(Topic ID: 78179)

Getaway Club ~ Dispatch, run a make on license plate KINGPIN

By MrSanRamon

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

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  • Latest reply 2 days ago by firehawk618
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“Which S/W Version do you use?”

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(Multiple choice - 348 votes by 346 Pinsiders)

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#99 10 years ago

On my way to joining the club! I put the money down on one today. Joe is holding it for me until my wife and I get moved into our new home. Can't wait - been looking for a HS2 for a lil' while - can't wait to take some pictures for everyone to see once it gets here!

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fs-the-getaway-01475-ma-1

2 weeks later
#146 10 years ago

Mountain and key mod came in today. Just waiting for HS2, which was finally picked up in Boston today.

MountandKey.jpgMountandKey.jpg

#162 10 years ago

Got my LEDs from Cointaker today. Getaway comes in sometime between 10am - 1pm today (I hope....).

LEDs_Box.jpgLEDs_Box.jpg

#163 10 years ago

Well, look who arrived today ...

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#188 10 years ago

Anyone know the thread size for the screw that holds the mini traffic light in place? My traffic light likes to shake a decent bit when I hit the post directly in front of it.

#191 10 years ago

So I started learning the audio wiring on HS2 lastnight. I followed the two wires from the left backbox speaker. The black/yellow stripe wire goes to the audio board - got it. Where does the black wire go to? There was simply too much wire for me to follow it to its final destination.

#195 10 years ago

Wow, thank you so much! I thought I was going crazy when I thought the wire was changing color on me.... yeesh

#197 10 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

Anyone know the thread size for the screw that holds the mini traffic light in place? My traffic light likes to shake a decent bit when I hit the post directly in front of it.

N/M, I figured it out.

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4006-01003-06

That's what I used, and now my mini-traffic light is anchored down like all get out!

Traffic_Light_Bolt.jpgTraffic_Light_Bolt.jpg

1 month later
#230 9 years ago
Quoted from Sgtmax:

Does anyone know where I can buy the flasher mod for on top of the backbox?
And also if anyone knows where to get the lit police cars for the playfield?
Thanks

Cars: http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lighted-police-cars-mezelmods

Flasher mod: http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hs2-getaway-blue-led-police-flasher-mod-4-sale

You can thumbs-up this post now, please .

2 weeks later
#270 9 years ago
Quoted from badpenny61:

I know this isn't much for you pros but I just beat the crap out of my HS2, jackpot 3 super jackpots 2 heilocopter bonuses with extra balls, the longest MB I have ever seen. I was juggling balls like a madman on crack...hey!

[attachment=1675498,]

Man, I am happy to get one jackpot .... Good job!!!

#280 9 years ago

So I had a weird anomaly just occur. I was testing the start of multiball and I slung the balls into the donut shop by hand. The coil let only 2 out of 3 balls out for multiball; it left the third one in the "locked" position. I noticed this, and I tried to gently push the "lock rod" down by hand to get the 3rd ball out. I could tell the lock rod wasn't going to give, so I just kept playing. Then, the game reset all by itself.

I went into diagnostics, and the coil behaved just fine after that; it brought the "lock rod" fully down during the test time in diagnostics mode. Then, I played three games - all of them enabling multiball by use of the flippers rather than "hand slinging" them into the donut shop, and all three times the game played just fine - no problems at all.

There's no credit dot or anything. Game is playing just fine.

Any thoughts? Was that just a random fluke? I read up on PinWiki for reset issues, but this isn't a pattern yet, and the coil was acting up not letting the third ball loose; it wasn't like "all is well" and then "BOOM...reset!"

Figured I'd ask before letting it mess too much with my head!

#283 9 years ago
Quoted from Billy16:

If you are running L-2 I wouldn't be too worried, mine also does this on occasion--then acts as if nothing had happened the next game.

Cool. Yep, I am running L-2 as well! Figured it was a bit of a random glitch, which leads me to my next response...!

Quoted from MustangPaul:

Have you lifted the pf and checked that assembly for any type of binding, broken or cracked parts? You could have a coil sleeve going bad, it's an old game.

I am sure that could be the cause of it. I want to get a decent sized order going before buying this part. No use paying $5.00 shipping for a $0.50 part .

#284 9 years ago

Ok, so upon further testing today, it appears I have/had the dreaded "both flippers at the same time" reset problem. Found some loose board mounting grounding screws - that wasn't it. So I went to every wire connector on the Fliptronics board and reseated them. So far, everything is good. I hit the flippers together every time a ball drained, the Supercharger was active, or every time a ball locked, and everything went well - tonight....

Next, I am going to take all the wire connectors loose on the Fliptronics board, clean all of the male pins with coarse sandpaper, clean the female ends with tarnish-removal spray, apply dielectric grease to all of those connections, and re-seat all of those connectors back into place.

I am basically following these instructions in descending order: http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets

#286 9 years ago
Quoted from Geocab:

I had a bad ribbon cable causing resets. It didn't take much effort to pull it off.

Do you remember which one ?

#290 9 years ago

You, sir - are THE MAN.

Thank you! Ordered one already!

I narrowed my problem down to cold start resets. I am thinking it is the thermistor. I could get a piece of 10 gauge wire and bypass the thermistor to find out. I'd like to know if it is that or not before the "daughterboard" comes in.

#296 9 years ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

Isn't this just a well-engineered, well packaged hack?

Oh nice try...you almost got me...then I remembered my Pinside avatar.

2 months later
#356 9 years ago

Added the ball trough cliffy today. I am pleased with it. Looks SO much better.

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#358 9 years ago

I sure did . Some some amounts of alcohol and some paper towels, and the wood underneath the apron is looking way better !

#362 9 years ago

So, if you're like me, you see a speaker like this and shudder:

image006-691.jpgimage006-691.jpg

Well, time to fix that problem. This speaker is available at Parts Express at this link:

http://www.parts-express.com/prv-audio-6mb200-4-6-1-2-midbass-woofer-4-ohm--294-2703

image002.jpgimage002.jpg

That is exactly the speaker in the picture; it is a 100% plug and play install (in terms of fitting in the cabinet).

I love speakers like this - no super duper fancy packing. Just simple box, open and "ooo..ahhh!"

image003.jpgimage003.jpg

Here is a comparison of the new and old.

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And here it is installed in HS2:

image001-893.jpgimage001-893.jpg

Sounds darn good overall - well worth the money. Already installed one in BSD as well. For $30, you can't go wrong!

#364 9 years ago

I already tested the speaker, and it works 100%.

Now I have factory backbox speakers, this new cabinet speaker, and the Polk external subwoofer.

It gets loud in here.

I am currently working on a cross-reference set of speakers for the backbox - won't have any results for a while. I am still finishing up BSD as well as learning how to rebuild flippers. Didn't know I needed a flipper bushing until after the order came in .... thankfully I didn't start the rebuild yet.

#367 9 years ago

For your BB speakers, did those replacements hook right up with zero modifications? One of the factory speakers looks to be 3.5" and the other 5.25" - which would mean to me their mounting points are differently spaced.

How did it work for you?

#371 9 years ago

BAD info. Post deleted - see my post further down the page for proper backbox speaker replacements.

#373 9 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

What's the power rating for the audio board in the game?

I wouldn't worry too much about that. The speaker doesn't draw power directly from the audio board's amp. You're not going to toast your on-board amp if that's your concern.

http://www.dziedzic.us/wpc_speaker_selection.html

#377 9 years ago
Quoted from pinnyheadhead:

I had 3 balls in the Supercharger today for the first time. My supercharger fortunately still flies and those balls were whipping around like bullets! Needless to say my 30 times around to light the Super Jackpot was done easily and I hit it for 100 Million! I love this game.
Thanks New PinOwner for the speaker advice. Great detail on the how to and what!

Thank you - if you're referring to the dot us link I provided, that was by someone else. It is a bevy of great info, so I definitely wanted to share it with everyone. I appreciate it. One thing though - DO NOT go with the translite speakers in those photos. They put out WAY more bass then you'll want. I have since installed other speakers:

3.5" : http://www.parts-express.com/pyle-wave-plx32-3-1-2-coaxial-speaker-pair--267-770

5.25" : http://www.parts-express.com/pyle-pl53bl-blue-label-5-1-4-triaxial-speaker-pair--267-080

Those work GREAT. They each have tweeters, so your trebles (voice call outs) won't be drowned out by bass. This was mainly the case on BSD. Since these speakers come in pairs, I just swapped them out on HS2 as well. The price difference was staggering - nearly $90 less than the Daytons and these sound WAY better.

The cabinet speaker I installed earlier is still a great buy; I did NOT change that out.

Hope that clears up any confusion.

Speakers017.jpgSpeakers017.jpg

3 weeks later
#396 9 years ago
Quoted from Mancave:

OK, installed new plastics (check), went with the rebel ones (check), after being inspired by MustangPaul i've added a led strip for the highway and for the gauges (check), added green led strips under the plastics either side (check), added a MezelMod start key (check and LOVE it) and also added a 1/48th scale Lamborghini Diablo with led strip (CHECK). OHHH and also waxed and polished as well (and about time too). I'm really happy with the results, have i missed anything??

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What did you do to your flippers???

1 month later
#417 9 years ago
Quoted from Sniperone:

Can you share with us where one buys this protector please?

Directly from the man himself .

http://www.passionforpinball.com/protectors.htm

You must email him first telling him what you want.

He is also here on Pinside.

#425 9 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Anyone ever have balls jam on the left rpm lane? Now and then the ball will catch something up top, below the supercharger and out of view, when hitting the left rpm loop. It sounds like it rattles around or there is one big clunk then it rolls back down. Other times it's completely smooth and fine. I don't see anything there that would snag the ball so it makes no sense. It's pretty frustrating when you nail the perfect shot for a jackpot and then get the ball rejected. Is this normal?

I would say no. Are there any wires hanging low keeping the ball from making the shot?

#430 9 years ago

You need to have someone play it and you observe the ball's behavior. That, or get the ball in hand and try to make it happen slinging the ball up there. You might be able to slowly get closer and closer until you can visually see what is happening.

#439 9 years ago

And just to think, it all started with me wanting to install a cliffy for the mountain scoop ....

It_All_Started.jpgIt_All_Started.jpg
#442 9 years ago

Hey B_R. I am tracking with you my man. HS2 is pretty well torn down save for the pop bumpers and some random trim. I used the Mother's Aluminum Polish you recommended - holy crap. The stuff I got off is insane. Gone full in to install the scoop cliffy while I'm in here. It's a dang mess, but I got control of it. Watched your videos - rivets on my diverter are ok. I will be thoroughly cleaning the SC and everything with it, along with changing out the coil sleeve on the diverter and cleaning up any joints I can see.

This definitely just became a weekend project, but hey, no problem!

Couple pictures from all of the fun. Sorry that they're not in any discernable order. I'm busy applying the second coat of wax right now.

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#446 9 years ago

Haven't thought much about doing that. I love my plain ol' bumper caps in traffic colors: red, yellow, and green.

Calling it a night for now. Got the scoop cliffy installed. Found a full rubber kit and couldn't help myself, changed all the rubbers tonight and gave the machine 2 coats of wax. I'll continue the rebuild into Saturday. I need to remember why I did this to begin with: to inspect and clean my SC and diverter ....

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#449 9 years ago

Kickback assembly has been cleaned, polished, and reassembled. Pop bumper caps back as well.

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#454 9 years ago

What rivets did you use to do that??

#455 9 years ago

Kicker assembly reassembled and installed.

Way behind but I'll be working through the night starting at about 9pm.

Kick_Assembly_Ready.jpgKick_Assembly_Ready.jpg

#458 9 years ago
Quoted from tilted81:

The flaps come with press on rivets. I used a 3" c-clamp that I bought at menards.. It was a cheapo, then modified it to work.. It was pretty simple and I can post pics if anyone's interested. I think the clamp was like 5 bucks or less.

I sure am please!

#459 9 years ago

Making some progress. Polished up and tuned up everything under the apron, cleaned the apron of the old residue and advertisement stickers, polished up the right habit trail, re-installed it and the lock ball switches that go to it.

We're getting there...!

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#463 9 years ago

More progress.....

Got the Donut Shop back on as well as the traffic light. Now, I am working on polishing the SC track. The magnet assembly I do not want to mess with, so I'll take some AL polish, some rags, a long screw driver and get "in the magnet tunnel" really well. Cleaning the optos with glass cleaner as well. Already changed out withe diverter's coil sleeve, cleaned and polished the arm mechanism, and reassembled it.

Is the diverter's arm linkage supposed to have play in it - meaning - is the linkage supposed to simply pivot for the arm to move, or is the linkage also supposed to be able to move side to side as WELL AS pivot? I'll get a video up in a bit to visually show what I'm trying to describe...

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#471 9 years ago

Supercharger is coming along.....

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#472 9 years ago

Supercharger back in place. All optos transmitters and receivers cleaned with glass cleaner, solder joints re-heated, extra solder on each, all continuity checks done to ensure joints are good. Taking a break and getting lunch with my better half, then back in I go to finish it.

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#473 9 years ago

Game is back together. It is saying I have a bad opto - literally - it says "bad opto" for #3 in the test mode. I have voltage at the transmitter. Is this just a case of misalignment, or is there something I can do to 100% confirm it is a bad opto?

#478 9 years ago

Coincidentally, the F103 fuse finally bit the dust tonight and the SC was totally dead. The hint was no power at pins #1-3 on J106 of the accelerator PCB. Traced back to the power driver board and still no voltage. Ultimately, this guy's website saved me on that one:

http://www.aaarpinball.com/Getaway/getaway.htm

Couple other things....

The ball lock switches had to be adjusted as they were not letting the balls roll out at the start pf multiball. Also, waiting on a new plunger as mine is nearly a spear from being played so much. It's firing the ball everywhere but "in the loop" at the beginning. I know the mounting of the shooter lane solenoid needs to be adjusted, but until the new plunger comes in this needs to wait as it would be pointless to do it with a "wonky" shaped plunger.

Back to the main problem....checked all SC optos in switch test mode. Took #2 and #3 transmitters and swapped them, meaning I desoldered #3 and moved it to #2's spot and vice versa - no effect - the problem did not "follow the move" so to speak. Getting voltage on all transmitters of about 1.58V. Took a photo of the transmitter in question - bright purple light showing clearly. I went to the accelerator board and disconnected, reconnected, and wiggled all the connectors trying to make the opto trigger out of "bad" - no effect.

Next.... ?

HS2 is being a brat, but we'll get it worked out.

#481 9 years ago

^^ I assume when you say "3 opto board", you mean the accelerator board? Just making sure I am not missing something.

#485 9 years ago

It's ok tilted . We'll get it!

So, here's what I have done so far.

1. Checked transmitter for voltage. Received about 1.58V DC.
2. Verified light coming from transmitter with camera phone.
3. Swapped transmitters with one of the known working ones.
4. Swapped the receiver with a brand new one.
5. Checked fuse F103 and replaced as during the troubleshooting it blew and I lost all SC functionality. Once F103 was changed, the revolving light and magnets 1 and 2 came back online, but magnet 3 is still disabled due to opto 3 being stuck open.
6. Took off all connectors to the accelerator board and put them all back on and wiggled all of them.
7. Disconnected and reconnected the molex connectors where the wiring harness "meet" so the SC can be removed from the game.

I'm doing my homework but am starting to run out of ideas. My next thought is to remove the accelerator board and reflow all the solder joints to be safe. Can't imagine I did anything to any of the joints, but it is possible.

#486 9 years ago

Did some small things tonight.

New cliffy in-lane protectors
New shooter lane plunger
Re-aligned shooter lane plunger assembly and widened shooter lane's right metal wall. This allowed the ball to "make the loop" at the beginning of each ball again! Once the adjustment screw had been moved, I had to drill a very small hole in the PF for the accompanying "anchor" screw to have a place to reside. It's the only way to ensure the right metal wall will not wiggle back into place; there was no pre-drilled hole. With the anchor screw in place, there's no way the right metal wall can make its way back - this is of course if your adjustment screw is not solidly in place. Me....rather than hope the adjustment screw will hold in place, I prefer to have a fail-safe

Will continue diagnosing opto problem tomorrow.

Cliffy_Left.jpgCliffy_Left.jpgCliffy_Right.jpgCliffy_Right.jpgShooter_Lane_Plunger.jpgShooter_Lane_Plunger.jpg

#497 9 years ago

BOOM. Got it!!!!!!!

It was a bad transmitter. Be VERY careful how much faith you put in the idea of swapping transmitters...

I say that because I did it, and it was not until I introduced a completely new opto transmitter that I fixed the problem.

Video explaining things below. Pictures are from when the shop job was initially complete. I didn't want to share them until I figured out the problem. BOOM!

Once again, WeirPinball came in and saved the day. Thank you for your help, Scott!

Cleaned_up.jpgCleaned_up.jpg

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