(Topic ID: 78179)

Getaway Club ~ Dispatch, run a make on license plate KINGPIN

By MrSanRamon

5 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 9,916 posts
  • 369 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 hours ago by Malenko
  • Topic is favorited by 171 Pinsiders


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“Which S/W Version do you use?”

  • L1 17 votes
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(Multiple choice - 270 votes by 269 Pinsiders)

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#104 5 years ago

Might as well jump on the wagon as well.

Here is mine with some of the usual mods: Donut Heaven, proto mountain and LED. I also added LED to the flipper buttons as well. As for the mountain plastic, I prefer the graphic version vs having it clear (tried a clear piece) - I however cut the play field plastic that is now hidden by the mountain to allow light up to the plastic illuminating it to shed some light in the dark area. I also added a spot light to shine on the mountain that I mounted to the super charger.

IMG_0429 [800x600].JPG

IMG_0431 [800x600].JPG

1 week later
#118 5 years ago
Quoted from Mudflaps:

Currently looking for the blue flasher mod... any ideas? Plug and play or DIY instructions would be awesome.

Yea, I messaged BR about buying from him as well and no answer. But a search of eBay turned up this (old link): ebay.com link » 2 X 22 Led Set Car Lightflash Flashing Modes Strobe Emergency Grill Light Blue

But I had to buy 2 sets though to get 2 blues - same setup that BR was selling. I just spliced into the power for the beacon to run these. I opened the box and also soldered across the mode button that I wanted as I didn't want to use the 'tie wrap' method - while it was apart I noticed that the power is rectified so even though the beacon power is AC power no worries.

#125 5 years ago
Quoted from badpenny61:

Would you have a picture of this. I bought some off Amazon and would like to do the same, until B_R sends me a set.

Quoted from Mudflaps:

I'll provide free burgers and Shasta if we can get a quick mini-tutorial... maybe with some pictures? Thanks for the ebay link!

I will write something up tonight with some pictures of the power connection connection and mod to the inside of the box.

#127 5 years ago

Flasher mod.

First I just wanted to say that I have no idea who came up with this mod in the first place and what I am about to show was inspired by Black_Rose and is based on what he had previously posted.

[edit] - credit goes to KoolMoeCraig for coming up with this mod - thanks for the idea.

The purpose of this is to add blue LED flashers to the cabinet, I added mine to the top. The wires for the lights feed into the back box via the grills on the back.

IMG_0435 [800x600]-407.JPG

Module prepped. I wanted to use some Molex connectors vs. just splicing in the power so I crimped on some pins. Male 0.093 pins at the y (red circle) and female pins at the other ends. The tie wrap was part of Black Rose's documentation for selecting which mode you wanted displayed (I wanted A flash 3 times one side and then 3 times opposite side and repeat). I later decided to modify the module to eliminate the tie wrap as IMHO it didn't look very nice. The unit has no memory, so the switch has to always be pressed so that your selected mode is active when power is applied.

IMG_0438 [800x600].JPG

To modify the module, all I did was basically short out the A switch inside. Bottom cover removed. The 2 pins that are circled are where the switch closes the circuit on the board to select A mode (screw driver points to the A button).

IMG_0440a [800x600]-352.jpg

I just added enough solder to bridge the pins that are circled above.


Here is where I screwed the module in the back box. BTW the wires for the lamps on top I have passing through the grill - they will not fit as is, I removed the pins from the housing (paid attention to which one went where just in case) and passed the wires through and then reinserted the pins back into the housing.

IMG_0432 [800x600]-10.JPG

The power was taken from the beacon supplied power (which is AC, but the module has a rectifier inside to convert it to DC so all is good). Here is a close up of how I have the power hooked up. Basically I picked up some 0.093 Molex connectors and pins to make it look 'neat'. Basically unplugged the Beacon from the resistor board and inserted the module.


Basically, the blue LED lights flash any time the beacon is on.

#128 5 years ago

Another mod I did was to add LED's to the flipper buttons. Just got some 90° 44 sockets along with some 44 red flex LED's. Positioned the sockets with the bulb installed so I can get the proper position without them causing any interference and screwed them into the side of the cabinet.

I removed the connectors from the lamp power from the start switch, crimped some spade connectors on some wire for the flipper button LED's and connected them all together. The flipper LED's are wired in parallel with the start button so they light when the start buttons does. Wire was run for the right flipper over top the coin door opening and tie wrapped out of the way.

IMG_0437 [800x600].JPG

#132 5 years ago

Here is a picture of the solder points that you will need to short out for the different modes (mark A B C) - only short one out at any time (I don't think it will cause a problem, just no ideal what the result would be). I would suggest trying each mode first and see which one you like.


2 weeks later
#164 5 years ago

oooo, shiny.... drool.gif bow.gif

#167 5 years ago
Quoted from limelime20:

Alot of beautiful machines.!! Glad to be here.. I will add picks of mine soon.
Can someone be nice enough to take a picture of the hinge mechanism with the playfield straight up?
As someone mentioned earlier, I am having issues as well with the hinge mech. set-up,
I think if we can see a picture of a properly set-up one, that would help out a few of us.!

From my limited experience, what I have seen happen a few times is that they usually end up getting bent and as such don't work correctly. I will try to remember to get a picture for you.

#180 5 years ago

limelime20 - sorry for the delay:
IMG_0445 [800x600].JPG

futurepinhead - missing a post:
IMG_0443 [800x600].JPG

#182 5 years ago
Quoted from futurepinhead:

Thanks, I will try to find that size unless someone knows it off the top of their heads. Also, I love the orange post rubbers you have there, I will probably have to steal that.



#184 5 years ago
Quoted from futurepinhead:

Thanks, do you know is it machine screw or wood screw? I might have to make mine machine screw if its stripped out.

I seem to recall that it was a wood one (not 100% sure at the moment) - I think it was added later to make the loop shot a bit harder, I seem to remember reading.

#194 5 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

So I started learning the audio wiring on HS2 lastnight. I followed the two wires from the left backbox speaker. The black/yellow stripe wire goes to the audio board - got it. Where does the black wire go to? There was simply too much wire for me to follow it to its final destination.

See here for a simple break down: http://www.dziedzic.us/wpc_speaker_sound_info.html

4 months later
#366 5 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

I already tested the speaker, and it works 100%.
Now I have factory backbox speakers, this new cabinet speaker, and the Polk external subwoofer.
It gets loud in here.
I am currently working on a cross-reference set of speakers for the backbox - won't have any results for a while. I am still finishing up BSD as well as learning how to rebuild flippers. Didn't know I needed a flipper bushing until after the order came in .... thankfully I didn't start the rebuild yet.

I used these in my Getaway:

BB speakers


Cross-over for the bottom speaker

Cabinet speaker

#369 5 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

For your BB speakers, did those replacements hook right up with zero modifications? One of the factory speakers looks to be 3.5" and the other 5.25" - which would mean to me their mounting points are differently spaced.
How did it work for you?

I cut the hole larger on the 1 side, so there is no going back - but the sound quality is so much better than before.

5 months later
#638 4 years ago
Quoted from BigDan:

Hi everybody! I just got HS2 last week and it is my very first pin. While playing it yesterday the sound started cutting in and out which led to the sound not working at all. I checked all the fuses and pushed on all the connectors, adjusted the volume, inspected the speakers and nothing helped. The only solution to the problem I came up with after searching was a replacement sound board.

1) check power at the board.
2) check for cold solder joints on the connectors for both the sound board and power supply (actually IMHO it doesn't hurt to check all boards). Unplug the game and remove the boards and look at the backside.
3) re-seat the EPROMs and any other socket IC's (make sure game unplugged)

2 months later
#778 4 years ago
Quoted from GixerEd1:

I have the same pin combo, in the same configuration - Getaway: HS2 on the left and F-14 Tomcat on the right!

...as do I - what are the chances...

#807 4 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

My inspiration came from MustangPaul but I know others have done this. The lighting is pretty strong back there so thinking of a way to dial it down with a proper diffuser. Any ideas? I know it is hidden but still want it to look decent.

I ended up using a couple of spot lights in the area. I tried the strips and didn't care too much for the light. I ended up with purple LED's, 1 super bright and 1 regular (the super bright is pointing towards the left). I will have to try and remember to post some pictures.

MustangPaul - thanks for the suggestion (re: kick out hole) - didn't even think of that one and will have to add it.

#814 4 years ago

Ok, here is what I did for the left rear:

IMG_0726 [800x600].JPG

IMG_0730 [800x600].JPG

The spotlight pointing to the left (when viewed from playing position) is a super bright (4 LED), the other one is just "normal" (1 LED) as the super bright was way too bright and over powered the area IMHO.

I still have to do the saucer...

#820 4 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

You have to solder in those spotights, right?

if you want to.

I have the 2 soldered together and then just run some wire down and use some alligator clips and clip onto a GI bulb.

3 weeks later
#879 4 years ago

If you have access to a lathe, just bore the shaft and put the wires inside.

2 months later
#986 4 years ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

Anyone else get new plastics for HS2 and notice the orange color is nowhere near as bright as the original? The original is obviously on the left. Checked all of them in the bag, all have the same light color.

Yes I have noticed that - and - my sign for the super charger isn't cut right (I did enquirer about it as well and got no reply).

(sorry about the poor picture quality).

2 weeks later
#992 4 years ago
Quoted from Tbgolfen:

Not happy with the plastics either. Pink is not orange. image.jpg

I see yours is also not cut correctly (same as mine) although it is a bit better (at least you have "some" pink along the bottom) - IMHO poor quality control on the Getaway plastics.

1 month later
#1085 4 years ago
Quoted from DocRotCod:

Wow! Seems there are quite a few people with different setups. I'd be curious to know which is correct. Hmmm.. Maybe have to ask Steve Ritchie

I suppose one could check which switch is being activated in the switch test and compared to the manuals description of said switch.

#1095 4 years ago
Quoted from DEN:

I have been playing the game like crazy.
I have got a dirty dirty dirty getaway, but am soooo happy.
Under the dust, pf looks nice, game playes flawless. Both lower flippers make airballs.
Anyone insatallet pf protector on getaway??

I have the play field protector on my unit and can't complain - I figured the extra protection couldn't hurt.

1 week later
#1200 4 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

Maybe the wires are just there for addes support ? I have this bracket installed on mine.

That is what I say since the plastic looks broken.

#1251 4 years ago

I am having a problem with my ball lock coil if anyone can help - I created a thread over here in the tech section: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-help-with-ball-lock-coil-locking-on-cpu-board-at-fault#post-2666868


1 month later
#1586 3 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

I am suddenly having an issue with my getaway. While I'm playing and the green lock arrows come on the back ramp is supposed to lower to allow the lock. It's not always doing it right away and during the time it's not lowering I'm hearing a clicking sound back there and it looks like it's trying to lower but can't. Eventually it does lower but sometimes takes a bit. Just wondering if anyone has had this issue and can point me in the right direction before I start tearing things apart to figure it out.

Mine had a similar issue (PO didn't care or notice). I had to replaced the main bracket that held the coils as it was bent (was unable to "fix" it so that it work 100% of the time) - I would check that assembly to see if anything is binding (maybe just a worn sleeve).

2 months later
#1741 3 years ago
Quoted from Chet:

I just installed the nex gen v.20 cab decals on my Whirlwind. I am not any kind of expert, but I feel like they are excellent. To, me they look and and even feel like real paint and they went on very nice using the dry method. Colors are deep and vibrant. I have not installed the HS2's decals, but I would not hesitate to get them.

This. I installed a set on a Fish Tales and the quality was top notch and the ink even felt raised.

#1744 3 years ago
Quoted from Chet:

I purchased direct from PPS.

As did I

9 months later
#3410 2 years ago

The one thing that bug me about the playfield is the missing "plate" above the targets just to the right of the super charger entrance ramp. Should also be some sort of decal there as well with a plate mounted to the top of the 2 posts.

I really need to get off my ass and do something about that.

1 month later
#4238 2 years ago

If not buying new, you could try a product like this (I know there are kits available).

7 months later
#6380 2 years ago

Re: light up panel

Ok, so seems I missed something, but where/who exactly is selling them and where?

Or is there a play-by-play on it being installed?

8 months later
#7653 1 year ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

I'm hoping someone else remakes these, not really happy with the orange color from the CPR run, looks like beige, not the bright orange it should be.

I agree not near as orange as the originals. I have not installed mine due to this - still deciding if I should sell them or not.

#7655 1 year ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

Well my originals look like crap and had a few busted so I bought a lot of used plastics to replace the busted ones and they actually look even worse.
SO...if you decide to sell please let me know!

The problem is shipping will cost you from me to you - not cheap going between Canada and the US (or the other way).

But I will keep you in mind.

1 week later
#7789 1 year ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Well yeah chrome plating on plastic, it's called vapor deposit, that's what the stock piece is. But as long as Marco still has the parts buy from them, save a lot of money. I bought mine from Marco and it looks great.

This how is they use to do it, much easier now days.

2 months later
#8144 1 year ago

That DMD board is easy to repair if you are some what handy with a soldering iron. Replace the filter caps and clean/remove old solder in the lower section and add fresh new solder. The part get hot in the area and usually create cold solder joints (which you can see in the picture posted).

Of course if you would just rather have a new board, you can't really go wrong there.

11 months later
#9513 4 months ago

Been a bit since I loitered around this thread, especially since I let my Getaway go.

That being said, I do have a set of repro plastics I am willing to sell. CPR lists them for US$169 - I will let them go for US$150 (plus shipping). Please message me if you are interested. These are unused, but the package has been opened.

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