WOW. ULTIMATE BALL TRAIL.

Clean that stuff off and get ready to watch the ball FLY.

I would bet you're right!

Just order new ones from wherever you usually get parts.

That's what I was saying. If they're shiny and clean they're good.

I knew that would do the trick!!

Bwahahahaha!!

I love it when you see a HUMP sign but there is a B label over the H. I always think "I know what you REALLY say!"

Mid run change... Probably the 11630 couldn't quite make the long shot around the back and up the ramp as consistently as the 11629.

Joining the chase this weekend... pretty stoked, have wanted to GETAWAY for years!

Got my Getaway last night and tore down the topside today... PF is pretty nice but my plastics are looking kinda rough... bad yellowing, some warps and a couple breaks. Anyone have an extra plastics set they'd part with?

Making good progress on my Getaway!

Got some plastics lined up, big thanks to everyone who sent suggestions. I went with a used selection from the marketplace.

Still looking for a translite (decent used is great, I have a janky repro now) and a A-12688L, which is the rollover switch for the left rear lane. Anyone got either of these they can part with?

Found the switch at TPR. Still looking for a translite!

That would be awesome, please let me know how it works out!

Decal suggestion... how about a “no logo” version?

Also while you’re in the decal biz, one to cover the metal plate between the targets and the pop bumper would be pretty brilliant.

Wow tiltmaster, that thing is INSANE!

How do you like the backglass? Looks great in the pix but I’d sure like to see one in person. I love the idea of a backglass but it might be a little overkill for my game... for now anyways.

How’s your old translite? Any interest in sending it to a new home? I have a pretty sketchy repro right now.

That lit speaker panel looks awesome.

Still hoping to find a new plastics set while I get the last few bits together for this playfield... should have grabbed the one from the marketplace! Any more leads?

Well my originals look like crap and had a few busted so I bought a lot of used plastics to replace the busted ones and they actually look even worse.

SO...if you decide to sell please let me know!

I have a spare, unbroken but “yellowed” and pretty dinged up:

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Hit me up if you want it and it’s yours.

Sent.

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Topside done!

Not bad for a sketchy players game!!

Any tips on bulletproofing the up/down ramp? When i got the game it had a ramp error, and was doing the thing where it just goes up and down over and over... so I fiddled with it, and got it working (yas!) but last night it came back. Works pretty much spot on in test. Went in, bent the switch actuator down a bit, seems fine again? My first instinct is replace the micro switch of course, but I’ll be damned if it doesn’t seem 100%... any thoughts?

That looks great!

What the heck is with the giant yellow traffic light anyways? I’ve never seen one that looks like that.

I’m sure it looks better than new, but wooo, for $165 and it still being the flimsy stock part underneath I don’t know.

Might be interested in your plastics. PM me if you want to work a deal!

Well, my supercharger has taken a dump. Game started up with a credit dot, and supercharger no workie. Popped the PF, reseated connectors, gave it a try. Worked in test, and worked once in game but after that nothing. I’m looking straight at those supercharger boards under the PF... anyplace else I should be looking?

Will do. Assuming the fuse is good since it was working intermittently.

Accelerator board is FILTHY and has what looks to be some corrosion so this is gonna be fun.

Thanks for the suggestions and directions, I’ll dive in tomorrow and see what I can see.

Reflowed the pins and it seems to be fine again, let’s see how long it lasts. Thanks for all the suggestions guys.

Pretty sure Planetary Pinball has those same decals listed for $225.

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Thanks @Jakusu!

That’s what it seems like. You rarely see a Johnny Mnemonic where the red hasn’t faded to yellow, or a TZ where the reddish sunset hasn’t become a sickly pale, but games like Creature and Addams seem to keep their color pretty well.

It would be cool if someone did custom art for the Getaway cab, gotta admit even in good shape it’s not a beauty.

I’m a little shocked the “white” lines were originally red!! That’s unbelievable fade.

Mine is basically the same.

That will be cool.

I just keep telling myself you don’t play the cab... I did do a little touch up and will do a little more but besides that it is probably what it’s gonna be.

ColorDMD all day. Pinsound is cool for sure, but ColorDMD just really makes it happen.

They’re both great, depending on your tastes. I like the LED for the stock fit and the colors pop, but the LCD has smoothing options and some people prefer it’s color shading abilities over the LEDs boldness... I own some of both, but since I don’t go for the smoothing modes that’s kinda lost on me!

How does the plastic there hold up? I made myself one but was afraid that between the target bank beneath and the Supercharger support that it wouldn’t stand a chance so I kept the metal piece under it.

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Hmm. I’ve never noticed ghosting on any of my LED games (WCS94, Judge Dredd and Stern Star Trek) and Dredd even has a similar video mode called Pursuit with a car weaving around on a street with a dark background, so I don’t think you have anything to be worried about.

Is it normal for the rear ramp to kind of “kip up” (when it’s already in the up position) when you shoot an orbit or launch a ball?

I feel like I might be missing something... aluminum sleeve? Please elaborate.

Ball isn’t hitting it, it clears, but it’s like it pops up a little extra. It doesn’t feel like it’s all the way up but it has clearance.

I’m replacing the switch but it seems like I might have another issue going on.

Check the pins on your accelerator board. Might need to be reflowed.

Look for cracks in the solder around the pins.

That black mark just looks like a dirt smudge or something. Burned pins and connectors usually look more browned. You’d need to remove the connectors and pull the board out to examine the pins.

Does anyone know if you can get the little brass bushing from the rear ramp locks magnet core anyplace? Mines really mangled and while it might not be the issue I’m running out of reasons for my lift ramp not to work. I’m down to that bushing and possibly an incorrect spring.

Never mind, found it at Marco.

Thank you for this post! I know it’s a few years old but it helped me diagnose my mars light issue and now it WORKS!!

I have my LCD running DOTXL in Getaway right now, looks great. I don’t use the HIRES mode tho, so on the rest of my games I have LED and they all loom great too.

They’re really not THAT different. If you want to run smoothing modes like 8 bit or Hi Res, get the LCD. It also will run in a dots mode too, so you don’t really lose anything. Some poeple feel that the LCD has a smoother color transfer, although as the original display was just like what, 6 shades, I’ve never really noticed.

If you want a stock dot look, but in color, go LED. The LED has a boldness than the LCD just doesn’t, some people love it, some say it’s harsh. It is adjustable tho.

The animations aren’t smoother on one or the other, it’s all just how the graphics look.

I usually get LED because to me it feels more in tune with the original display, but in color. However I have my “roaming” LCD display in Getaway now (on Dot XL) and it looks just fine.

Usually if you just can’t decide I say get an LCD because at least then you get all the options.

Wow I gotta admit it looks better than most. Might need to set mine for Hi Res!

Rottendog boards have been fine for me. You could also just go color DMD.

Right, both LED and LCD run off the 5v from J116 on the power board, and the power from the DMD board is unused.

You won’t go wrong either way, but if you’re torn, get the LCD. It will do dots and the various smoothing modes, and Getaway actually looks really good in HiRes.

Probably loose or flaky optos in the supercharger.

Of course they do, as soon as I piecemealed a quasi-decent set together with used plastics and novus.

Maybe they’re better now that they’re using the digital printing?

Check the supercharger entrance optos. I bet they’re intermittent. Maybe a good cleaning will help but I bet it’s time to replace them.

Maybe getting a bounce back? Is the wire gate intact?

Does it happen a lot to you? I think I’ve only had it happen once... and I just power cycled. It hurt to throw away a decent game but thems the breaks.

It’s not much more to just replace the whole board. Although I guess that’s a nice solution in a pinch.

More Getaway trouble... started a game this morning and the Supercharger wasn’t working. Diverter works in test but all opto switches on the Supercharger are dead. Reseated all the connectors on the Supercharger board under the PF and restarted and now getting a check fuses 114 and 115 error. Huh. Fuses test good. Game still boots and plays a game and Supercharger still doesn’t work. Tried disconnecting the Supercharger and rebooting again and no change, check 114 and 115, game will still start and play.

Game has a new cpu board and a recently serviced driver board. Seems like all the usual LEDs are lit.

Any ideas?

Little update: had a broken wire at J212 causing switch 24 always closed to be open, that seems to have fixed the check 114 and 115 message. Supercharger still not working, also noticed the left bank of white targets 86 - 88 are also non responsive.

Another update: That J212 connector is a wreck, gonna replace it totally and see if that solves any issues.

Okay more weirdness:

Managed to piece J212 back together. That seemed to solve the switch 24 issue. Started chasing the issue with all the supercharger optos and the l bank targets. As I was going through a switch test I heard a boop and all the optos came on. Started testing them and they work. Started testing the l bank and one triggers as opto 1 and the optos all go out again. A couple seconds later they come back on. Mash the l bank for awhile and try to recreate the error and nothing. Okay well, that’s odd.

Start a game to test the supercharger with a ball... and no sound at all. No music, no effects, and no test tones when you exit the game.

Tested fuses on the sound board, reseated all connectors and ribbon cables, no change.

What in the world is going on here? This is a game that was working fine until yesterday?!?

Hmm, good thinking. I just flip flopped the board into my CFTBL and it worked so it's probably not the board.

Supercharger is (currently) working. I've checked the boards underneath and reflowed all connections. I think the issue is somewhere on the green-grey line, maybe a bad diode or a flaky solder...

As for the sound, swapped in a known good ribbon cable, and swapped the possibly bad one into another game and no change. The "bad" one works and the "good" one doesn't change anything.

Can anyone tell me how to test for power at the sound board?

Mine was broken when I got it, I just cut the legs off and sanded down the bottom edge and just attached the sign straight to the ramp, and I actually think it looks better:

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My understanding is the leading reason Getaway is so dirty is metal on metal wear from the Supercharger. I doubt your rubber choice has a lot to do with it.

It's no harder to clean/clean under the Supercharger than under/around other fixtures on similar pins. Remove a few screws and lift up.

Even after an extensive shop on both I'm seeing much more dirt on posts and trails in Getaway than the Creature I shopped immediately before. I used the same cleaning materials and same type of rubbers... Getaway is just a dirty girl, lol.

Well, maybe it’s just me but I didn’t think it was that tough... although I’ll accept the caveat of as long as you have the slide out playfield.

I know on a lot of the early DMD games its kind of overkill but Color DMD looks really good in Getaway for some reason.

I’m pretty sure that’s just Getaway being Getaway, it really punishes inaccuracy with some amazingly frustrating rattlers. Your flipper and post setup looks correct to me, how’s your level and angle?

That looks pretty slick!

I like it, but I admit I kinda saw it different in my head. Somehow I thought you'd see the balls in the windows... although they clearly lock UNDER the building.

You don't really see them stock either with that metal plate there IIRC.

Pretty sure the screw placement is different.

Huh! That's kinda cool!

Probably to help hold it together. I’ve seen similar on other games.

Yeah you guys have the Euro style coin door, although even the US ones look like that just without the center slot. They're using a later style coin door on their games.

There was some GI removed when they went to the play field sliders from the hinge. Worth it I’d say.

Looks like you actually have 3 different flippers there, a Williams white, Williams yellow and a no logo white.

Clean em up, spray paint em and move that no logo one to the upper flipper and no one will probably ever notice!

Lol, I wasn't exactly being serious.

On my last container game (Creature) I just sprung for the full new assemblies and bats and let me tell ya, it was worth it to toss out all that old junk and start over with fresh new parts. Plus I’ll admit, they’re the newest, snappiest flippers that I’ve flipped on a game of that era, so that’s nice too.

Who knows dude. Maybe the plates warp? I dunno why, but man that Creature flips nice.

I did a more traditional rebuild on my Getaway flippers (pawl, sleeve, stop, springs and EOS) with new bats, and they're good and strong, but not as good or as strong. Bushings looked fine but I didn't replace them so that might be a thing too.

Anyways, it's certainly cheaper just to do a rebuild so that's a plus. You can get the assemblies at PBL without the coils IIRC, that saves you a few bucks. My coils were looking real sketch tho.

Exactly. I replace them every shop job on my games now, but with Getaway I got caught flat footed and had to make a call. I cleaned and inspected and they looked fine but I wouldn’t be surprised if that’s the difference maker.

Dispatch, this is 504. I've sold my Getaway and am out of the club, over.

Damn they’re shooting at us!

I’ll still follow this group tho, you guys are one of the best. Always tons of great tips and interactions.