THJM
My slide assembly also needs help . I found that if you remove the cam from the back of a coin door lock, it makes a perfect makeshift screwdriver for the swivel nuts. I discovered this while tumbling some parts.

Hi all
I’m looking for some help with this dreaded error
Check fuses F114 and 115 on my new broken Getaway.
The fuses are good
I pulled J101 and tested pins 3 and 7 and they read close to 5
According to what I read, I’m assuming this means the bridge rectifiers are good.
I also grounded the red and tested . Same reading.

Upon turning on the game , the LED on the MPU blink then 19 goes out, 20 steady blinks kinda quick and 21 is steady on.

A lot of what I read indicates a Blown U20, bad ROM or RAM.

Is there anything else I should or can test to help narrow down the issue?
If it’s a chip , I could give it a try but I think it might be beyond my skill set to remove and sockets for U20 and RAM and install NVRAM to get rid of the batteries.
I outdone hate to send out the boards ( don’t know where to send them) if the problem is something simple I can fix.
Any testing recommendations are much appreciated.

GRUMPY
Hi, you’ve helped me out with my cyclone which is working great!
The getaway however ...
This is a new learning experience .

If your talking about the three LEDs on the board., yes.
Top one goes out middle blinks fast bottom is on.

D087596F-4342-4229-A364-A3AFDB0E7DE2 (resized).jpeg

GRUMPY
These three?
There were others that seemed out I’ll try to locate them...

507811D9-3B27-4A18-AC16-3E23B59E15C4 (resized).jpeg

GRUMPY
#High speed II the Getaway

If I remember correctly, led2 and led 3 were or lit.

81587B92-F2D8-4CC5-B2D0-1B3F00787074 (resized).jpeg

GRUMPY
Where do you find this info?!?
I’m always amazed.

LEDs 7, 4, 5 are all solid lit

LEDs 2, 3 and 7 are not lit.

Seems like 2&3 don’t offer much but 7 seems to be associated with BR1 and fused by F114

I wound up taking the boards out and brought them home to work on (or send out)
Can I test BR1 without power?
I saw a video.....

GRUMPY
I tested BR 1-5
And the results are on the attached picture below .

3FDB24E7-49DD-453C-95FC-70E75F121297 (resized).jpeg

F7098585-9CEE-4EF1-9629-C1F103382993 (resized).jpeg

GRUMPY

Yes there was a “.” In front of all those #s.

I hate to ask but what exactly am I checking for continuity on the board? In real beginner terms ...

I can send all the boards out, pay the few hundred bucks and not learn a darn thing.
But cash is tight, I’m kind of cheep and It would especially suck if the boards are ok. But if something is wrong , it sure would be nice to know what it is...

Would you tell me what to check next?

I may have been touching the traces.
I guess I should only be touching the tiny nubs

My saga of the broke HS2 I brought home continues ...

The CPU and MPU we’re sent out to Clive,
They came back recently in perfect working order.
Thank you Clive!

I reinstalled all the boards, powered up the pin and I received a few error messages.
Check switch 81 opto 1 through switch 85 opto 5. Also, none of the lamps light up.

For starters, I suppose I should check To see that all the connections to the boards are correct.
I may have missed one or plugged it in the wrong place.
I also need to check the ribbon cables.
Im hoping it’s as simple as a connector in the wrong place.

When I push the start button, a game won’t start. Is that normal if it’s displaying the opto errors?

In any case, I’ll be investigating more after work today.

waldo34

The spinner looks awesome!

its ALIVE !!!!!

it wound up being a loose connection.
I turned on the power and a game began!

Amazingly, the Supercharger not only works , but it works well.
Now to play a few dozen games and find all the trouble spots.

I'm thinking it needs a new set of hinges to start
I'm going to try and bend them back into shape first and see how that works out.
I'd rather spend the $$ on fun stuff instead of hinges.

monkfe
The slides are new to me, but from what I’ve read, almost all of the original hinges
Are bent and don’t work well at all.
There are a few posts about it.
search post#6955

I’m starting to make my comet LED list.
Is it going overboard with going with the 4 SMD non-ghosting LEDs as opposed to the single SMD non ghosting clear dome LEDs to light all the inserts?

Also thinking of blue pop bumpers and purple or red strip lighting for the back lane.

Thoughts?

Please see below…

Mr_Tantrum
The pre ious post didn’t quite post properly…
What I meant was…
Thanks for chiming in.
4 SMDs it is!
I used the EVO pop bumper on my Cyclone. I like that they’re reactive . IMHO they are currently the best .
I am also going with blue.
What caps did you use?
I think I like the jeweled look better than the plain caps.

(For the record, all my lighting experience and experimentation has been with the Cyclone.)

I had thought about the the UV but didn’t know if would be bright enough.
Looking at what you did with the spots on the gauge plastics looks great!
Love the UV strip under the apron and gauges. But it looks like the bottom of the playfield could use a bit of illumination.
Can two more spots be added on the bottom of the gauges?
Instead of the spots In the back, how would a UV strip work?

Another consideration is to light up the clear posts with UV post lights .
Overkill?

For the back left corner I was going to play around with a red fire bulb and a blue fire bulb.

And then there’s the flashers.
Personally, I like the white 23 SMD towers.
They’re blindingly bright .
As far as other colors, not so much.
Although I did have a green tower that I installed on the left side which I do kinda like when I see it flash. I notice it anyway ..
What flashers did you go with?

One last dumb question…
I need to order a replacement carriage bolt.
I can’t figure out which Marco part is the correct bolt.
The parts list number don’t seem like the correct “Marco “ part number.
I’ve got a temporary bolt in there now.
I think it’s a 3/8-16 X 1 1/4 long.
I don’t see it n black (if that’s the correct bolt )

I also discovered a missing ramp entrance flap for the lock ramp.
Apparently none has one.
Ugggg

Mr_Tantrum
Thanks for the input!

What standoffs did you use to replace the screws on the plastics to mount the spots?
It looks like a short post on top but what’s under it?
Another standoff and screw from underneath?

Also, I need to replace one of the carriage bolts n the cab .
I hate to ask but I don’t want to order the wrong one . Or five different ones in hopes of getting the one I really need.
When I look at the part number on the parts list it doesn’t look like the bolt I need when I look at the Marco part number
Any idea of which one I need?

THJM
The UV looks great!
The overhead light really makes it pop!
I’m not sure how my wife would react to the light over the pin but I might have to find out.

Hi all. It’s been a awhile but my HS2 is moving along . Replaced almost all the lights with 4smd comet lights. They made a big difference .

Still have more to order…

I’m hoping someon can help me find a ramp flap 01-10478. Marco is out of stock and I haven’t been able to find one.

Also,
Having trouble with the DMD
Seems to need to warm up and slowly start working. Makes a buzzing sound…
Is the display going bad ? Perhaps a good excuse to buy a color DMD.

wamonkey
Mr_Tantrum
sound over screen .
Listening to some of mix’s I can see your guys point.
I don’t know all that much about pinsound. I need to read more of how exactly it all works. I’ll need speakers and what else? How challenging is the install?

The wonky DMD is really bugging me.

When you first turn it on over half the screen is out.

I’m leaning twords replacing the screen but I don’t want to drop a ton of cash.
Fancy is nice but I’d settle for a moderately priced color DMD.
Used???
I suppose I would settle for less than the fanciest and save Up for the sound upgrades.

DMD saga continues…
I’ve been having some issues with my DMD . It’s mostly out till it warms up for a few hours and when it does it’s working about 0%. I thought I would take a look at the connections unplugged them and then plugged them back in and the screen is now a total mess. Any suggestions as to what I should try or where to start?

2DBB7A93-6D57-481A-A0D9-D150D0315846 (resized).jpeg

@sprudeldudel
I wish I could find someone local with a spare I can borrow just to confirm.
All I did is unplug J606 and it back in.
But yes, I think It’s met its demise.
I’ve seen some of your work on the scenes you posted. They look awesome!
Now I suppose I need to make a move .
I’m leaning towards the pin2dmd looks like I cost a bit less.

EStroh
I’m pretty sure everything is plugged in ok. There is a bit of a humm. It stops when I pull the ribbon cable.
The heat sink circled is very hot
Is that normal ?

50020621-7718-4352-8E70-297610663A6A (resized).jpeg

BA541F6A-FD7B-4636-B709-F19FB58078AC (resized).jpeg

Mr_Tantrum
I’ve been working, ever so slowly, on a sign design I haven’t seen.
It’s a work in progress. Working on adding a spot for a comet light strip.
My nephew should be able to print it for me…
Thoughts?

609A9175-1B82-4A7C-94F6-D3F8936E1ED5 (resized).jpeg

FD8B9AC3-D9EC-4333-A084-F62B77560C81 (resized).jpeg

Mr_Tantrum
Berkeley CA ? Eeeww no.
That would be the actual NJ Parkway exit we take for the shore New Jersey shore ( nothing like the show) I’m East
Coast ; A Different kind of crazy.

Which coast?

I like my sign a lil bit better than the actual sign.

I must be blind!
I just noticed Toms River.
We’re practically neighbors.
I’m at end of Cedar Creek.

I’m having an issue with my DMD on a HS2.
Not sure if it’s the board , the display or both. I’d rather do sound bit it’s lookin like I have to deal with this first. Thinking of a Pin2dmd looks like I have to learn a ton of stuff first. I like a plug and play kind of option .
Don’t know if the board is worth sending to Clive for testing and repair or just buy a new one .

It’s on the left. Same as the display. I thought of that too so I tried to plug it in backwards on the display but it only goes in one way.

I’m very open to input & open to good ideas .
I’m not sure what you mean by turning it 90 degrees…

Mr_Tantrum
I def like your rivets better.
I really like the look of the cross braces.

The “L” is to mount (glue, tape or snap) the sign on.
What if the “L” was omitted. Any recommendations as how to attach it to the sign?
Maybe print a groove of some sort on the back of the sign so that the arm end can slide into the sign piece?

I see what’s going on…
If I remove the rivets it should be straight forward to print. Probably wouldn’t really see the rivets anyway ….
Or
Print a top piece with rivets and glue it to a bottom with the “L” where the sign gets glued to.

Talk about over engendering a simple bracket !

No mountain mod. Not yet anyway.
I’m making the sign from scratch so I would size the sigh appropriately so that it will fit .
I have a tendency to “over do things”
My nephew is the “3D printing” guru.
I just make paper mock-ups and have him figure out how to make it. And then I want to improve it…

The simplest thing to do i this case is to get rid of the rivets snd print the whole bracket in one piece.
( I really do like the rivets however)

You might want to try an old truck we used as kids on the sliding boards.
Polish up the suprchager track with plain wax paper.
No oily residue to attract dirt which will slow you down in short order .

I would have gone with a clear post with a comet “flame post light”

golfergordy
Check the wires behind the gate. I’ve had them hang up the diverter.

I took off the apron on for the first time to do a little cleaning.
It really needs it!
One thing leads to another ….
In any case, is painting the bracket blue too much?
Before and after .

5C26C721-F2A3-47E5-8F0C-F55915F85E78 (resized).jpeg

Looks nice...about to do a teardown...more stuff is to do...pffft<L

Are you going to make it another showpiece?

The more I clean, the more things I see wrong.
In addition to new flipper bats, Looks like I’ll be needing new EOS switch’s.
Or should I just buy the flipper rebuild kit?
This would be my first crack at rebuilding flippers.
I figure I can always beg for help…

0A8CA1D1-5EA7-4AE5-AA49-FEA7F3CA8208 (resized).jpeg

92431AE0-F755-479D-809F-D1D8AC66F32D (resized).jpeg

@sprudeldudel

I found them here:

http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/coil_wrappers.htm

They print pretty much the correct size and color.
If you need the file(s) with the logo, copy the link and remove
the "_text" from the link to get the other file.

will order new targets and 1x magnet coil(i have a bad one)</blockquote

Looking at your list,
It looks like you’re missing the entire knocker, just buy the assembly.

Monkfe is 100% on the brackets.
Unless they’re broken / cracked they don’t wear out.

Personally,
I would make sure everything works 100% before I would attempt a PF swap or overlay simply to know that it worked 100% before the swap.
God luck!

Paseb
I posted My previous reply kind of goofy.
I aggree with monkfe, unless they’re cracked or Broken, the brackets should be fine.
Looking at your list , it looks like you need the entire knocker. Why not just buy the knocker assembly?l

I need one!

monkfe
Are you going mirrior polish or brushed finish on the metal ramps?

I’m no expert but I bought mine with that error. Yes , it was broke. From what I learned, that error can mean just about anything . My limited educated guess is you have a board issue. My recommendation is to contact Clive at coin op cauldron, send him your MPU and CPU board at least and have him do his magic.

The saga continues…
I undertook my first flipper rebuild.
What I once thought was an ominous task was actually a piece of cake especially Considering my limited newbie rebuild and repair experience.
I get absolutely no spousal appreciation so I thought I’d post it here.
They work great and No errors!
Very proud of me .

And thanks all yous guys for all the help in the past.

Although. I did get a new error. Have a bad switch wish I knew before I ordered my rebuild part…
I hate shipping costs…

E4A501A8-0607-4CD3-9480-1DB500219A98 (resized).jpeg

First, thanks guys for the kudos!
The rebuild kit, coils and bushings were from Pinball Life.
Their prices we a bit better than Marco. I like Marco but they are a bit more expensive.
I Cleaned and painted the brackets, tumbled everything else. It wasn’t nearly as hard as I thought it would be.
Put it all back together and it works! no errors except for a switch i didn’t know was bad. It will be on my next order..

Kawydud

Thanks for the kind words!
I’ts funny , I was able to print the wrappers with the “Williams logo” on a color printer and they look great. I was going to re wrap the new coils but, i just left them alone since they’re new.

golfergordy

The red coil is a bit less powerful than the blue coil as the top right flipper only has a short shot. I’m guessing it puts a bit less bashing on the top part of the playfield.
I found some coil strength guidance on pinball life’s site I’ve added a picture of it.

D8F89308-BE34-4DA4-9522-B369A6938FF6 (resized).jpeg

I think the part you’re looking for is 02-4426-1.
The parts list only shows 1. Page 2-36 in the manual.
Almost looks like someone drilled through your play field. If that’s the case , you’ve got some choices to make…
You can install a post 02-4036 ( I think) and use a bumper instead of a star post.
You can fill it and then use the correct post and star post which should hide any filler repair.
You could also light that star post with a blue or red flame post light from comet. I might do that myself.
There’s also a new style clear post that looks like a Dalek from dr who. They’re kinda cool looking but I think less spectacular than the faceted star post.
I currently have a screw in post with a super band bumper.
I would use a chrome acorn nut to top it off because they’re Shiny.

Merry I’m sure some other folks have additional ideas / opinions. Seems like that star post is one of the most discussed
parts on this playfield.

A775F0B8-66D2-4362-9A3A-F6D21359B4D0 (resized).jpeg

Here’s a link to those post lights.
They also have UV.

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/star-post-lights?variant=31455404359782

I just noticed, the left wire ramp should be on the outside of the asselerator ramp assembly. Looks like it’s on the inside of the ramp. I’m guessing the ball must hit it a bit…

Paseb
The cab looks a good !

Where Did you order the decals from?
When you installed them, did you trim at the corner or an 1/8” in from the corners

I’m looking for some advise. I need to work on my cabinet.

Has anyone installed the lighted speaker pannel?

I’m just wondering what peoples experience has been.

Picking up a Getaway in the next few days. Needs a few things I could use some advice on:
1. Needs new lights since many are burnt out or replaced with bad LEDs - any recommendations?

Comet 4smd non ghosting LEDs are the way to go. For the inverts I like to match color for color. Use Pink under all the yellow inserts. It makes them a bright yellow! Even in the tragic light. I like daylight frosted for the playfield

Many people like all white under the plastics others like myself, have fun with colors.

Mr_Tantrum
Making me jelly..
Your In For a ton o fun!
Looking forward to your in depth playfield swap documenting every single screw.
I’ll prob need it for when I loose my mind and go for it myself.

CoasterG
I replied to your post but somehow goofed it up..
So In case you didn’t see it…
I highly recommend Comit LEDs
I color matched under the playfield color for color with 4smd non ghosting Lamps.
For yellow, use pink lights. They make a bright yellow even in the tragic light.
Frosted bulbs for under the plastics .
It’s your pin make it yours. Have fun with it.
There are Tons of add lighting effects you can use.

I just discovered I can shoot the ball by using the flippers.
How did I not know this?

Hi All,
I just got done , we’ll mostly done,
Putting everything back together after installing a new pin sound board, speakers and lit back panel.
Turned it on and nothing started smoking, so far so good.
The only issue is my DMD is crapping out. Actually, it’s been in a slow death spiral. It has been taking a WHILE for it to “warm up” to where I can actually see some letters…

I was thinking of replacing it with a color DMD however, they are out of production- They need chips from China….

Quick Question, I just noticed that there’s a missing pin where the ribbon cable plugs in. Is it soupy to be missing?
Thank you in advance..

723F828D-8FDF-49E1-BB37-6756B8E4553C (resized).jpeg

Hi everyone,
I’m looking for some help.
Installed a pin sound recently.
I’m having issues;the music stops playing shortly after the ball is in play and all I hear for the most part are all the effects . Once the ball drains, the music starts. I’m thinking I have an issue with a switch. Something is “stuck” ?
Maybe a flipper or EOS switch? The “Turbo charger sound “ gets actuated often.
This might be related… if the ball drains while free ride is blinking, the shooter doesn’t fire the ball. The machine waites and then starts firing coils to find the ball until it finally shoots.
Another issue I’m having is with my DMD. When I first turn it on it looks like garbage. After an hour or so it looks fine.
Power issue at the DMD. Anyone know what the voltages should be?
Yes I have several issues wondering if they are all related. One correction to fix them all.
I’m planning on having kids over this weekend was hoping to play with the new sound.
Anyone have an idea where to start?

My HS2 developed a new problem.
The playfield doesn’t power up.
No lights at all, no flippers no DMD, nothing. The pinsound boots up.
I think all the connectors are tight.
I don’t know where to start looking.
Any suggestions ?

Mancave
I unplugged j101 and plugged it back in. Flipped on the powe and I’m good to go!
I Kurds I diddnt check that one.
Thanks!

Mancave
It happened again
No DMD
no playfield lights
Ugggggg

Making up a new connecter is easy enough. I’ve made a few. Need to order some molex connectors . I wonder if Radio shack in Toms River might have some….

This is what’s a bit strang.
I messed with the connector last night and it didn't do anything. But I kept the machine on. I turned it off and back on then presto, it’s all lit up .
That leads me to believe something else might be going on. I had the MPU repaired, maintenances & tested. A year or so ago. I would imagine it’s still in proper working order.
The DMD also acts a bit strange. It lights up but looks like static. After a half hour or so, the static turns into the proper grafix.
Not sure what else I should look at.
Any advice is appreciated .

Mr_Tantrum
I need some expert advice .
My pinsound on the HS2 is acting a lil strange and I’m wondering if you can shed some light. Preliminarily , I’m thinking some switch or an EOS is causing this issue.
I took off the glass,
Started a game , music plays, I hit all the bumpers and switches all is good once I hit the right flipper. The music stops and a new sound (I think it’s the turbo sound). So, no music but this aggravating turbo sound I till the ball drains or hits the kick out saucer.
Then music starts again till I hit the flipper.
Any idea?

Mr_Tantrum
I’m not sure everything was 100% from the start.
I installed the card.
Downloaded various orchistrations onto the usb I purchased with the card and the headset station.
I believe it’s a prolonged engine rev i hear.
It happens on all orchistrations and is quite annoying.

I’m not sure what you mean by “initiating a psrec on the usb” take the usb out ,
Plug it in The computer , open sound studio and see what that sound is for sure?
I haven’t messed around with sound studio yet. Too much good stuff you already made!

I started a game, hit all the switches with a ball, ramps lock and all is well. Hit the right flipper, the music ends and that awfull sound starts playing….
Ugggg
I really think somthing is triggering that sound as opposed to the memory usb