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(Topic ID: 78179)

Getaway Club ~ Dispatch, run a make on license plate KINGPIN

By MrSanRamon

7 years ago

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  • Latest reply 14 hours ago by waldo34
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#2160 4 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Oh yea, I'm digging the red posts and clear rubbers:


Hey, where did you get those flipper toppers?

#2162 4 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Oh yea I'm digging it


Is that yellow or orange, and is that the teal topper with green?

#2180 4 years ago
Quoted from steve1515:

PM me your shipping info, and I'll send you a total cost.

You can send designs to many different board houses. I usually use OSH Park because it's a high quality place and I've had good results from them.
Would you like to purchase one too?

BTW, how have your target stickers held up?

#2181 4 years ago

I am a newbie to pinball, and just acquired a Getaway HS2. I am doing a variety of upgrades, and from what I've seen in the forum I like the Red-Yelloy-Green bumper mod with the BriteCaps bumper lighting. My plan was to go with the colored lighting matched to the bumper cap: Red-Red, Yellow-Yellow, Green-Green. However, I have a few questions for those of you who have done it.

1) Did you use colored lighting or white lighting with just a colored cap?
2) Can you buy the caps from BriteCaps that go with the lights or do these not fit our pin?
3) Regardless of #2, I cannot seem to find a transparent green bumper cap from all the suppliers I have found online. Any suggestions?

#2182 4 years ago

For those of you who have gone with the translucent rubber rings, I have a couple of questions:

1) Did you use 2.5" or 3.0" for the slingshots (calls for 2.5", but have read some places that owners of other pins thought they were too tight, so they went with 3")
2) I am looking to acquire from Pinball Life, but they do not carry the 7/16" ID (supplier does not make them). Schematic calls for 8 of these. Is there an alternate supplier or an alternate size I should use (PBL has either 3/4" or 3/8" ID rings).

#2190 4 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

I have red, yellow and green jewelled caps on mine. I think they look amazing. Hard to take good photos with my phone but here are a few.


Where did you get your jeweled caps? I can't seem to find green anywhere. Also, are you using the same color LEDs as caps or white?

#2193 4 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Oh yea, I'm digging the red posts and clear rubbers:


Where did you get your high speed flipper toppers? Is there one for the top right flipper?

#2201 4 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Here are the caps:
I have sampled a ton of cap LEDs but I'm liking the pop bumper LEDs from Comet:
I chose to match the led to the color of the pop but I also wondered how natural or warm white would look in the pops.
Lots of options out there bud. Good luck

Guess I was being too literal being new to pinball. So non-Williams toppers will fit the Williams poppers (i.e. the only difference is the styling)?

#2210 4 years ago

Has anyone every inventoried or had access to a list of hardware used on the playfield (i.e. screws, nuts, washers, etc.)? Most of mine are in bad shape (highly oxidized to the point that it takes away from the overall appearance) and I want to replace them. I just acquired the pin, and am doing some updates along with cleaning/waxing. If I was going to take everything apart a section at a time anyway, I hoping to be prepared ahead of time to put it back together with new hardware.

#2216 4 years ago
Quoted from steve1515:

Does this help? http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/1000/Williams_1992_The_Getaway_High_Speed_II_Parts_List.txt
I'm not sure if it's 100% accurate, but it looks pretty detailed.

Okay, that's a lot of screws. Guess I need to try to figure out what is what, and how to decipher the coding.

Thanks for the reference.

#2217 4 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Yes just the knob. You use the shaft you already have. It was a bitch to get the original knob off:


I just ordered one of these. Referring to the knob, how did you end up removing it? Did you just cut it off, did you try heat, some other way? Anything else from your experience that would be nice to know before attempting upgrade on my own?

#2218 4 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

I've got one more shipment of pop bumper parts arriving (new bases, and metal rings and new springs) and then I'm going to tackle the pops.
These goodies arrived:
The perfectionist in me is annoyed that I didnt opt for the dark green skirt instead of the lighter green. Any chance anyone of you has one I can buy?
John, you gonna place an order anytime?


I was wondering of the light green is actually "teal" when ordering? I am ordering a bunch of stuff from PBL, and this is the only one I see. Shows light green in photo of choices, but only "teal" in drop down selection (I would be happy with light green, but don't want to end up with a bluish-green).

#2220 4 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Brother it was a major pain in the ass. I took a hack saw to it as well as a Dremel. I cut it in half all the way around with the hacksaw and then cut it vertical with a Dremel. I'm sure there is a smarter, easier way but I'm no rocket surgeon.

The light green is def green. Not teal. I had a hard time finding a dark green skirt. By the time I did, I already had installed the entire green pop assembly and I'm satisfied with it. I have the dark green skirt in a box filled with clear, red and white bodies and a ton of cap colors.


Well, my shifter just arrived but it does not work. Did not come with instructions on how to change battery. I removed the cap, but just contains the switch as far as I can tell. Searched the web, but cannot find instructions. Any guidance on how to replace batteries is greatly appreciated.

Even with all the work, based on your pics the end result looks well worth it. I was wondering what those shards of black mess were in your photos - Dremel & hacksaw at work?

#2224 4 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Also, this will def help:


2 of the screws are for securing the button at top, the other 4 are faux. When removed, I have nothing inside that points to where a battery should go (I've put batteries in thousands of devices over my long life, but this thing has nothing even resembling battery leads inside of it). The packaging looked like it had been opened before even though sold as new (also no batteries were included even though package said they were), so I'm thinking something is missing and I am going to exchange - 2 more days of waiting . . . bummer!

#2225 4 years ago

Just finished a DYI of the apron graphics. When I got my pin, the apron graphics were shot (all faded to a light pink, could barely make out the "W" logo, etc.) While I found some vinyl stickers online for $30+ s&h, this was a little more than I wanted to pay. My solution was to carefully measure everything then redesign by hand in Photoshop (probably better suited job for Illustrator, but my PS proficiency is far superior). Once designed, I printed onto high gloss ultra photo paper on my Epson 6 color inkjet then cut out everything with a paper cutter (straight lines) and by hand with scissors (curved lines). After cutting, I ran a fine pointed black Sharpie around all edges to cover the exposed white edges of the paper. Finally, I put some double-faced tape on the back around all edges and in center of each graphic, cleaned the apron well, and then stuck everything in place on the apron. I think it came out well (even tough I did not do color match exactly, I'm happy with how it looks), and I saved myself $30+ even though I had to put a couple of hours of labor into it.

See pics below for before & after. Graphics included: center Williams logo (4x6 paper), right apron triangle (5x7 paper), left apron triangle (5x7 paper), right apron horizontal lines (8.5x11 paper), and left apron horizontal lines (8.5x11 paper). I also printed both cards on the same printer using high quality photo paper.

PM me if you like, and I'll be happy to provide you with the Photoshop files I made for you to create your own graphics (if you don't have PS, I can convert to high quality PNG, JPG, PDF or whatever other format you may need).


#2229 4 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Nice tantrum! Apron looks sharp! I really like your cards, too.

Thanks. I got cards from here: http://www.pinballrebel.com/game/pins/instruction (slight change of size required), but everything else was my work.

#2236 4 years ago
Quoted from steve1515:

Does this help? http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/1000/Williams_1992_The_Getaway_High_Speed_II_Parts_List.txt
I'm not sure if it's 100% accurate, but it looks pretty detailed.

Okay, I used this as a reference & did a visual/manual inventory of what I wanted to change on top. I think I got everything I needed ordered and some stuff came from local hardware store, but my conclusion is that whoever owned Williams at the time must have had a brother-in-law who owned a fastener business (i.e. did they really need to use that many different types/sizes of screws?)

Thank you for the reference, as it was very helpful.

#2237 4 years ago
Quoted from Slim64:

Nothing against those that have done the shifter knob mod, but it looks pretty "ricey" to me.

Hmm, while the comment may be a passive trolling attempt, I am going more after spaghetti than rice given the theme of the machine . . . vroom, vroom!

#2238 4 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

I love to mod my pin but I usually only do things that can be easily reversed... I just worry if I ever have to sell it (I'm actually thinking of this now, please tell me if I'm crazy) the buyer may want it stock.

Probably 2 kinds of opinions here: 1) the purist and 2) the modder. Personally, I plan on enjoying my machine for years, and I want to put my own creative touches on it to make it unique as long as game play is not adversely impacted. If you are looking at the machine as an investment and plan to own it for a relatively short time then I would say keep it original along with any restorations being accurate to how the machine came. If you are like me, and plan to put it in your game room for years to come (maybe forever), then customize it, enjoy the projects while learning more about the machine, and have fun playing regardless of what anyone else may think about it. Just my 2 cents.

#2249 4 years ago

For those of you have done a speaker upgrade, is it really worth it - i.e. is the sound noticeably improved? Can you describe the difference you hear, or better yet make a recording available? I am considering a low cost 1 for 1 replacement of back glass speakers and cab speaker per earlier in this thread.


btw, how do you get La Grange out of your head for at least 24 hours after playing this pin?

#2250 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Hmm, while the comment may be a passive trolling attempt, I am going more after spaghetti than rice given the theme of the machine . . . vroom, vroom!

Not sure what a real Lambo shifter would cost me, but I can't imagine it is cheap.

#2252 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Not sure what a real Lambo shifter would cost me, but I can't imagine it is cheap.

Nevermind, answered my own question.


#2257 4 years ago

I think something is wrong here. I had a good game, but I really don't know what I am doing yet. This score from an actual game I played with 5 balls and no cheating (I call it cheating since we still are working on the machine and often play with glass off where we have a tendency to catch the ball and extend play). The only think I know is that I had one sequence where I hit the super charger ramp like 10 times in a row, but it doesn't make sense that it produced a score in the billions, or does it? I don't know what a good score is on this game as I have only had it for a week and really don't have a point of reference. Most of my games are around 50 million or less, so I assume this is some sort of bug. I am running L1 firmware with L2 on ordered and on the way.


#2266 4 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

Thank you - if you're referring to the dot us link I provided, that was by someone else. It is a bevy of great info, so I definitely wanted to share it with everyone. I appreciate it. One thing though - DO NOT go with the translite speakers in those photos. They put out WAY more bass then you'll want. I have since installed other speakers:
3.5" : http://www.parts-express.com/pyle-wave-plx32-3-1-2-coaxial-speaker-pair--267-770
5.25" : http://www.parts-express.com/pyle-pl53bl-blue-label-5-1-4-triaxial-speaker-pair--267-080
Those work GREAT. They each have tweeters, so your trebles (voice call outs) won't be drowned out by bass. This was mainly the case on BSD. Since these speakers come in pairs, I just swapped them out on HS2 as well. The price difference was staggering - nearly $90 less than the Daytons and these sound WAY better.
The cabinet speaker I installed earlier is still a great buy; I did NOT change that out.
Hope that clears up any confusion.

Did you just do a one-for-one replacement of the 3 speakers, or did you also add in a crossover & L-Pad? Also, I noticed your large speaker has a low frequency response of 125 Hz (which is pretty high). Why did you choose this over a lower base woofer that has a sub 35 Hz frequency response on the low side?

#2268 4 years ago

Has anyone replaced the incandescent bulb in the flash/mars/beacon lamp (that red police light on the top of the back box) with an led one? If so, which bulb did you use and how do you like it?

#2270 4 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

EDIT: there is no LED I can find for the Mars lamp.
All of them and I love the look!
906 in backbox
assorted colors 8 smd 90% of table
13 smd 10% of table

Do you have original translight? If so, can you post pick with it on?

#2277 4 years ago

Doh! Sorry, wasn't paying attention that those were your pics.

#2278 4 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

I have put a red 13 smd tower led in mine.

Pics and/or video to show it off?

#2280 4 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Your apron is a huge improvement.
Two lithium batteries sit stacked on each other to power the shift knob mod. I'll see about taking the knob apart tomorrow for you.

Got my replacement shift know and key starter installed today. Adds a touch of color and fun, and my son loves it. BTW, getting the old knob off was not nearly as easy as you made it sound (and you didn't sugarcoat it!)

FYI, upon arrival the batteries in my know were dead. Luckily, I have thicker CR2032's all over the place for my cycling stuff and these work great one battery at a time. They are 3V each, so may not last as long as double stacked of the thinner ones, but we'll see how it goes.

#2296 4 years ago

Has anyone personally performed paint repairs on their play area? There is some regular wear and tear on my newly acquired machine, but there are also some very bad/noticeable paint chips around the flipper area. I've searched around and also been given some good advice on how to treat the area to prevent further damage, but I possibly wanted to actually "repair" the area (i.e. paint it as close to original as possible). Not really sure where to start, what kind of paint to use, best colors to use, etc. Any first had experience/advice with photos of results is greatly appreciated.


#2297 4 years ago

Does anyone have a fully intact one of these they are willing to part with?

P.S. Thanks for the pic, Grinder (I hope you don't mind).


#2300 4 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

I have in the outhole area but I would refer you to this thread.
I used good a brush with good acrylic paints, clear coat, wax and them mylar.... I know it's not perfect but it's pretty darn good (IMHO) and will not wear out this time!

Wow, that thread has some detailed restoration techniques. I was hoping to maybe plop down some black paint and call it a day (i.e. just looking for a temporary "fix" to color the bare wood). If I were to follow your model and use a high quality acrylic paint applied with a brush, what clear coat did you use and how did you apply it (brush, spray, other)?

#2302 4 years ago

My left sling stopped functioning yesterday. When testing the coil, it fires correctly. However, when testing switch it will not close. I looked underneath and no loose wires. When testing by hand both switches definately close and make contact, but do not register as closed. As far as I can tell, this is the only thing not working (well I do have a opto issue on the supercharger, and am assuming there is no relation). Any ideas?

Well, I figured it out. Somehow one of the harness connectors located in the backbox behind the speakers had become partially disconnected from its interface. Not sure if this occurred naturally during transport and finally shook loose or if I somehow did it while working on the machine. Sorry for the false alarm, but hopefully may help someone else in the future.

#2304 4 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

Go into menu, T:Tests, T4: solenoid test, cycle through to left sling and enter, have it on repeat. What happens?

Solenoid worked fine. Thanks for the support, but please see my edited post above.

#2306 4 years ago

Now my next problem I just noticed. 2 of the 3 pop bumper lights do not illuminate. Bulbs are verified good (switched with known working ones). Illumination test lights lower bumper but not upper 2.

Well, I discovered the cause of this. J120-1 and J120-2 GI power from main board connectors were burnt to a crisp. I disconnected the connector and put a meter on pins 1 & 7 then 2 & 8 and voltage was good (main board not damaged). Since I don't have one of these 11 pin connectors laying around, I broke off the burnt part of the connector, plugged the good part back in (included pins 7 andthen fashioned plugs from speaker connectors. I then crimped freshly stripped pin 1 & 2 wires to the connectors, connected to J120, and voila! Not only did the broken pop bumpers illuminate, but so did several other bulbs. This should hold until I get the correct connector ordered.

#2307 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Now my next problem I just noticed. 2 of the 3 pop bumper lights do not illuminate. Bulbs are verified good (switched with known working ones). Illumination test lights lower bumper but not upper 2.

I just got a large order of parts in including all new optos. Looks like I have a soldering party in my near future.

#2310 4 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

I missed this... yes the dreaded j120, that's the one that usually fails. If the molex was burnt to a crisp there may be an issue with those pins or the printed conductive material on the back of the board. This what happened to mine, I replace the pin and reflowed the board but it didn't last so I bought a new driver board, rebuilt the connector, went to all LED and I've been trouble free.
The molex and female pins are available at Marco, Pinball life... You can repair them but if the driver board is damaged they will continue to fail. Converting to LED bulbs will help and new molex is better than that stuff they used 25 years ago and will last longer.
This site is very helpful... good luck!

Thanks for all the great info. I am in the process of putting together my LED kit, so hopefully I too will not have to worry about such things very soon. I guess I will see how the board holds up before making the decision to replace it.

#2336 4 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

I saw the automotive options but never tried it, if it works it's, and I don't know why it wouldn't, it's an option to consider. Thank you

I tried what appeared to be a high quality extra bright white auto LED - it was about 1/2 the brightness of the normal bulb so I sent it back

#2337 4 years ago
Quoted from alimerick:

I put following led light in Mars beacon from Superbrightleds.com about a year ago. It is plenty bright enough. 1156 LED Bulb w/ Stock Cover - 1 High Power LED - BA15S Retrofit - 1156 Red $10.95
Looking at Superbrightleds sight the one above has been discontinued. It's replacement link follows. Looks even brighter. Cost $14.95

Just to clarify, which color bulb did you go with? Did you observe the brightness to be as good or better than the original bulb?

#2339 4 years ago

Just upgraded my speakers with these along with a sub-woofer:

Right Side 3.5": https://www.parts-express.com/pyle-wave-plx32-3-1-2-coaxial-speaker-pair--267-770
Left Side 5.25": https://www.parts-express.com/pyle-pl53bl-blue-label-5-1-4-triaxial-speaker-pair--267-080

Since I had to buy backbox speakers in pairs, I now have one extra of each. Since I only have one pin, I wanted to offer them to the to anyone who wants to buy them. I will sell them for 1/2 price since you would be getting 1/2 the speakers (1 of each size). This would be $15 + whatever the cost of shipping is to you. May not make sense once shipping is added, but thought I would offer.

Please PM me if interested.

#2340 4 years ago
Quoted from kimzone:

i had my getaway for 2 years now couple weeks ago my getaway was in shop getting fix went i got it back. every time you get 2nd ball lock on my machine you get 3 police pretty much can get secret mania every time. also i have got 2 police office on playfield small police car mod


How did you light up the chute?

#2344 4 years ago

Can't seem to open your link, but here is the one I went with: https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dc160s-8-6-1-2-classic-shielded-woofer--295-306

- you want a low frequency response for the bass (this one has 33 Hz on the low side)
- needs to be 8 ohms Impedance from what I remember
- 6 1/2 inches is a simple swap out with the original

#2359 4 years ago

Well, just finished working all day to get my new pin in shape. All new shiny hardware (old stuff was oxidized), polished all plastics, cleaned all metal, new flippers and full rebuild on all 3, fixed supercharger by replacing an opto, playfield clean and wax, all new rubbers, several other minor things, and 3 new shiny balls. Now I just need to finish putting together my LED list, and I think I am done messing around for now, and can start enjoying playing it.

However, I did make one big mistake today when I went to polish what I thought was an aluminum supercharger. I can't tell you what kind of damage aluminum polish does to silver paint on plastic. Ended up having to scrub, sand, prime and paint both pieces. By look and feel, I could have swore it was aluminum, but clearly it is not.

#2363 4 years ago

Well, now it is just brushed nickel color with a clear coat (basically, stuff I already had around the house to make plastic overflow drain covers match the rest of our bath hardware). It looks okay, but not chrome shiny for sure. However, it looks better that the condition it was originally in (dull and dirty . . . the reason I was attempting to polish it). Thanks for the links, but not sure that shiny new one worth it to me right now given all the other recent expenses getting the pin in tip-top shape. Guess this hobby is like just about everything else I get into - I end up spending significant amounts more that I ever planned to. Even so, I enjoy the results and especially learning all about how it works.

#2366 4 years ago

Has anyone done paint touch up to their getaway? If so, I was wondering which colors you had buy to make the orange and light blue (I am considering Createx paint per Vid's guide in the forums).

#2367 4 years ago

I noticed this weekend that the ramp in the back of the machine (the one that moves up and down to the ball capture lane on the right) looks like it was supposed to have one of those thin blue metal pieces at the base of the ramp. Can someone please confirm, and if so let me know the dimensions of the metal plate?

Hard to see in pic, but 2 rivits at base of ramp, and looks like one has a piece of shrapnel with it.


#2372 4 years ago

Pinball life has this one, but I don't know if it is a fit or Not: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4197

Also, I've never rivited before, so I guess I need to figure that out.

#2377 4 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

Well after all this time I finally decided to get around to doing the "Mustang Paul" tach light mod, props to Stang because I saw his thread 1st... I made one minor adjustment and used the extra 4 led star post lights I had lying around for the up lighting, seemed logical to me because they are the same shape so why not give it a try.


Love it! I've been considering this exact mod, and now I know it looks great.

#2378 4 years ago

Does anyone have a complete and accurate inventory of all lamps in Getaway HS Ii? The manual list flashers and inserts, but not GI as far as I can tell. I've looked at kits from various suppliers, but they vary from each other and the manual. I am looking to perform a full LED upgrade including GI, inserts, backbox, and all flashers.

#2385 4 years ago
Quoted from yonkiman:

And I meant to mention that I wouldn't expect to see the endless multiball/free ride bug "often" with the L-2 ROM. We play my HS2 a ton every week at League and I think we've only seen it once or twice in the last year.

I installed L2 last week since the pin had L1 when I acquired it, and my son just experienced the infinite multi-ball bug (we'll if 10 minutes or so counts as infinite) over the weekend. He was so proud of the score he had going after about 10 minutes of multi-ball, so he wasn't too happy when I just powered the machine off in the middle of his game. I figured there was no way I was letting the kid beat dad's high score, especially illegitimately!

We've probably hit the tunnel 100+ times since I installed L2, and this was the only time we've seen the issue.

#2391 4 years ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

Is that what your wife said?

I was waiting for someone to reply this, as I didn't have the pinballs to do it myself.

#2392 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Does anyone have a complete and accurate inventory of all lamps in Getaway HS Ii? The manual list flashers and inserts, but not GI as far as I can tell. I've looked at kits from various suppliers, but they vary from each other and the manual. I am looking to perform a full LED upgrade including GI, inserts, backbox, and all flashers.

Any responders? Did everyone here just buy kits? Were your kits complete or did you have to true-up some lamps? Who did you buy from outside of the normal suspects (e.g. comet, cointaker, etc.)?

#2396 4 years ago

Thanks everyone. Just to clarify, I am not really looking for color choices, but types and quantities of each socket. I spent a few hours tonight and I think I've calculated correctly. I plan on double checking and deciding on bulb types and colors. Once I finish the project, I will post a listing for everything to help out others in the future.

#2403 4 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

This is to the best of my abilities, hopefully I got them all but...
Back Box
31 #555
5 #906 Flasher
PF Plastics
9#89 Flashers
34 #47
Lower PF inserts (Gears and below)
6 #47
1 #906 Flasher Fee Ride
Upper PF inserts (Above Gears)
2 #47
19 #555
3 #555 Pop bumpers
3 #555 Traffic light
2 # 555 Super Charger entrance
3 #906 Flashers Super Charger
This total is everything but the Mars light, start button and coin door...
94 #555
42 #47
9 #906 flasher
9 #89 flasher

Looks like we are slightly off. Here is what I have after multiple visual inspections and going through test menus (I could have easily missed some):

Inserts: 69 (excludes start button but includes every insert light as stepped through in test mode)
Playfield GI: 30
Backbox GI: 30
Playfield Flashers: 12
Backbox Flashers: 5

My Total: 146 (excluding 3 jets since I have LED disks in them)
Your Total: 151 (excluding 3 jets)

Looks like you have:
- 1 additional #906 flasher
- 4 additional #44
- While our #555 count matches, you show 31 in backbox, but I think there are only 30 in backbox + 5 flashers

Probably my best bet is to buy a few extras just to cover possible short counting.

#2404 4 years ago

Seems like most go with frosted for playfield GI and clear/no dome for inserts? Comments on what pin owners have liked best?

#2409 4 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

3 #906 flashers in super charger and 1 under free ride = 4

I count 17 flashers too, but my free ride flasher is a #89 bayonet not a #906 wedge which flips my flasher numbers from yours. Thanks for all of your help. I agree, and am definitely going to buy extras but just want to make sure I am covered with appropriate types and colors.

I think I've spent more time on researching and planning LED's for my pin than last time I bought a house!

#2410 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

accidental duplicate - can't figure out how to delete.

#2411 4 years ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

They were all almost black!! A few of them you couldn't even see the lights through. They cleaned up really move though

Silly question, but how did you find it best/easiest to clean the bottom side of the inserts? Not something I considered, but I'm sure mine need it given the condition my underside is in . . . I really want my new LEDs to shine as best as they can.

#2413 4 years ago

What types of lamps are you using in backbox - no dome SMD, clear dome, frost dome?

#2416 4 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

I used a Bendy 8 SMD #906 for the free ride... interesting that they are different.

Great pic, and my idea also to use a flex bulb there. I know I checked multiple times, but maybe I had a brain fart on the bulb type. I will check again when I get home tonight.

P.S. I envy how clean your underside is - very nice.

#2422 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Great pic, and my idea also to use a flex bulb there. I know I checked multiple times, but maybe I had a brain fart on the bulb type. I will check again when I get home tonight.
P.S. I envy how clean your underside is - very nice.

Well, was a brain fart after all. I don't know what I was seeing, but the free ride is definitely a #906. Thanks for the correction.

#2427 4 years ago

Okay, I am getting ready to order my LEDs and wanted to also order some custom lighting for various areas (kick-out saucer, sling tachs, back area, spot for mountain plastic, behind flippers, etc.) My only question is how do I wire these into the lighting system? Do I just find another light on the GI circuit and splice into its wires? Should I solder them or connect them in some other fashion?

#2429 4 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

I would not splice wires but...
Options from Comet:
1. the new Matrix system with alligator clips so you don't have to solder them. Go there to see the parts and wires available
2. Solder them directly onto an existing lamp (that's what I did, make sure flashers are with flashers and GI are with GI).

Thanks! I am no slouch with a soldering iron, but I like the idea of the clips. Since I am ordering from Comet, I'll take a look to see what options they have.

#2432 4 years ago

Woohoo! Just placed my LED order at Comet. Can't wait to get everything in and liven up this pin! Thanks for all the great support and mod ideas. I purchased all LEDs for entire pin including backbox and coin door (just no LED for red lamp on top of box). Also, I got everything to add lighting to back of playfield, ball catch between flippers, spot for mountain/tunnel plastic in back right, below supercharger ramp sign, left and right sling tachs, drive 65 plastic, and red kick-out disk (I did buy a few accessories at Pinball Life to complete things - light sockets, flood assemblies, etc.)

All of this plus several extra bulbs for less than the cost of a kit from all of the providers I looked it. It was definitely work figuring out everything and customizing the lighting to my taste, but a big thanks goes to the members of this forum and to a pinhead friend who has helped me out tremendously.

Before/after pics surely to come was the transformation takes place. Also, once I get all of the lights in and verify everything, I plan on posting my lamp spreadsheet for those who may want to mod their Getaway in the future. For me, the hardest part was validating socket types and quantities of everything, and this would have been a big help.

#2434 4 years ago

Anyone have mirror blades in their Getaway? I've seen them in other pins, and they look fabulous to me, and really add a wow factor when playing in dark room. Wondering what experience would be like with our pin. Pics would be appreciated.

#2444 4 years ago
Quoted from jsyjay:

I will be joining the club in the next couple of weeks
I was thinking of powder coating the legs red and the sidrails & lockdown bar black.
Anyone have this combination or all red or all black and what are your guys thoughts?

If you look through the forum there is an all red one early on (legs, side rails, apron, etc.) It looks very nice. Under the thread, do a search in the pinsider field for "the_fonz" and you will see his red accented Getaway.

Also, here is a highly customized one in all black (scroll to bottom of page): http://www.pinball-magazine.com/?attachment_id=2846

#2445 4 years ago

Every time a GEICO motorcycle commercial comes on TV, for some reason I want to go play a little Getaway pinball - A haw, haw, haw, haw!

#2447 4 years ago

Anyone used this before? Is it the right size?

amazon.com link »

And what about this: amazon.com link »

How would I power it to light it?

#2448 4 years ago
Quoted from Mancave:

Well this jazzed up the supercharger cover somewhat. I just got it recently Hydrocoated and received it in the mail today. So out with the chrome and in with the FLAMES

Where did you get your Lambo & Cruiser? What scale are they (or size)?

#2449 4 years ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

Here's a really nice mod I've come up with on my Getaway.
I really didn't like how the stoplight housing lit up when each of the lamps are lit.
I designed/machined some light barriers for the outside walls of the stoplight housing.
No more glowing stoplight housing !!!
I made these using 2mm black ABS sheet, (one side has a texture). These slide right in, and stay in place when assembled. No need for adhesives.
As you can see in the pic, I also installed the colored flex LEDs from comet. I wanted to put the light source a little closer to the stoplight inserts.
The last few pics were taken w/o flash to show there's no light seepage.

How much for a set?

#2451 4 years ago

Okay, so I finally got tired enough of looking at that big silver metal plate where the Donut Heaven mod goes. However, I really didn't want to spend the bucks right now on a top-of-the-line 3D printed version. Therefore, I put my Photoshop skills to work, and came up with a self-printed version that was to my taste.

So, here is what I did. I created an image in Photoshop based upon my best rendition of the Donut Heaven from the DMD with a few twists. Mine has a neon sign, a red metal roof, and the police cars are crown vic's. I then printed on my Epson 6 color inkjet photo printer using high quality glossy thick photo paper. From here I cut out with a paper cutter, ran a black Sharpie around the outside edges to hide the white color of the paper, pre-bent to conform to the metal piece, then applied double-faced Scotch tape around all for sides on the backside of the paper. Once carefully applied to the metal, I then poked holes where the screws go and mounted the plate back inside the pin.

I have posted both a pic of the finished product installed, along with a full-scale JPEG file of the original artwork so anyone can download and create their own if they would like.




#2457 4 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

Not bad but here is the one that came with some plastic set, or so I was told... I have not been able to make this work, maybe you can.

I guess you don't actually have the digital artwork? I saw this one, but wasn't really interested in putting the time in to recreate it.

#2458 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Hey that's pretty cool, I like it. Just a suggestion here, put some cops sitting at tables along with a couple other customers and maybe a waitress with a tray and maybe slant the sign so when the paper lays flat it looks like the sign is standing straight up. How many layers is your picture?

Good ideas, definitely my first crack at it but ran out of time (also just noticed my roof shape is off at the top - guess I used wrong guide line on the right). I played with silhouettes, but didn't come up with anything I liked in the short time I had. I will have to play with the perspective on the sign to see if I can make it look more vertical (probably some perspective and shadowing).

Regarding layers, a couple of dozen probably. I created the police cars in a separate file, and derived it from an actual photo of a crown vic. I had to make it look more like plastic/cartoon and then custom add on things like lights and such to cover the real ones. The sign is also a separate file and creating the neon effect was several layers with effects. Everything else is in a file with just a few layers: background, glass, open sign, door handle, building front, and roof.

#2460 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Hey that's pretty cool, I like it. Just a suggestion here, put some cops sitting at tables along with a couple other customers and maybe a waitress with a tray and maybe slant the sign so when the paper lays flat it looks like the sign is standing straight up. How many layers is your picture?

Spent a little more time on it tonight, here is the updated version.


#2464 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Yeah that looks better but can ya light the people up a little and move the dog outside so he's lit up? Does the sign look like it's standing up now if you put it on?

Probably more work than I am willing to put into it right now, but I am happy to share the Photoshop files with you if you would like to customize to your liking.

#2467 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

I see. I wish I could get your files but I don't have PS on my Windozzz. I had PS 7 on my Mac a few years ago and got pretty good with it but I don't have my Mac anymore.

You need to try a free program called PAINT.NET. It is a great free alternative to Photoshop with layer editing, etc.


Click Ads can be confusing on this page, just click the "paint.net 4.0.9" text link at the very top right of the page to get to the download links.

#2468 4 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

Thanks! Looks good but I still want to try and remake the other one. I like the "cartoonish" theme... I'm thinking I'll try to capture a pic from my colorDMD to work with.

Here is what I used as my model from color DMD (not mine - I wish!)


#2471 4 years ago

Okay, I just finished complete LED upgrade (have not added all my extras yet, just the standard illumination), and I must say "wow!" I cannot believe how awesome the updated lighting makes the pin look. I am going to put together before/after shots, as well as a bulb guide for those of you wishing to upgrade to LED, but are too intimidated to put together your own kit (much more affordable this way).

However, I have one HUGE problem now. I did all of my flashers first, and every one of them tested perfectly. Then I did GI, back box, and finally inserts. When I was done I proceeded to test everything and all illumination works except now none of the flashers will work. I tested all the fuses, did a visual of the circuit boards and connections, but I cannot figure out what I did to kill the flashers. Any ideas here would be greatly appreciated. Very frustrating to get all of this work done with the pin looking great, but the flashers all stopped working even though they worked when I tested them after initial LED upgrade.

#2474 4 years ago
Quoted from Mancave:

Did you hold in the high power cutoff switch when you were testing? The white ones just inside the coin door on the left?

I've never had to do that before when testing them, and when I do try there is no change.

None of the flashers work at all in test mode or in game play.

#2480 4 years ago

Well, my flasher issue ended up being a simple one. With the help of a forum member, he instruction me to look at LED 5 on the main board. It was not lit which signifies a circuit break. I replaced F111 (even though I thought I had tested it as good) and LED 5 immediately LIT and so did flashers.

#2485 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Yes and with the fuses out of the game.

Well, I was actually testing fuses in-socket. But I assure you, I have learned my lesson given all the grief my error caused me. Thank you all for your advice and getting me back up and running. I cannot believe the difference LEDs make. It is like an entirely different pin now.

As I stated earlier, my plan is to do a write up and inventory of bulb types, sockets, etc. that I used to help out future LED conversions for others on this pin, along with before/after pics. Since I fully customized my LEDs (did not buy a kit), I put several hours into figuring everything out. To my surprise, I was only off one bulb where somehow I had logged it as a #555 when it was actually a #44. Fortunately, I had purchased a couple of extras of each type, so now I am 100% LED. My next steps are to install the mod lighting features that I purchased (tachs, back of pin, mountain spot, et. al.)

#2488 4 years ago

FYI, I kept getting check switch 67 errors whenever I went into test mode and finally realized that the metal piece was completely missing on the micro switch, so the machine never knew when a ball passed down the left wire ramp. Ordered a replacement and promptly received from PBL, then attempted to install last night. Given the position and that a resister was on the switch it was like performing surgery to get the old one off and the new one soldered into place.

I was all proud of myself when I had everything back together and turned on the machine to test, when now I had multiple switch errors and the new switch would not show closes not matter what I did. Well, after thinking to myself and closer inspection, I had accidentally soldered the resistor on backwards from what it was originally (a very fine dark gray line on one side of the barrel). I performed the entire process again of removing and re-soldering this tiny piece (I really needed at least 3 hands, but somehow managed to do it with 2). When it came time to turn the machine back on I was in fear that I had messed something up royally, but to my surprise the new switch worked and all errors were gone. Even so, I know that resistors are not directional, so I am a little confused why my repair did not work the first time.

Moral of the story is to take detailed pictures before you take something apart and put it back exactly the same. I was kind of lazy and figured I had this, but obviously I caused myself much more time and effort to get it right. I consider myself fortunate that I didn't damage something and cost myself more time and money to repair my mistake.

#2489 4 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

Meh... too much glare but I'll play around with them

Found a good PS tutorial if you want to create something that looks like DMD display:


#2492 4 years ago
Quoted from Slim64:

That was a diode, not a resistor

Thanks, and consider me educated. After Googling, I now understand how diodes differ from resisters, and that they are directional. Nobody told me I was going to have to use my brain so much when I bought a pinball machine.

#2494 4 years ago

Just finished my LED conversion with pics below. Please note the following:

1) Pics do not do the upgrade justice (harder to photograph than I expected). In real-life, original was dull and dingy looking while new LEDs are vibrant and clean.
2) I realized after the fact that the passenger side headlight bulb was not working in the backbox. I've since repaired, but too lazy to retake photos.


#2495 4 years ago

I still have many lighting mods to add to the playfield, but here are a few of my upgrades. The gear shift was taken from an idea earlier in this topic, the key mod is Mezel's, and the Donut Heaven is my own work (this pic is through the glass, so not very sharp).




#2496 4 years ago

Attached is my LED bulb chart that I compiled to perform my conversion. A few things to note:
1) I used Comet as my supplier with a few things from Pinball Life, but you can use any supplier you like
2) You don't have to follow my color scheme at all. My main concern was providing a detail of the sockets and bulb types required to perform a full LED upgrade
3) I utilized clear and frosted bulb single SMD bulbs along with a few 4 SMD no lens bulbs.
4) Natural = natural/cool white & Warm = warm/incandescent white
5) I did not use either the start button or jet bulbs since I moded these
6) All the mods at bottom are completely optional, and you must purchase appropriate wiring and other accessories to mod yourself. Also, I am adding a light to the transparent red Kick-Out which requires the purchase/installation of a socket since it is not lit by default.
I hope this proves useful to others that come after me, and please don't hesitate to ask questions if you have any.
Finally, let me repeat - YOU DO NOT HAVE TO FOLLOW MY COLOR SCHEME. I don't want others who have gone before me argue one way or another why their colors are better and mine suck as this is not the intent of my post. Obviously, if you have a different color scheme you like then by all means present it as an alternative for a future modder to consider. Either way, the sockets and location of the bulbs remain the same for all of our pins, and documenting this was the most tasking part of the exercise for me.

Added over 5 years ago: BTW, you must click on the image to download the full PDF file (it is more than just the one page you see).

Added over 5 years ago: Forgot to mention one more thing. For the orage/amber inserts use warm white bulb for more amber color and use cool/natural bulbs to make them look more yellow. Yellow LEDs don't have the brightness of some of the others. The only yellow I used was an4 SMD no lens bulb in the stoplight.

#2501 4 years ago
Quoted from jdb9294:

Nice job!! I wanted to order some LED's but was getting sick of counting the total QTY I needed of each type, so I made a spreadsheet using your PDF.

One additional note on my list. After installing the 5 SMD flashers throughout, my personal preference would be for a little more "pop" in brightness. Therefore, I am going to replace the 10 Bayonets on the playfield with Comet 13 SMD #89 Super Flashers and the 3 supercharger & 5 backbox flashers with Comet 10 SMD 5630 Super Flashers. Again, this is personal preference as the 5 SMD ended up being just a little dim for my personal taste.

I changed my quantities as such (note there is one extra #89 since I may swap positions):
- #89 Green = 7 (all under green side plastics)
- #89 Red = 2 (one under supercharger ramp, and I am going to experiment with red for slings. If I go this way I will put white under ramp)
- #89 White = 2 (for slings. Again, I will try red and if I like better I will put one white under ramp)
- 5630 White = 5 (backbox)
- 5630 Red = 3 (supercharger)

Also you may prefer the 8 SMD #89 or #906 flat 8 SMD flashers in some of your applications. It all comes down to personal preference.

#2505 4 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

I'd watch out for super bright white flashers in the slings, you may go blind with all that light...

I'm thinking I will like the red, but we'll see. I just want a little more attack on the senses when the flashers go off.

BTW, cudos to Art at Comet Pinball. Great knowledge and exceptional customer service. Also highly patient with newbies like myself.

#2506 4 years ago

Got to spend some time finishing my final lighting mods today. Here is what I did - all ideas from within this topic, and all lights purchased from Comet with a few accessories from Pinball Life. I mainly used Comet's Matrix system, but did also have to do a little soldering for a few of the mods.

1. Ball catch lighting - Frosted white 19 LED strip
2. Left tach - 4 LED post light
3. Right tach - 4 LED post light
4. Drive 65 sign - 4 LED post light
5. Tunnel spot light - 4 SMD flat in spotlight
6. Kick out light - Red Flex (had to install socket)
7. Supercharger Ramp Light - UV 3 LED strip
8. Back of Cabinet Lighting - 2 x 4 SMD flats in spotlights

You will also notice an earlier mod including Red, Yellow, and Green BriteCaps EVO Pop Bumper Lighting from Pinball Life with matching pop bumper caps from MAD Amusements (only place I could find all 3 colors in same style).

It's been fun doing this and sharing with the community. Thanks for the great ideas from everyone, and I hope that my mods inspire others to do the same.

Now, I am just searching for a 1/36 scale red Lamborghini and Police car to fit the theme. Also, working up courage to attempt playfield paint repair where needed.


#2512 4 years ago

I was reading through the posts, and saw some people lamenting there wasn't a shooter cover on our pin (just a black box). Funny, but I had never thought twice about it, but now that it is in my head I can't help but notice the large empty black spot. Therefore, I decided to do something about it. I've attached a copy of the actual print file (high resolution JPEG) if anyone wishes to print their own, along with a couple of pics of what it looks like on the pin.

As with my previously self-printed mods, this was done on a high resolution Epson 6-color inkjet printer with high-gloss, thick inkjet paper. I then cut out the image, ran a black Sharpie around the edges to mask the white edges, and finally applied double-faced Scotch tape around the bottom before applying to the shooter cover. I also switched places with my game cards since it looked a little odd have the two Lambos side-by-side.


#2513 4 years ago

Okay, I am about done with my mods now. Besides, I am a little board since my DMD controller board went out, and I need to order a new one tomorrow. Anyway, the last thing I want to do is add a diecast police car and Lambo. I think I have what I want picked out, and for now want to do it on the cheap (e.g. $10 each or so). I really think Mezel's fully lighted large police car is awesome, but just not in my budget right now. Therefore, my plan was to just put either a 3 LED strip or a post LED (Matrix from Comet) inside the cab of each model and connect to GI to have the inside lit for now.

Any thoughts/ideas on what others have done in this area?

#2515 4 years ago

Thanks, I got the cards from a reference earlier in this thread, but here they are again fully-sized for print (they are not my artwork, but all the other apron stuff is . . . please feel free to take credit if you created them and see this post). Regarding flippers, the left one has been giving me fits, but I was finally able to get it to stop moving during gameplay, so I just left it where it ended up and matched the right to it. I may try to adjust at some point in near future.


#2517 4 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

I'm a less is more kind of person when it comes to modding my pin.

Yeah, this is my first, so I am having some fun with it and also adding some stuff that my son likes (he is begging for the toy cars). The LEDs make all the difference in the world to me, and I can definitely understand the minimalist/purist approach when it comes to customize one's game.

#2519 4 years ago
Quoted from Mancave:

Finally got around to getting the shifter knob attached. It took about an hours work to make a new shaft on the lathe using 5/8th stainless steel rod, the threaded end is 3/8th and also had to make a tool to cut the groove for the circlip. I chose this particular one cause it has a flames pattern on the knob which fits in well with the Hydrodipped flames supercharger cover. There is 6 red LED'S inside that has a 4 position switch, so random pattern, all flashing, always on and off. I'd added some red LED flipper buttons recently so going with that particular coloured LED seemed the best way to go (also got the red LED start key mod from Mezelmods). On the whole the colours all fit well with the rest of the machine. If anyone is interested in a new shifter shaft so they can add their own style knob then just PM me. I will only need to know what size threaded end you wish to have, and i will mention that most of these after market car knobs come with several different sized plastic inserts (to screw onto a gear shift shaft) so i would recommend using the larger size insert first cause you can always cut the thread down further if it ever wears out (unlikely really). Price? , i'm not exactly sure about, even at half tradies rates (usually about $90 or more an hour in OZ) it will probably seem too expensive. If these were pumped out on a CNC machine in bulk amounts it would cost bugger all but i'm only thinking of doing a few if required. I'll say about $50 Aus dollars plus postage ( about $37 US) but i could have my arm twisted a bit

Did you or have you considered boring a hold the length of the shaft so you can wire the batteries? I have this mod, and like it but it seems like someone in the family forgets to turn off the light every couple of days, so I am going through batteries like crazy. I did find, however, that instead of stacking two thin lithium batteries to power it you can just use one thicker battery. I forget the exact model I am using, but can look when I get home if anyone is interested.

#2520 4 years ago

Does anyone have the artwork for the shifter decal they would be willing to share (Illustrator or however else you may have it)? I was able to find the artwork for everything else as I am considering printing my own cabinet decals. I'm sure I could recreate it fairly easily, but wanted to check first before I put the effort into it.


#2526 4 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Here's how mine came:

I guess you are expected to cutout the shifter decal before applying the other? How did all of this align for you (or have you done it yet)? The shifter assembly should be mounted on top of the front decal, and then the shifter decal on top of the metal plate of the shifter before running the bolts through.

I'm just going to create my own, as it should be pretty simple given how square everything is.

#2529 4 years ago

Can anyone who has added cars to their playfield explain/demonstrate to me how you affixed them so that they did not come loose during gameplay? I am adding a 1/32 Police car to the top left and Lambo to the plastic cover before Donut Heaven.

#2534 4 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

My playfield is out of the machine at the moment during my restoration but here are a few shots. I used a high tack velcro for mine. One side of the velcro on the plastic and the other on the bottom of the car. It has never mover and makes it easy to remove and reinstall if needed.

Thanks! Looks like a better option than the Kragle. I would not have thought so, but I guess the underside clearance is low enough for the Velcro to work if multiple people are reporting this is a good method. I was concerned I was going to have to engineer some contraption . . . I definitely prefer simple solutions to challenges!

#2535 4 years ago

For those of you who added the ball well lighting (or whatever it is called where the balls drain between the flippers underneath the apron), do you get a bad reflection on the DMD? I love the lighting on the playfield, but given the angles and my height (6'3") the reflection of the light strip is right on the middle of the DMD (btw, I also have a bent plastic installed).


#2537 4 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Oh yea it's a bad reflection. Newer dmds seem to be angled so it's not a problem. If I kind of hunch over while I play, the LED strip reflection isnt seen. I like the additional lighting but it's annoying to see it it in the reflection

You just gave me an idea. I might experiment with adding some washer/spacers on the DMD mounting posts to see if a slight angle change might help (not sure of angled up or down would be best). May be a catch 22, however, as I may be bothered by the DMD angle required to fix the reflection issue.

#2540 4 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

i've seen visors that mount at the top of the main cabinet, where the playfield glass top trim is, in order to block glare from the backbox on the glass. that'll straighten you out.

Actually, I have one of these (bent plastic) and the intent is opposite. It prevents the DMD from reflecting onto the back of the playfield glass (and does a perfect job of it). The angles are such, however that it does not block the lighting from the ball trap at the opposit end of the table from reflecting onto the DMD.

#2542 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Also try a Comet Frosted led strip, that will help some.

That is what I have. Also, now that I am home, the glare is on the plexiglass too, so angling the DMD has no impact.

#2544 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

I thought it might soften the glare. Have you tried a purple frosted, it's a bit softer light?

No, don't have one. Only an issue for me in the family, but if I play a little bent over the angles are such that the reflection is not too bothersome. Thinking of getting a stool anyway, which would also change the angle by sitting when I play.

#2547 4 years ago
Quoted from Da_Topper:

Both of your flippers need adjustment. They needed to be lowered a bit.

Upon your comment, I went searching for the "correct" way to align flippers. While ther seems to be some debate, I followed the suggestion of aligning the button of the flipper without the rubber to a large paper lip I put in the alignment hole. I must say that I like it much better. My first game with the new setup I got my first redline mania and set my high score.

#2548 4 years ago

Now that I have my flippers resting position adjusted, and the left and right are in perfect alignment, I've discovered that the left flipper does not extend as far in the up position as the right flipper does by a few degrees. I find that this makes is difficult to catch the ball with the left flipper, while the right flipper seems just about right.

Is this normal for this pin? If not, why could I be experiencing this and how do I adjust the left flipper bat to go as high as the left one?

#2550 4 years ago

Here they are up and down. May be a hair off in down position, but significant in up. Also, I used complete rebuild kit from Pinball Life. I measured old parts and everything is the same. Please note, however, that I never tested originally since I rebuilt whenever I bought pin.



#2552 4 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

It looks like the left flipper is too low, I'll see if I can get a pic of mine flipped up but here is how mine are set

Even with the mm or so adjustment, they are still way off from each other when extended.

#2557 4 years ago

I can post coil pics later, but here is something else I discovered. I got out a straight edge to check alignment of flippers to lane guides. I was surprised in that even though both flippers were matched exactly to their guide hole spacing, they were clearly in different alignment to the lane guides (primarily the left). When I aligned to the lane guides using a straight edge, now the range is similar enough but visually the flippers have different spacing from their relative guide hole. Based on this experience, I am concluding that maybe the alignment holes are not an exact science.

#2562 4 years ago

Okay, so here are pics of my flippers.

1) down position (these are aligned straight to lane guides)
2) up position
3) under both
4) under left
5) under right






#2564 4 years ago

Well, I recently purchased some themed target covers for the Getaway, and really liked the idea and looks. However, I had issues with a couple of them separating over a short period of time. They were kind of expensive for what they are, so I decided to create my own. It took a little time to make them, but in the end I like the results (although I cannot cut exact circles like the die cut ones, but for me they were close enough). Therefore, I decided to share them with anyone else who wishes to create their own themed targets. I've included photos of the targets on my pin and a pic of the adhesive tape I used (I'm at the end of the roll). The target include the following:

3 x Red Light
3 x Yellow Light
3 x Green Light
2 x Speedometer
2 x Nitrous Gauge
2 x Tachometer

File is here: http://www.thezumwaltfamily.com/ftp/pinball/TargetSheet.zip

Process is as follows:

1 ) Print target sheet on 4x6 high gloss, high quality photo paper on your photo inkjet printer
2 ) Cut out individual targets into squares
3 ) Cut strips of 3M VHB clear adhesive tape (I purchased at local home supply store)
4 ) Attach adhesive tape to back side of each square target cutout while carefully aligning it to where cut circle target will be completely covered by the tape
5 ) Cut out 1" circle targets with scissors by hand (or if you can think of a better way, then please share)
6 ) Use a black Sharpie to color the white edge of the paper around the circumference of the circle
7 ) Clean and try playfield targets
8 ) Remove red tape backing (I used a razor knife to separate) then adhere to the appropriate target

While these are obviously not cut as cleanly as the ones you buy, they are very low cost and good enough for my taste. If you take your time and do a good job, in life-sized view you really don't notice the imperfections of the cut.


#2566 4 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

I'm not sure whats going on there based on the pics because I can only see these on my phone atm but do those coil bases have the little plastic nipple in the slot? Maybe they are moving? Were those coils that way when you purcahsed the pin and were the coil sleeves replaced?

Coils are the same as purchased, but sleeves and rest of the assembly are new. If it is not something overly obvious, I am okay with the setup I have arrived to at this point. However, if something simple, I am more than happy to experiment.

#2573 4 years ago
Quoted from rottenrobert1313:

And the same thing as what I mentioned. I must not have explained it well enough. Just bend the tab with a crescent wrench. Its the tab that has the rubber stop in it and the "elbow" of the linkage stops against. This will allow the flipper to rest a bit lower. Then adjust the bat and it will go a little higher.

Now I understand. The idea is to extend the resting position which will give the bat more overall travel when activated. I will give this a try, and report my results.

#2574 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

I like those, so realistic looking. Yes you should have put a couple layers of mylar over them.

Great suggestion, but I will have to buy some. Can you get Mylar at a hobby or craft shop (I have never used the stuff before)?

#2578 4 years ago
Quoted from Da_Topper:

My Getaway came from The Pinball Show in Arizona from 1992. It was the game that was given to the winner of the tourney. Played at their home only and I bought it in 1993. So I'm the 2nd owner. I don't remember ever changing the coils but I believe we did do the linkage. I have 15 loops on my game.

Thanks for the pics. It would appear to me that your left flipper is slightly misaligned to the right one (a little lower, but this could be just my perception). However, considering this it also looks like your range of motion on both flippers is identical (left is a fraction lower than right both in lower and upper positions). I'm going to attempt the brute force method of bending out the left flipper mount and see if I can get mine to be more equal.

#2582 4 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

That is the correct post for that area, a double ring Star post. 7 loops is my best but idk when I did that, must of been a long time ago because 5 is my tops lately.

Can someone explain what "loops" are for this purpose? I've seen the stat on the DMD, but haven't taken the time to look it up or figure it out on my own. BTW, mine shows 42 . . . is that good?

#2587 4 years ago

For all of you commenting on my loops, did you not see my growing nose emoji (ie Pinochio reference)? Looks like another failed attempt at levity on my part.

#2594 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

For those of you who added the ball well lighting (or whatever it is called where the balls drain between the flippers underneath the apron), do you get a bad reflection on the DMD? I love the lighting on the playfield, but given the angles and my height (6'3") the reflection of the light strip is right on the middle of the DMD (btw, I also have a bent plastic installed).

So, I end d up removing the light then under mounting it on the apron to where it pointed down instead of out. The reflection is much improved, and still lights the flipper area well.

#2597 4 years ago

If you have thought about trying Rubylith to convert your DMD from orange to red, here is my take on it (I was not satisfied).


#2598 4 years ago

So, I finally decided to try and figure out why often times pressing flipper buttons results in points (doesn't seem to be the same score every time). What I discovered so far through testing switches is that sometimes the center trough switch (57) will open when flippers are pushed (left or right). Could this be the cause of my issue? If so, how do I fix it? If not, where else should I look?

#2601 4 years ago
Quoted from Bob86ZZ4:

I'm going to install my l.e.d. kit soon. Thinking about replacing all the rubber too. Anybody have advice what I should replace with? I need to buy a kit for it. Too much work for me to figure out all the stuff on my own. I'm thinking about those translucent ones? Thanks.

A couple of points of advice:

1) Consider doing your own LEDs instead of a kit. Take a look earlier in this thread a page or two back, and you will find all the resources you need. I personally detailed every lamp, and even gave my color selections. Also, others added some good opinions to the discussion. I ended up saving $50+ bucks not going with a kit which I put into additional lighting (again, see earlier in thread)

2) As far as the rubbers, for the rings I went with Titan translucent Competition Silicone and love them. I really like the looks of the lighting with the translucent rings, and I've not had any issues with them getting dirty thus far. For the flippers, I went with red and green PerfectPlay Silicone from Pinball Life. I love the way these play verses traditional rubbers. Finally, for the posts, I went with red, yellow, and green colored post sleeves from Pinball Life. Again, you can browse through recent pages of this thread and see pics of tables with translucent, red, black, white, etc. rubbers to see what you like. If you are seriously interested in the translucent then I would be happy to post more detailed pics.

Bottom line is that it is your game, and outfit it the way you want in your own style. I will admit that I am more to the personalized style with different colored jets, all kinds of lighting mods, custom gear shifter, and all sorts of red/yellow/green theming throughout the table (target covers, posts, post covers, LED pop bumpers, etc.) If you're more of a traditionalist and want to keep the original look of the table, then that is good too.

Also, if you are referring to a rubber kit and not LED kit like I assumed, I would be happy again to inventory for you what is required if not already done so earlier in this forum. I found that going by the manual was not quite accurate (or at least not clear to me).

#2602 4 years ago

Silicone Rings:

2 x 1" Inner Diameter
3 x 1 1/4" ID
2 x 2 1/2" ID
8 x 7/16" ID
2 x 3/4" ID
6 x 5/16" ID
8 x 7/16" Outer Diameter

Feel free to chime in if anyone thinks this should be modified.

#2604 4 years ago
Quoted from yonkiman:

Can you describe what's happening in a little bit more detail, i.e. "I put the machine in switch test mode, press the right or left flipper, and the DMD says switch 57 was pushed. This happens about once for every 4 flipper pushes (the exact number seems random)"? It's hard to debug things remotely, so the more details you can provide, the more likely one of us will be able to help.

What I meant to say is that the flippers seem to trigger switch 57 and 56 open periodically. It is like the vibration is tripping them. When putting machine in switch test mode and setting to switch 56 or 57 then flipping the flippers, the DMD will show the switches sporadically opening. In game mode this translates to points being added just by pushing the flipper buttons.

#2606 4 years ago

Not always both switches at the same time. Banging cabinet hard does not seem to do anything. Also does not happen when moving flippers by hand. Even when I hold the switches still and press flipper buttons it occurs. Almost seems like something electrical.

#2611 4 years ago
Quoted from n1teowl:

I've got an extra snow capped mountain mod that came with my new Getaway. It's already got one installed so I'm planning on selling the extra and am trying to gauge interest. It's the mod based on the original molds and I believe that there were 100 made. PM me if interested.

Throw a price out, and let the feeding frenzy begin.

#2615 4 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Not many optos in Getaway

I know of 3 pair in SC magnets and one in SC ramp. Any others? I have actually replaced 2 pair in SC for other reasons but issue was occurring before and after that operation.

#2617 4 years ago
Quoted from pinnyheadhead:

Looking for an honest price opinion from Getaway owners. This is my game. Game is stock except for the dual LED flashers. No LED's. Game has always played great and the supercharger still whips balls around fast! Plastics and DMD are good. Playfield is in good shape except minor insert wear around the black inside borders of some RPM's around the shift wheel. Decals have fade and wear, front has been drilled for security bar.
Any quick opinions are good. I would like a "priced to sell" price if possible. Thanks

I paid $2,450 for mine similar condition a few months ago (your playfield looks to be in better condition than mine). I've since performed a few repairs and several upgrades, and probably have around $3K in it now.

Not saying this was good or bad, but what the market bore or me in DFW this year.

#2625 4 years ago
Quoted from Bob86ZZ4:

Thanks a ton for this. Question, are the 8 x 7/16" Outer Diameter for the posts? Reason I'm wondering they do show the breakdown of rings for the Getaway on the Titan site. It shows no 7/16" OD, but it does show "Post sleeves-standard" and calls for 8 of those. Here's where I found the kit database: https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/view/id/335

Yes, the small spikey red posts (traffic cones) on top of plastics. They never come into contact with a ball, but having something on them adds to the overall look.

#2627 4 years ago

I was wondering if this was normal back ramp behavior:

- Back ramp is in down mode
- Ball is drained and back ramp raises
- Next ball is launched
- At the last second the back ramp lowers, ball goes up it slightly but not enough to make it to Donut Heaven, and then ball returns down ramp and is diverted to pop bumper area instead of making full loop.

As far as I can tell, my ramp is working correctly under all circumstances and my ball launch power seems very good. Watching in every other situation, it appears to me that the ramp gets out of the way for play but seems to purposefully get in the way in this scenario. May just be the way it is, but thought I would ask. FYI, I'm on v2 of firmware but I seem to recall v1 behaved the same.

#2629 4 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

No, if you drain when the ramp is down, the ramp should raise when the new ball is launched from the shooter and then travel under the ramp, then the ramp should lower once it passes underneath giving you a chance to hit the ramp with the upper flipper.

This does not occur. What can I do to adjust the ramp timing, or is this some switch issue? My shooter seems powerful enough as the ball quickly and easily makes the loop under normal circumstances.

As an update, if the ball drains with the Free Ride light on, when the shooter self launches the ball it does make the loop with the ramp lowering after the ball passes.

#2632 4 years ago
Quoted from yonkiman:

When you say "At the last second the back ramp lowers", you mean it lowers after the ball is launched and right before the ball gets to the ramp? That is really strange, particularly if the ramp otherwise works reliably 100% of the time.
Why does the ball not make it up to donut heaven? Did the ramp not go down fully (slowing the ball down as it transitioned from playfield to ramp) or did the launcher not have enough power?
Do you have a credit dot (indicating some of the switches may not be working correctly)? In normal operation if lock is lit and a ball is launched, the ramp raises for the launch, then lowers after the ball has looped around under the ramp once (so if you make the upper flipper shot it will go up the ramp). I'm guessing that the ramp lowers after it detects one or more of the lane switches (SW17 and/or SW18) closing. If one of those switches was bad (shorted closed), the software might think/"guess" that the plunged ball had completed the loop before it actually had, causing the ramp to come down early.
That's my best guess given what you've provided. Let me know if you've got a credit dot (a period right after the number of credits on the DMD) or any more clues... I'd perform a full switch test to make sure your switch matrix (switches and diodes) are all OK.

Correct, ramp lowers right before ball hits it.

Shooter does not launch with enough power to send ball all the way up the ramp (it is close).

I don't recall seeing a credit dot, but will have to check when I return home. (Just checked - no credit dot)

I've performed switch test multiple times, and everything appears to be functioning correctly.

Odd thing is that most times when ball is auto launched as a Free Ride, the ramp timing is correct and ball passes underneath.

#2635 4 years ago
Quoted from yonkiman:

Maybe the "ramp high during launch" is on a timer (vs using the switches) and it thinks it's giving the ball enough time to go under it but because your kicker is weak it's not? In which case you'd want to inspect/rebuild/repair your plunger assembly and/or the high current driver board that drives it. Do your flippers / slingshots seem to be the correct strength?
I really don't think that's it though, because if the plunger was weak enough to not go around the loop in time, it would be too weak to even make the loop shot. Wish I had a better theory - I'll keep thinking on it. And you can always ask Lloyd: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/forum/lloyd

While I don't have another Getaway I can use to compare, everything seems strong to me. Flippers can make all the shots with power and slings are very responsive. If I get industrious, maybe I can shoot some video that might help. Game still plays great, but for some reason I decided to question this the other day. May not find an answer, so I'll try not to let it bug me too much.

#2648 4 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

Ahh ok. Nice! May i ask where you got them ?

FYI, I am working on some homemade ones that I will print on my own. I don't know if I will like them or not. My idea is to print on oversized coated paper on a color laser printer the use double-sided tape to attach, but I will have to print on 3 separate sheets per blade and splice together. Thought I would try the poor man's route before I spent money on real decals or mirrors (I think I would really like mirrors, but a little fearful of scratching them and wasting the $$$).

Even though I did the artwork myself originating from images I could find on the web, I did "borrow" the overall design concept from tilt's take on them. My plan is to leave the right blade "as is" but add the Getaway Lambo to the left one (same design as in center of playfield - not shown in image as I've not yet completed).

I would possible be open to other Getaway design ideas if anyone is looking for a DIY blade project.


#2651 4 years ago
Quoted from Flippermatt:

Inside cab decals for Getaway, are there any out there ?

Can you please clarify? What exactly are you looking for?

#2652 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

FYI, I am working on some homemade ones that I will print on my own. I don't know if I will like them or not. My idea is to print on oversized coated paper on a color laser printer the use double-sided tape to attach, but I will have to print on 3 separate sheets per blade and splice together. Thought I would try the poor man's route before I spent money on real decals or mirrors (I think I would really like mirrors, but a little fearful of scratching them and wasting the $$$).
Even though I did the artwork myself originating from images I could find on the web, I did "borrow" the overall design concept from tilt's take on them. My plan is to leave the right blade "as is" but add the Getaway Lambo to the left one (same design as in center of playfield - not shown in image as I've not yet completed).
I would possible be open to other Getaway design ideas if anyone is looking for a DIY blade project.

I finished designing, printing, cutting, and installing my homemade blades. Overall, I like the way they look and they were pretty easy to install. My one complaint is that the blade template is actually too tall in my opinion, and much of my artwork doesn't show. If I had to do it again (and I just might sometime soon), I would make the blades shorter and scale the artwork to be a little smaller. Anyway, here are some pics. Please note that I was too lazy to get out the real camera, so these were taken with me cell phone (makes it look like the playfield is foggy).


#2654 4 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

These just arrived. Can't wait to put them on once the chrome is finished

Would love to see pics of blades when installed. I'm wondering if they end up looking like my homemade ones where all you really see is sky and tops of mountains. I modeled mine from a mirror blade pattern, and didn't think to actually measure visible part of blade before I created the design.

#2655 4 years ago
Quoted from biglaw:

got to see speaker sample. trying to figure how to put good pics. inserted some but were to small to really tell anything.

You need to take high resolution photos (digital camera or even new cell phone) in good lighting. Then when uploading to forum, first try selecting "Original Size" for image (dropdown to the right) and if that fails select "High-res". You must select the resolution setting before adding the images. Default is "Med-res" which often is not the best for showing close-up and detail.

#2679 4 years ago

I just got around to redesigning my custom blades after realizing the art wasn't high enough on the blade to show properly (see earlier post). Anyway, here are some pics. If you are interested in making your own, I'm happy to provide the Photoshop file and/or the PDFs of each section.

Since I don't have a banner/wide format printer, I just printed in 3 sections per side on glossy 11x17 on laser printer. Then I cut out with straight edge and razor knife, used appropriate color sharpie around all outside edges (not joints), taped sections together on backside, then used double-sided tape around all edges, joints, and sporadically on back of blades.

To install, I cut out the circle for the backbox hinge, unscrewed the hinge, placed blade so that it aligned with bottom edge of glass channel, then moved playfield around until I could press down on all around to secure the blade. After putting hinges back on and putting playfield back into place all was good.

I realize this is a poor man's DIY, but I really like the look and feel of having the blades. If the seems end up bothering me too much (they are barely noticeable) then I may spring for professionally printed ones in the future.






#2684 4 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

Looks great! Does it catch when you lift the playfield?

No, not at all. It is just thick gloss paper with very thin Scotch double sided tape. I did notice scratches on my first set towards the back below the Playfield, so if I ever bought mirrors or even professionally printed blades, I would also line sides of Playfield with something to prevent scratching. Also, I now know to be very careful when lifting Playfield.

#2691 4 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

My playfield scratches the HELL out of my cabinet. Es no bueno. This can't be normal. When I have the cabinet redone, I'll def have that issue address so I'm not scratching it or the decals that'll be there anymore:

I have some internal cabinet scratching, but not to your extent. However, it does appear that all of this would be below the visible portion of the blades when the playfield is in normal operation position. This is another reason why I wanted to custom make my own. I didn't really care if they got damaged since I have virtually no $$$ in them (just some of my time). I would definitely be bummed if I dropped $50 to $100 for professional printed or mirror blades then I scratched them to heck.

#2705 4 years ago

Woohoo! Just set my personal best at 181 million & change. Also, set new loop record at 8. Game is really fun when it gets cranking! Now I have a 200 million plus goal!

1 week later
#2730 4 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

is there suppose to be a sticker on the plunger lane apron extension? it looks naked.

Here is what I did for mine, but I like the gear shifting too.


1 week later
#2745 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Well I would have to wait until I put it all back together but I will let you know.
Some questions: I have run the done the tests but honestly all seems to work fine. How can I find out for sure a magnet is out?
If I do have a bad magnet, how do I replace it? Is it hard to do? Thanks

Pretty simple and there are 2 tests you need to run.

T.12 Supercharger - enter this test and enable all 3 magnets by pressing up or down test buttons, then launch a ball by hand into the SC. You should see the optos open as it passes through (closed by default). If opto is stuck in open position by default then you have a problem as it will not activate the corresponding magnet.

T.13 SC Time Test - enter this test and roll a ball into the SC. Once up to speed, see what your avg is. I think it should at least be in high 80's but don't exactly remember. If all mags are working but you are getting slow rates then may be mag related.

I also had some issues with one of the fuses (see earlier post in this forum) where it kept blowing. I believe the issue for me was a couple of bad optos. After replacing, my SC has worked perfectly for some time now.

2 weeks later
#2915 4 years ago
Quoted from Manimal:

Anyone know of a source for the "Getaway and car" banner decal that goes on the side of the upper ramp? Getting down to the last phases of a complete rebuild and thought I would replace my faded one.

You will want to PM "biglaw" as he may still have some to sell (he was the source for my replacement).

3 weeks later
#3001 4 years ago

Have any of you guys done any paint repairs to your Playfield? I've posted in vid's guide, but looking for someone with experience on our pin (eg colors you used, techniques, etc.) I have issues with black, blue, orange, and yellow. I am especially interested in how you have addressed the yellow stoplights as this seems too detailed for me just to hand paint.