Me too. Thought i'd try to get it with a little bristle brush some day.

Highway to hell - ACDC
Highway Star - Deep Purple

Someone will probably suggest Born to be Wild - best to resist that IMO.

My Rom identifies as P-C and while not particularly well documented I can tell you I DO NOT have the Free Ride bug, I DO have "Run the Red Light Mode" near as I can tell its basically L5 with Red Light mode patched back in. IIR L2 scores pretty high on Video mode. My P-C Rom seems to score about the same as L5 which is lower than L2. I have a virtual pin as well so I have tried all HS2 roms at some point but its been awhile so I may not remember all the differences though it seems to me like P-C is the way to go.

Mine never ever does this. Do you have a lot of wear at the eject hole area or something? Maybe a cliffy would help. Mines just starting to wear there so i ordered a cliffy the other day.

Put a piece of making tape over the wear just for a couple tests to see if it has any effect.

It was heading towards proving (or not) the need for a cliffy. But i misunderstood what was really happening. Not an issue i had encountered on this game.

Was the LED 1156 much brighter? I didn't buy one -Amazon has several- because i figured they mostly end up in tail lights on cars so probably can't be all that bright?

Mine hasn't changed, My ROM is called P-C.

I wonder if yours is progressing based on "Replay Award %" ? I had a look in the manual and this is all i saw that might be in the ballpark. It looks at the last 50 games and adjusts replay difficulty based on past achievements. No reference to this specific tunnel award though.

I never try for replays in this game so probably underachieve which might be why mine doesn't change.

I wonder if you can reset replay history in Audits and see what happens?

Sorry away from game.

Mine is 9 right now. Maybe was 8 before, can't recall.

Switch test is easy so start there but sounds to me like you'll want to have a look at the mechanism and see what's going on. There are videos if you aren't sure what you are looking at.

My pf is out right now if you need a pic.

Diablo is FI

Funny. That reminds me I have a diverter error everytime i go into test but it works perfectly every time. So ignoring it seems like the right move sometimes.

If anyone can take a moment and tell me where the "female" end of this 1-pin molex connector traces to you would be helping my aging eyes out. I had the boards out and must have it trapped behind somewhere and don't want to pull them again if I don't have to. I borrowed the pic from someone in this thread, credit to him. Much appreciated, thanks.

hs2molex (resized).jpg

The one in the pic is plugged in but also I labelled it, so with in-line connectors like this I generally put a letter on the male and female end. So that only helps if I can actually find the end unfortunately. As for if it works or not I need to debug a fuse issue F105 before I can play the game. Its a 22ga wire or so, so shouldn't be related to the fuse.

Don't take any trouble I figure someone might be in there anyway - If not I can pull the board, just not my preference. Thanks though!

Nuh uh. Specifically there are two one pin molex. I need the upper one and only the female end. Solid black. 22-24 ga

Is the molex circled with the arrow plugged into a black wire on both ends in that picture? If so i need to figure out where the female end goes. I took pics of my boards before i pulled them but that wire must've been behind the harness because I don't see it.

Actually Superbee might be right it is black with yellow. My eyes. Speakers work though.

Ok, thanks guys i think I'm good!

Yeah, so what it was is I have a Pinsound that I installed some time ago and I must've labelled this connector with the letter 'A' (for audio I guess) when i took the old board out but since that board is gone and the other end of the connector with it the label doesn't match anything. I've had this thing all apart to clean it up and re-decal the cabinet. That took months and I'm sure I thought I'd remember all this. Lol.

To make ot worse, the 'other' same size, black wire with same molex goes to the accelerator board so got me thinking this one was important also. Until Superbee pointed out it was a speaker wire.

So yeah, all coming back to me now. No issue here. Thanks all!

Absolutely

Ok another easy question. My Getaway has 2 blue square rubbers. One on each habitrail at the bottom where the ball drops.

Somewhere i read the game has 3 blue rubber squares. Where does the 3rd belong? It plays as expected so maybe 2 is the right number? Thanks!

Thanks. Guess i should have asked while i had it apart. Lol

Or you just reach in and lift the playfield out with two hands

Fair 'nuff but you also have an engine hoist which seems safer to me than the garage door method.

I have the diverter error. Even though it operates fine. I took it all apart, cleaned optos, still have the error, still plays fine. That said its annoying and I'd prefer to fix it.

Looks cool. But since the bulb in the beacon is a plain old 1156 wouldn't power have to be 12V DC?

Very slow. 100ish is the goal. Its possible you have 1 out of the 3 supercharger coils not working. You can toggle them in the Test menu and figure out which then try and fix it.

This by itself may or may not be an issue. To some extent i see the same thing with mine but i get much better speeds so you might try just cleaning the optos in case they are dirty and maybe not registering consistently when the ball is moving quickly. Mine didn't look dirty but cleaning them still made a slight difference i think. The speeds you have are about what i get if i disable one SC coil but you already have proven all 3 of your coils work at least to an extent.

You can do this with air or sometimes a q-tip and alcohol may be required.

Also, i did have a problem at one point after waxing everything with the ball slightly hitting the plastic covering the hairpin turn on the left and being slowed. Make sure yours isn't.

I have LED on my Getaway and a couple LCDs on other games. I think the smooth modes on LCD look a little forced so I run them as dots.

Side by side I prefer the LED because its brighter and more retro with real dots. It does not ghost at all during video mode on the Getaway and IMO suits this game much better than LCD.

Also its a matter of taste blah blah blah.

LED on this game for sure.

First of all LCD Hires mode never really looks good. IMO. My LCD's are on DotsXL. I bought them because they were more expensive so i assumed they would be better. Now that i have both, LED lights up better and brighter and on an older game like HS2 looks really legit like something that might be expected to come with it. That said once you have it in your hands both are fine.

All I know is I get a divertor error, I've been through the mech and its fine. The game plays as expected so I really don't know what causes the error. I did not consider the ramp as a divertor since it seems just to be called an up/down ramp in all the diagnostics. If you figure it out, please share.

My recollection is the diverter has a spring that keeps it open for the U-turn. The high/low solenoid are just that. High switches it to the SC but the low power holds it there so the high doesn't need to stay on too long.

You are correct that the enter ramp opto can cause a diverter error however in my case there seems not to be any issue with the opto and everything functions as expected despite the diverter error. It (the error) I sort of think went away for me at one point because I can't recall seeing it for a good chunk of time but I have noticed it lately though I don't recall anything I intentionally did that should have changed it. Cleaning here and there but that's all.

No idea. Why is it angled so much? Is it at risk of grounding the right lug to the metal?

Hmmm... Not a reader, are ya?

I'll be the judge of that.

So, the little characters all neatly assembled after the part you read, those are called words and their intention was simply to draw attention to something that did not look right to me in your picture. Maybe it was fine, maybe not, that is why I added another character called a question mark (?). Yes, I'm sure it was frustrating that I didn't drive home and open up my game and look or that I didn't open my pdf of the manual and have a look at the schematic and answer your wiring question but I knew someone would. So you see, the answer to your question was in my post all along.

Do tell, is there a legit service that has it streaming? In Canada? Not interested if not legit. Thanks.

IMO, Add a ColorDMD and game value increases almost dollar for dollar.

Pinsound, far as I've seen usually doesn't work out as well
Mathematically, BUT, because of Mr Tantrum's work on orchestrations for Getaway, it's probably one of the better bang for buck games to try it on.

So, buy both.

Not to state the obvious, I'm sure you checked but is it possible you have too many balls installed in the game somehow?

And of course check the switches as others have said.

Not uncommon. Sooner or later you drop 4 in a 3 ball game when you replace them. Most games will eject 2 if you do that. Or I played a game on location recently where i knocked loose a ball that was caught up somewhere but the op must already have replaced it. Had similar issues after that.

Mine has a double leaf pack, should be software independent, no?

Not that it matters I suppose just curious now. I use P-C. L2 feels like it scores too easy. Haven't investigated but definitely higher than L5 or P-C which is the best, IMO.

Believe schmelieve. If I knew for sure I wouldn't have added "no?" One more reason to ditch that lame L2 rom.

Of course. Hehe.

I'd want to make sure your EOS switch is clean and adjusted properly, it is key to minimizing overheating of the coil. Just fixed a game here last night with that issue. Coil gets way too hot and loses power.

Might be something like this but there's 2 sizes a #6 and a #8. Im not sure which. #6 is the thinner one and out of stock at Marcos.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/530-5010-01

I think the lock is supposed to let them out one at a time not together so start there. There's 3 switches in that lock I believe and they can be out if alignment and not registering properly at times. Im away from my game but fairly sure that's how it goes.

If it's not staying on when it should - check for loose wires or windings at the coil.

Check EOS switch. This is probably the issue.

EOS - "End Of Stroke". But I looked at a photo and it doesn't seem to have one. Or its a bad pic I guess.

So it might just be software controlled.

I remember now that there is a Diverter Hi and a Diverter Low test in the diagnostics (Coil tests) menu so try that and make sure both activate ok. The Low power is harder to notice because its designed to hold the diverter open and it won't do much in the normal position - you might hear a hum plus very subtle movement in the diverter would be normal.

If possible, might need a helper, you want to open the diverter with the HI coil and hold it there with your fingers while activating the LOW test and see if it remains open on its own when you let go of it. That would be what you expect.

Glad it works but it looks backwards to me now. Wiring is correct though. Weird.

Use the P-C Rom it's the best one. No bugs I've run across.

Mine had that issue when I got it. I had the mech out and its fine. No gameplay issues. I haven't seen it in quite awhile actually. Don't recall specifically what I did when it disappeared must have got lucky with something.

+1 LED here also, given the era of the game. Brighter than LCD dots and more authentic looking.

I should still have lots of pics. PM me a gmail address and I'll share a google photos album.

Edit. I just looked, Don't have as many as I thought but can share. Perhaps others will also.

Personal preference for sure but i wouldn't give up my leds. But that's me.

There's people that burnnthem

Pinballrom.com will do it. He's in Canada.

Also, group seems to prefer L-2 but mine is P-C and better IMO.

Generally you want the most recent ROM which officially is L5. But it's missing some of the DMD animations so P-C is basically L5 with this added back. I haven't played L2 much but my impression was it scores much higher so maybe that's part of the appeal for others. It might also have the multiball bug, can't remember. Mine doesn't.

I believe there are 2 prototype ROMs.

My 2 cents. Only reason to buck up for the LCD would be if you think you may end up putting it in a different game at some point. For Getaway I think most people will prefer dots and LED dots are brighter and more retro feeling. No contest IMO.

I've had broken tabs fixed on other games before. A local machinist did it. Costs more than it should but also probably stronger than ever now.

Interesting, fairly sure mine only shifts up no matter which way I push it. I'll have to check.

Mine is 3 but not the very first shot up the ramp. Need to have supercharger lit. Some of these guys use the older roms. I can't recall if that made a difference.

Scoring is pretty weird with some roms. I played one where you could get some crazy numbers off the videomode.

I have used P-C for years. Seems like basically L-5 with improvements.

No multiball bug like some have had with L2. I have all the video sequences. Supercharger always starts at 3, I think and progresses linearly. Never random. 25mil max on videomode.

I suspect L2 scores higher though but it's been awhile and I didn't know the game as well back then.

Saw your comment, took a look and my guess is this is the Soren code since the docs match what he said about it on pinside. Too bad, I just ordered an NVRAM a day or two ago from pinballrom.com and could have got it burned/saved shipping costs had I known about it earlier.

https://vpuniverse.com/files/file/4884-getaway-high-speed-ii-the-l-5c-competition-mod/

Documentation calls it a patch but the file on vpuniverse looks like its already been patched (it is a .rom file). Who knows.

Personally I wouldn't want to give up the dual mode flippers since I've had them all along but my rom is fairly undocumented so would be nice to get something more mainstream that isn't buggy. So far this sounds like the best option. Worth a try at least.

====================

"Disclaimer

The purpose is subtle changes to correct bugs and make the game better suitable for competition usage. Through balancing random elements, scoring and the relative reward for game objectives.

It is made as a fan based project and shared free of charge.

The patch is supplied as-is without any warranties and support. Use at your own risk.

Please take care when patching the software, creating a physical ROM and installing the ROM in your game. Make sure you do every step of the process correctly. With new software installed, the game may restore factory default settings. Clearing all adjustments, statistics and high scores.

Release note

Changes
The premature multiball (re)start bug - fixed.
With tournament play unselected: Multiball may be removed from Burn rubber awards (with adjustment A.2 13).
Secret mania is scrapped.

Why it rocks
Correct light locks, lock balls, start multiball, jackpot and super jackpots logic.
Secret mania messes up the traffic lights progress and potentially have more hazardous side effects.

Note
With tournament play selected: Multiball is still the fifth Burn rubber award (when no extra balls selected)."

I've got it. Just PM.me an email Addy or something.

Deleted

My original CMOS RAM chip at U6 failed according to the onboard diagnostics. That's why I ordered an NVRAM. No matter what it's not plug and play but I have a socket coming so be easier for future. 28 pins + bad close up eyesight makes it harder than it needs to be but it'll be fine. Every time I do a job like this these days I announce its the last time but here I am again, looking forward to it actually. Have a new soldering iron I will be using.

Hmmm. I'll check that first before I go straight into eyestrain mode installing the chip.

Been using the L5-C rom a few days now. Seems like the way to go. Nice to have a usable ball save. Haven't seen any multiball or other bugs so far. RTRL is there. More variables around how the supercharger scores than what I had before but seems to be some logic to it that I am learning. Can't compare to L2, been way too many years. Better than L5.

As discussed above. Possibly the Soren rom. No official confirmation on that. All changes are documented with the rom file on VPUniverse.

I'm out of town but from memory. It does NOT say L5C on startup. It does have RTRL though.

Played last night. RTRL just flashed for like a couple seconds then disappeared. That sucks.