Might as well jump on the wagon as well.

Here is mine with some of the usual mods: Donut Heaven, proto mountain and LED. I also added LED to the flipper buttons as well. As for the mountain plastic, I prefer the graphic version vs having it clear (tried a clear piece) - I however cut the play field plastic that is now hidden by the mountain to allow light up to the plastic illuminating it to shed some light in the dark area. I also added a spot light to shine on the mountain that I mounted to the super charger.

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Yea, I messaged BR about buying from him as well and no answer. But a search of eBay turned up this (old link): ebay.com link: 2 x 22 LED Set Car LightFlash Flashing Modes Strobe Emergency Grill Light blue

But I had to buy 2 sets though to get 2 blues - same setup that BR was selling. I just spliced into the power for the beacon to run these. I opened the box and also soldered across the mode button that I wanted as I didn't want to use the 'tie wrap' method - while it was apart I noticed that the power is rectified so even though the beacon power is AC power no worries.

I will write something up tonight with some pictures of the power connection connection and mod to the inside of the box.

Flasher mod.

First I just wanted to say that I have no idea who came up with this mod in the first place and what I am about to show was inspired by Black_Rose and is based on what he had previously posted.

[edit] - credit goes to KoolMoeCraig for coming up with this mod - thanks for the idea.

The purpose of this is to add blue LED flashers to the cabinet, I added mine to the top. The wires for the lights feed into the back box via the grills on the back.

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Module prepped. I wanted to use some Molex connectors vs. just splicing in the power so I crimped on some pins. Male 0.093 pins at the y (red circle) and female pins at the other ends. The tie wrap was part of Black Rose's documentation for selecting which mode you wanted displayed (I wanted A flash 3 times one side and then 3 times opposite side and repeat). I later decided to modify the module to eliminate the tie wrap as IMHO it didn't look very nice. The unit has no memory, so the switch has to always be pressed so that your selected mode is active when power is applied.

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To modify the module, all I did was basically short out the A switch inside. Bottom cover removed. The 2 pins that are circled are where the switch closes the circuit on the board to select A mode (screw driver points to the A button).

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I just added enough solder to bridge the pins that are circled above.

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Here is where I screwed the module in the back box. BTW the wires for the lamps on top I have passing through the grill - they will not fit as is, I removed the pins from the housing (paid attention to which one went where just in case) and passed the wires through and then reinserted the pins back into the housing.

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The power was taken from the beacon supplied power (which is AC, but the module has a rectifier inside to convert it to DC so all is good). Here is a close up of how I have the power hooked up. Basically I picked up some 0.093 Molex connectors and pins to make it look 'neat'. Basically unplugged the Beacon from the resistor board and inserted the module.

IMG_0433a.jpg

Basically, the blue LED lights flash any time the beacon is on.

Another mod I did was to add LED's to the flipper buttons. Just got some 90° 44 sockets along with some 44 red flex LED's. Positioned the sockets with the bulb installed so I can get the proper position without them causing any interference and screwed them into the side of the cabinet.

I removed the connectors from the lamp power from the start switch, crimped some spade connectors on some wire for the flipper button LED's and connected them all together. The flipper LED's are wired in parallel with the start button so they light when the start buttons does. Wire was run for the right flipper over top the coin door opening and tie wrapped out of the way.

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Here is a picture of the solder points that you will need to short out for the different modes (mark A B C) - only short one out at any time (I don't think it will cause a problem, just no ideal what the result would be). I would suggest trying each mode first and see which one you like.

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oooo, shiny.... drool.gif bow.gif

From my limited experience, what I have seen happen a few times is that they usually end up getting bent and as such don't work correctly. I will try to remember to get a picture for you.

limelime20 - sorry for the delay:
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futurepinhead - missing a post:
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03-8247-13

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8247-13

I seem to recall that it was a wood one (not 100% sure at the moment) - I think it was added later to make the loop shot a bit harder, I seem to remember reading.

See here for a simple break down: http://www.dziedzic.us/wpc_speaker_sound_info.html

I used these in my Getaway:

BB speakers
https://www.parts-express.com/pyle-pl42bl-blue-label-4-coaxial-speaker-pair--267-078

L-pad
https://www.parts-express.com/speaker-l-pad-attenuator-50w-mono-3-8-shaft-8-ohm--260-252

Cross-over for the bottom speaker
https://www.parts-express.com/100-hz-low-pass-4-ohm-crossover--266-444

Cabinet speaker
https://www.parts-express.com/goldwood-gw-8024-8-butyl-surround-woofer-4-ohm--290-356

I cut the hole larger on the 1 side, so there is no going back - but the sound quality is so much better than before.

1) check power at the board.
2) check for cold solder joints on the connectors for both the sound board and power supply (actually IMHO it doesn't hurt to check all boards). Unplug the game and remove the boards and look at the backside.
3) re-seat the EPROMs and any other socket IC's (make sure game unplugged)

...as do I - what are the chances...

I ended up using a couple of spot lights in the area. I tried the strips and didn't care too much for the light. I ended up with purple LED's, 1 super bright and 1 regular (the super bright is pointing towards the left). I will have to try and remember to post some pictures.

MustangPaul - thanks for the suggestion (re: kick out hole) - didn't even think of that one and will have to add it.

Ok, here is what I did for the left rear:

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The spotlight pointing to the left (when viewed from playing position) is a super bright (4 LED), the other one is just "normal" (1 LED) as the super bright was way too bright and over powered the area IMHO.

I still have to do the saucer...

if you want to.

I have the 2 soldered together and then just run some wire down and use some alligator clips and clip onto a GI bulb.

If you have access to a lathe, just bore the shaft and put the wires inside.

Yes I have noticed that - and - my sign for the super charger isn't cut right (I did enquirer about it as well and got no reply).

(sorry about the poor picture quality).
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I see yours is also not cut correctly (same as mine) although it is a bit better (at least you have "some" pink along the bottom) - IMHO poor quality control on the Getaway plastics.

I suppose one could check which switch is being activated in the switch test and compared to the manuals description of said switch.

I have the play field protector on my unit and can't complain - I figured the extra protection couldn't hurt.

That is what I say since the plastic looks broken.

I am having a problem with my ball lock coil if anyone can help - I created a thread over here in the tech section: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-help-with-ball-lock-coil-locking-on-cpu-board-at-fault#post-2666868

Thanks.

Mine had a similar issue (PO didn't care or notice). I had to replaced the main bracket that held the coils as it was bent (was unable to "fix" it so that it work 100% of the time) - I would check that assembly to see if anything is binding (maybe just a worn sleeve).

This. I installed a set on a Fish Tales and the quality was top notch and the ink even felt raised.

As did I

The one thing that bug me about the playfield is the missing "plate" above the targets just to the right of the super charger entrance ramp. Should also be some sort of decal there as well with a plate mounted to the top of the 2 posts.

I really need to get off my ass and do something about that.

If not buying new, you could try a product like this (I know there are kits available).

Re: light up panel

Ok, so seems I missed something, but where/who exactly is selling them and where?

Or is there a play-by-play on it being installed?

I agree not near as orange as the originals. I have not installed mine due to this - still deciding if I should sell them or not.

The problem is shipping will cost you from me to you - not cheap going between Canada and the US (or the other way).

But I will keep you in mind.

This how is they use to do it, much easier now days.

That DMD board is easy to repair if you are some what handy with a soldering iron. Replace the filter caps and clean/remove old solder in the lower section and add fresh new solder. The part get hot in the area and usually create cold solder joints (which you can see in the picture posted).

Of course if you would just rather have a new board, you can't really go wrong there.

Been a bit since I loitered around this thread, especially since I let my Getaway go.

That being said, I do have a set of repro plastics I am willing to sell. CPR lists them for US$169 - I will let them go for US$150 (plus shipping). Please message me if you are interested. These are unused, but the package has been opened.