Just found this club! Count me in!
(Topic ID: 78179)
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Getaway: High Speed II, The
Williams, 1992
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2 months later
Hello guys!
My Super Charger is a bit slow. I took it apart to inspect it. Do you guys think my rivets on my diverter are supposed to be like that? Are they from factory? Or a hack job? I'm trying to figure out if these rivets are possibly slowing down the ball? Can anybody maybe take a pic of your diverter? What do you guys think of the rivets? Thanks!
Quoted from Mancave:Yeah, that's normal. The bottom rivet is recessed so the ball flying round the supercharger doesn't bounce off it weirdly (also would slow it down). I bought a brand new assembly a while back and it looks exactly the same.
Wow thanks! You have saved me some money as I was about to buy a new one! So the ball doesn't hit the top rivet?
Quoted from Mancave:Yeah, that's normal. The bottom rivet is recessed so the ball flying round the supercharger doesn't bounce off it weirdly (also would slow it down). I bought a brand new assembly a while back and it looks exactly the same.
What else could be slowing the ball down? Old coil sleeve? Old plunger? The actuator is very tight so that is not it....
Quoted from Mancave:No, there's enough clearance to miss it, as far as i know. If the supercharger is slow it will be another reason. The ball could be hitting something else. Read back through the posts on this thread (yeah i know, LOT of pages ) but from memory this issue has been brought up a few times, and the remedies (my memory for that part is sketchy )
I'll be up all night reading LOL! Thank you very much sir! 
Quoted from tiltmonster:Check the magnets (and opto switches in the SC), faulty magnets and/or switches could slow the SC... run your SC tests and let us know what you happened.
Well I would have to wait until I put it all back together but I will let you know.
Some questions: I have run the done the tests but honestly all seems to work fine. How can I find out for sure a magnet is out?
If I do have a bad magnet, how do I replace it? Is it hard to do? Thanks
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Pretty simple and there are 2 tests you need to run.
T.12 Supercharger - enter this test and enable all 3 magnets by pressing up or down test buttons, then launch a ball by hand into the SC. You should see the optos open as it passes through (closed by default). If opto is stuck in open position by default then you have a problem as it will not activate the corresponding magnet.
T.13 SC Time Test - enter this test and roll a ball into the SC. Once up to speed, see what your avg is. I think it should at least be in high 80's but don't exactly remember. If all mags are working but you are getting slow rates then may be mag related.
I also had some issues with one of the fuses (see earlier post in this forum) where it kept blowing. I believe the issue for me was a couple of bad optos. After replacing, my SC has worked perfectly for some time now.
Thank for this great info!!!
Quoted from tiltmonster:You can test them 1 at a time by setting 2 switches to closed but the full test with them open should show them working as the ball passes the optos. If there is a faulty opto, most of the time the transceiver is bad but it is possible for the receiver switch to be bad or out of whack. Yes, high 80's like 88 is ok, when mine game was firing well it was hitting in the low 90's but I haven't run the test in a while...
Great info, thanks!!
Quoted from tiltmonster:Check the magnets (and opto switches in the SC), faulty magnets and/or switches could slow the SC... run your SC tests and let us know what happened.
Thanks!
Quoted from jawjaw:Kornfreak - one thing to check is if the ball is hitting the plastic that covers the u-turn. I had that problem when I first got my game. I had to put spacers under the plastic to raise it half an inch or so.
Hello jawjaw
Yes I put One clear spacer there and the ball stopped draining down the side but I might have to add another to see if speed improves. Still waiting for parts I ordered from marco....will post update
Quoted from jawjaw:Kornfreak - one thing to check is if the ball is hitting the plastic that covers the u-turn. I had that problem when I first got my game. I had to put spacers under the plastic to raise it half an inch or so.
I just got my parts and removed the 2 screws to the actuator. How in the world do you get this diverter gate off? Its stuck in there! Hammer it out? Don't wanto to damage anything. Thanks
Quoted from tiltmonster:Do you have a manual? If not you should get one or you can DL it, I'll check it when I can but I don't recall if that calls for lubricant (I know the drop post in the wire form does). Many machines don't use any sort of grease and I'm pretty oil is usually a no no
Sorry I didnt know the manual would tell me what kind of grease to apply
Quoted from tiltmonster:Yeah, taking that off or adjusting it sucks... but that's pinball, some parts are just really hard to work on or access.
Just got the diverter off...was just wondering if any grease should be applied
Quoted from tiltmonster:Do you have a manual? If not you should get one or you can DL it, I'll check it when I can but I don't recall if that calls for lubricant (I know the drop post in the wire form does). Many machines don't use any sort of grease and I'm pretty oil is usually a no no
Maybe you are right, I just ask because the diverter and actuator were covered with some type of grease
Quoted from MustangPaul:Do you have a ultrasonic parts cleaner? Otherwise just scrub the shaft with some mild steel wool and use a tooth brush and soapy water in the threads of the set screw, put a light coat of oil on it and run it in and out a few times then wipe the oil off and you'll be good.
Like some WD-40?
Quoted from MustangPaul:I use stuff called Super Web grease if I need to lube something up. Google it.
I will. Thanks
Quoted from tiltmonster:Well I finally broke down and got some Cliffy protectors installed. I figured I'd protect my newly repaired out hole (repainted wear spot, applied CC, waxed it and put down Mylar) so it wouldn't get beat up. Props to Cliffy for some nice fitting parts.
That looks nice! Maybe I can Install some in mine since I have it torn apart right now. Where they hard to install?
Quoted from SUPERBEE:If you already have the playfield torn apart it only takes a few mins.
Thanks!
Quoted from tiltmonster:Not hard at all, the shooter lane requires you to loosen the black wooden rail so you can slide the plate underneath it but the top is like replacing the rubbers except you'll need to take out the back metal ball stops.
http://www.passionforpinball.com/HS2.htmNo hammer required, whew...
NP. It's what we do here, good luck and enjoy your pin (once you get it put back together).
EDIT: The shooter lane will require you to remove the 1st screw under the PF from the wooden rail otherwise you'll never get the hole in the plate lined up. Maybe taking it out completely would be easier but I didn't need to remove it just loosen the other screws...
Thanks! Guys, as you all know, my machine is torn apart. I went ahead and installed LEDs. The Super Charger is completely disconnected as you all know....so, I wanted to turn ON the machine to see if the LEDs work. Can I turn it ON even though the Super Charger is disconnected? Will that cause ANY issues or problems or shorts or damage to the boards or any componet? Thanks!
Quoted from jawjaw:I would say no grease. Some kind of light oil or graphite. Grease will get all gunked up over time.
Sure. You can turn it on with parts disconnected. It will not hurt anything. Just make sure you are not fiddling with things with the power on.
Thanks jaw jaw!
Have you ever taken the back up and down ramp off? I'm almost there but I'm not sure if its several pieces or one big piece. Do you just pull it off the up and down arm? Thanks!
Quoted from jawjaw:I did it once and don't remember it being difficult. There is a pin slides under ramp that has to be removed. Forget exactly how but access it through back of game.
So the pin under the ramp has to be removed? To me it looks like it just slides off if you pull the ramp away from the pin but I might be mistaken. What do you think?
Quoted from flynnibus:The ramp flap is supported by a pivot bar that must be removed from behind the backboard. It's just held on by a nut, which you must use plyers to hold the bar from the playfield side, then undo the nut from the backboard side. Remove that, along with the assembly that is the top of the ramp.
If memory serves, you need to undo the right wireform from the screw in the playfield near the lock area so it can be slid around and completely pull the supercharger loop away. Then the ramp assembly in the back corner can be accessed fully.. remove the screws holding it all down and to the sides.. and the bar under the ramp flap as described before.
That assembly is common for being hacked or bypassed and the flap fails and often isn't replaced.
Yes I can see that I will need to remove the wireform. I have two questions please.
1. As you can see in the last picture I posted, you can see the pivot bar wedged in the underside of the ramp in a bracket to hold it in. My question is, once I remove the wireform, all the screws and everything, is it even possible to just pull the ramp assembly "away" from the pivot arm and off the bracket? I was just trying to not unscrew the pivot arm. Will that be possible to just pull away from the arm to release the whole ramp assembly? Or pretty much the pivot arm has to be unscrewed no matter what? Sorry for the question but in the picture, it appears as if just pulling the ramp assembly away from the pivot arm will do the trick. What do you think?
2. If I must remove the pivot arm, when I put it back, will that cause ANY issues when I start a game? What I'm trying to say is: The arm pivot right now with the game disassembled is in the up position. If I remove the arm, the whole thing will problaly go down. Will this confuse the game or cause any problems because I messed with the position of the arm? Sorry but I just don't want to mess this up. Thanks!
I asked the last question because I read somewhere that I someone had issues when he put the ramp assembly back in the PF.
Quoted from yonkiman:I'd remove the pin from the pivot arm. It *might* be possible to remove the ramp assembly without removing the pin but I wouldn't try it.
No, there won't be any confusion - the game knows if the ramp is up or down. You may need to adjust the pin slightly when you put it back together to make sure the ramp doesn't go too high or not high enough.
Thanks!!! This is the info I needed! I removed a big triagle shaped "wall" that is next to the ramp to the left. This will most probably give me the space I need to just pull away from the arm without having to unscrew it. I think its worth a try.
Why do you say you wouldn't try it? Do you forsee any problems if I try it? Thanks!
Quoted from yonkiman:You seem to really want to try to do it that way, so give it a shot. If it looks like anything's getting damaged, stop and unscrew the pin.
Is not that I really want to do it this way, its just that I know it will be a PITA to screw that arm back to the lifting mechanism with the ramp back in place since I will have to maneuver the arm with a pair of pliers under the ramp and basically you can't really see what you are doing. Am I correct here? Is it difficult to screw the arm back? That is why I wanted to avioid removing the arm.
If I remove the arm, what will happen to the mechanism that holds the arm? Will it stay up or fall down?
Thanks!
Quoted from dmacy:Not sure if these pictures will help or not but I will say it was way easy to have this mechanism adjusted/removed with the playfield out. If that's not difficult for you, highly recommend so you can get it dialed in perfectly.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hs2-playfield-swap#post-2799198
Let me check them out. Thanks!
Quoted from dmacy:Not sure if these pictures will help or not but I will say it was way easy to have this mechanism adjusted/removed with the playfield out. If that's not difficult for you, highly recommend so you can get it dialed in perfectly.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hs2-playfield-swap#post-2799198
Thanks for the suggestion and pics! Those really help! What do you think about my idea of just pulling the ramp away from the arm? Is it even possible? Thanks
Quoted from flynnibus:You can't get the ramp out without removing the support bar. You don't need to do anything with the moving part of the assembly.. so you just put it back in and tighten the nut.. you won't have issues.
Thanks for all your help and words of encouragement! I guess there is no other way but to remove that arm! Let me ask you another question if you don't mind:
I never ever make the up and down ramp with my lower right flipper. As I'm going through the teardown process, I honestly do not see anything that prevents the ball from making it up the ramp. I have rebuilt all 3 flippers with all the correct parts. The only thing I have noticed is that the ramp has some type of "glue" residue and maybe that prevents the ball from going up the ramp? (Note: When I use my hand, the ball goes up the ramp no problem, so maybe this glue residue is not at fault?) What I also noticed is that my ramp flap is off to the side a bit? Is it supposed to be completely flush with the back wall?
I'm running out of ideas because that is all I can think of that might prevent the ball from going up the ramp with my right lower flipper. When I use my top right flipper the ball goes up no problem. When the ramp is in the UP position and I shoot the ball with my right flipper, the ball actually travels super fast around the loop. When I use my hand around the loop the ball does go up the ramp. So, I'm quite puzzed as to why this is happenning. This is one of the main reasons why I disassembled the PF to see If there was anything binding or slowing the ball down. Any suggestions are much appreciated! Thanks!!!!!
Quoted from flynnibus:Your ramp flap is hacked... that is very common on this game. In fact mine was broke the very same way, but I solved it differently For years I had electrical tape wrapped around the ramp (perpendicular to the ball flow) to keep the flap in place and it worked fine. The welds holding the pivot on the bottom of the ramp is what ultimately failed on mine, and I had to cut a new ramp flap for the new ramp when I replaced it. The glue could be a factor, but don't forget to check the whole orbit leading up to the ramp. Normally shots like these can fail due to the ball being rattled around.
I don't know if that screw head in your photo looks correct... I'm not in front of my game, but that is standing out to me.
Getting up that ramp is no gimmie.. but it should be able to be made reliably on a clean orbit shot.
You talk about the screw that prevents the ramp from going to high?
Quoted from dmacy:flynnibus is dead on about how to remove. It's not bad. Take lots of pics. I shopped mine when I bought it starting in this this sick hobby and all went well. If you can find someone in your area with a rivet press get the new ramp flap if the ramp is ok. Mine was broken and the Pinbits one is what I bought 5 years ago. It's done great so far after 5 years and likely 2-4K plays since I've owned it before swapping playfields.
Its good to know about pinbits...been looking everywhere for that flap. I certainly don't mean to beat this horse to death but I don't have the experience in removing the top of playfields. This is my first time doing this. Thats the reason for all the questions. I appreciate your help very much! 
Quoted from Grinder901:My back ramp was a mess as well.
A few months later, it's chromed with a new flap riveted.
That looks nice! Will have to do that some day. Where you having the same issue of not locking up balls with the lower right flipper before your new flap?
Quoted from flynnibus:Your ramp flap is hacked... that is very common on this game. In fact mine was broke the very same way, but I solved it differently For years I had electrical tape wrapped around the ramp (perpendicular to the ball flow) to keep the flap in place and it worked fine. The welds holding the pivot on the bottom of the ramp is what ultimately failed on mine, and I had to cut a new ramp flap for the new ramp when I replaced it. The glue could be a factor, but don't forget to check the whole orbit leading up to the ramp. Normally shots like these can fail due to the ball being rattled around.
I don't know if that screw head in your photo looks correct... I'm not in front of my game, but that is standing out to me.
Getting up that ramp is no gimmie.. but it should be able to be made reliably on a clean orbit shot.
Thanks for your help!
Quoted from jawjaw:Getaway is real easy to take apart. I took it slow and kept track where every fastener went. My ramp flap is cracked. I bought a replacement long time ago but never got around to installing it. Still works fine so don't feel like going through all that work. Not sure what will cause problems with ball going up ramp. I would just make sure it sits flat and not any weird angles.
Thanks jaw jaw!
Quoted from Grinder901:No not at all. Though it's been unplayable for a few months now so my memory isn't super clear about how it used to play. It should be back together and kicking ass in all its chromed greatness very soon.
Cool!
Quoted from Grinder901:I'm a Sheriff's Deputy and thought I'd support these chrome cap decals. I like the star ones that resemble a badge. They are prob designed for the standard cap and not these jeweled caps so it wasn't an easy install for the outer ring. What do y'all think?
Those look damn good!!! They go with the game theme too! Well done! 
Where did you buy them?
Quoted from PinKopf:New member here too. Purchased Getaway as my first pin from another local pinsider here a month or so ago. Already did full LEDs (and led-patched L-2 eprom) and really love it.
You definitely should be able to make the lock shot from the lower right flipper. I struggle a bit with the shot myself, but a clean shot should easily make the rear ramp and lock...
Lousy pic of mine here.
Looks nice!
Hello guys!
I'm putting back my getaway Super Charger now. I just want to make sure....Do any of you guys remember if the diverter gate is supposed to be sitting on a washer? See pic. Mine has a little bit of play up and down and I don't know if that washer is causing that. The sets screws are extremely tight so that is not causing it. Any advise is greatly appreciated! Thanks!
Quoted from flynnibus:Check out the manual...
http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/1000/Williams_1992_The_Getaway_High_Speed_II_English_Manual_with_OCR.pdf
Says there are washers on both top and bottom.. item 23 on PDF page 92
I don't remember the divertor being particularly tight up and down.. just make sure it doesn't give in the rotation direction.
Thanks so much! Will put it together now!
Well guys, I just put the playfield back together and I'm sooo dissapointed 
Turn the machine ON, no errors or reports, start a game, ball pops in the shooter lane, launch the ball and the machine resets!!! Start another game, press any flipper, the machine resets!! Started another game, got the gall with my hand from the shooter lane, sent it up the Super Charger, machine resets! I reseated some ribbon cables and other connectors and the problem persists.
Put the machine in Super Charger test mode, it works but its sooo slow now, like 178, worse than before! All I did was take the SC off to clean and replace parts. Don't know why its acting this way.
Turned the machine ON again, now I get an error report, "shiter error" and "check switch 81 opto # 1".
My questions are: What could be causing the reset issue?
Is the reset issue related to opto 1 switch 81?
How do I fix or check switch 81, opto 1 (its in the SC)
Its very frustrating when stuff like this happens, hope you guys can guide me and help me out. Thanks a lot!
On a side note: I took extremely good care of the super charger will I had it off the machine. No wires were damaged or pinched or broken.
Quoted from flynnibus:when things go haywire after simple work... its usually due to plugging harnesses into the wrong place. Wrong voltages in the wrong place can give all kinds of wierd results.
Go back to where you were working.. and look for any connectors that are of similar size. Make sure you didn't plug a switch plug into a coil or light one, etc. Best thing to do is just review where you were.
You can run the game without the supercharger assembly entirely.. so you can remove the wiring you were working around and see if it cleans up. Also check for things that got moved around and can be shorting on other pieces of metal now.
The game's errors can give you hints on where to start looking.. look up those connectors and double check they are in the right spot, right colors, etc.
I basically just pulled both connectors under the playfield for the SC and the SC connector for the lights. They are different sized connectors so, I don't think I plugged a connector in the wrong place...I will double check anyway...thanks for your guidance!
Quoted from flynnibus:when things go haywire after simple work... its usually due to plugging harnesses into the wrong place. Wrong voltages in the wrong place can give all kinds of wierd results.
Go back to where you were working.. and look for any connectors that are of similar size. Make sure you didn't plug a switch plug into a coil or light one, etc. Best thing to do is just review where you were.
You can run the game without the supercharger assembly entirely.. so you can remove the wiring you were working around and see if it cleans up. Also check for things that got moved around and can be shorting on other pieces of metal now.
The game's errors can give you hints on where to start looking.. look up those connectors and double check they are in the right spot, right colors, etc.
Will probably have to remove or disconnect the SC to see if it clears up. Will report back. Thanks!
Quoted from jawjaw:I'm not too experienced but found this to be true. Earlier today I reset all connectors in my shadow trying to fix a reset problem it has. Game booted up buzzing and seemed like it was going to blow up. I reset the ribbon cables and it was all good. I would try to reset all connectors. Check pins and for burnt connectors as you go. Go into test mode and test all switches and coils. Start with basics.
That sounds good! Will report back. Thanks!!!!
Update! Disconnected the SC connectors from under the PF and the machine works like a charm! I'm even able to make the up and down ramp with my lower right flipper!
I don't see how I connected those connectors wrong?? Is that even possible? They are different sizes and have groves. What did I do wrong here? Did I fry anything? How? Thanks!!
Could it be that I didn't connect one all the way or something? I'm scared to connect them again and see if they work.
Quoted from tiltmonster:As for the Shifter error, this can happen when you only use the shifter in one direction just wiggle it up and down and it should reset... it's not truly an error or at least that's been the case on my table.
Connectors are usually specific but anything is possible...
Sometimes, like mentioned before, after doing so much to the pin it goes crazy but it will catch up and be fine after a few start ups.
Opto errors or slow SC can be because the opto are out of alignment.
If you fried anything it could be a fuse just check them out
Is it OK to reconnect them and try again? I will also chech the fuses.
Why would they not work if they were connected properly? I'm very positive I did. Thanks!!
Quoted from Mancave:I realise this is a bit late "at the moment" but i can not stress ENOUGH the point that if you are not overly confident on repairs, etc, ALWAYS take lots of pictures before taking ANYTHING apart on a machine. Go even further than that, LABEL every plug that you disconnect (use a piece of masking tape and write on both male and female sides of the plug, even if you just number the plugs as 1-1, 2-2 etc etc). Whilst it is true that a lot of plugs are specific and in the case of the plugs in the back box a lot only plug one way there are always plugs used that are exactly the same size and plug the same way. Being anal about labelling and picture taking may seem extreme but it can help immensely down the track, especially if you get distracted, inbetween work, whatever!!
Trust me, I did label everything....thanks!
Quoted from jawjaw:With the supercharger connected, run through testing of the optos, magnets, and diverter. Like tiltmonster says, errors that the game reports may not mean anything. You need to verify that each switch and part is working one at a time. Hard to do that during gameplay when everything is active.
So its OK to reconnect the SC and try again?
The thing is that its not just the errors, the game was resetting when pressing any flipper or launch shifter, and diverter during game mode. I'm 100% sure I connected them the correct way. Thanks
Well I have an update....plugged the SC back in and did a SC opto test and they all passed. Did a SC time test and the speed got a lot better, 103 I believe. Played a few games, no resets and everything normal.
Placed the glass back on and decided to play one more game. Started "revving the engine" with both flippers and lauched the ball...then hit the ball with right flipper and got a damn reset again! Started another game with the glass off to test shooting the ball with my hand. No resets with flipper, then shot the ball up the SC, another reset!
It looks like it has nothing to do with the SC connectors at all. There is something making a false connection or something along those lines. Besides resetting the ribbon cables, what do you guys think might be the problem causing this resets?
Any help is greatly appreciated.
On a separete note: I wanted to thank all of you for helping me getting through my first real shop job! You guys really know your stuff and I have learned a lot! Thanks again!
Ok guys, i think I may have finally found the issue! About 2 weeks ago, I purchased a portable AC unit for my garage where I have my Getaway. Of course the machine has been torn apart form the last 2 weeks for the shop job and just barely started playing it with the AC on. I read on a different thread that sometimes resets are caused by voltage drops in the outlet. I checked the outlet with AC on and gave me 120, turned AC off gave me 115. Played the machine with the AC off and no more resets in 3 games that I played! Keeping fingers crossed and hoping I did in fact found the solution. Will keep testing it tomorrow 
Thanks!
Quoted from flynnibus:Low voltage is low voltage... the spike from coils dwarfs any light savings.
The line voltage can be changed to the low tap... Or just get rob kahr's board which will also give a clean 5v
Even with the AC ON?
Quoted from flynnibus:Low voltage is low voltage... the spike from coils dwarfs any light savings.
The line voltage can be changed to the low tap... Or just get rob kahr's board which will also give a clean 5v
Can you please explain to me how to change line to the low tap? What is that all about?
Quoted from flynnibus:Its just about thresholds... The electronics on the driver board can be more on the edge depending on their age and health. You find all the time some examples are just more sensitive than others. The wpc system is notorious for this. Rob's board generates the 5v using a modern regulator off the 12v system that is less fickle.
Low tap is changing which windings off the transformer the game is wired to. Should be covered in the manual. It can help in some situations.
You might just find that your highspeed is on the edge with its driver board 5v system.
I will check out the manual for sure. Now, this Rob board you talk about: If I buy one, will I be able to play the game with the AC on and low voltage just by using this board? Where can I find it? This is the driver board we are talking about correct? Thanks!
Quoted from MustangPaul:How many btu is it? Try a 5000 btu.
Its a 12,000 btu. My garage is big....
Quoted from TheOnlyest:Do you only have the one pin in this garage with your AC unit? What else have you got normally drawing power in there besides lights?
Basically just lights. All my other pins I keep turned Off while I play one. Its basically just lights and the portable AC unit. Thanks!
Quoted from JOESCHALL:What you're referring to is the WPC daughterboard by Rob Kahr. I recently installed the WPC daughterboard on my routed Getaway (was resetting sometimes when other things were running on the same circuit) and it seems to have cured the reset problem. Nice potential solution for around $40. Attached is a picture of the daughterboard, the simple installation instructions, and Rob's card with the website for ordering.
Thank you very much sir! Will look into it!
I had issues with opto 1 yesterday. Did a full test on all the componets and it went away. Do a full test on the optos and SC. See if everyrhing works in test mode first
I was having resets issues last night. It was due to a new portable AC unit that was dropping the voltage. AC turned off, no more resets
Sorry about your chrome job! You are correct, the chrome job probably messed how everything fits...hope you can figure it out
Quoted from Grinder901:So everything is back on the playfield. Turn the game on and I had a ton of errors involving opto 1-3 switches 81-5 were bad.
Then the lower right flipper fires and then stays up.
I turn off the game and reseat some connectors. I turn the game back on and I either get this high pitch whine or loud feedback from the speakers and the ColorDMD is all scrambled.
I'm at a loss here. Anyone have any suggestions?
Last time I had my DMD like that, full od dots everywhere, my power supply was completely fried. May not be your issue. Just trying to help out
Quoted from MustangPaul:Well there ya go right there, a 12000btu should be on it's own 20 amp. You should know that.
Well not really, I'm not an electrician....JK sir 
I must admit, I had a suspicion or concern that something like that could happen, but since my other pins were not affected, I sort of didn't pay attention to the voltage issue. But I'm happy to report Getaway so far plays like a champ and the left loop around to the up and down ramp goes thru almost every time! Thanks!
1 week later
Quoted from flynnibus:You mean secret mania? You shift the shifter during the donut shop animation on ball lock 2
Red Line Mania is the 'wizard mode' for getting to the top gear (rpm shots to fill guage, shift, then repeat for each gear)
Wow! Thanks for that info!!! But isn't there a "redline mania" as well?
Quoted from jawjaw:Get rpm's hitting loops, shift gears, and getting to the end of 5th gear. That's pretty much the core of the game. Redline Mania is pretty cool but the best mode for points is the Supercharger Mode. If you can learn to quickly transfer the ball to the right flipper, hit the supercharger, and repeat you can get a lot of points easily. Of course, I always drain right when the mode starts.
Nice!
Quoted from MustangPaul:When your ready for mods my red Leg Light Ups would look great.
Post a pic of your mods....
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