(Topic ID: 78179)

Getaway Club ~ Dispatch, run a make on license plate KINGPIN

By MrSanRamon

5 years ago

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  • 9,422 posts
  • 352 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Malenko
  • Topic is favorited by 163 Pinsiders


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“Which S/W Version do you use?”

  • L1 17 votes
  • L2 136 votes
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(Multiple choice - 259 votes by 258 Pinsiders)

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#350 4 years ago

I've had the machine for awhile now, was the 3rd pin i bought, so, about time i joined the club and posted a few pics. A BIG shout out and THANKS to Mezel Mods, i really LOVE the blue topper flashers, they add to the "feel" of the game (getting chased by the cops, driving like a loonie, wind blowing the hair back, etc, etc), errrmm NOT that i've done that mind you . I also dig the donut heaven store and the police car as well. I've added a few other bits (alternative translite, LED star posts all round and LED price cards). Must also give a big HOY and TY to Dave for the flipper toppers as well (Love your work mate). I've ordered the plastic set and can't wait to put those on too

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#352 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Looks great but you haven't done my sling plastics light mod yet. Or lit up the highway on the back under the supercharger.

I'm getting there i did put in a spotlight under the accelerator ramp, top right
I like the idea of lighting up the ramp and the sling plastics, will do those when i put the new plastic set on.

1 week later
#379 4 years ago
Quoted from pinnyheadhead:

How many of you have hit the 3 ball supercharger shot and how long did it take you to hit it? That is hit it with the glass still on

I've done 3 balls in the supercharger a few times now (maybe 4 times or so), but i've got to say it was more arse than class

3 weeks later
#383 4 years ago

OK, installed new plastics (check), went with the rebel ones (check), after being inspired by MustangPaul i've added a led strip for the highway and for the gauges (check), added green led strips under the plastics either side (check), added a MezelMod start key (check and LOVE it) and also added a 1/48th scale Lamborghini Diablo with led strip (CHECK). OHHH and also waxed and polished as well (and about time too). I'm really happy with the results, have i missed anything??

DSC00865.JPG DSC00867.JPG DSC00863.JPG DSC00866.JPG
#389 4 years ago
Quoted from Tmezel:

You asked, the small car that goes on top of the right side plastic. The lightbar flashes when lock is lit. There is a pic of a car there, covers it. And the blue flashers next to the MARS lamp. Glad you like the key mod.

I've got the bigger cop car top left I'm not sure my machine can handle any more mods without having a break down, LOL
BUT yes i love your mods sir, and can i put a vote in for a mountain mod of your own design !!

#397 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Thanks for the compliment, it looks GREAT but you did forget three

I've got the spotlight under the accelerator plastic, sooo 2 then
Will look into adding a led strip above the entrance ramp, and the 3rd?, where is the light attached for near the flippers?, on the front of the arch?

#398 4 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

What did you do to your flippers???

Sorry, forgot those, but i already had those attached earlier on. Those are flipper toppers, got them from Dave & Brenda on Etsy. I've got them on my JD, BOP and STTNG (different one's of course) and very chuffed to say i played a weeee teensie part in the Borg STTNG ones and the spaceman BOP ones (made a suggestion about the design)

2 months later
#511 4 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Yeah, awesome shots. Did you go with a led kit or buy individually? What kind of comet leds did you use? I'm interested in using leds in mine but with all the different choices, I have no idea what to use.

If you go with the individual option you can personalize your machine whereas a led kit is a "Set" option that dictates where and what colour the choices are. I personally feel that the user should choose their own colours and type of LED's. There are many varieties of LED's on the market, in my machine i have several types and to be honest there is not a massive difference between brands, BUT, choosing the correct sort of LED can be crucial. For Eg:- Using a flex LED in a position where the light needs to be directed towards the correct area or an LED to match a certain area on the playfield. You really do need to experiment and find what suits you!

2 weeks later
#540 4 years ago
Quoted from kyle5574:

I had my stoplight out of the machine today and noticed some designs on the PCB. Looks like "Butch" and "CET". Engineers leaving their marks, maybe?

LOL that's possible, BUT GEEEZZ that's some rough bloody soldering on that board (not pointing the finger at you mind)

1 month later
#608 4 years ago
Quoted from DocRotCod:

I may do that. I have the star post but was wondering about the size of the actual screw that goes through the post. Thanks

It's also possible to replace the plastic star post with a metal one and just use a cliffy rubber.

1 week later
#624 4 years ago

Got a divertor problem that has just shown up on my machine (first time for me). The whole upper ramp assembly was replaced a while back (including the coil, etc), and just recently i had the driver board fixed (was tripping the watchdog circuit). The ramp divertor was working before i had the driver board repaired but not afterwards. I doubt that the 2 are related and at this stage i've not had the time to take the ramp off to have a look at the inner workings underneath. The issue is this :- the divertor doesn't close to let the ball travel around the supercharger ring. Upon testing the solenoid, it just gives a slight click and moves about 5mm either way (for closed and open position) and that's it. Hoping to get the spare time to investigate next week but in the meantime has anyone got any ideas as to what may be the problem??

#635 4 years ago
Quoted from dtown:

Start with the physical. Can you physically move the diverter freely? If so, the next thing to do would be to pull the ramp up and look at the coil assembly. Broken wires,etc.

But. Before doing that, I'd crack out the manual schematic and trace the coil's wires to their associated transistor. It's probably on the driver board but, I guess, could be on the supercharger board under the playfield. I'd trace that coil's wires to the board. Make sure the connector is in the right spot. The manual or schematic will tell you. Then, with your DMM test that coil's tansistor.

Thanks dtown, gives me some ideas as to just where to look first. The diverter does move freely (the usual spring resistance, certainly not jammed in any way) I didn't think to look at the supercharger board but i can rule out the connector in the wrong place as it hasn't been moved since before it was working (unless of course it's dropped off, haven't had the time as yet to have a good look) I'm hoping it's not on the main driver board, otherwise it's back to get tested and possibly repaired, Cheers

#636 4 years ago
Quoted from Chet:

When you say driver board, are you referring to the supercharger accelerator board mounted on underside of the playfield? when you run solenoid diagnostics test, the diverter coil clicks, but the plunger is not energized (not being pulled to the coil stop)enough to cause the diverter to open? Trying to make sure the diverter paddle is tight to the shaft and that the diverter is not binding by moving it open closed by hand.

Yeah i meant the driver board in the head not the supercharger board. The coil energizes somewhat as it does move the diverter a small amount BUT not to the coil stop and the diverter is not binding that i can tell from my brief initial investigation.

#637 4 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Also, is the game throwing any errors?

Just the one "Diverter error"

2 weeks later
#668 4 years ago

Got my Diverter Error sorted and turned out (luckily) to be one of those easy fixes. The set screws had come loose on the shaft. PHHHEEEWWWWW
When a machine comes up with an error at "turn on" it's sometimes easy to forget that it's not always an electrical fault as such, but born from the fact that a particular switch hasn't operated for a game or so. Lesson learnt >>>>moving on

3 months later
#941 3 years ago
Quoted from biglaw:

picked these up today.

Put me down for a couple too

#946 3 years ago

Supercharger sticker in the mail and a trick supercharger Hydro Decal in the pipeline. Feeling like i've got all of the base's covered now ...... well i'm an Aussie, WTF would i know about baseball?

#961 3 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

Yeah, i was thinking actual colorDMD.

We can only hope that Getaway will become the next ColorDMD project but i'm not holding my breath just yet !

#966 3 years ago

Well this jazzed up the supercharger cover somewhat. I just got it recently Hydrocoated and received it in the mail today. So out with the chrome and in with the FLAMES

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1 week later
#975 3 years ago

Received my new Supercharger sticker from biglaw just recently and along with the Flamed cover it's made that area of the play field really pop.

2 weeks later
#988 3 years ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

I emailed CPR, was told that they are all this color. The colors were taken from some NOS plastics. I can understand things go wrong, just was hoping that mine was just a bad set.

If there was variance in colour between the plastics (the whole set) on the CPR ones it would be more of a big deal. To be honest, it's not an issue for me. You can find examples of colour variance in everything, e.g Take multiple photo's of a certain item in different lighting conditions/camera angles and you will get noticeable colour differences ( a great example of this is shown in Longjohns pic above, the orange around the super charger sign is much darker than the one in your pic)

2 weeks later
#1012 3 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

Ok cool! Sounds like the donut heaven is a go! Any opinions on the cars?

I've got the larger version of the cop car attached next to my super charger (refer to pics previous page and earlier). I think it looks in proportion and doesn't overwhelm that part of the play field but i also attached a Lambo (about the same scale) on the clear plastic to the right which matches nicely. They attach easily and i've not had any issues with it in the months i've had it. The larger version has more LEDS on it too.

#1027 3 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

I would love the coloeDMD but its just way to much dough at the moment. Especially with the exchange rate and shipping to Canada.

Could be worse, you could be in Aus
I looked into getting one recently but after postage and exchange rate it was $620

#1041 3 years ago
Quoted from Flippermatt:

Anybody please ?

I've got some second hand ones somewhere, i'll have a look and see if i can find them.

1 week later
#1060 3 years ago

This came in the mail yesterday
WOW!!!! Peter has done a fantastic job with these playfields, colours are SPOT ON, clear coat is awesome, very even over the entire surface, beautiful finish, inserts are all great and SOOOO SHINY
Although my original is still in good shape i just didn't want to miss out on the repros so into storage this goes, glad i pulled the trigger on this!!
Sorry for the crap photos






1 week later
#1074 3 years ago
Quoted from DEN:

Why so negative.
Seller had this game for years. Tells me low gameplay.
Colours does not look faded and pf got no wear. Rampexits looks great. Allright they are weak around buttons. But al in all it looks like low play.
But i just want to share with you guys, i am so Happy to soon join this awesome getaway club.

It's hard to tell if the machine has been re-decalled but certainly the colours (the main culprit to fade is the red) looks pretty good, BUT there's a fair amount of wear near the flipper button so it's had a decent amount of use. If it's had new cabinet art, that may reflect the quality of after market decals compared to the originals. All said and done the machine looks good to me overall and WELCOME to the club, enjoy it, love it, look after it

#1101 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

I just made another mod too, look for the topic DIY Leg Light-up

Gawwwwdd have i got MORE to add MP

#1109 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Do you guys use your knee or your hand to shift up? I use my knee.

Definitely hand, i like to keep my reflex's in top shape
Isn't knee "almost" cheating?

1 week later
#1171 3 years ago
Quoted from kyle5574:

It's probably around 30 hours per mod to populate the board and build the cables. I can't afford the time to offer them pre-built. I think I have enough parts for a few more and I'm thinking about offering those parts as a kit. I'll need to get the parts list together and figure out cost.

I'd be interested in a kit, would that have instructions with it? so i know where all the bits get soldered to the board, etc, etc. I'm not the most tech savvy kinda dude

#1172 3 years ago
Quoted from stateworker37764:

I'd love to join if that's alright with everyone how to love your photographs of I get away it's great to see what everyone else is also done to theirs would really love to add the mountain mod if anyone knows where I might be able to obtain one

OIII, you been copying my car placement, LOL. Just for a few seconds there i thought "Hang on??, That's MY machine!!"
Welcome to the club and if you want good ideas on mods and lighting tips check out MP's threads, he's got it all happening

#1179 3 years ago
Quoted from tilted81:

110 shipped to the lower 48

Would you ship it to Aus?

1 week later
#1226 3 years ago
Quoted from mof:

1. Is there a way to turn off the music, and just have the sound effects?

Easy and quick answer.. NO. But personally speaking i feel that would detract from the game not having La Grange blaring out.

Quoted from mof:

2. I have too many loop shots from the upper right flipper that collide with the underside of the ramp. Has anyone made adjustments to alleviate this? (I seem to be able to make many left orbits from the left flipper just fine, so I presume it's when there's the smallest of ball hops?)

To clarify. Do you mean that the ramp to the ball lock is getting in the way when the ball comes around that loop from the upper right flipper? Is the ramp partially lowered?, is it dropping onto the ball snagging it? That could be a few issues. I've not had any issues with the ball hitting the underside of the ramp on my machine when it loops, as far as i can remember.

#1231 3 years ago

If that's $340 US dollars then i'll just stick to bopping along to La Grange

#1236 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Yeah that's the big question. That's a game specific part I'll bet.

I got so excited about this that i went and did me some searching, found one, ordered it
I have no idea about attaching it but work that out later, looks like will just need to wire up a different plug i'm thinking.
The only place i could find these was at Marco's under Stern Harley Davidson (near the end of the listing), after ordering they were still available!!

#1239 3 years ago
Quoted from Toucanf16:

They show "Out of Stock" now

It's still showing as "In stock" for me, perhaps the site hasn't updated yet, but usually those kind of things update automatically. Try contacting them, might be worth a shot. The part may be available somewhere else, i sure don't know all the US/European part's suppliers, just the more mainstream one's (Marco, Pinballlife, Pinbits, etc). I did look at PSPA first but no luck unfortunately (would have saved dollars with the crap conversion rate we have at the moment )

2 weeks later
#1321 3 years ago
Quoted from Sticky:

Now, there are a couple issues. The multiball or ball lock area where with the metal piece that covers on the right sometimes jams. It will release one ball but not the second. I then have to manually open the glass and push the stuck ball through. Any idea how to fix this?

Also, how do I remove the factory high scores? Basically, I want the machine to only show the high scores that my friends and I hit. I got 53 million or so but it still is not good enough to get in the top 4 scores the machine shows.

It's possible there could be a switch error but if it works for the first ball release it should be fine for the rest, i'd check to see if the post is snagging on anything, is it bent at all? Although it doesn't drop down a massive amount it could be getting caught up somewhere. For the second question, as far as i know you can't reset or change the factory high score settings until you get better scores yourself and henceforth knock the factory ones out of the listing.

#1324 3 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

You can always pull the batteries out with the power off and that will do a full factory reset.

As far as i'm aware the machine will still revert to factory set high scores when you do this and unless i read the post incorrectly that's what he wanted to change.

#1334 3 years ago
Quoted from Sticky:

When it goes into that area there are these sort of two metal hooks hanging down into the ramp before the post I guess as sensors? The second ball seems to get snagged on one of those hooks

OK, those metal hooks are part of the switches, the first (closest to the front of the machine) and the third (back one) hang down into the wire form and the middle one sticks out from the side. These tell the machine that the balls are actually in the locks, so when all 3 switches are activated it confirms to go into multi ball mode. My machine will sometimes just release all 3 balls in one go, or, on occasion it will release one, the post will pop back up, and then release the next, etc. If your machine is releasing one ball and then doing nothing afterwards that would make me think that the one of the switches (possibly middle switch) isn't activating. Having said that though my understanding is that the machine would react by thinking there isn't enough balls to even start the multi ball process.

#1353 3 years ago

This is where it goes BUT it sure ain't shaped like the one on the Marco site, perhaps mine isn't original?


#1354 3 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

This is the only one you need. It mounts on the bottom on the backside of the cabinet below the glass holder. It keeps balls colliding in supercharger from flying over the back into the cab.

Now THAT'S the one though

#1388 3 years ago

Well here's the results of changing the regular stoplight for the Stern Harley Davidson one. Overall i really like the way it looks, the black "hoods" and the molding is far better than the stock version and the domed covers are a better look than the flat ones. For those wondering about the dimensions it is fairly similar in size (a tad wider and about the same height). It's even able to mount directly onto the existing bracket attached to the stock one BUT the interior metal part makes it sit up too high (fouls on the glass) so i had to rethink the process. By the way, the plug is the same but i think because of the way the stern ones are wired up it's not compatible (even after i changed the wiring to the plug), the best i could manage was to get all the leds to light up but not to flash like they should, they were just constantly on all the time. I think it's got something to do with the diodes but being not technically minded i decided to add the original light board (surely able to be changed i would think for peeps with the knowledge). I can detail how i went about the change if anyone is interested (and some pics), was basically a matter of making 2 small brackets to mount the existing board inside the new housing. While i had the glass off i added the smaller of the mezel mods cop cars and finally got fed up with the black shooter cover and added a chopped up supercharger decal, at least until someone comes up with a decent alternative






#1394 3 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Traffic light looks pretty good but I prefer the stock look. I think it would look better painted dark gray or black to hide the screws.

The mounting screws? or the fake screws in the molding. In my opinion it's that added detail of the molded screws that makes it look better than the original version.

#1398 3 years ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

I'm wanting to add a 12 volt LED strip, (Comet) to one of the flashers on the PF. Is there a particular flasher that ONLY fires when the magnets are energized on the turbocharger ramp?

Hmm got me thinking, the two play field flashers on either side (about halfway up under the green plastics) both flash when the supercharger is in action.

#1399 3 years ago

I have a feeling the ones i mentioned are not specific to the supercharger when it's going though.

#1407 3 years ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

I recently purchased the mountain mod for this pin

Where did you get hold of one of those??

3 weeks later
#1583 3 years ago
Quoted from mof:

$44 USD for the part
$44 for shipping


Could be worse, you could be over here in Oz Try about $130

#1595 3 years ago

If you can find someone selling the mountain mods anywhere better let the dude know he's gonna have to man the barricades and prepare for a Getaway owners avalanche

2 weeks later
#1630 3 years ago

Looks like someones covered up the inserts and then spray painted the playfield black (upper playfield), although bit hard to tell off the pics. NO IDEA where this came from, first time i've seen it and No Sir, i don't like that at all !!!!

1 month later
#1694 3 years ago
Quoted from mochaman:

Who sells the decal that goes on the turbocharger loop? I'm missing mine.

The pinsiders name was biglaw, really nice bloke too

#1697 3 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

I'm glad the pinball community is very open with this and very helpful, IDK, where my machines would be if it weren't for all the technical help I've gotten from Pinside

I can understand perhaps not sharing if it's a particular mod someones made (for any machine) from their own design and one they don't wish to make for others or for the general pinball market let's say but something like MustangPaul's creative use of LED lighting, etc, well, that's kinda open for interpretation and really anyone could use LED's in that way if so desired. It's sure not stepping on anyone's creative toes so to speak. I felt the same about sharing the "flamed" supercharger cover, it wasn't my initial idea either, it was "borrowed" from another pinsider who had his done with a Carbon effect and i just ran with the idea but put my own spin on it If anyone wishes to copy that they are welcome to it and i don't think it devalues anyone's machines by adding the same mods that others have. Pinside has been a wealth of ideas, shared knowledge and inspiration to me

#1701 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

I've always shared my mod ideas cuz I think they improve the look of the game and many I have posted I've posted as DIY

I've sure nicked a few of ya ideas MP

2 weeks later
#1729 3 years ago
Quoted from NinJaBooT:

I hope to have a magnet mod design to show for this title in coming days. We are just polishing up the concept art.

If it's as eye pleasing as the FT one i'll be first in line

#1734 3 years ago
Quoted from Sticky:

How often do you guys replace the batteries? Also, do I lose my high scores when I replace them?

I use NVRAM in all my machines and never have to worry about battery changes EVER again

#1736 3 years ago
Quoted from Sticky:

Ok I'm intrigued. What is NVRAM?


Read through this and it should be clearer than myself trying to explain it
There are other "brands" of NVRAM as well i might add, all do the same thing.

1 month later
#1809 3 years ago

If you are going to go tri colour then i would go Red, Orange, Green, There's NO yellow in traffic lights !!! Orange is basically amber after all.

2 weeks later
#1852 3 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

So I've noticed more than a few different Getaway coin doors in this thread. What's up with that? How many variations are there?

I bought a decal for my coin door but there isn't a spot on it for the decal. I'm prob going to chrome my coin door but I'm not in love with this style door. Any thoughts?

As far as i'm aware the choice of coin doors (the amount of slots, etc) was an optional choice when ordering a NIB Getaway and i've seen pretty much every type available on this and LOTS of other machines. The one in the first pic (2 slots with a gap in the center) is the same as i have on my machine, the single slot one is more reminiscent of a Gottlieb style door although it probably is Williams, the 3 slot is the same as i have on my Fish Tales and the last pic is the more modern version that you would see on later games (same one on my RFM machine). I've also got the 2 slot with gap on my BOP and am about to get it chromed, personal choice i think. Bare in mind the later style is practically useless to get chromed IF you want a perfect finish as they have many hexagonal bolt heads showing through on the outside (see left hand side near the attached panels and elsewhere), which would be a bloody nightmare to fill and cover. Most doors have some rivet heads showing to some degree and ANY blemish in the metal will show when chromed !! Also bare in mind that most coin doors have some parts in metal and some parts in diecast, for example, the 2 slot with gap in the middle on my BOP has a metal door with a metal coin return flap, the outside frame is diecast as is the coin slot surround and the return slot surround. Chroming diecast is more complex than straight metal but more to the point Extra Cost overall.

1 week later
#1883 3 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

I hear ya. That's why I just bought this coin door from Marco and I'm having it chromed by Mike and I'll just keep the original and put it aside

That's exactly the one i was talking about that will require extra work to look good in chrome, has a LOT of rivet/bolt heads showing. I bought one a while back to do the same with for my BOP but have changed my mind and gone with the original one (2 slots with a gap in the middle), far less metal work involved to get a smoooooth finish !

1 week later
#1995 3 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Haha ah man that hurts. The damn things have been stuck in NY for almost ten days now. Is this shit normal?!?

I've had the same thing happen with parts coming the other way Mind you, only took 4 days to go from Melbourne to New York, the hold up is most definitely at bloody customs, gawwwdd that's annoying !! With all the scans and stuff they do these days you'd think it wouldn't be hard to work out it's only decals

1 week later
#2015 3 years ago
Quoted from Tmezel:

Coming soon, the U-turn sticker for the metal piece on the upper left at diverter ramp.

My machine never had a sticker in that spot when i bought it, was that a normal item on Getaways NIB?

#2040 3 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Why do the flex wires suck?

The socket tends to flop around inside the bumper body somewhat and means the led wont always be centralized, solid wire one's sit in better

#2044 3 years ago

I prefer these myself http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3624
Britecaps EVO, fully adjustable and react to pop bumpers going off, i've got a set of these on my FT and they look awesome. Also just bought some purple ones with the Ice cap to go under the mini playfield on my BOP Have a look at the pics, underneath there is the adjuster to turn on/off flash react and they push straight onto the 555 socket

#2047 3 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

I'm gonna try them with their new ICE caps. It prob won't look as good with the game turned off but I dig the colors with it turned on.

I chose the Ice Cap version particularly for my BOP cause that diffused light will suit a lot better under the mini playfield. Doesn't matter if the Ice Cap doesn't suit your needs for The Getaway, you should be able to use any style cap really

#2052 3 years ago
Quoted from urbanledge:

They have Leds on the top and bottom.
They also have optional flashers.

YUP and so do the Britecaps, 24 on top around the outside, 6 in the center as "react flash" and 10 underneath!!

#2069 3 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Also, these britecaps seem to get very hot when powered on. Lots of LED lights so that does make sense. Is that normal?

Thanks for posting pics of the ice caps lit up, makes me feel i made the right choice for wanting to add them to my BOP
The Britecaps on my FT don't seem to get that warm but i'll do a comparison test so to speak and leave the machine on for a few hours and check them then. I'll shall get back to you

#2075 3 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

I feel like my yellow britecap looks more orange than yellow. Comet's yellow is def a yellow. Hmmm

If it's on your Getaway, don't you want it orange/amber?
Anyway, getting back to the heat question. I left my FT turned on for nearly 8 hours, the bumper caps were fairly warm but i wouldn't go as far as calling it Hot, mind you, i have mine turned up to MAX on the dial too. You can always back the brightness off somewhat with those Britecaps, one of the things i really like about them. I doubt it would become an issue. If you had another problem (short) causing the heat they would burn out real quick !!

#2098 3 years ago

Ummmmm Target Decals?....shhhhh stop encouraging Grinder

#2123 3 years ago
Quoted from steve1515:

I meant to post these a while back, but forgot...
I had an issue where my stoplight connector would vibrate out and unplug itself. I wanted to have a locking IDC connector on the board, but due do it only having copper on one side of the board, I couldn't do that with the original. So, I decided to recreate it to allow for a locking connector. Since I've done this, it never vibrates out. It came out pretty nice.

Wouldn't be making some up for sale by any chance?? I could use another board

#2126 3 years ago
Quoted from steve1515:

I could if people wanted these. It would probably be the 2nd week of May before I could ship, but I think I could do them for $25 + s/h (Includes board with diodes and locking header soldered on -- no lamp sockets or bulbs). Would you still like one? Is anyone else interested?

I am most DEFINITELY in for 1 YES TY!!!

#2211 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Has anyone every inventoried or had access to a list of hardware used on the playfield (i.e. screws, nuts, washers, etc.

Not to my knowledge NO, but you also have to bare in mind that over the years since these machines came from the factory people have lost/changed screws etc, and not always used the correct size. Some sizes may have changed due to the holes being flogged out so a larger screw has been used. I've seen some bloody dodgy examples of things being used for the original part in some of the machines i've had (pretty sure most peeps have too).

#2239 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Hmm, while the comment may be a passive trolling attempt

I could be wrong but i read it as a typo and thought he meant Dicey

#2241 3 years ago

For my 2 cents worth though, lol. Although i do like the look of the shifter knob mod (ahmmm that sounds kinda rude ) , if i was going to add that to my machine i would prefer to make up/ have made up a new shaft (as is mentioned in the instructions) for these 2 reasons >> A) using the original shaft and destroying the plastic part is completely NON reversible and B) those things just aren't available any more (at least not as far as i know).

#2244 3 years ago

Ya haven't done this yet Grinder


#2246 3 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

I plan to use actual lighter fluid and real flames on mine

LMAO and bring out the marshmellows on a stick too.

#2264 3 years ago

I've found a shifter knob that i think will fit in well with some of the other parts i've got on my machine, i'll post more after i've ordered and received it. I took my original off to have a good look at it and i reckon i can make up a new shaft with very little effort from either stainless or chrome rod. There's no need to hack off the original IMHO, just have another shaft and then swap it over to whatever style knob you want to use. If anyone is a bit on the interested side as regards changing their own machine shifter over to an LED Knob style then i can probably supply the shaft and would only need to know the screw size for the knob. Let me get mine sorted first and then if there's any interest i'll give out more details
You know, this is partly your fault Grinder

#2283 3 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

I don't know if I could/should part with the Getaway.

It's a keeper in my collection BUT having said that i always thought i'd never let go of my STTNG, loved that game even if it was a difficult machine to play and could be a right pain in the arse if it was playing up technically. It went out the door for a nice price and i never thought twice after it went either (which surprised me to be honest).

#2298 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Has anyone personally performed paint repairs on their play area? There is some regular wear and tear on my newly acquired machine, but there are also some very bad/noticeable paint chips around the flipper area. I've searched around and also been given some good advice on how to treat the area to prevent further damage, but I possibly wanted to actually "repair" the area (i.e. paint it as close to original as possible). Not really sure where to start, what kind of paint to use, best colors to use, etc. Any first had experience/advice with photos of results is greatly appreciated.

I haven't myself but i would advise getting someone who is well practiced in colour matching to do it. To touch up around the area in the pic is 3 different colours. On top of that, just painting that spot won't last long very long in such a high traffic ball area, it would need some sort of clear coat to seal it. For the plastic piece you are asking about, there is a metal version you can buy which in my opinion is a better way to go (you really don't see much of that part anyway once the front plastic is attached). Check out Pinbits, i think they still sell them.

#2323 3 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

I like it but I'm wondering if I'd like clear star posts with a white post light more

Here's what they look like in a clear post with white LED'S


#2327 3 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Well damn, I was just going to use one 10 led strip for each side

Better off with several smaller strips, bare in mind that both side large green plastics have a decent sized holes in them and one long strip will show some leds through the holes (depending on viewing angle of course).

#2346 3 years ago

Finally got around to getting the shifter knob attached. It took about an hours work to make a new shaft on the lathe using 5/8th stainless steel rod, the threaded end is 3/8th and also had to make a tool to cut the groove for the circlip. I chose this particular one cause it has a flames pattern on the knob which fits in well with the Hydrodipped flames supercharger cover. There is 6 red LED'S inside that has a 4 position switch, so random pattern, all flashing, always on and off. I'd added some red LED flipper buttons recently so going with that particular coloured LED seemed the best way to go (also got the red LED start key mod from Mezelmods). On the whole the colours all fit well with the rest of the machine. If anyone is interested in a new shifter shaft so they can add their own style knob then just PM me. I will only need to know what size threaded end you wish to have, and i will mention that most of these after market car knobs come with several different sized plastic inserts (to screw onto a gear shift shaft) so i would recommend using the larger size insert first cause you can always cut the thread down further if it ever wears out (unlikely really). Price? , i'm not exactly sure about, even at half tradies rates (usually about $90 or more an hour in OZ) it will probably seem too expensive. If these were pumped out on a CNC machine in bulk amounts it would cost bugger all but i'm only thinking of doing a few if required. I'll say about $50 Aus dollars plus postage ( about $37 US) but i could have my arm twisted a bit




#2348 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Nice job on that shaft. With all that red on you game all your missing are my red leg Light-Ups.

LOL, on the sell again MP
I have considered those i must admit and i'm not shy when it comes to adding LED's/ Mods but lately i've been wondering just how far one can go with using LED'S before it becomes critical mass. I don't mean overloading the system as such, more the thought that one's machine ends up looking like one of those Indian trucks with all the murals/lights/glitter/figurines/etc

#2352 3 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

I am interested in a new shaft

No worries, PM me and we'll work something out . I just remembered that i meant to tell you that you could reinstate the original handle by the way. I was looking at the "Bat Style" joystick handles on one of my arcade machines and realised they are virtually identical in size and shape to the original Getaway handle. The one's i'm thinking of are Sanwa brand. Off the top of my head i'm unsure what the thread size is but won't be hard to work out. I'll check one out tomorrow......errmmm, later today after work and i'll let you know.

#2353 3 years ago
Quoted from Stones:

Got this mod installed after coming home from TPF.....such a cool mod.

Yeah i love the key mod, it's a nice touch to the game !!

#2361 3 years ago
Quoted from Mancave:

I was looking at the "Bat Style" joystick handles on one of my arcade machines and realised they are virtually identical in size and shape to the original Getaway handle.

Hey Grinder, these are the ones i mentioned, same height as the original Getaway handle but not quite the diameter, although it would still pass scrutiny from most people. It will also fit in snug to the shaft as the inside diameter is correct. If you were looking to have an original handle spare for your machine then this might be the best option.


#2450 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Where did you get your Lambo & Cruiser? What scale are they (or size)?

You beat me to it, i was just about to reply, LOL The Lambo was bought on ebay from a guy in Germany and is 1:43 scale. The police cars are from Mezel Mods, larger one is at the back next to the supercharger and the smaller version is just above the 3 targets on the left. From memory the larger cop car is 1:32 and the smaller one is 1:64. The Lambo was a Lamborghini Diablo Solido diecast model (was the closest match to the one on the translite) and i added my own 3 LED white 12 volt strip inside it which is wired into one of the flashers, can't remember exactly which one i'll need to have another look. The guy i bought the Lambo off is still selling items on Fleabay although i'm not sure if he has the same model still, dudes got a LOT of stuff listed. PM me and i'll let you know the guys ebay seller name and you can then do a seller search if your looking for one of the same. You'll be able to message him and find out if he has another for sale.

#2472 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Any ideas here would be greatly appreciated

Did you hold in the high power cutoff switch when you were testing? The white ones just inside the coin door on the left?

#2476 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

None of the flashers work at all in test mode or in game play.

Perhaps a fuse? I think F111 on the driver board is for the flasher secondary circuit (from memory), i went to look it up on my manual and can't find the bloody thing

#2477 3 years ago
Quoted from pindan3:

Also I tried to hook up the Blue flasher mod...but it freaks the game out when activated

I have the blue flasher mod on my machine and never had any issues in all the time i've had it hooked up, hmmmmm, not sure about that one

#2482 3 years ago
Quoted from pindan3:

Trying to describe the flasher and mod issue is a bit confusing here....I just know when the mod is hooked up it makes the red light on top try to work constantly, like...(yea the like word" lol...).everytime you hit a pop bumper or a sling the topper slightly flashes with it. And if I put a normal flasher in the back box ( where the 5 go ) it will get real bright and make a coil fire where the donut shop mod is

Must admit i've never heard of this happening before. When a coil activates (pop bumper, sling) it makes the mars lamp temporarily flash? I doubt that the actual mod would be causing this issue but some quick questions if i may. Are these the blue flasher mods from Mezel mods (1 either side of the mars lamp) we are talking about? Were the flashers already attached when you got the machine or you attached them yourself, did you follow the instructions provided to the letter? I could show a pic from my machine how it's all wired in but i also have 2 cop cars attached to the mars lamp circuit so it has a double splitter in the wiring, i don't want to confuse the issue. This has got me stumped i must say, as far as i know the mars lamp isn't directly connected to the coil circuit. Is there any effect when you hit the flipper buttons?

#2498 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Attached is my LED bulb chart that I compiled to perform my conversion.

A very handy list for others in this thread and the ones yet to join. Thanks, very well done

#2525 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Did you or have you considered boring a hold the length of the shaft so you can wire the batteries? I have this mod, and like it but it seems like someone in the family forgets to turn off the light every couple of days, so I am going through batteries like crazy. I did find, however, that instead of stacking two thin lithium batteries to power it you can just use one thicker battery. I forget the exact model I am using, but can look when I get home if anyone is interested.

The short answer is NO. The reason being is that the opposite end to the knob has a hole already for a spring and what is, more or less, a shooter tip in it so the handle will always spring back to neutral position. The other end is a thread so it's not possible to drill a hole from that end. A very skilled machinist could possible make a hole near the already drilled end for the exit of the wires BUT you still have the issue of hiding the wires that would come from the LED knob. It's a nice idea and could potentially do away with the need for batteries and just wire the LED's into the GI circuit but WAYYYYY beyond my skills

#2532 3 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

I used a high tack velcro for mine. One side of the velcro on the plastic and the other on the bottom of the car.

Yup, i used the same method, works well

#2565 3 years ago
Quoted from jdb9294:

Any thoughts on why the machine would of just reset?

If the machine resets at any time during the game it's most always due to the watchdog circuit tripping, so it has dropped too far below the 5 volt. Usual fix is to rebuild the section on the driver board (new caps, etc). I'm pretty sure this has been explained somewhere back in the pages of this thread.

#2567 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Okay, so here are pics of my flippers.

For my money, if you have used identical rebuild kits in both then it MUST be down to the stop bracket upright OR the bracket end the coil is attached to. Do either ends look like they are bent inwards? this would potentially reduce the amount of throw in the coil and hence the travel in the flipper. It's the only feasible explanation left

#2570 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

While these are obviously not cut as cleanly as the ones you buy, they are very low cost and good enough for my taste. If you take your time and do a good job, in life-sized view you really don't notice the imperfections of the cut.

These look quite good but may i suggest coating them on the print side with some mylar cause photo paper marks very easily and also loses the pigment over time due to bending, etc. All those ball hits are gonna hurt

#2589 2 years ago

16 loops for me but my machine is missing the double star post

#2592 2 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

That's cheating!!

I prefer the idea it's stretching the truth

2 weeks later
#2674 2 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Let's say I damage or otherwise lose a metal playfield piece. What are my options? I've looked but is there a site that carries replacement playfield like curved ball guides?

There are some ball guides still available for most later machines, it varies depending upon machine. Marco's have some but not all. If it's a matter of a busted tab that a screw goes though then you can fix that by silver soldering. Anything is possible to be repaired when you are talking about metal parts. It's also possible you could get most, if not all ball guides remade from scratch but you would need one to copy it of course.

1 week later
#2699 2 years ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Anyone local want some inexpensive Getaway wall art?

That's actually not too bad

1 week later
#2732 2 years ago

I would turn off the power and check the game rom chip to see if it's seated properly, perhaps just give it a slight push in (don't overdo it). Going off your vid, the GI seems to be flickering as well. I doubt it's just the DMD that's stuffed up BUT try re-seating the ribbon cable to the DMD while you have the power off as well, see what happens. Every now and then my FT display goes wacko and the ribbon cable connector is always the culprit (probably needs replacing).

#2738 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

What do you guys think of the rivets? Thanks!

Yeah, that's normal. The bottom rivet is recessed so the ball flying round the supercharger doesn't bounce off it weirdly (also would slow it down). I bought a brand new assembly a while back and it looks exactly the same.

#2741 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Wow thanks! You have saved me some money as I was about to buy a new one! So the ball doesn't hit the top rivet?

No, there's enough clearance to miss it, as far as i know. If the supercharger is slow it will be another reason. The ball could be hitting something else. Read back through the posts on this thread (yeah i know, LOT of pages ) but from memory this issue has been brought up a few times, and the remedies (my memory for that part is sketchy )
I had an issue with my original one ages ago but that was due to one of the 2 pressed rivets that hold the left side of the assembly to the main ring section, one rivet had snapped off completely and basically it was sagging at the joint (where it enters the magnet portion). This made the supercharger go slow as well, BUT i doubt that will be your problem, i've not heard of that happening to anyone else in this club.......so far !

1 week later
#2848 2 years ago

I realise this is a bit late "at the moment" but i can not stress ENOUGH the point that if you are not overly confident on repairs, etc, ALWAYS take lots of pictures before taking ANYTHING apart on a machine. Go even further than that, LABEL every plug that you disconnect (use a piece of masking tape and write on both male and female sides of the plug, even if you just number the plugs as 1-1, 2-2 etc etc). Whilst it is true that a lot of plugs are specific and in the case of the plugs in the back box a lot only plug one way there are always plugs used that are exactly the same size and plug the same way. Being anal about labelling and picture taking may seem extreme but it can help immensely down the track, especially if you get distracted, inbetween work, whatever!!

1 week later
#2947 2 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

either the upper right or lower right flipper gets stuck in the up position

You've probably already looked at this but have you checked out the switch inside the cab for the flipper button, are the tabs bent? and contacting when they shouldn't be?

#2949 2 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

I thought about that but will give it a strong look when I get home. Truth is only the right side is having this issue so maybe it's as simple as the switch being the issue

Yeah it's only a thought but it may be just on that borderline point of contact where it might activate sometimes and not others. I've sure had that issue on my JD, little bit different of course cause that's an opto thing, but the idea is still the same

#2954 2 years ago

Sure does look twisted !!! Is it close to touching? if so that's what i was thinking may be the issue.

3 weeks later
#3011 2 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

To each his own I guess, and i'm a big believer in mylar, it lasts MUCH longer and is more durable than clearcoat... Your playfield was Diamond Plated. look at it now!

I agree it's each to his own BUT to be fair, those diamond coat playfield machines have mostly all been used on site and over the years have had literally thousand's of plays. Mylar is durable, yes, BUT it's also got a nasty habit of lifting/bubbling over time. The favourable time difference between the clear coat wearing out and the first lifting of mylar is in my opinion on clear coats side. If it comes down to having a decent clear coat as opposed to using mylar across the whole playfield then i prefer the former.

1 week later
#3033 2 years ago

They have come up pretty good Mr T I'm still surprised at just how much wear there was around those stoplight inserts though, must have copped a flogging in the past, makes you wonder just how many plays that particular play field/machine had out in the wild.

#3035 2 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

and how often they changed the balls and waxed it.

Too True MP and my guess is NEVER waxed and the balls were as rusty as my ........

#3036 2 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

and how often they changed the balls and waxed it.

Too True MP and my guess is NEVER waxed and the balls were as rusty as my ........

ARGGGHHHH double post, bloody tricky mouse button FFS!!!!

#3038 2 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Must be late where you are

YUP, 2am and the Bourbons have been going down the hatch all too well, lol

2 weeks later
#3079 2 years ago
Quoted from n1teowl:

I'm having an opto problem that I'm hoping someone can help with. I moved my Getaway from the garage to the house and now the optos are not working. I get an error that says that I need to check Opto1, Opto 2, Opto 3...basically all of the optos. I checked the opto board and see that none of the LED lights are on. Should they be? Any ideas on what to try next? As a side note, some of my GI is out now, too. A seemingly random string of GI lights, e.g. top left sling, bottom right sling, bottom pop bumper. Thanks in advance for any help.

Check ALL the relevant plug connectors for a start, i haven't got my manual at the moment so i can't tell you which ones sorry. Loose plugs are a common thing to happen after a machine move especially if you've had the back box down.

1 week later
#3099 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

J206 and J208 do not have any pins or connections to them

These are not used on The Getaway machine as far as i know. Sure not used on my machine although my board does have pins at those locations.

#3132 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Not really a fan of the mountain myself, but I do like the spot light I put under my mountain plastic - really lights up that dark section of the table.

Having the mountain hides the spotlight though and doesn't obstruct the light from it, double win

#3163 2 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

Y'all think 2 people can load it? I may have to drive solo. I have a carpeted moving dolly. Don't have a refrigerator hand truck tho.

2 people can move these machines!. You might need to move in short distances, depends on the people lifting. My bro and i moved a STTNG machine on one occasion and an RFM another time, BOTH of those machines are complete lard arses , mind you, my bro is built like a brick shithouse, lol. Getaway isn't as chubby as those two so you should be ok. If you decide to get more machines (most likely as it tis' a sickness ) it's a great idea to buy yourself a proper pinball dolley.

#3232 2 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Hey not to worry, all the lingo takes a while to learn

Could have been worse, could have been in Aussie dialect

1 week later
#3493 2 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

i bought 7 in my first 10 months.

I guess a loan of some cash foldies is out of the question (aka MONEY)

#3526 2 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Canned air works MUCH better (the kind with the straw so you can aim it), and is quicker, more thorough because air gets into every crevasse, and you dont need to remove any lamp boards or sockets.

While this is true, using compressed air will actually spread that dust EVERYWHERE, onto the light boards, coils, anything not even remotely close by including into the cabinet. You are much better off using Q Tips with alcohol (or Windex) and going over the inserts at least twice. For those boards you have to remove it's no big deal and doing it twice (even 3 times if you feel the need) it doesn't add that much extra time. I'd rather do it right the first time and remove that dust forever (yeah ok, not exactly forever but it will take many years to accumulate again). I personally just think you make more work for yourself spraying air around and shifting that dust onto other areas albeit in thinner coats than just getting rid of it in one go......rant over in 5,4,3,2,1. ok done now

#3532 2 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

I respect your opinion

So do i and i wasn't suggesting you go apeshit with the air either BUT by it's very nature it spreads, even under minute air flow!

#3615 2 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

It's not a ram air scoop, it's a Blower scoop. I'd like to have mine moded, take the flashers off, put a real working set of butterflies on that would open up when the ball is going around and when open THEN have a constant red glow behind the open butterflies. Now THAT would be cool. Can someone do that for me?

Hmmmmm Not impossible to do i'm

#3620 2 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

OH NO!!! I've created a MONSTER. Go get-um boy.

Leave it with me, i've got some ideas and a spare charger assembly plastic.

#3623 2 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Oh this is gonna be interesting cuz there isn't much room in there to make this work.

Agreed, messaged you, bounce some ideas arooond

#3702 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

creating the piece out of Lexan

You can buy an after market metal sign piece, i have one on my machine, mounts the same way and the outer plastic attaches the same way as well. It wouldn't be too hard to make one out of alloy if you have some skill in that area and you could always attach a decal to the metal piece. One great advantage, the metal support will NEVER break Just a thought!

1 week later
#3839 2 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Then I spliced into the first red flasher of the 3 on the sc

May have to redo that MP if the latest Co-project works out (i'm pretty bloody confident )

#3955 2 years ago

I have mine at 90% but i am a complete daredevil .................
Ohhhh Cmonnnnnn humour in pinball is a MUST!!

#3977 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I have mine an -6.5, so that I never have to worry about ball drains or even using the flippers.

That reminds me of when i had my very first pin >> I was about 14 at the the time and had won a Stern Wild Fyre in a high scores competition (was held over 2 weeks across 10 machines, pinballs and arcade machines). After i'd had the machine a few months and teenage boredom had settled in i used a bunch of my mom's encyclopedia brittanica's under the front legs and removed the plum bob tilt. It was set at just the right height that the ball would EVER so slowly meander back to the drain. Moonball it was renamed, for a teen it was bloody hilarious to play and watch

#4027 2 years ago
Quoted from grumpy712:

Finally got some time on my hands to do some Mods

Black Supercharger cover? interesting

#4102 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I am still contemplating what process I will take, but all of this information has been great.

It's all up to you chap If you want a quicker process and not too finicky about the final result then do it the less anal way. If you're like me and want it done right the first time (fully anal) then i would advise bare wood, primer, sand smooth, more primer, get a NICE finish, FULL black top coat everywhere, sand back, apply more black and make sure there is no boogies in the final coat, THEN apply the decals.

#4117 2 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

ball guides chromed

Really?, you know that the stainless steel ball guides can be polished to a mirror finish don't you?
I'm not criticizing, just wondering!

#4179 2 years ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Have any of you tried painting it? Just need some ideas to bring this back to looking almost new again.

OR you could get it Hydrocoated if you want to try something different There is many types of patterns, etc to choose from.

Hydrocoated supercharger cover (resized).jpg

1 week later
#4352 2 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

Lamborghini Countach

You know, i reckon it's a Diablo

#4385 2 years ago
Quoted from ajnin:

Has anyone on this site got one of these ? I am super keen but would like to talk to someone who purchased one Getaway or other in the past

Yeah i bought one from the first run and they are AWESOME in my eyes, see the pics and post here >>>

I do want to say this though, i have seen comments about repro playfields, not just The Getaway one's. It's a very subjective topic and people have different expectations and are also very different in their judgements. Let's put it in a question format!
Q1. Are repro's as good or accurate to the originals? A1. Many original playfields came out of the factory with faults!
Q2. How tough was Diamond Coat? A2. Clear coating is probably more advanced than it was back in 91/92!
Q3. Do i really know what i'm talking about? A3. Probably not BUT i was really happy with my repro playfield (leads me back to the subjective comment)

1 week later
#4446 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I've had a great experience with my 13 year old son working and playing together with my Getaway (first pin for me, ever). In addition to spending time together, we give each other a hard time about who's better, do a little trash talking, then of course dad has to show him who the pinball boss is (well, most of the time). Anything that brings a family together and builds those relationships is a good thing. I'm sure that your grandson will remember this for the rest of his life, and probably tell his friends and family long after we're all gone about how he loved his grandpa, and how special this Christmas was for him.

LIKE !!!!! This is what's great about the hobby, the passion, the sharing, the stuff ups, the machine breakdowns, the fixing/rebuilds. It's great having fellow pinheads online you can share stories, learn off and copy their ideas BUT to be able to pass on to the next generation that same love of the steel ball mania, DUDE, that shit is priceless

#4459 2 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Before and after the game locks up

Try reseating the ribbon cable from the MPU, perhaps check all fuses. Going off the pics the MPU is not booting properly so it could be one of the other boards with an issue that is causing the MPU to not boot up. If you disconnect the ribbon cable from the MPU that connects up with the other boards (NOT including the driver board of course, otherwise MPU is not powered), what happens? Still no boot?

#4461 2 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

And if I can embarrassingly admit, I can't tell a MPU board from the sound board from a hole in the wall.

OK MPU board is the bottom left (the main brain of the whole back box). Isolate the MPU board from all the other boards by disconnecting the upper ribbon cable. The VERY short ribbon cable that goes to the lower right board (Driver board) you need to keep connected otherwise, no power, no work What happens?

#4464 2 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Well I have two upper ribbons cables here. Disconnect one or both?

BOTH. Sorry, i should have mentioned that. Upper left links MPU (or CPU if you like) to the Fliptronics board then to the Audio board and ends at the DMD controller board. Upper right cable goes straight to the DMD controller board. By removing these cables from the MPU board you isolate the MPU from the other boards. If the machine boots up you know that the MPU board is still ok. In this case start adding boards back to the link, so >>> Fliptronics board then if still good >>> then Audio board, etc. Obviously the machine won't work with all boards connected BUT it will give you an idea which board might be causing a problem. It may be that all the boards are fine and one of the ribbon cables has come to the end of it's days too, this does happen, especially if they are the original ribbon cables.

#4467 2 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Does Marco supply an entire ribbon kit for the game?

They probably do, can also get a complete set from K's Arcade also. When you say the GI locks up what do you mean? When all the boards were still connected, was the DMD displaying anything?

#4470 2 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

With all the ribbons connected the game usually boots up with everything (display and all playfield lights) working but eventually, the display freezes and so do the playfield lights.

OK, very difficult to say exactly the cause. It could be either the MPU, a ribbon cable (most likely the main one that links most of the boards) and perhaps one of the other boards that is dragging the system down. You can eliminate the DMD itself as the problem, for my money it leans towards the MPU board. It's bloody late here (nearly 4am) and i've had a big day of eating too much and the usual Xmas alcohol cheer so not thinking completely straight.

#4484 2 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Here's a video showing the leds both before and after the game locks up. It's a long video so just scroll to around the 1:30 or 1:40 mark to see it change

After looking at this vid i'm still on the MPU or Ribbon Cable train. It could be a failing cap issue BUT if the power dropped you would have nothing going on at all. When your machine is freezing there is still LED's lit here and there on the play field and also D20 goes off and D21 stays lit. Upon turn on the 3 LED'S behave normally and there is no sound board error code beeps. If you have already booted the machine with the MPU board isolated from all the other boards except the driver board and the same thing is still occurring it must be either something failing on the MPU or a power issue from the Driver board (possibility of a problem with the short ribbon cable connecting these two). I'm not sure what happens when the square Asic chip fails, not had one go on my machines but i doubt it's the game rom chip.

#4498 2 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Hey guys I need some BIG help finding a part. I'm looking for the nylon tip that goes into the end of the shifter lever. Mine grew legs and is now hiding. The manual only gives the entire part number 20-9710 with no breakdown. I've searched Marco and PBL with no success.

Have you still got the spring that sits behind it MP? the nylon part wouldn't be hard to copy i would think. I've got my shifter off my machine at the moment so i'll have a suss of the nylon part and see if i can possibly find an alternative Errrmmm hope you're not in a hurry

#4500 2 years ago

Aussie slang for "check it out" I'll have a measure of it a bit later and get back you. Cleaning the cave at the moment for the new years eve pin and pool comp party

#4502 2 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

OK. You guys and your slang

Righto mate, i've had a suss and a darn good squiz and i reckon it to be almost bang on 8mm diameter rod at an overall length of 33mm (to the middle of the rounded off tip). Don't think it will matter too much how rounded it is as long as the tip isn't squared off it will work fine. If you can't find anything to suit i might just have some rod that size diameter BUT the 64 million dollar question is....."Where did i bloody put it? " Sorry about the metric measurements mate

#4511 2 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

I bought a complete ribbon set. It should arrive soon so we'll see if that helps.

Did you check over the header pins on J210 like Grumpy suggested. I reviewed the comments i made and realised i mentioned the small ribbon cable being the CPU power connector which of course it isn't. If the new ribbon cable set doesn't fix the issue it's not a waste of money. Those cables DO go bad over time and a lot of machines still have the originals in place. On my recent JD project i had to replace half of the RC's as the originals were stuffed. Before the new set turns up, try disconnecting ALL ribbon cables to the CPU and power up. If it still does the same thing then it quite likely is J210 cause if it was a chip issue i don't think it would boot initially, it would just sit and tater (As in act like a spud and do bugger all ) (Another one for you MP )

2 weeks later
#4680 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I am almost out of Mylar

Just a suggestion, it would be cheaper to just use clear contact (book covering). It will do the same job and it's not like the mylar is needed to guard against ball hits. I do like the design but i still prefer the plastic 3D style, i'm just an old stuck in the mud fuddy duddy like that

#4684 2 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Yup you sure are.

Takes one to know one

#4723 2 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Ok so again, where does one find the original cover for the ball lock

Definitely could be made from some stainless, there's really not a lot to the plate to create, as long as the angle's are correct pretty much all good.

#4731 2 years ago
Quoted from DonutHeaven:

Thanks for any info you can provide

Posted this on your thread also
If you type these numbers >>> 5647-12073-33 into the search box on http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au website, think you'll find that is the switch you are looking for Ohhhhh and remember prices are in Aus dollars NOT US money so not as pricey as you may think!! ALSO, don't think you guys pay the GST added price like we do so cheaper again.

#4734 2 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Yeah you guys get screwed.

We're at the bottom of the world ya know mate I guess it's how they justify petrol prices over here if you're out in the boonies miles away from the cities, mind you, the next town further away can be cheaper Go Figure

#4747 2 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

It could be a fuse

My immediate thought is also a fuse

#4749 2 years ago
Quoted from red-line:

Thanks for the reply! like I said, I tried switching fuses around, f103-f105 (the lamp is f103, the plunger is f104)

You said that the mars lamp motor is out (F103) and the plunger (F104) and you swapped the fuses between the 2......BUT if both fuses are blown that won't help you. As Tilt said, test both with a multi meter or if you have some 3A SB fuses, just change them over and see what happens. If it's a short somewhere you only risk blowing the fuses again.

#4751 2 years ago
Quoted from red-line:

Nah, I switched 3 of them, I put f105 in one of those slots

As for the motor issue (if it's not fuse related) is to remove the motor from the housing and test with a 12 volt power source to see if the motor works. If it does then it's not getting power from the machine >> leads you back to the driver board.
For the plunger, as Tilt mentioned, check the switch in switch test mode, possible diode leg broken off.

#4771 2 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

I'm not sure how you can really test if the motor is working

I have heard that sometimes the shaft can get slightly bent over time so it ends up with a tight spot on the mesh of the gears. It's a normal 12V motor so it will have a positive tab and a negative tab. Remove the motor from the assembly and hook up to a 12 Volt battery, won't matter if you have the pos/neg wires on the wrong tabs, it won't burn out, just spin in the opposite direction. At least this test will tell you for sure if the motor has died. If the motor works it will be either a binding issue with the gears or a power issue.

#4780 2 years ago
Quoted from 0geist0:

Isn't it a 12 volt AC motor?

To be honest, the manual doesn't specify and there's nothing identifying AC on the motor casing. I don't see why it would be AC? Most 12V lines in pinball machines are DC that i know of.

#4782 2 years ago
Quoted from 0geist0:

If it was DC it would have one red wire and one black wire.
I just went through this with my HS2
My beacon was missing so I got one that was DC and had to put a bridge rectifier in line to convert the current.

Fair enough. So how does red-line go about testing his motor to see if it still works?

#4784 2 years ago
Quoted from 0geist0:

If it was DC it would have one red wire and one black wire

Although i've seen many DC powered items that have had various combo's of wire colour (Red, Green) (Black, White) (Yellow,Black) and also (Red,Red) you are correct, the motor is 12VAC. Just did some research.
By the way, these motors are still available from marco's, although a repro "beefed up" version supposedly. Handy to know if Red's motor is cactus. Seems testing AC motors is an intriguing process

#4801 2 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

Check pins J134 on the driver board? What colors are the wire? Is that wire cut and just laying there?

Nahhh couldn't be that one, that uses the smaller pins and more of them. The only one i could find that looks the same is J106 on the driver board and the wire should be red/white....looks orange in the pic, but cameras do weird shit with colours though depending on the light.

#4803 2 years ago
Quoted from Mancave:

J106 on the driver board

Just looked again, can't be that one either as the wire is on the wrong pin. J106 the wire goes to the single pin other side of the key. I can't spot any other plugs that have 4 pins and a key with that colour wire in the backbox......Random floater????

#4860 2 years ago
Quoted from Tmezel:

We have been working on this for the last couple on months. Its almost ready for its reveal.

Hmmmmm is it a bird?, is it a plane?....

1 week later
#4998 2 years ago
Quoted from SuperPinball:

crap, the one I got is 1:18. That thing will cover half the playfield.

You could use it as a topper, like i did with a 57 Chev cop car for my WhoDunnit Pin (as pictured in my user pic) but of course that would mean removing the mars lamp. A model car that big would have ample room for internal flasher strips mind you. Put it this way, your machine would be unique I enjoy seeing what people do to their own machines, that's what makes it for me, the individuality that defeats "sameness"

#4999 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I believe that mine is a 1/32 scale as a point of reference.

That looks about correct Mr T, it's bigger than the one on my machine, that was about 1/43.

#5067 2 years ago
Quoted from arolden:

How do I adjust this so the ball returns to the right flipper?

I would adjust the top right flipper so it sticks out a little more into the playfield, you shouldn't need to adjust it much at all really. In other words, loosen the nut that clamps the flipper rod underneath until you can move the flipper bat manually and adjust the bat outwards somewhat. By doing this it will make the ball go further over to the left but you may need a few goes to get it correct.

1 week later
#5183 2 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Well I bought the super lube. It'll be here Wednesday. I'll take the shifter apart then too. I have no clue how to increase the tension though...

All you need to do is put some packing in behind the spring Superbee mentioned, a piece of plastic rod the same diameter as the white plastic tip would work fine, anything that will fit inside the end of the shaft but big enough to not go inside the spring

#5226 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I printed this on high quality Epson paper (not photo stock since paper needs to be thin)

I used your car image from the apron shooter cover for my reject inserts and you can use photo paper for this

#5250 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Here is what I settled on with my 2 coin return door (both are B&W versions). Again, I backlight with red frosted dome LEDs. Would love to see pics from others who use the inserts with their lighting setup.

Mine looks the same, although i have 2 cars instead and have 2 white led's behind. I can't take a picture of them lit cause the driver board is out being repaired at the moment.

2 weeks later
#5499 2 years ago

I've got 2 complete 2nd hand sets, no need to knock yourself out bidding

1 week later
#5615 2 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

I would rather see an entirely new High Speed 3 over a Getaway reissue.

Agreed but i doubt it would happen.

1 week later
#5711 2 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

I, for one, enjoyed theonlyest comments. He helped me through some issues earlier. He may be opinionated, but who isn't. He has the knowledge to back up his thoughts. I will miss him here.

I can agree to disagree There are a lot of people in this thread (and all other machine club threads) that have extensive, and more importantly, machine specific knowledge that are extremely helpful. There comes a point when "opinionated" crosses the boundary into what some may call arrogance, or worse, veiled hostility. I would like to say on a personal note that this particular club has a really nice community spirit about it that some other club threads just don't have. It's OK to be opinionated and have your own views, that's what makes a community work well together, but there has to be a decent amount of mutual respect for each other and peoples respective views. I did not get that particular vibe from Onlyest i must say, but that's only my opinion.

#5712 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Does anyone else have this problem? For those of you who have a collection, do you find yourself constantly messing with them, or do you pretty much get them to a point then leave well enough alone?

YUP, and Sort of Eventually you do get to a point where you're happy with all the changes. Modding, and all that it entails is of course extremely personal and subjective. I'm pretty sure i mentioned to MP once about how far do you go with LEDS, etc before it becomes critical mass so to speak I've seen some mods people have added to their machines that i wouldn't add to my mine and i'm sure people have felt the same about what i've added to mine also.

#5737 2 years ago
Quoted from Bos98:

Does anyone know what post I need that holds the super charger ramp down at the 3 stand up targets in front of the pops?

On my machine (not sure if it's standard though), it's more like one of these http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-5222
and the leg from the supercharger holds down with a screw and washer.

#5752 2 years ago
Quoted from Bos98:

Brilliant, any idea what the post # or a link to the part is?

The part i listed may not have been the exact one but it's what you needed wasn't it?? Am i thinking of the wrong area? or is it the post under the front support leg for the supercharger? The link i added is what you need but the length may not be the correct size, i can't measure mine at the moment cause my machine is packed in behind a bunch of other stuff.