 and prepaid (by FedEx) duties and taxes was $35, so $85 just to get it here.

There has to be a better way. And there is, it's USPS, but Marco does not have that option anymore.

Okay, so as a long time Getaway owner but a short time Pinside member. I started on Pinside reading the Getaway club and am currently on page 192 or so of 220 after a few weeks. Man this is an active club.

So I want to query the club on LED lighting, specifically the "Art of Leds" by Comet Pinball (https://www.cometpinball.com/pages/the-art-of-pinball-leds) and how it relates/pertains to Getaway. I plan to go with all leds from Comet Pinball unless convinced otherwise.

I have Mr. Tantrum's LED list but no respect that list is a few years old and I know he made changes since.

I have also made note of many of the lighting mods (gauge plastics, rear lane, etc.) that I will be making.

But first a number of questions.

First off, GI. Comet states frosted bulbs, Warm White for for games with warm artwork (yellows, oranges, & reds), Cool White (previously known as Natural White) for games with cold artwork (blues & blacks) and Sunlight for anything that isn’t an obvious choice for Warm White or Cool White. What works best for Getaway? Should I choose one for all or mix them up and if the latter what?

Next the inserts. Comet suggests Cool White (previously "Natural White") for white inserts, Warm White for yellow inserts and pink for orange inserts (crazy, but true!). Color match everything else (green for green, red for red, etc). I don't think Comet specifies frosted/clear, domed/non-domed, not sure what to pick. I am aware that some of the inserts need flex bulbs, such as the Freeride insert.

Getaway does have yellow (stop light, etc.) and orange (RPM, etc.) Color matching everything else is easy. Does warm white for yellow and pink for orange work for Getaway? Or should I just use yellow and orange? Or something else?

Or should I just use Cool White for everything to keep things simple?

Last, non-ghosting bulbs are a given, but should I be considering the Comet Ultimate Optix aka Flex bulbs?

Next up I will be asking about what silicone rubbers to use. The first question on that, should I be looking at Titan or is there a better alternative?

Thanks in advance for your input.

Speaking of roms, it has been mentioned on this forum that Soren had made a new L5 rom that fixes certain things. Did that actually happen as I can find no place to obtain it? Or were there licensing issues, etc.?

Thanks.

Question now on replacement rubbers.

I plan to go with all Titan silicone replacement rubbers unless you can recommend better ones out there. I also plan to do things fairly faithfully to the original flyers/promotional video. In the promo video all the rubbers appear to be white, except for red on all three flippers. The posts are all black except for the larger yellow post to the left of the supercharger entrance. Interestingly, there are some differences I noticed in the flyer pics. The flyer shows black rubber on the main flippers and both red and black on the upper flipper depending on what picture you look at. It also shows a red post to the right of the supercharger which I think I like better than black as the yellow/red post combination would match the yellow/red of the supercharger lights (which are oddly reversed in the flyer).

For the "white" Titan rubbers do people generally prefer to go translucent or stick with white?

Also for the flipper rings Titan has the option of "Standard" or "Low Bounce Standard", what do people generally prefer there? And is that for all three flippers?

Finally is there accurate rubber list somewhere or should I just rely on the manual?

Thanks in advance.

Sorry maybe I'm being thick here but if you go up a larger size from 2 1/2 to 2 3/4 wouldn't it be a little looser not a little tighter?

What size rubber goes on those little red posts on the plastics?

Edit: Looks like its 7/16 OD, correct?

Here's a bit of a radical idea. Given that there is orange striping around each plastic and lots of orange on the playfield, what do you guys think of orange rubber throughout (other than flippers that I likely will leave red)?

My star posts are all clear, I thought that's the way they were originally.

I posted this in the DMD Tech forum but thought I would ask here as well since people here are so knowledgeable.

My J120 connector on my Road Show PDB has burnt as you can see in the picture. I will get an 11 pin header and resolder onto the board but for the connector should I replace it with the same thing or should I put in a Molex connector?

Or should I just get this Marco Specialties GI Update Cable Kit for WMS WPC Games? You can see it in the picture and the description is below. Seems a bit expensive at $40 but since it is a pre-done molex perhaps it is worth it.

Thanks in advance.

GI UPDATE CABLE KIT FOR WMS WPC GAMES
#H-GIUPDATE-WPC
General illumination update cable kit for Williams WPC System games. Includes keyed male and female connectors.

Replacement parts for burnt connectors on WPC games. Replaces Playfield and Insert cables at J120 and J121.

Kit includes:

Update cable with Molex Trifurcon™ pins
Keyed 11 pin .156 inch spacing header
12 pin Molex .062 inch diameter standard plug and crimping pins
Cable ties
**INSTALLATION NOTES:
Additional tools required! Barrel crimp tool and soldering iron needed.

Replace header on PCB.
Cut back burnt playfield or backbox cable, strip wires and crimp on new pins, insert wires into connector to match mating connector on update cable.
Reference:

H-GIUPDATE-WPC

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I am about to pull the trigger on Comet LEDs but have a couple of questions for you first.

Does Getaway benefit in any way from the OCD LED or GI boards?

Where can I find the L2 Rom with the updated software for LEDs to prevent ghosting?

Thanks.

So I am currently shopping my Getaway and I need to source a few parts but don't know exactly what to order from Marco or whatever.

First, I noticed the pieces on both sides as shown in the first picture which are located at the very backside of the playfield were loose. Turns out there was only one screw holding each side in and in addition you can see in the second picture (left side) that the metal piece (with prongs I believe) that the screw screws into is missing. I need to order two screws and two of these metal female pronged parts that the screw screws into. I can't figure out which screw to order and what the female part is. The screw is 1 7/8" excluding the head. No idea what the thread is on the screw or the female part.

Last I installed my new slides and yahoo! the playfield now lifts up properly. When installing them I tightened all the interior bolts but one of them (one of the upper ones that the playfield will sit on when in the normal down position) was somewhat loose and would not tighten. So I need to order the black cabinet bolt and on the other side I need the corresponding threaded "bolt" (see last two pictures). Not sure exactly what I need to order though.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

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You can find on ebay a 1:43 red Diablo with no wing and black interior like the game car, just have to paint the wheels gold. Made by Vitesse (Classic Cars), limited edition of 1248. I ended up getting two of them.

Here's a couple of pics:

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Nah, the cars depicted on the playfield do not have the supercharger, only the one on the backglass.

Guys I have a cabinet issue that I don't know how to fix.

On each side of the cabinet there are bolts that hold the playfield up and operate the sliders for lifting the playfield. On my Getaway the left side bolt that the slider pivots on (the higher of the two) is wiggly. I took it off (with some difficulty as you can imagine from the pics below because it just wanted to spin instead of unbolt from the pivot bolt) and this is the issue. The first pic is the pivot bolt, and as you can see near the top of the bolt it is rectangular which is intended to fit into the rectangular hole in the cabinet. The second pic is what a good hole looks like and it is rectangular. As you can see from the third pic of the troublesome hole, the rectangular hole has been enlarged and become circular, probably from misuse by operators in the past when lifting the playfield. As a result the bolt cannot be tightened securely, and since the playfield rests on that bolt when in its lowered position the playfield is not really level either.

Is there any possible way to fix this or do I have to just live with it? I do have some Quickwood that I bought to fix some wear around the kickout hole, would that work perhaps?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

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Another question for today. I am reposting an image originally posted by Mr. Tantrum a few years ago. I noticed on my lower connector that the black wire is no longer connected. The wire is there just no longer connected to the white plastic plug connector. I see that it goes in the last slot, but what tool do I use to put it back in there? Is some special tool required or can I just try a small screwdriver?

Or should I just replace it altogether with a .156 molex housing connector? I already have the pins and crimper for replacing a GI connector just would need to get a 6 pin molex housing. That sounds like a cheaper and perhaps better way to go.

Last question. It looks from the pic that the purple wire is connected twice through slots one and two, is that correct? On mine it is only connected through the first slot.

Thanks.

Thanks.
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I found the connections in the manual (see pic). Interestingly, it shows position 5 as empty, even though in all the pictures I have seen position 5 is the same wire as position 6. And in investigating my wire the insulation is clearly pierced a second time where it had been inserted into position 5 but has since come out.

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Yeah it's odd. For example the black wire connected to J1 position 1 is only connected to position 1 in the pics I have seen yet the diagram in the manual shows it connected to 2 as well even though the text says J1-2 N/C.

It's 1:43. You want to find one that has no wing and a black interior (you can paint the wheels gold).

See here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/223#post-6178091

That is the product that TZ owners use to lubricate their playfield clock gears so I would say yes.

Here is a pic of the Vitesse 1:43 Diablo in red, no wing, black interior and with the wheels painted gold. I used Testors Enamel Metallic Gold on the wheels.

It's easiest to take the car apart (two screws on the bottom) and then slip out the axles and remove the tires. When putting them back in put the axles in without the tires and then put the tires on. You need to hold up plastic pieces at each end to put the axles back in so be gentle so as not to break anything.

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I went back and forth with Comet over whether their UV lights would work well in lighting up the Getaway UV paint and they basically said no. This was their exact response:

"Unfortunately, UV light doesn't throw very far and I don't think spotlights will do you much good (part of why we don't offer UV spotlights). On The Getaway you'd also need to install them on the lower part of the slingshot which could cause visibility issues. Strips are usually a far better option, but to get an effect like in your photo you'd really need an overhead light. If there are specific areas you really want to enhance with UV we might be able to make that happen, but to light up the whole game like that probably isn't possible with just our products."

So what I did was buy a 50W 365nm UV overhead light that I can install on the ceiling above the table which highlights all the UV paint (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08635F9CX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title).

First pic below is from my 395nm flashlight held low to the playfield and pointed to the back (you can see a lot of extra blue/purple lighting which is a side effect of using a 395nm light). Second pic is the 365nm 50W UV light on the ceiling overhead and just right of the circular inserts in the lower playfield. The 365nm gives much more realistic lighting. Both pics taken in a dark room. In a lit room the effect is far less but still there.

Doing it this way allows you to keep your regular lighting on the playfield itself but still light up all the fluorescent orange.

Special thanks goes out to Mr_Tantrum who was instrumental in discussing the Getaway's UV lighting with me and helped steer me towards the overhead light.

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He said slide with an L not side. I believe he may be making a cabinet and needs to know where the holes in the cabinet for the slide pivot and slides are, but just guessing.