Hi Guys - first post on pinside to join the HS2 club. So G'day from the most isolated city in the world. This was my first pinball - and as probably some of you can relate to, was an absolute beater. Being new to the hobby I got shafted as well on price by some dodgy operators. I could have conceded, and maybe hated the hobby, but instead I have turned a negative into a positive, and 10 pins later, this is now the pride of my collection.

Here is mine finished today. Restored & ceramic clear coated playfield. Totally rebuilt, re decaled and clear coated cabinet. Custom red pearl trim (thought the door would be a bit much), alternate back glass, cointaker LED's throughout. New plastics, red metallic flipper bats and flipper buttons, Flipper Fidelity complete kit. Many, many brand new parts, I could go on and on - could have had me a Medieval Madness for the cost !!! Supercharger black pearl, with violet flick. I have red, orange and silver metallic flames still to add to this. Have some custom decals for apron & supercharger still coming.P1010613.JPGP1010614.JPGP1010615.JPGP1010616.JPGP1010617.JPG59647-2.jpg59647-3.jpg59647-4.jpg

Thanks guys - really was a labour of love. This game will never leave my collection

Well my original translight was toast (like 70%) of the machine. This is how I ended up with it. Having said that I think it does relate. You do pick a hot women up with the first ball lock right ?

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Added the Key mod yesterday - simple but awesome. Also added clear superbands to my red metallic flipper bats. I am very happy with the look.

The cabinet is clearcoated. Many, many times.

To achieve the result I did was very time consuming and expensive. I have an automotive accident repair centre, so it is top range automotive clearcoat applied in conrolled conditions. After decals were applied, there is a special 2 PAC sealer applied wet, followed immediately by 2 even coats of high solid clear (sprayed of course) heat was then gently applied for 40min (100F for my amercian friends) then it was left overnight. We then cut back the clearcoat with P600 with an orbital sander, this was to remove any imperfections to create an extremely flat surface in order to get a mirror finish. Then we applied the high solid clearcoat again (2 coats as before). The cutting heating and re applying happened about 5 times. We then finally achieved a flawless deep gloss mirror finish that is 100 UV protected. Those reds will be red forever, regardless of where that cab sits.

Funny - all the guys here who have seen it ask exactly the same question. Honestly the cost would outweigh the benefit for most. There would be approx $350-500 in top of the line clear on it. Plus the labour - conservatively 5-8 hours at my shop rate. The only way I would do it for someone else would be in some sort of trade for pinball related stuff. I ceramic clearcoted a MM playfield for a guy who got my CP going for me. A lot of work for me - a lot of work for him. You should see that playfield !

Ceramic clearcoat is a virtually scratch proof clear. They are now putting it on the latest BMW's an Merc's. It is similar in nature to a coffee cup surface. Very difficult to vandalise with a key. I have seen completely smashed panels that are squashed - but not scratched. Very durable stuff. My cab and playfield have also been finished in this.

Hey I'll do a playfield and a cab for you if you strip and re assemble my TOM so I can do mine !!