Getaway: High Speed II, The
Williams, 1992You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider monkfe.
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Joined the club today and after going through the machine and testing the supercharger(time test I believe), I came across an issue with the divertor opening after one or two spins around wih the ball...Should that not be staying open untill you stop the test...and what would cause the divertor to open that way?...
Quoted from Hapidance:its ALIVE !!!!!
it wound up being a loose connection.
I turned on the power and a game began!
Amazingly, the Supercharger not only works , but it works well.
Now to play a few dozen games and find all the trouble spots.
I'm thinking it needs a new set of hinges to start
I'm going to try and bend them back into shape first and see how that works out.
I'd rather spend the $$ on fun stuff instead of hinges.
Interesting my right hinge is shot too...must have been a bad batch...never had this issue with any of my other B/W games...
Quoted from Paseb:i installed a khar no reset on my getaway and the color dmd is now freezing. I put back original connector and dmd is fine.
i also put it in my dirry harry and road show, both has color dmd and its fine.
anyone had this problem?
Well that board taps Into your 12v to supply your 5v, so I'm guessing your tapping out that supply...I use an ezsbc 12v regulator whenever I get a new machine...replace that small cap next to it too
Quoted from Paseb:how come I dont have issue with my 2x other william pins?
not sure i want to go into removing the board and install a cap to be able to use khar product...
I would imagine your 12v regulated supply is overstressed or just needs a rebuilding...I've found bad caps on low time machines so just age can kill them...
Quoted from Pinstein:zztop cameo.
[quoted image]
I like that...now where to get
I saw someone send their super charger out to get polished...where did you send it? Also for those of you that have added the led lighting to it is it just a simple led strip or is it connected to a micro controller..I've seen one mod for that...but pricey
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Do not "polish" your supercharger, you will ruin it (trust me, I tried on my first one not realizing that any type of polishing compound will destroy the finish). You could probably have it "chromed", but may be cheaper just to buy a new one (about $70 at Marco Specialties).
Isn't it just stainless steel? Could have been the chromed one cant recall and cant find the pic...but ok either way...
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:No, it is plastic with a plastic "chrome" finish (sort of like the chrome on today's plastic care interiors that will flake off). I think it is a vapor deposit of nickel, actually. My mistake was thinking it was metal when I tried to polish mine. I ended up painting it, but in the end bit the bullet and bought a new one.
Ok my bad here as I think were talking about two different things, I'm referring to the actual supercharger loop, not the plastic imitation air inlet...
Quoted from tiltmonster:Just to be clear and that we are all talking about the same thing...
The Super Charger is stainless steal the super charger cover over the 3 red lights is not, it's chromed plastic...
Correct , I thought I had seen someone send out the supercharger to get highly polished...was wondering cost etc?
Quoted from vandergugten:Picture shows the "Ramp Lifting Mechanism Assembly" (the up/down or lock ramp), as viewed from the back on my Getaway.
Can someone confirm that the "pin" mounts inside the ramp (as pictured) and not below it? In my case, the pin was below the ramp causing it to "bind" in the up position and not flush with the playfield in the down position.
[quoted image]
I don't think that is the correct "pin", mine fit into the slot...don't have a pic though...I'm sure others do...
Quoted from Mancave:TBH neither of the 2 examples shown look correct. The coil sleeve should not be protruding through the hole that the plunger comes out of (monkfe's pics) and the bell armature is definitely too short in golfergordy's pics.
I've owned my Getaway for nearly 10 years and never had a problem with the kick assembly not making the loop
Mr_Tantrum's part number matches the one I have in the manual...and I just went and confirmed the measurement. 2.625 inches overall which is what marco lists it at as well....so I believe that is the correct sleeve
Quoted from golfergordy:Malenko - I agree with all you said. Where did you get the decal on the top of the bracket that covers on top of the kicker mechanism?
Reach out to Mr_Tantrum for that and other decals for this machine...he makes numerous ones...
Quoted from Seth1977:is this it?
[quoted image]
Yeah mine is longer for sure, but that's listed for the getaway...I wonder if the shorter length prevents some hangups I get from time to time...
Quoted from Seth1977:is this it?
[quoted image]
Has anyone used this updated part(lifts the ramp)?...I was looking at my ramp yesterday and I realized this has to extend via the back plywood before entering the ramp...seems like it would be too short...but It was just my guessing at it...anyone?
edit : this part
Quoted from sparksterz:I visited pinwiki last night...getting the ever so fun WPC reset when hitting both flippers on cold boot. Seems to alleviate while letting the machine "warm up"
Reading the following voltages:
4.95v at TP2
4.90v at pin 32 of ROM
9.6v-9.0v from BR2 at idle
116v from wall as well as accessory port while machine is off.
Examined and re-seated: J101, J114, J116, J117 & J118 - didn't seem to have any poor connections or pins. Checked for tight grounded screws on the corners of the driver board and all seems good there as well.
The only thing I couldn't seem to figure out how to check were the flipper diodes...perhaps I'm just dense, but is there any way to test those without taking them off of the coil entirely?
Tried getting a min/max reading from 5v on TP2 a couple times when the machine would reset, but it might be too rapid of a drop/recovery to be detected with my multi-meter.
Would be interested to hear any other thoughts. Tempted to just pull it and replace LM323 but that seems like jumping a ways ahead...
you do have to pull the diode to test them on coils...at least one leg, but you typically have to replace it (and they're cheap), but if it was bad, I think you would have other problems...have you replaced all your electrolytic caps on the PDB? espically that 5V cap(C4 I believe)?...
Quoted from sparksterz:Nope - none of them yet. Is it typical to do across the board cap replacements? Or just kinda one at a time in targeted areas?
Yeah at this age, replace them all....I will caution you though, replacing the 15000uf caps can be tricky, look up the youtube video that Chris Hibler put out on how hes does this...I use two soldering irons (well my desolder iron and a regular one) to remove them as they're snapped in and can easily cause damage if not careful....all the others come out pretty easy...Marco sells the 15K caps(dont use the snap in type), but I like to order from Greeat plains electronics for everything if he has them in stock...
edit, GPE has them in stock...
Quoted from Hapidance:Mr_Tantrum
Berkeley CA ? Eeeww no.
That would be the actual NJ Parkway exit we take for the shore New Jersey shore ( nothing like the show) I’m East
Coast ; A Different kind of crazy.
Funny, just took that exit yesterday.....
Quoted from Hapidance:Which coast?
East...NJ parkway exit 77
Quoted from Hapidance:I took off the apron on for the first time to do a little cleaning.
It really needs it!
One thing leads to another ….
In any case, is painting the bracket blue too much?
Before and after .
[quoted image]
Looks nice...about to do a teardown...more stuff is to do...pffft
Quoted from golfergordy:Regarding my plan (post # 11666) to implement a solution (hopefully) to solve why my SC diverter sometimes closes too slow resulting in the ball not being returned to the left flipper - I've had many unexpected problems to resolve this past week and haven't yet addressed this issue. Some (but not all) of the unexpected problems were with The Getaway game, which were more important to solve than the diverter problem. First, the link which attaches to the end of the coil plunger for the right slingshot broke and fell to the bottom of the cabinet. With people coming to my house to play the game I had to figure out a quick fix since ordering a new link wouldn't arrive soon enough, so I fabricated a replacement link out of a piece of scrap aluminum from my junk pile of approx. the correct thickness, and it worked just fine. It even made the slingshot shoot the ball much faster than before. I inspected this same link on the left slingshot and found it to be broken, but still hanging in there and doing it's job, albeit w/o much power.
Another problem also developed which I hope someone has an idea of how to solve. The game's left flipper operates with strong power and quickly returns to the resting position when I immediately release the flipper button. If I hold the flipper button in for a second or 2 before releasing the button, the flipper holds its up position for maybe a second (and sometimes longer if I hold in the button longer) before returning to the resting position. Here's what I've done so far: A month or 2 ago I replaced all the flipper coil sleeves and after replacement they all, at that time, seemed to work with a bit more power. This past week I 1)closely inspected the mechanism and it all looks clean and in perfect condition. 2) I also removed the coil plunger link and cleaned it and flipped it around in case there was any wear causing my problem. 3) I added a second spring to the mechanism to create more force to bring the flipper back to rest. 4) With the power off, I manually operated the flipper, and even held it in the up position for many seconds, and it always immediately returns to the resting position. 5) The EOS switch appears to mechanically work well when I visually inspected it. 6) I inspected the leaf switch by the flipper button and it looks fine. I don't think there's a mechanical problem anywhere since it works well when I manually operate it, so I'm now thinking there's an electrical problem. Any suggestions - please (thanks).
How does it work in test mode, does it release ok? if it does, I'd look at the switch as someone else suggested...my other thought was sometimes the coil sleeve isn't quite lined up right (or they're not the right size) and when installing the coil stop it may cock it a bit. Loosen both screws, have a helper (or a clamp), keep it tight and then tighten the screws....hope that helps..
Quoted from golfergordy:There is no flipper test in the solenoid testing mode (somehow whoever set up the testing forgot about the flippers). The only flipper test I could find was in single switch test mode which doesn't really tell me anything, other than it said the switch was open (which it should be normally). While in this test mode, I did press the left flipper button and energized the flipper and it operated just like it does when playing the game - when you press the left flipper button and immediately release it, the flipper immediately returns to the resting position, but if you press the flipper button and hold the button in for 1 or 2 seconds the flipper hesitates for about 1/2 second before it goes back to the resting position. If you hold the button in longer, the hesitation is longer before going to the rest position - this is annoying when you trap the ball on this flipper.
The coil sleeve is new (as of approx. 2-months ago) The coil plunger slides very smoothly back & forth in the sleeve and everything looks to be lined up properly. The entire mechanism looks very clean and operates smoothly. I even installed a 2nd plunger return spring to increase the force to return the flipper to the resting position. When I manually operate the flipper it always immediately returns to the resting position, no matter how long I hold the flipper up. The coil stop isn't adjustable - the screw holes don't have any slop to allow changing its position. I did loosen the screws and retighten them, but they're still in the same position as before.
The flipper leaf switch looks to be in good condition and makes solid contact, and contact is broken immediately when the button is released (the leaf switch contact doesn't stick closed even if the button is held in for a few seconds prior to releasing the button).
I'm convinced that there's no mechanical problem, and my thought, now, is that there may be a problem on the fliptronic board.
you have to go into coil test to test the flippers, hold the coin door switch in to activate the coil too or the test to fire....see how that goes....does sound like an electrical issue though...
Quoted from Paseb:hey guys
im doing my PF swap shortly,
i will order new targets and 1x magnet coil(i have a bad one)
otherwise, i have that on my list. am i missing something? or do I have too much(some not needed)
all flippers were rebuilt recently. it's already converted to LED and titans rubbers.
[quoted image][quoted image]
knocker brackets rarely go bad...not sure why you want to replace that....
Quoted from tiltmonster:Nice! I must have missed these on their site so if you can, and wouldn't mind, please post a photo once installed, I'd love to see how those look when you get them on your machine.
Its going to be a few months as I just sent the playfield out to be touched up/clear coated....
Quoted from Hapidance:monkfe
Are you going mirrior polish or brushed finish on the metal ramps?
No plans for the polish...change my mind...
Quoted from tiltmonster:All good, thank you! How did you order these?
Just shoot cliffy an email....passionforpinball.com I believe is the correct site....
Quoted from golfergordy:The up/down ramp flap on my Getaway game is cracked and starting to rust (but still works ok), so it's on my list for a near future replacement. The Cliffy flaps look great (they're stainless steel) and I'd like to install them, but I've got a few questions:
1) what size are the repair rivets for the up/down ramp flap? - the up/down ramp parts list isn't shown in the owners' manual, but the rivets look like the same size as for the supercharger ramp flap (1/8 x 1/8 Lg. nic. plt.). monkfe - what size did you use?
2) Another question - How did you install the rivets? Is there a rivet installation tool out there? Can some other tool be improvised to do the job so I don't have to pay $30 for aThe up/down ramp flap on my Getaway game is cracked and starting to rust (but still works ok), so it's on my list for a near future replacement. The Cliffy flaps look great (they're stainless steel) and I'd like to install them, but I've got a few questions:
1) what size are the repair rivets for the up/down ramp flap? - the up/down ramp parts list isn't shown in the owners' manual, but the rivets look like the same size as for the supercharger ramp flap (1/8 x 1/8 Lg. nic. plt.). monkfe - what size did you use?
2) Another question - How did you install the rivets? Is there a rivet installation tool out there? Can some other tool be improvised to do the job so I don't have to pay $30 for a one-time-use-tool?
I used the smallest ones in the kit from pinball restore...I'd have to go and look when I get home unless someone else can chime in...I have a rivet press I made from an arbor press, but they do make hand held tools for these which I also use from time to time as there are clearance issues sometimes with the press. Amazon also sells some rivet tools
edit: I believe I used the 1/8 x 5/32 rivet for the ramp flaps...
Quoted from Mancave:Buy the extended dies from Pin Restore for the arbor press setup and that solves any reach problem i've encountered so far. Note that you can't use both longer dies at the same time though, 1 standard and 1 long.
Yeah they're out of business now...but yeah I should have purchased that long die as they custom made that one
Quoted from Mancave:DAMN, just looked up the site and had no idea
I found the same tool on amazon for hand riveting, but not the one them made special for the press....could probably be machined down....
Quoted from AlexRogan84:https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-check-f114-amp-f115-error-troubleshooting
You can read up on troubleshooting the F114 and F115 fuse error here. Lots of good advice and approaches to figuring out where exactly the problem is.
Mine ultimately was related to the coil for the supercharger diverter arm being in backwards and shorting out to another component next to it.
speaking of which, what is the correct orientation of that coil to keep it out of harms way...
So does the original beacon work as originally designed? I would think so as you havent disabled the controller to add the additional lights right?
I have a low ceiling in my basement and this could be an alternative...
Quoted from Kawydud:https://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/tech_charts.htm
Scroll down to The Getaway. Hope it helps
Not exactly, the original one was long, this is more informational....but thanks...
Quoted from MJW:Is that red supercharger letter yours or Mr Tantrum?
I have not seen that before.
anyone have a link to this? ...can't find it on thingiverse
Quoted from rvermeire:Supercharger Magnet 3 is not working.
I measured ohms but result is nothing, the other 2 gave around 4ohm.
Should I Conclude it's defective or can I test something else first as it doesn't look easy to replace
yes defective, but look at the coil wire itself, may have just broke off at the lug...if so you can reattach and solder it...
Quoted from retroware99:I recently picked up a very nice machine and was playing it last night when the ball I was playing went totally missing! I was playing a single ball and if I recall I had an air ball off the left side of the playfield and then poof - it was gone! I was like what? l've searched everywhere for the ball including the cabinet and the floor. Any ideas where the ball could be hiding?
Also, how does one raise the playfield to a full vertical service position? The way I've been doing it (pulling it out as far as it will go and then hinging to vertical) crushes the springs on the hinge.
The original playfield "slides" or pivot mechanism are a known issue with these machines..I had similar problems with one of my slides and replaced it...
Quoted from mikusm:I'm having an issue with my lift ramp. It lifts fine but, takes a few fires to drop. The last time this happened, I was able to tighten the assembly and it started working fine again. I have inspected the pin and its tight. I dont see anything bent or out of shape, just the pin doesnt drop until its about a 1/2 an inch from the top. Any ideas?
check to see if there is anything stuck at the hinge area...when I purchased my machine, there was a wingnut stuck in there which caused binding...easy to have a screw find its way there...and hard to get to as well...good luck...
so I ran into an issue with my right flipper lane switch hitting the bell on the shooter lane kicker...new switch. I removed one fiber segment to get it closer to the wall of the cabinet, but as you can see if the flipper switch is activated while the ball is shooting (multiball lets say), it going to make contact...I have the frame of the kicker as close to the playfield as it can go. What have others done here...didn't have this problem prior to the restoration....
20220518_143735 (resized).jpgQuoted from GRUMPY:Do you have the correct flipper button installed? Should be a 1 1/8 inch in length, not 1 3/8 inch.
Quoted from Kobaja:I replaced the leaf switches with opto boards. There's a thread on how's to do that here. It's beautiful.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/converting-taf-flippers-from-leaf-switch-to-optical-boards#post-6725484
I thought about doing this...but decided to leave it stock
Quoted from GRUMPY:Do you have the correct flipper button installed? Should be a 1 1/8 inch in length, not 1 3/8 inch.
yup, 1-1/8, but the problem seems resolved by simply centereing the playfield more to the center via the hangers. So thanks all...
Quoted from nocreditdot:Any of you guys know the part number for the pin that raises the lifting ramp in the back?
Thanks
Mike
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4268
but I found this to be really short, I kept the one I had in mine which was twice as long...I reached out to marco to look into it...haven't heard back
Quoted from Gorgonzola:nocreditdot, monkfe, this is the one you're looking for. It's called a 'pin crank' in the parts list, but Marco has it listed as a 'bumper post':
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=02-4590
yeah that looks like the one I had...I would have never found it listed that way ...I'll follow up with marco on it...
edit-Marco has changed/added to the name now and associated it with the lift crank so now it will be easier to find..now called a bumper post pin crank
I have a set of plastic protectors for Getaway that I never used. I don't recall who I purchased them from, but it was a european company...They're a little thicker than the ones that pinbits used to make, but they work. 40 shipped.. I also have the light bar that Mr_Tantrum has on his machine that I believe was made to tap into a pinsound board. I don't recall all the particulars of the install. Never out of the box... 30.00 ...shoot me a pm in interested.
Quoted from Cobradvs:What are the plastic protectors exactly? Picture?
They protect the plastics from damage from the ball
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Toms River, NJ