Quoted from Mancave:

You mean the ball is hitting it?, nahh it shouldn't be. Is the ramp lifting up fully, perhaps something getting jammed in the mech?

Quoted from flynnibus:

To everyone that ordered CPR Plastics for getaway (in the past or recently)...
I have been discussing with Kevin@CPR about the hole template on the set. I got a replacement set recently, and found the holes drilled for the layered plastics on the slingshots and near the shooter lane where the plastic snap-in standoffs were used were not big enough.
By stand-offs... I mean these fun puppies..
[quoted image]
Kevin says they've not had any issues with this in the past, and we're trying to understand if this is 'steve is stupid' moment, or if other people have had similar issues but just not brought it up (and if changes should be made!)
The specifics... the hole template seems to be 5/32 as the standard screw mount hole size. But there was no difference in size between screw mounts and these stand-off+screw mount hole locations. In particular, the gauge plastics that sit over the slingshots, and the speed sign plastic that is near the lock on the side of the playfield. Plastics at the back of the game, did have larger holes for the stand-offs.
In my case, I expanded the holes to 13/64 to make it large enough to accomodate the stand-off+bolt.
Before Kevin goes and makes going forward changes, can any of you previous buyers chime in on your experience?
Thx

Quoted from gunstarhero:

I like it, but I admit I kinda saw it different in my head. Somehow I thought you'd see the balls in the windows... although they clearly lock UNDER the building.
You don't really see them stock either with that metal plate there IIRC.

Quoted from mjenison:

Hi all,
It was brought to my attention that I'd been sitting on this for quite a while. I'm a bit of a perfectionist, and it has taken me around 36 versions of modifying the mountain to get the look (and fit) I was aiming for. Obviously, with a print this large, it takes lots of time and lots of materials to find out if changes worked out; it can be a bit of a drain on resource and time. I'll continue tweaking it along the way, but I think I'm at the point where I'm ready to make this available.
Here's the latest version of my 3D printed mountain mod. Price is $90 shipped.
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Quoted from FlippinJimmy:

Are the pop bumpers on this game a bit weak? I didn't play the game that much before I replaced the pop bumpers and cleaned it up but it seems like the pop bumpers are a bit sluggish now. What is your experience?

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

They are working on an option for the shaker to be non-dependent on PinSound, just have to be patient with their release timeline.
https://www.pinsound.org/ready-to-shake
Rev idea was already on my list![quoted image]

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Awesome, and glad you like it! Are you using my program or the default one?

Quoted from Malenko:

To update my post from forever ago, the pinduino was making F112 blow (taking out the flippers , slingshots, and launcher) and eventually taking out the 5V as well. Pulled the pinduino and replaced the fuses, ran through the switch test to clear the credit dot and everything is right as rain. Well, except I cant have that awesome pinduino mod in Getaway :/
I'll prolly order the pinblades and some other stickers for it and call it done. I really gotta get my ginger ass in gear and start my T2 PF swap

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

The "PinGuy" app works perfectly for this. Download for free from relevant phone brand store, put on level surface and calibrate, then place in center of playfield (glass off) and app will help you calibrate side-to-side and front-to-back levelling. What's nice is that the voice on the app continually calls out both axis levelling measurements, so you can be under the pin correcting the leg adjustments without having to continually bob up and down to check level.
6.5 degrees is perfect for this game IMO.

Quoted from kdunbar:

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=The_Getaway:_High_Speed_II
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

L2 is the best ROM for the game in most people's opinion. I will say, that I've been running L2 for 4+ years, and in that time I've experience the bug 4 or 5 times in hundreds of games. Regardless, it has been rare for me (oddly enough, it mostly occurred early on after installing L2). In those moments when it does occur, I just turn the pin off and consider that game lost. Not always easy to have others do the same when so much is going on, however.
Here is an explanation, but it might make your head spin: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin#post-1407053

Quoted from matiou:

Did you all see this:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/official-williams-and-bally-software-upgrades
We may get a bug free Getaway rom one of these days!

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I've done just about everything there is to do on a pinball machine, but have never undertaken the daunting task of performing a playfield swap. Always respect those that do, and actually are able to put the game back together 100%.
BTW: My Getaway would definitely benefit from a new playfield.

Quoted from AlexRogan84:

My Red Light Mania bulb on the ramp entrance sign will come on dimly anytime the 2nd gear light on the playfield below it is on. Anyone else have this happen on their machine?
I haven't measured the voltage, but I think it is a lot less than full as it is pretty dim compared to when it is on for real. It's consistent though, anytime you're in 2nd gear, that red light mania bulb also lights up dimly.
This happens at the beginning of every game as you're going through the gears and you can also see it when you change gears to start the video mode. Wasn't sure if I've got some kind of wiring crossover going on underneath that I need to figure out?

Quoted from AlexRogan84:

It sounds like this is what it must be. My game does have LED's, and I thought I had bought the non-ghosting ones, but it's entirely possible I didn't really know what I was choosing when I got them. Or it could be that a couple odd bulbs here and there got into my swap out pile.
This ghosting concept is basically where an LED will light up with just a small amount of power getting to it? And then the non-ghosting bulbs don't change the power coming to the socket, but simply don't come on unless a certain minimum power level is reached? Is that about how it is?

Quoted from Haymaker:

Don't get the non ghosting bulbs just get the non ghosting rom. I run it and it works great. The only problem is you have to go underground to get it because PPS gets mad if people try to sell them. They promised their own non ghosting rom patch years ago, but big shocker it has never showed up.

Quoted from Paseb:

hi guys, i would like to rebuild my lower flippers, i bought the rebuild kit but i assumed its a good time to put new coils at the same time?
is anyone happen to have the part number for the coil?
do i need something else at the same time or the rebuild kit is normally complete?
thx for the help.

Quoted from Paseb:

this is what i purchased with 2x new coils
https://pinballmedics.ca/product/williamsbally-flipper-rebuild-kit-021992-to-041993/
hopefully, i dont need other parts ?

Quoted from McDoom:

Hi everyone, my deal for a getaway unfortunately didn’t happen.
If you know someone in California who’s willing to sell please DM.
I was really looking forward to own this awesome machine.

Quoted from transprtr4u:

One of those games , where everything lines up!
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Quoted from Paseb:

just rebuilt my flippers and put new coils as well! what a difference in gameplay
now i want to rebuild all 3x pop bumpers, any guideline/ideas ?
what pop bumpers color do you guys use?
saw some cool colors on a local supplier
https://pinballmedics.ca/product/wms-bally-stern-transparent-coloured-pop-bumper-body/
https://pinballmedics.ca/product/wms-bally-stern-colored-pop-bumper-bodies/

Quoted from AlexRogan84:

Thank you for this. I'm not sure my own games have this orientation at every coil. I may not have known to check for this when replacing sleeves.
A new question though for anyone out there in Getaway land or similar... my balls have gotten magnetized.
It became crystal clear to me when the balls wouldn't come down out of the lock area to start multiball. I shut the game off and had a look with the glass off and playfield up on horizontal working height and sure enough the balls were not only sticking to each other a little, but the lead ball was sticking to the end of the plunger on that locker coil.
Is there a solution for this? On Getaway at least? The Supercharger is a key feature of the game and the magnets are necessary to make it go. But can we load special balls that are less prone to getting magnetized? Is that even a thing? How can you tell looking at balls on the workbench to tell which ones are which? Or is there something going on with my game that should be dialed down some to help lessen this magnetizing effect? Thanks!

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Well, I'm back in the Pinduino game on my supercharger loop. Just to refresh, I was having some supercharger speed issues and the Pinduino LED strip was one of a few factors causing the slow downs. So, I removed the strip and ordered a thinner one off eBay. The new strip work exactly like the old, but is less than half the width and doesn't obstruct the ball whatsoever.
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Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I am so tempted, but I've never done a playfield swap and just trying to think through things to determine if I want to undertake such a project.

Quoted from golfergordy:

Malenko
1) I owned a Ford Taurus built in the 1980's. I bought brake pads at a Ford dealer for it, but the pads didn't look exactly like the ones from my car. The guy selling parts searched the parts shelves and found a set of pads identical to the ones from my car so I bought them and they fit into the calipers properly. The guy told me that on rare occasion the factory runs out of the correct parts on the assembly line and then substitutes another part which will work just fine, which in my case was the calipers, and the substituted calipers were for the police car version of the Taurus. I don't know if the guy made up that story, but it sounded reasonable at the time.
2) In another example - I own a Bally Evel Knievel home model pb game that I bought brand new in 1978. To my astonishment, I discovered that a golfing buddy of mine owned the same game which he also bought in 1978. My buddy's game had a broken slingshot coil mounting bracket, and since he wasn't very handy at fixing things I went to his house and replaced the broken bracket. While I was doing the repair, I noticed that some of the hardware on his game (which is only visible when lifting up the pf) was different than on my game. I assumed that they occasionally run out of parts at the factory during assembly and just substitute equivalent parts which don't affect game play.
With the above 2 examples in my background, it seems reasonable to me that the Williams factory might substitute one kicker armature for another to keep the assembly line going. Also, since sparksterz stated above that his parts look the same as mine, I wonder if his Getaway was manufactured near the same time as mine, and the factory used the same parts substitution in both games. My serial # is 50004 090040. I hope sparksterz can tell us what his serial # is.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Can you post a pic of the area you are referencing?

Quoted from Nick_C:

Good Morning all, The more I play this game the more I see things that are not correct. strange issue, when I use the flippers, Left and right, 90 points are awarded 90% of the time, when the super charger light (yellow) is on it awards 1 million 90 points. As far as I know there are no switches that award 90 points, to award 1 million the opto on the supercharger "exit" must be temporarily covered. I looked at all connectors and the opto board for cracked solder connections, the 2 resistors seemed to have cracked solder which I removed the old solder and applied new.
I also have the diverter cycle open/close randomly when the flippers are activated.
Searched around for this type of problem without luck.
TIA

Quoted from Nick_C:

I made a separate post in the tech forum, someone replied with a link to pinwiki that described my exact problem.
Here is the link if anyone ever has this problem.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-getaway-points-added-when-flippers-activavted

Quoted from BioBa:

Made some flipper cabinet protectors for my machine. Fully laminated and removable. $15/pair if anybody wants some.
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Quoted from monkfe:

you do have to pull the diode to test them on coils...at least one leg, but you typically have to replace it (and they're cheap), but if it was bad, I think you would have other problems...have you replaced all your electrolytic caps on the PDB? espically that 5V cap(C4 I believe)?...

Quoted from Malenko:

I pulled mine out, I still clunk the shot all the time but my machine had a lot of geometry issues.

Quoted from Kobaja:

Prepare to sell it. Trust me.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I just ordered the 4mm black version from Ebay: ebay.com link: Narrow DC 5V WS2812B Led Strip Individually Addressable WS2812 Led pixel Light
I just spent a couple of days trying to figure out my supercharger speed issues - again. Since I've owned the pin, it has always been slow (average above 130 and never dropped below 120). I thought I had done everything: I've tested all the magnets and they fire, I replaced the accelerator board with a brand new one, I've replaced all of the optos, I've cleaned and even waxed the entire inside of the loop (even under the magnets), and even removed my Pinduino lighting. Yet, I still couldn't do any better than around a 130 average.
Then I was chatting with tampa12 and he mentioned how fast he had gotten his supercharger to run . . . I was jealous. He shared with me how many ohms resistance each of his coils have, and how much idle and fire state voltage was being sent to them. I got out my meter and all of my coils had between 3.2 to 4.0 ohms (which is acceptable), idle voltage was about 3 volts on each coil, and when activated by blocking the corresponding optos it jumped up to almost 50 volts at times. During the testing, however, I noticed that the center coil didn't always have constant voltage when idle. After some playing around, I determined the issue was a bad wire/connection inside the plug that provides power to the coil. I happen to have what I need to extract the wires and re-pin them. After doing this I was getting a constant 3 volts.
Unfortunately, after testing I shaved a few ticks off my timing but still couldn't get anything below 120. Then tampa12 shared with me that he used synthetic oil to very lightly lube the inside of his supercharger loop. I didn't have any and was willing to go buy a quart just for this, but then remembered I had a small amount of silicone oil which is a good clear and safe lubricant. I applied a very light coating on the inside surfaces of the supercharger loop, went into supercharger speed test, and was blown away. I was now getting average times in the low 90's and even dropped below 90 a couple of times.
I've since played a few games, and the extra supercharger speed is awesome! I then figured I would reinstall my Pinduino lighting and even applied it where it was about 1mm above the top of the loop. I put the pin in supercharger test mode, and now my average was approaching 110. I took the lighting back off, and I'm back down to the low 90's, which is what led me to ordering the light strip I reference at the first of this post based upon the lighting Sprudeldudel suggested.
I know this is a lengthy post, but hopefully others who are in a similar situation as I was will find this information to be helpful.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I used silicon oil and it has performed perfectly for months now with zero residue/mess issues. It's not like you are squirting it on, rather, an extremely thin layer wiped on with a paper towel.
BTW, the only reason I chose what I did is because Amazon was out of this stuff:

Quoted from PinJim:

I’m guessing this post shouldn’t be here. Can anyone confirm?
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Quoted from Pinash:

Got the unlimited multiball bug again. This is the second time in less than 50 plays! Looks like upgrading from L-2 is in my future.

Quoted from Spacemanratso09:

Have two 9k + games sitting next to the Getaway and all I want to do is play this game how fucked up is that

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I'm assuming you are on L2 or L5 (L1 does not offer a free ball in video mode).
Also, I never see the free ball offer in video mode now that I always drive on the left side of the road - I don't know exactly what triggers it.

Quoted from Hans_Saris:

Picked up a Getaway this weekend! Very happy with the game that plays very well!
Game came with several mods. I.e. next to the Beacon light two blue led flashers are mounted on the top of the backbox. Beacon light is working as it should, but those added Flashers do not. Looked at the wiring and it looked damaged and incomplete inside the backbox. Also believe Voltage converter (?) is broke (black on one side / looks burnt). How to best get required wiring / converter? What specific parts are needed? Would be great to have this mod working again!
Thanks for sharing any further guidance, Hans
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Quoted from monkfe:

anyone have a link to this? ...can't find it on thingiverse

Quoted from Hans_Saris:

I lost a ball once .. and found it back at the bottom of cabinet! Since it happens only once and played a lot of games since then, I dit not look into how this could possibly happen yet. So maybe take a second look into cabinet to find your ball.
Also, anyone experienced same? If so, what is flaw in game / cabinet design that this can happen?

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Cliffy's for sure (I have them on all my other games and just looked them up - mainly shooter eject and the kickback protector). However, not really a fan of the playfield protectors. Don't mean to start any arguments as they have their pros and cons, I just prefer to not use them.
My OEM playfield also has Mylar in the pop area. I don't really like it as it is rather dull compared to the rest of the playfield. Did anyone treat this area on their new playfield?

Quoted from AlexRogan84:

Saturday night. A good night for pinball. Finally rolled the scoreboard on my Getaway!![quoted image]

Quoted from Mancave:

It's not about being correct TBH. Why destroy the original when you don't need to?? Getting a rod machined up to the same specs with a thread one end is simple and relatively cheap. Price may depend on who you ask to do the job but it's not a difficult task by no means. It's just a bit of lathe work and pretty much any machine/engineering shop would do it for not a huge charge. It's like about an hours work tops!! And the best bit ..... you still have the original rod to change back to if you wish OR want to sell the machine and the new potential owner wants it original as much as possible.

Quoted from Mancave:

Hey i could get them made up for a decent price BUT add the postage to the US you guys would be able to get one made yourself for far less which makes as much sense as destroying the original. Let's face it, once the original is gone i don't think you can buy another, at least i haven't seen any for sale anyway.

Quoted from Da-Shaker:

Thank you. I’ve read that forum a couple of times. I was just trying to figure out what’s going on with my inserts. I think they’re just lifted and getting chewed up. I might end up leaving it alone for now and come back to it later.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

It's happened to me maybe 3 times in 5 years. There are a specific set of circumstances that cause it to arise. Here is the explanation I referenced sometime ago in this thread related to "endless multiball":
"However, the bug is slightly mislabeled, even though that is the generally-seen manifestation. The bug is that every 3rd ball arrival into the lockup starts multiball. So normally what happens is people have 1 or 2 balls locked, then start RLM. RLM runs normally, you get a jackpot. If you had 2 balls locked, then the arrival of the jackpot ball restarts multiball (complete with ball saver (even for multiball 2+), relaunching drained ball(s), and making light jackpot lit (i.e. 20 loops to light jackpot)). If you had 1 ball locked, then you can go for the RLM super (augmented to 100M) after RLM jackpot. If you make the super shot, then at that point that will be the third arrival, and multiball will restart. With 0 balls locked, you can get jackpot-super-super then multiball restarts.
Similarly, you could have one ball locked, get a jackpot during RLM, light lock again, lock 1 ball, multiball starts. Confused yet? It's easy for me because I understand exactly why the bug is there."

Quoted from rlbohon3:

Several years ago, I bought the flashing blue lights as a mod for my Getaway (pic of mine mounted on backbox next to beacon). I'm now working on another Getaway rest-mod project for someone else and would like to add these again. For the life of me, I cannot seem to find a source for these and cannot recall where I got mine. Does anyone recall where these came from/who offers them? See pic. Thanks!
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Quoted from kyle5574:

Disconnected/broken/failed-open diode would cause a single switch not to work, but would not affect other switches.
Shorted/failed-closed diode would cause other switches on the playfield to phantom-close, but wouldn't affect the switch with the bad diode.
You're on to something with them all being on the same column. If some other switches on that column do work, then it's something on the playfield, not the board. I would trace the Green/Brown wire upstream from each of the bad switches, and look for a break. Then measure continuity between each switch along that wire if you don't see anything right away.
I just posted a video diagnosing a switch matrix issue on my Getaway. It's not the same type of issue you're facing, but If you're brand new to switch matrix, it might help describe how the matrix works.

Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:

What do I win???
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Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I've made this point several times over the years related to the multitude of Ferrari featured Getaway mods/toys, apron cards, graphics, backglasses, etc. I don't know what it is with people that they can't differentiate between a Lamborghini and a Ferrari, but for me the difference is strikingly obvious. I've also pointed out that in the Getaway promo video Steve Ritchie is actually driving a red Lamborghini Diablo, which should settle any confusion. I guess to some early 90's red Italian super cars all look alike.
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Even if someone can't see the differences in body shape and lines (I don't know how this could ever be the case), the dead giveaway is the iconic wheel design:
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