Getaway: High Speed II, The
Williams, 1992You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider enkiktd.
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Question about the hairpin turn bracket (the one that there is a mod decal to cover up). My getaway doesn't have that bracket. I checked 3 machines at the NWPAS and 2/3 didn't have the bracket either. Is this normal?
What does this bracket do?
Well hopefully you guys don't mind me around because woo boy do I have a hacked up Getaway. I'm trying to undo the madness within and here's my first question:
On J115 there's some wires spliced in, it's crazy town. Following these leads to the transformer. What is this connector/are these wires supposed to look like/connect to? These connectors are pretty scorched so whatever this person did is obviously bad for the game. Working on saving this game, undoing one bad hack at a time.
Luckily I do have a manual, just starting to dig in on that.
May go for a speaker upgrade at some point but that's a long way off, as this machine is pretty wrecked mechanically. Luckily the field looks great and I'm patient.
Quoted from tiltmonster:Hmmm.. can you post a pic on what's on the end of those colored wires? is it the molex connector? is the Molex burnt? My quick guess is that connector was burnt and the owner who rebuilt it did not know how to make the pigtail loop so they cut the wires and joined 2 wires together inside the wire nut... Here is mine rebuilt, the orange wires are my pig tail wires, it's a pain in the butt but this is how it should look.
Do your J115 yellow wires go directly to the transformer? Could you possibly provide me with a closer picture of your J114, J115 and J120 connectors? These all have the same issues on mine and I want to fix them up the correct way, even if it is a pain. No hurry, just whenever it's convenient for you. This is a long project, there's much much worse to deal with on this machine. 
I have a new board to replace it, I'm just working on repinning the connectors and making sure I'm not going to burn my new board. I used the schematic and he had all the right wires in the connector in the right place. We will pigtail it correctly and convert it to LEDs.
Quoted from tiltmonster:Yes, that's the issue with that setup, toasty pins and molex... LED bulbs will help reduce the load but those pins and that board will require work. You'll need to rebuild that connector but you're wasting your time in doing so if you do not repair-replace that driver board.
Is that 18 or 14 gauge wire on your pigtail?
Quoted from tiltmonster:Good job +1
This is our first project anywhere near this magnitude of work so I appreciate all the assistance!
Yeah we have rebuilt almost every connector because whoever this person was, they spliced into every single wire they could draw power from for their hacky coin door. Once all is said and done it'll be about 3 days worth of work total to undo these hacks, which isn't too bad.
The cabinet on the other hand... if I get this game running I might just have to get a new one. The cut is so severe on the front.
Can this shifter be used to replace the Getaway shifter, if the correct decal is applied over it?
https://na.suzohapp.com/products/driving_controls/50-8110-00
Or this one?
https://na.suzohapp.com/products/driving_controls/50-8018-00
Quoted from enkiktd:Can anyone take a quick picture of J1 on the high current driver board? My connector looks factory but it doesn't match the schematic. Wondering if I should leave it or match it to the schematic.
Bump, hopefully someone can help out! This is one board I don't want to fry!
So we rebuilt all three flippers on the re-import Getaway and I'm noticing that all of the coils (except the flippers) on the game are AE-26-1700, except one AE-26-1500. Referencing the manual these are totally wrong, and I suspect the operator just swapped them out for whatever was on hand (why, I don't know). Should I bite the bullet, spend ~$125 and replace all coils per the manual?
I am so close to having this dirty reimport working. We are having an issue with the upper right flipper where if we go into starting test mode or starting a game, that flipper sticks up. If we test that coil individually in test mode, it works completely fine. All wiring looks correct, diodes check out fine, have tried a new fliptronic board. Transistors seems fine, switches are new and good. When the game ends, the flipper goes down. Anyone experience this before?
Quoted from MustangPaul:What the heck kind of button set up have you got on your game? That's not stock whatever it is. It looks like a jacked fix to me. That's what's causing your problem. I'll bet the other button doesn't look like that.
This was a really rough reimport, we basically had to rewire most of the machine. We have had to replace a lot of hacked/wrong parts, so this is not a surprise. We've ordered new ones for both sides.
These are just some of the things we've had to repair, including a "custom" coin door that involved someone using a saw on the cabinet to extend the hole downward. Power was spliced into everywhere and I'm pretty sure there was some burning at some point, the high current board was toasty.
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Mill Creek, WA
