(Topic ID: 78179)

Getaway Club ~ Dispatch, run a make on license plate KINGPIN

By MrSanRamon

10 years ago


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  • 13,738 posts
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  • Latest reply 3 days ago by firehawk618
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“Which S/W Version do you use?”

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(Multiple choice - 348 votes by 346 Pinsiders)

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#11546 2 years ago

I'm not a member yet...but hopefully someone here can help me out. I am starting on an HS2 scratch build. Would someone mind posting the height of the backboard? I can figure out the other dimensions based on the playfield.

Thanks!

1 week later
#11564 2 years ago

Thank you very much!

6 months later
#12099 1 year ago

I'm looking for the lengths of the 3 wood rails in HS2. Can anyone here help? Its for a scratch build I'm working on.

Thanks in advance!

#12102 1 year ago
Quoted from monkfe:

40in , 7 3/8, 36 1/4....just happened to have them handy

Fantastic! Thanks so much!

3 weeks later
#12141 1 year ago

Does anyone here happen to have measurements for the location of the playfield pivot nuts as measured from the bottom and rear of the cabinet? I'm working on a scratch build.

Thanks in advance for the help!

1 month later
#12274 1 year ago
Quoted from Walamab:

Does anyone here happen to have measurements for the location of the playfield pivot nuts as measured from the bottom and rear of the cabinet? I'm working on a scratch build.
Thanks in advance for the help!

Just a bump to see if someone might help with the pivot locations for an HS2 with slide rails

#12278 1 year ago
Quoted from THJM:

He said slide with an L not side. I believe he may be making a cabinet and needs to know where the holes in the cabinet for the slide pivot and slides are, but just guessing.

Yes, I am scratch building an HS2. The only piece of data that I don't have for the cabinet is the location of the pivot nuts on each side of the cab.

The earliest HS2 units have only a single playfield pivot nut like TAF. The "newer" ones use the slides that let you pull the playfield forward and lock it in place so the back of the playfield can be more easily reached.

The "slide" version uses two pivot nuts on each side. I need to know where to drill these four holes in the cabinet.

Hopefully this provides some context to my question.

Thanks for reading and responding!

#12282 1 year ago

golfergordy This is EXACTLY what I was looking for. Thanks sooo much for taking the time to take measurements and pictures.

1 month later
#12333 1 year ago

Posting here to see if anyone can help.

I am looking to buy the bracket that holds the stop light assembly for my scratch build.

If anyone has an extra or one they are willing to sell please contact me.

I would settle for measurements that I could use to fabricate one if there is no other option.

Thanks in advance for looking!

stop light bracket 2 (resized).jpgstop light bracket 2 (resized).jpg

#12336 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Here is my final design

Thank you for responding. Do you sell these?

#12340 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Sure. I’d be willing to take the time to test and modify with the original stoplight if you are interested.

Thank you for the offer. I may just take your suggestion about re-designing my own support. I could have one cut out of stainless like the original but (like you said) add a tab that allows connection to the plastic in addition to the post.

If I hit a brick wall with my re-design, I will bug you again to see if you are still willing to take a look at modifying yours .

Thanks again!

1 week later
#12396 1 year ago

Hello everyone. I've got another scratch build question that I hope someone here can answer. I'm trying to determine if there is a logical way the playfield GI wiring is routed. From the pictures I've found in this thread, it is difficult to tell. It seems that Org/Org Wht and Brn/Brn Wht pairs of the GI strings are on both sides so it isn't "left & right". I'd appreciate any pictures that might help clarify the GI wire routing.

Thanks in advance for the help...(again) !

#12409 1 year ago

Hello again everyone. I've got a significant request for the GI on my HS2 build. So, if it is too much, feel free to ignore it.

I'm hoping someone would be kind enough to run the GI test on their machine and take a couple of pictures of the playfield with individual playfield strings on full (8). I think this will be an easier way to determine what lamps are wired to which strings.

Your help is appreciated!

#12415 1 year ago
Quoted from BoilerUp:

I took a couple of pictures with the glass on but the glare is terrible. I am pulling the glass later today or tomorrow to change a few coils and will take pics then if someone hasn’t already beaten me to it.

Thanks so much! Whenever is convenient for you is great for me.

#12419 1 year ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

I took some pictures of my game last night running the GI strings

Thank you. This helps a lot I can see enough to hopefully confirm a several of the lamps that I could not confirm.

Thanks again!

2 months later
#12503 1 year ago
Quoted from ktcoady12:

oh man- I did it this time

Can you get a picture of what is going on behind that coil?

Some things to check...Make sure the supercharger and left ramp aren't hitting the glass trim at the back. Make sure the wiring harness isn't caught between the back board the top of the lower cabinet. Make sure the spring-loaded catches on the sliding rails are disengaged and allow the playfield to slide backward. check to see if a portion of the wiring harness is wrapped around any of the pivot nut posts that support the slide rails.

Don't panic...just work with it. I'll do my best to help.

1 month later
#12674 1 year ago

I've been scratch building a Getaway and decided to use a more "modern" police light instead of the spinning MARS lamp. I've got it working and here are the results.

#12676 1 year ago
#12683 1 year ago
Quoted from golfergordy:

That looks like a great alternative

It needs a DC-DC buck converter to drop the +20VDC power to +12VDC at J106-5. But it works quite well. I got my converters here...https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C2QF1T1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

#12689 1 year ago
Quoted from golfergordy:

I'm not an electrical guy, so pardon my ignorance (if I'm not making sense here), but doesn't the 12VDC for the mars light come from J-104?, and if so, what's the need to step down 20VDC to 12V at J-106?

J104-4-5 provides 20VAC which is what the motor for the MARS lamp requires. The LED bar needs 12VDC. I could have tapped the +12VDC at J116-2-3, J117-2-3 J118-2-3 or J114-1-2 but this services the switch matrix, the display the fliptronics board and the playfield and I didn't want to over tax that circuit. J106-5 provides 20VDC for backbox/lamp insert panel flashers. It just made more sense to me to use this as a source.

1 month later
#12740 1 year ago

I'm hoping someone can help me with some part measurements for my HS2 scratch build. This is the last piece I need to complete the machine.

I'm looking for dimensions for the ball stop behind the saucer/hole under the "mountain". I need the lengths of each of the straight sections of the bent part as well as the welded "cap". I also need the thickness of the metal and the width of the part (should be the same for both pieces). The sizes and positions of the holes would also be very helpful. I've numbered the measurements I need in the included pic.

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.

mountain ball stop (resized).pngmountain ball stop (resized).png
#12743 1 year ago
Quoted from golfergordy:

I think the pics show everything you asked for. The mat'l is stainless steel, thickness of 1/16", micrometer read .060".

golfergordy THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!! I'm gonna have to put your name on this thing some where when it is finished. These are exactly what I need!

1 week later
#12753 1 year ago
Quoted from golfergordy:

Please put my name on the underside of a leg leveler.

@golfergordy
The dimensions were perfect. Here’s the one I made.
Thanks again for the help!

D932453C-F49C-46D8-AF68-EBC8A3D4525F (resized).jpegD932453C-F49C-46D8-AF68-EBC8A3D4525F (resized).jpegF6DD7F5F-6E3E-4BB4-8DE1-9CBFB7B52E42 (resized).jpegF6DD7F5F-6E3E-4BB4-8DE1-9CBFB7B52E42 (resized).jpeg
#12756 1 year ago
Quoted from golfergordy:

You do fine looking metalwork.
When will we see the finished Getaway?

Its hard to say specifically when I will finish. The cabinet and electronics are all complete and tested to the extent that is possible without a playfield installed.

I now have ALL of the required parts and have started wiring the playfield. Thanks to the GI map you sent me, the GI circuites are complete. Controlled lamps are next followed by switches matrix and then the coils and flashers. There's probably 2 weeks of word to get it put together and another week to troubleshoot.

BUT, work has gotten crazy busy lately (not necessarily a bad thing) so my build time is down a to a few hours on the weekends when I don't have something planned with the family .

Right now I'm hoping to finish by the end of June. I'll be sure to post pictures.

1 week later
#12776 1 year ago
Quoted from rvermeire:

Which post is used in this location under the supercharger ?

That is the unobtanium one. The part number is 02-4423-1. The top threading is extra long. I had a machinist fried take a 02-4450 and drill/tap it. I then used a cut off and then cut off a screw to the correct length to screw into the taped hole. Only about 3 threads make contact but so far it seems to work.

HS2 post (resized).PNGHS2 post (resized).PNG
#12778 1 year ago
Quoted from rvermeire:

So is it this one ? without 1 at the end in the code.... (on stock)

Unfortunately it isn't that one. The "short" end is too short to go through the two pieces of metal and have room for a nylock nut. The -1 in the part number designates the longer top threading.

2 months later
#13072 10 months ago
Quoted from Acronymicon:

Hey guys, I am in the market for some Getaway cabinet decals and was looking for recommendations.

I got a set from Classic Arcades, but the sizing seemed off, the vinyl pretty thin, and I see screens of other restorations with a darker red (might just be my monitor graphics card settings though).

any guidance would be appreciated.

I used the ones from PPS and they look great. The "red" is a glow in the dark red/orange and glows like crazy under black light (if that is what you are looking for). Only little thing is that there isn't much "bleed" so you have to position them carefully so the "seam" is under the metal side rails. Here's a link. https://www.planetarypinball.com/pinball-HS2-CABSET.

1 month later
#13117 8 months ago

Just joined the club!

I built this one from "scratch" for my son. Many thanks (in no particular order) to golfergordy for the measurements and GI mapping, Pinballer22 for reaching out and offering to sell me the playfield, wallybgood for answering a myriad of questions, DumbAss for advice on the electronics, NoahFentz for the fantastic cabinet, and others who I don't have pinside handles for (hopefully you know who you are). If I forgot someone here, please accept my appologies.

This one is a keeper!

HS2-photo (resized).jpgHS2-photo (resized).jpg
#13119 8 months ago
Quoted from wallybgood:

Nice job, Cary! Looks beautiful. Which parts that are NLA did you end up fabricating?
Wally

Believe it or not, there were only two parts I had to fab. The bracket that attaches the the left ramp to the backboard and the ball stop behind the eject hole.

Oh, I also had to make the backboard...almost forgot about that one.

#13128 8 months ago
Quoted from golfergordy:

Cary, I'm glad you finally finished this ambitious project - glad I could help. How about posting a few more pics.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Yes, more photos, please.

I'll do a "photo shoot" this week. I'll try to capture a video as well.

#13136 8 months ago
Quoted from golfergordy:

How about posting a few more pics.

Here’s some more pics of my “scratch” built HS2.

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#13144 8 months ago
Quoted from golfergordy:

On a scratch build like this, do you assign it a serial # ?

No serial number but I did sign and date it on the inside for posterity .

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