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(Topic ID: 78179)

Getaway Club ~ Dispatch, run a make on license plate KINGPIN

By MrSanRamon

6 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 10,759 posts
  • 419 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by EStroh
  • Topic is favorited by 198 Pinsiders


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#6740 3 years ago

Does anyone know where I can find a replacement for the metal plate above the center targets? Mine is completely shot and it would be a shame to need to put this back into my restored pin, eventhough I have a plastic for that place...

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2 weeks later
#6789 2 years ago
Quoted from psychopat:

Hey guys, I finally got my project Get Away completed!

Very nice!!!

I am working on something similar and am wondering where you got those instruction cards and if you maybe have them as a printable file?

Also, do you have more nformation on the pinsound soundfiles you used and how they have been incorporated?

2 months later
#7126 2 years ago

Teaser... :b
Did a complete disassembly and restauration of a getaway. First time i did this - a one-time experience, which began in 2014. No compromises so far. I'll post more, when done. I expect it to last about six more months.

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#7152 2 years ago
Quoted from Mike_M:

I added a Pinduino controlled RGB strip to the SuperCharger ramp.

Is there a how-to that describes how I can "copy" that? Would love to!!!

2 weeks later
#7205 2 years ago
Quoted from Jakusu:

Hi all. Chasing a new full set of plastics - can't find any stockists anyone help?

The sets are gone. I think I got one of the last from RTBB. None there anymore either. BUT: For individual plastics you can checke here - most of it is on stock:

#7238 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

About a year ago or so, another Getaway owner made their extra Getaway plastic model available to me (I think this was included in the recent past with a 3rd party produced Getaway plastic set).

I have one of these too. I'll happily let it go if somebody wants it badly.

2 weeks later
#7384 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

new light up panel

Wich one did you use / where did you buy it? I doo like the gauges mod a lot. much better than the washed out allover illuminated one. It'S crisp. Really nice!

1 month later
#7493 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

There was a guy that made laser cut plastic blackouts who probably still has some. Also, I designed some templates for printing yourself that work really well.

I had thought about buying one of those as well, but decided to paint my light black on the inside with liquid plastic in stead. Does just the same. No need to spend USD 25.

3 weeks later
#7587 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Did you make or get it from someone (can you share the graphics file with me)?

I would LOVE to use this one as well. Please, please, please, share your source or file, if you can

#7590 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

If he is open to it, I can either leverage his file or create my own and make it available both for DIY & purchase for a few bucks to cover the cost.

That would be absolutely awesome. I'm in Europe but I guess shipping a piece of paper across the pound wouldn't be that much money anyway. Please let me know when you hear from him.

BTW going to put in my pinsound next week and it will be Mr tantrum all over

#7597 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Sweet! Can't wait to hear about your experience. Are you rewiring for stereo speakers? Are you updating speakers or going with stock?

I did a very fundamental and quite high end restauration of my getaway over the past 4 years putting about $6000 into it. Nothing was not dissembled, nothing untouched. So rewiring and flipper fidelity is a given. I'll create a thread once I am done. That will be in April

#7603 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

, so don't take what I or others say to seriously when it comes to things like this

NP. I wont take it TOO seriously :b

Edit: tiltmonster beat me to it...

1 week later
#7658 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

..., but the orange on those repros was completely off. I don't understand how someone could even take those to print without first comparing the colorization to the originals (I believe they also left out a small piece). Would be great of someone stepped up and made another set, but probably have to deal with PPS.

They are off. My originals were crap, so I used them. Once all are in it doesn't really show, but still I see why it could be unsatisfying. And yes, they DID leave out a piece - the one underneath the U-turn on the left ramp.
Also the holes and print on my Supercharger-Entry plastic were horribly misaligned.
If you have good originals, you're probably better off.

1 week later
#7748 2 years ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

Any tips on bulletproofing the up/down ramp? When i got the game it had a ramp error, and was doing the thing where it just goes up and down over and over... so I fiddled with it, and got it working (yas!) but last night it came back. Works pretty much spot on in test. Went in, bent the switch actuator down a bit, seems fine again? My first instinct is replace the micro switch of course, but I’ll be damned if it doesn’t seem 100%... any thoughts?

Mine has always done this as well. Even now after a fundamental restoration with everything as it should be, this is still present. Are we sure this is not a software bug?

#7810 2 years ago

Anyone in GErmany or Europe: In case you are looking for LEDs for the inserts, please contact me.

I am willing to trade my full playfield insert set of noflix plus for a set of no flix (withough the plus), because I have LEDOCD installed. LEDOCD profits from the "cheap" LEDs, wheres without LEDOCD the non-ghosting Noflix PLUS are the better choice better.
The deal I am offering is for you to buy the noflix set, send it to me and I send you my full noflix plus set.

We both win: I get better performance for free, you get a set of NoFlix PLUS for the price of NoFLix basic.

The NoFlix are available at

#7853 2 years ago
Quoted from chubtoad13:

I would definitely pull the ball guide and make sure the ball can go down to the left flipper. If there is a lip at the end, like you’re saying, I would file it down until it’s gone.
If the ball isn’t returning to the correct flipper you’re going to miss out on the flow that everyone loves

A Pinball has a rather significant weight and momentum - too much for such minor things to be of real significance. A small lip that you can "feel with your hand" falls in that category. Filing the guide is more wanting to do SOMETHING rather than spend more time looking for the source of the problem. My Getaway - after a fundamental restoration - also has a lot of such hickups. I am very aware it will take quite some time in re-positioning the guides to play well again. For the guides it is more a question of overall direction.

Also I have put in a protector, which creates more friction than the original clearcoated surface. That also means that the rotation of the ball created by following the ballguide all around the orbit will transfer into a change of direction easier than before. Kind of like the top-spin oder undercut in tennis or pool or bowling, it will show an effect a bit further down the road, like in a curve curve ball in bowling or baseball.

Take it easy, dont file your parts until you're really absolutely clear you know, what going on.

Guessing with a file is a bad idea.

#7878 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinless:

Where is the best place to buy some new decals?


Screen printed with original "neon" red. I missed to buy those at the time but, after having seen them would NEVER buy others. you actually DO get what you pay for.

#7933 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

These switches are getting harder to find as only 2 games came with fliptronic boards and no optos.

Is there any way of upgrading to the optos though? I had ordered new contacts for my getaway some time ago, but despite the part number being the same, it didn't fit (is was too short). An Upgrade to optos would be a welcome one...

#7935 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Not very hard to do either.

I did ask about this on the German forum some time ago and got a rather straighforward answer that it cannot be done because of something related to the fact that the opto board switch the current to the ground, vs what the metal switches do. You wouldn't may still know which thread that Addams upgrade was in - maybe I can fnd a hack there...

#7944 2 years ago

Thank you Grumpy

Regarding parts: I have Bumper parts left over and a full set of targets. all used.

#7963 2 years ago

Must must must mod for this one is ledocd, followed by pinsound followed by a colored dmd (Pin2DMD for me)...

#7977 2 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

So after adding Mr. T’s goodies, I noticed one last piece of stainless that doesn’t have anything on it. Maybe T would work his magic one more time and come up with something for this

Cliffy did a thinner repro of this metal plate for me. This is needed, if you want to put a proper plastic on to, due to the length of the theadded post holding the SC.

#8006 2 years ago

Monochrome red LED really suits the game perfectly.

#8008 2 years ago

I have the PIN2DMD, which allows you to do whatever you want: monochrome in any color or fully colored.
It's a bit of work to get to run, but well worth it and gives you all the flexibility you need.

#8013 2 years ago

It's technically not a post, but only a metal sleeve on a screw. The screw was broken on my pf as well. It's cumbersome to fix because it needs to be drilled out of the pf. Otherwise the new one will be placed in the wrong place. As the outlines are tight, this is unfortunately rather critical for game play.

1 week later
#8056 2 years ago
Quoted from ruzeo:

Still having issues getting my machine to boot after the tornado, ...

Tornados and falling trees will not cause blown fuses, unless you had a lightning strike.

I would check for a mechanical probem within the electronics - a capacitor shaken lose, or a broken solder-point, possibly where a heavy cable is attached. Based on a tornado incident, I would expect blown fuses to only be a second order problem resulting from mechanical damage to the boards. Or simple coincidence and not causality.

#8061 2 years ago

Just installed an Xpin DMD Controller board today. Got it from ebay quite cheap and would rather use this than to wear out the original. installed like a charm and I see or feel no difference compared to the original. Could not be happier

1 week later
#8089 2 years ago

HAs anyone had experience with these apron decals?

They are the only ones on stock anywhere right now...

#8095 2 years ago

Im personally total happy with a monichrome red LED, the PIN2DMD. Its a bit tricky to install and the suplier is a bit slow in delivering, but I jus love the result.

1 week later
#8141 2 years ago

I replaced mine with the one from xpinball. Works very well.

1 week later
#8151 2 years ago

It consists of the plastics, 4 spacers 0.26", and two standard PCB to hold a t10 bulb in those black bajonet sockets. Of you send me you email address as pm I can send you detailed photos of everything, which I took during my restoration.

2 weeks later
#8202 2 years ago
Quoted from RVApinballer:

If anyone grabs a CPR plastic set and doesn't want the desktop display send me a PM! Been looking for one casually for a good while. Thanks!

msg sent.

#8212 2 years ago
Quoted from cocomonkeh:

have the rear ramp flap?

I think pinbits had those on stock... Otherwise I do have a chrome coated one with some flaws, which I could let go for EUR 20 plus shipping.

2 weeks later
#8243 2 years ago

Hey guys, I've finally gotten around to documenting my first and only restoration ever. It's a Getaway and it ended up quite high-end. Thanks for all the support I've received here.

Lots of photos here:


#8246 2 years ago

Thanks to you the machine sounds as great as it looks

Quoted from MustangPaul:

How do you like the way the game plays with the playfield protector on?

I'm used to the protector from my Stern Star Wars LE. It does slow the ball down a bit, and causes sideways rotation of the ball to manifest in curved trajectories occasionally, due to the added grip. However not using a protector after this type of effort is no option for me.

#8255 2 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

Anyone know what this plastic is in the CPR set

It's for the 'feet' of that plastic assembly above the super charger ramp entrance. The one that had the two Lanka for refline mania and super charger

#8266 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Surprised you didn't create the custom plastic for the center bank (to each his own, but I think it looks better than the original silver metal piece).

The center target one I have laying here, but it is too thick to allow enough threading to stick out for the nut to catch on to. I even have a custom made thinner metal plate, but even with that there's no way.

#8269 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

You definitely have the wrong post.

Does someone have part number of the correct post? I'd love to complete my baby properly.

#8279 2 years ago

I got the xpin replacement. Seems like a major upgrade to me. Less flickering with my led based DMD than the original.

#8288 2 years ago
Quoted from OlliG:

Thanks for the hint.... But....
I already did a factory reset...did not help

Shifter error is rather normal. Those errors are displayed when a switch isn't used for a while. Since any user will typically use only one direction of the shifter, the other switch will be unused and cause the error

#8301 2 years ago
Quoted from OlliG:

Not sure if I understand it correctly....You pulled on the bigger side of the Microswitch mounting brackets

Controlled force is how I got it out.

#8307 2 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

guys - does anyone sell the Getaway Supercharger Ramp Entrance SIGN (plastic part)? Not the metal part behind it but the plastic. I know it's prone to breaking in the corners....

See with the guy if he can offer reduced shipping in an envelope. Should be possible. If not maybe I can receive it for you and then forward it at cheaper cost.

1 week later
#8347 2 years ago
Quoted from delt31:


Definitely also interested...

1 week later
#8415 2 years ago

The post you removed was added later by the designers, because the loop shot was considered too easy. Resultingly, the fact that now you manage 10 loops easy shows that there is some reaso to that Technically speaking, it should stay where it is, if you want to play the game "as designed".

#8435 2 years ago
Quoted from Jon9508:

And the one that replaces the metal piece around the bumpers

Cliffy has a thinner metal plate that will go underneath it. Ask him for it to not kill your plastic quickly.

2 weeks later
#8517 1 year ago
Quoted from artur_n:

I worked on it a bit

I just love your shifter. Any chance i can tap into your source to get mine in leather too? How did you do this?

1 month later
#8701 1 year ago

Where on the coin door is this supposed to go?

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1 week later
#8740 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Well, I couldn't get the thought out of my head for a decal set for the coin door that has 3 raised areas, so here is my best idea.

@Tantrum having three raised areas I think might profit from looking for something that exists three times in the context of the machine's theme. What comes to mind are
- traffic lights (possibly with different lights lit)
- the white gauges from the lower targets
- the bumpers
- "5" - "0" - "4" (from the police quote)

Just sharing thoughts

#8749 1 year ago

I'll print thse on paper and post a photo

#8766 1 year ago

ollig: Ideally I would adapt the radius of the curve to the sign for supercharger and redline mania. Also, I would ocnsider replacing that original sign with your display and grabbing the signal current to those two lights and displaying SC oder RM. Definitely it would be important to match the display witht he fonts and style of the original things around the payfield otherwise it will all look a bit alien. Please consider this creative input, not critisism. Regards from Kassel

For me personally this would all be too much, but I'm sure a lot of people like it. Luckily we can all pick those mods we like Keep it up - relly cool someone is working on the Getaway with so much creativity!!

3 weeks later
#8830 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinballdad1961:

Never thought to clean underside of the inserts

A toothbrush is also really a good way to do it

2 weeks later
#8883 1 year ago
Quoted from lanfeust:

During gameplay, the ramp lift is always getting up and down, looks like it's searching for the right position...

Same here. Switch checked accordingly. it's a mystery. I'll update the room to l5 at some point. Currently on l1 or l2.

#8900 1 year ago

Yes, it is the wrong type. Replace it.

#8907 1 year ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

Clean em up, spray paint em and move that no logo one to the upper flipper and no one will probably ever notice!

Complete nonsense. Do it right or don't do it at all. Yes it's judgement.

#8911 1 year ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

Lol, I wasn't exactly being serious

Haha, didn't come across to me. Glad you weren't

2 weeks later
#8958 1 year ago
Quoted from wamonkey:

I have the coils so basically only using the plate so it should be almost 100% new.

That's what I thougt too. Turned out the original parts had been partially replaced before with indistinguishable others, which were still somehow not compatible. Ended up disassembling the assy twice.
Flippers are the one and only connection between you and the ball. No point in saving there.

1 month later
#9113 1 year ago
Quoted from Jakusu:

Hi all.
Is anyone running a pin2dmd in their machine? I'm looking at getting one for Getaway. From what I can tell the Evolution model from Germany is plug and play but I would still like to modify some animations and wording if possible down the track.
I also believe that there is no coloured version available but people are working on it slowly?
Any help or advice appreciated.


They have been blacklisted on the German Forum and the Operator of the company banned, as he is notorious for not delivering, and then not responding to emails until pressured by legal measures. There are abundant threads about the issue there. I have a PIN2DMD in my getaway and it works and looks great. I went through a lot of hassle with the company myself regarding receiving wrong parts, not receiving replacements, then receiving wrong replacements etc. I would NEVER buy another one there due to the issues with the shop. If you can get your hands on a used one, or if someone else has one in stock, you can go for it.

Here is the blacklist entry:

That's my primary advice.

This is thing siilar:

Runs on the same concept. the guy from germangamingsupplies claims that they stole his stuff.
Here is an exapmple of the muckraking between the two companies:

Decide rationally.

#9116 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I am. You can configure it to any color and brightness you like. As for a colorized version, that is a long and detailed path that I’m not willing to get into here. Just search Pinside for the topic and my name. Also, check out the VP forums to get even more history/info on Getaway colorization.
FYI, I bought mine a couple of years ago from GGS with no issues, so not sure what has changed since then.

The WHAT is obvious. The WHY - according to the german community is depression. Sad, but absolutely not viable for doing business. I'm not trying to flame or troll. This is an honest and genuine heads-up to save yourselves some trouble.

#9124 1 year ago
Quoted from Jakusu:

I'd actually pay double a colordmd if there was a good solution

If money is not your primary concern I can find someone to sell a PIN2DMD in GErmany, and help organizing payment and shipping to Australia (or bring it over and ship from Darwin personally in April). PM me if interested.

#9138 1 year ago
#9169 1 year ago

HEy guys, just waned to let you know im selling a fw things from my getaway:

1. Set of Chrome Ramp Flaps - USD 22,50
These I had done, alongside some other stuff, just to see how they come out. The rear flap came out excellent, the front one has some spots from where there was rust before. I took three photos, one to really emphazise the rust spots, so noone complains after.

2. Original Getaway Apron - USD 40

3. Set of original plastics - USD 51

All items are as shown, there is nothing more or less than what you see. I am shipping from Germany. For USA I can maybe do domestic shipping, as some colleagues are occasionally over to the US. This requires patience though. Contact me via PM if interested.

apron_back (resized).jpgapron_front (resized).jpgchrome flaps C (resized).jpgchrome flaps A (resized).jpgchrome flaps B (resized).jpgplastics (resized).jpg
2 months later
#9445 1 year ago
Quoted from Mancave:

Changing the music doesn't change the playing experience in any way.

Totally disagree. Even the original tunes in stereo and remastered.... Enormous difference!

2 weeks later
#9501 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

I noticed recently that two balls are coming out at a time.

Geez. It must suck to get old...

2 weeks later
#9546 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

There is no way to wire since the metal shaft is solid.

Just find a pipe to slightly adapt at a machine shop in stead of a complicated re design based on less than ideal materials...
Just my two cents...

3 weeks later
#9587 1 year ago
Quoted from Kingpin22:

Trying to get radcals made for the Getaway!

Try to convince him to remove the "reflection" bright spot on the G and the Arrow above. It actually looks really dumb, like a the was a piece of paper covering the silk screen. Just my experience with printed decals for getaway...

1 week later
#9606 1 year ago

Can someone please measure the voltage between the supercharger ramp and ground DURING A GAME (not just with machine on). I have 72 V here and think that is not how it should be...

Thank you

#9608 1 year ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Your diverter coil has spun around and is touching the metal [...] or the coil was installed backwards.

Neither :/

IMG_20190727_181810 (resized).jpg
#9610 1 year ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

These 4 items are the only 70 volt items on the SC.

This is very helpful information. I couldn't find +70 V mentioned anywhere in the manual. I will measure these for resistance against the SC ramp tomorrow individually and see where the contact is made. Hopefully ill find this.

The flipper bat contacts i had already checked today - none of those was conductively connected to the SC...

Thanks again. I'll report on this tomorrow.

#9614 1 year ago

OK, so J127-3 was making contact with the ramp through the diverter coil. This was minor, but the source of the problem. The photo shows how I fixed it. Insulation tape. The coil itself has no plastic pin to prevent rotation.

Collaterally - and this what I want to point out - my supercharger and "weak coil-issue" disappeared. It seems the contact to the ramp was sucking power from the string supplying the SC coils. Resolving the contact issue now leaves my SC lightning fast.

IMG_20190728_104640 (resized).jpg
#9616 1 year ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Most likely not an exact replacement coil. I'm not sure how long the tape will last tho. I think if you reverse the coil the other coil bracket will not touch the wires even if it rotates a bit because its shorter.

I contemplated getting a different coil, but the fact that other people have had similar issues tells me that here there might not have been a coild with a pin used to begin wth. anyway, reversing the coild I also tried but then it actually sits really loose. The tape solution will last. I used two layers on the coil stop, and two more on the coil itself. after installing the coil I fixed it with a cable tie to not move at all. Anyway, I'm happy that the issue is resoved.

#9618 1 year ago

I thought I did, but I don't

#9644 1 year ago

I'm selling my pin2dmd, fully activated and ready to go due to a surprise upgrade possibility for my own. It's currently running in my getaway.

Is the v3 set here:

As you likely know this vendor is notorious for ridiculous delivery times and bad service and terrible refund policies and there are many complaints about him all around. He's named from the German forum for that reason.

This set is fully ready to go and directly available from me. If anyone in Europe is interested, please pm.

I'll let it go for EUR 165 plus shipping.
rgbpindmd-set-v3-ready-to-go-128x32-standard-dmd_1_2 (resized).jpg

#9646 1 year ago
Quoted from Malenko:

I guess you dont like the colorization thats out for the getaway for pin2dmd? Its almost complete

You sent it to me on my request on May 11th, but I havent gotten around to installing it yet. I will try it out, but - my bad - haven't yet.

Is there any way of getting informed about updates to the file?

#9648 1 year ago
Quoted from Malenko:

I just uploaded a new version 2 days ago

Is there any demo video on this colorization available somewhere? I must say I am curious, but soo time limited these days...

#9653 1 year ago
Quoted from Beaumistim:

You ship to the USA?

Nope. As I wrote above. Anyhow, it's already sold.

#9669 1 year ago

malenko I managed to install the colorization today. I have exactly 3 files on my SD card: keyfile and the two from your zip file.

I do like to colorization overall, but also notice the bugs here and there. That said I am looking forward to seeing it improve over time and will definitely leave it in the machine, even in the current state.

Please do announce updates to the files here, so we don't miss out

#9695 1 year ago
Quoted from FlippinJimmy:

Since I have everything off the PF I have considered getting a protector.

I have one on mine and it's an amazing thing ball is silent and smooth. However, here it seems to be a polarizing topic.

1 week later
#9759 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I just purchased the new PinSound shaker kit, and I’ve been asked if I would do the programming for The Getaway.

i saw the shaker before and decided to defer until at some point you had one and posted a file to get it running. this is really great news
you should have it spell out "Tantrum" in morse code when the credits are displayed ...

"TANTRUM" = "- .- -. - .-. ..- --"

1 week later
#9816 1 year ago

mr_tantrum: when you are done with the profile for pinsound and they approved it, ask them if they can give you a referral link. I am sure everyone here will be more than happy to use it as a means of thanking you for all the customization effort you are making for us

#9828 1 year ago

I ordered a pinsound shaker kit for my Getaway yesterday and mentioned in the comments field that this order is only due to the fact that you are doing the orchestration. I asked them to give you credit for this, whatever that may mean.

Since I know your dedication I am already really looking forward to receiving the kit!!!

2 weeks later
#9864 1 year ago

So here is the recent addition to my Getaway: The CPR backglass. It not yet installed due to the old trimming being to tight for the 4mm glass. I will need to purchase the 3/16 " version and see how to make that work.

The colors are brilliant and the mirror looks very nice.

One drawback is the position of the image on the glass. It sits very low, so where the bottom will be covered by the trimming, the top will show a gap. Being completely honest - if it was not international shipping I would likely have it exchanged for this reason. But then again - I'm a perfectionist.

IMG_0211 (resized).JPEG
2 weeks later
#9875 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

the custom plastic for me that I'm including with the mod

was tere a photo of that somewhere? did i miss it?

#9877 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

It replaces the original mountain plastic with the graphic on it.

Ahh... The clear one. OK, that makes sense.
I was thinking about the one the mountain sits on. Because there I have a problem. I'm using pinbits' protector plastics which are adding thickness. This results in the nuts barely biting into the threading on the posts. Considering needing to put the mountain on top of that will surely not let the nuts bite anymore. For me this is why I am hesitant to buy the mod - it would mean I need to remove the protector plastics.

#9878 11 months ago

BTW I just posted a review with photos of the CPR full mirrored backglass for "High Speed 2: The Getaway". Enjoy the read

#9883 11 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

be a replacement for the wife

as long as your wife has two buttons to push, a nice backbox and decent shaker, i don't think an upgrade is necessary. lol. sorry - i couldn't resist...

#9904 11 months ago
Quoted from ajnin:

Yo, sorry man can you post a picture ?

I googled this image for you. Does Google not work on your computer?
hs14 (resized).jpg

1 week later
#9930 11 months ago
#9932 11 months ago

Things I've noticed:

Videomode is not colored
Millions upon superchager loops: "2Million" is blue
Attract mode: the shifting animation is problematic

just off the top of my head

#9936 11 months ago

That whole board is around 20 EUR...

Shouldn't be different in the US.

1 week later
#9964 10 months ago

Today I installed the PinSound Shaker as the latest enhancement of my completely pimped out Getaway ( The shaker integrates perfectly, thanks to the orchestration created by mr_tantrum. Tantrum this is a really awesome job!!!

The installation was easy. However, opposing the manual, I advise against "hammering down" the claw nuts into the cabinet. It is absolutely sufficient pulling them in while tightening the screws. Hammering on an assembled pinball machine shouldn'T really be the reccommended way to go anyhow..

Anyway, after I had changed the flipper button leaf switches to optos some time ago ( and installed the CPR Backglass recently (, the only things I am now still contemplating is Tantrum's Mountain Mod (but honestly not sure about it), and the crazy Pinduino Supercharger light strip.

Otherwise I think this thing is actually done with nothing left to do. Super happy!

#9968 10 months ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Well there's always my mod

uhm... no way. Simply lighting everything that can be lit isn't in line with my very personal understanding of tasteful modding. More is not always better. Same goes for adding a bunch of matchbox cars, 3D printed stop lights or similar toys, which break with the look and feel of the original design language. Each to his own tho.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Was there any programming of the pinsound shaker?
Did you order it pre-programmed?
Or was it pretty much plug and play?

The Shaker comes preprogrammed. The stock program was created by tantrum upon request by the PinSound guys. It can be modified, but I like it as is.
Installation is rather plug and play, but does require some drilling. There is also a details video on that at The recommended location of the Shaker didn't quite suit me, but that's not a big deal.

1 week later
#9974 10 months ago

malenko just posted an update of the PIN2DMD files.

Thanks for the ongoing effort!!!

#9979 10 months ago
Quoted from Malenko:

replaced it with the plastic protector that would go on top.

Plastic protectors go UNDERNEATH the plastics to protect against ball impact from below. It's counter intuitive - I installed them on top first time as well, and changed that later.

2 weeks later
#10018 9 months ago
Quoted from Biglouie:

Looks like my BALL LANE FEEDER ASSEMBLY is bent out of shape, I get a poor return into the lane, it bounces back into the trough quite often.

The bounce back is not related to that arm being bent, IMHO. The Languide underneath the apron is what defines the angle of the ball entering the shooter lane and that is what needs to be adapted. Regardless, straightening that arm wont harm. The bounceback into the trough seems to be a common issue though.

#10055 9 months ago

One question. When you carefully push in the right flipper button, which flipper activates first? Top right or bottom right?

#10071 9 months ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

Thanks very much! What percent would you say is complete?

read this thread or the infomration at VPU. it'S all there. dont be lazy and load that on others.

2 weeks later
#10127 8 months ago

This will be incredible in the techno mix!!!! Thanks for those call outs

#10150 8 months ago
Quoted from spblat:

Also I re-recorded everything. And I doubled everything up. So these are in stereo and I hope you guys like it. I might need a pinsound for my getaway now!

However, counter intuitively, stereo is a BAD choice for voice. Here is why:

mr_tantrum can these assetts be easily saved as mono in pinsound explorer. if not, plese let me know and I will try to convert them to mono with audacity.

#10152 8 months ago
Quoted from spblat:

These callouts were not recorded with a stereo microphone. The stereo recordings were made by recording each callout multiple times and stacking similar pairs, with one panned hard left and one panned hard right, and with time stretching corrections where needed.

Now this is great news That way we get the stereo effect with a reliable dead center position. Nice!!!
BTW: The voice is absolutely awesome and a great fit. I would dare to say you could compete with Ritchie himself

1 month later
#10310 7 months ago

To my understanding speakers with higher resistance will not do harm to the amp. Lower resistance speakers will. The 8 ohm should be safe. If they sound good is a different question.

#10312 7 months ago
Quoted from Passave:

would take more power to drive a bigger resistance load

This is the case if the amp is current driven, which I think it is not. To my understanding the amp is voltage driven and the resulting current is simply lower as a result of the higher resistance. That in return results in less power to the speakers and in less output of the speakers are of similar quality.

The amp would have a problem with lower resistance speakers because more current will be drawn at the same voltage, overloading the amp. This is generally not the case.

Anyway, this is just more general knowledge of a few semesters of the basics of electronics, I got collaterally while studying physics. I didn't get into the details of amplifiers of this type to be certain about Williams ones. Curious tho how exactly they do it.

#10314 7 months ago
Quoted from spblat:

in solid state amps, if the speaker impedance is too low, the amplifier will tend to overheat and more power is used up in the amplifier than is delivered to the speaker.

Thanks for the link. Apart from treating AC impedance and DC "Impedance"(=Resistance) as one and the same in that article, this is pretty much what I figured.

2 weeks later
#10361 7 months ago
Quoted from daveddd14:

Is the easiest fix to just order this and replace the board?

#10365 7 months ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

Do you really need this for $100? Thanks.

Do you really "need" a pinball machine at all?

#10377 6 months ago

All the "alternative" translites are a major break with the original feel of the art. My choice of "modified" is CPR's modified mirrored backglass...

IMG_0240 (resized).JPEGIMG_0242 (resized).JPEG
3 weeks later
#10477 6 months ago
Quoted from Pinstein:

I made a new alternate translite with a little more story and sex appeal. Fun for some!

It's skillfull, but mismatched like most of the other ones that make use of photorealistic art. Getaway is NOT NOT NOT photorealistic. No matter how skillful the maker. Please apply your skill to matched art and I am sure the result will be great!

1 month later
#10664 4 months ago
Quoted from JohnnyArcade:

It’s not associated to this game on Marcos website.

It should be stated in the manual.

2 weeks later
#10684 3 months ago
Quoted from Barr993:

I believe that is the gate for the ball return trough to stop the balls from bouncing back into the outhole.

it is the shooter lane gate

1 week later
#10691 3 months ago
Quoted from peteyhugs:

Added a little chrome molding to the back box.

Welcome to the club - the beauty of pinball is everone can do what he likes best with his machine - even chrome molding on a getaway

1 week later
#10702 86 days ago

A forum member in the german forum is contemplating re-creating the double bumper post that holds the supercharger, part no. 02-4423-1, which has been unobtainium for quite some time.
He'll make it from stainless steel, and possily reinforce the upper threading, so it doesn't break as easily as the original.

You can express your interest here:

I can help out with the international shipping.

Getaway_Post_V2_2020-Jun-29_07-52-44PM-000_CustomizedView17482466215 (resized).png
#10704 86 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

For US buyers, it might be easier if one person bought several and had them shipped here

So, why don't the two of us take the role of that proxy?
US buyers pay the seller directly for the product and have it sent to me.
Buyers pay me the idle fraction of the shipping cost and I relay it to you, registered parcel.
Buyers then pay local shipping to you and you distribute.

I will gladly do that, but I will not assume liability for anything happening with the shipment (damage or loss).

#10708 85 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

- cost of part
- number of US commitments
- shipping to me based upon that quantity
- shipping to US for quantity of 1 to deem if it’s worth it for everyone to not just buy direct themselves

I'll figure this out and post as soon as i know more Thanks for joining in

2 months later
#10735 25 days ago

Pinball center is known to have very questionable quality on a few items. This is a beautiful example

#10738 24 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

They are mostly high quality items from what I see

Trust me. I have ordered a lot there, due to the german legal right of returning within 2 weeks after receipt and the competivive pricepoint. Within the range of german shops they are definitely the low end to my experience. Their LEDs are decent, anything art related is usually average or worse. Plastics mixed, Stickers and decals a disaster. I have also had mxed experience with some of the assembly spare parts. Some wouldn't even fit at all.

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