Germantown, TN
Anyone near Memphis interested in selling to me?
(Topic ID: 78179)
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Getaway: High Speed II, The
Williams, 1992
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I downloaded the HS II pinball game to my phone. Man it's a blast! I really want the real thing
1 week later
2 weeks later
Also, if anyone here knows me, you'll know I love to mod my games.
I'll be getting a Getaway in a few weeks. It has a ColorDMD already as well as a led key start up mod. He has an led gear shifter mod not yet installed. I bought and sent him a Mezelmod police blue flasher topper mod and he is installing it.
I bought one of Sparky's MDM mods as well as Pinballifes speaker light mod. How do I install multiple mods in a Williams WPC pin? In newer Sterns I would just buy an 8 in 1 5v/12v power splitter and be good to go. I don't think that's an option because all the instructions on these install say to use the J117 connector.
Any help here guys?
1 week later
Quoted from MustangPaul:Nice. They will make your game look new.
Quoted from TxJay:Looks awesome!!!
Thanks guys. And thanks James for all the work on your end. So any thoughts on how long the decals I bought will be good for? It may be a few months before I get the new decals applied. Is it safe to keep them in whatever tube they come with?
I'm putting new rubbers on and debating whether to keep the clear star posts and go red rubbers or go red star posts and go clear rubbers.
These skinny red posts in the picture. Just for decoration? They don't see any purpose I can find:
Also
Quoted from GRUMPY:They keep balls from getting trapped on top the plastics.
Thanks Grumpy, you've been a huge help to a lot of us. What's your opinion on how best to store the cabinet decals till they are applied?
Quoted from GRUMPY:Do you have the room to store them flat, put them between two pieces of cardboard behind the back of the pinball machine.
Sure I can find space to store them in a climate controlled room and I'll get enough cardboard to lay them flat. Thanks
Quoted from Kawydud:Looking good Grinder, actually on the hunt for my third HS2, maybe I can keep this one finally.
Thanks man. It's coming along. I'm so damn torn about white, clear or red rubbers. Decisions!
So I've noticed more than a few different Getaway coin doors in this thread. What's up with that? How many variations are there?
I bought a decal for my coin door but there isn't a spot on it for the decal. I'm prob going to chrome my coin door but I'm not in love with this style door. Any thoughts?
Mine:
Others:
I disassembled my Gear Shift assembly last night installing this cool led shift knob and I did not take pictures. Very unlike me.
I'll be putting it all together later on but if someone could post some pictures from the inside of the cabinet showing me the gear shift assembly from all angles that would help me out a ton. Please
Thanks guys!
Thank you so much for the photos. I should be home in a few hours as well.
The gear shift was included in the sale from the previous owner. I'll ask the seller where he got it from.
Taking the original knob off was a pain in the butt. It's going to look so good when it gets put on in a few hours. Excited!
Ok I'm pretty sure I reassembled everything correctly however it seems to stick when I shift down and won't go back to its original position in the middle without touching it slightly. Maybe the weight of the new knob is the reason it wants to stay down? Shifting up it no prob and it comes right back to the middle.
Man it looks cool as hell!
So I feel like it's just me mostly posting in the thread. Sorry about that, just got the game and very excited.
So I'm doing a full chrome treatment with Mike Chestnut so I said why not do the supercharger too. Both the ramps have seen better days too.
Can anyone steer me towards a link to buy two new ones?
Thanks again,
I'm placing a large order. So many of the bolts on the cabinet are discolored, chipped or rusted. Since I'm doing new decals and chrome, I might as well get all new bolts especially for the front area like the four around the gear shift assembly. Care to steer me towards which bolts I'll need ?
I think the new decal set comes with the decal for the gear shift assembly which is good cuz mines in rough shape.
I mean it's a 25 year old game. It's probably changed half a dozen owners easy. Considering all that, it's in great shape. Now I'm going to do my best to bring it back to its former glory.
Quoted from SUPERBEE:Did the new shifter you put on come with a new shaft or just the knob? I'm thinking of doing that but the chrome on the shaft of my original shifter is all corroded.
Yes just the knob. You use the shaft you already have. It was a bitch to get the original knob off:
Quoted from Mancave:That's exactly the one i was talking about that will require extra work to look good in chrome, has a LOT of rivet/bolt heads showing. I bought one a while back to do the same with for my BOP but have changed my mind and gone with the original one (2 slots with a gap in the middle), far less metal work involved to get a smoooooth finish !
Thanks. I may show him both and ask him which is the better/easier/cheaper one to do
Quoted from Eryeal:Not chroming the stoplight??
I thought about it 
Quoted from dmacy:Should turn out great with all Chestnut's work and your cleaning up/extensive shop job. I recently did a playfield swap so these pics here may be of help: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hs2-playfield-swap/page/2#post-2971273
Thanks!!!! Topic added. My playfield has only a few issues and none that really warrant a full playfield replacement. I've been thinking about buying a new playfield and was offered $900 for his. I'm surprised the OCD/perfectionist in me isn't doing a full playfield swap but I don't think I need to. Years from now maybe.
Quoted from MustangPaul:WOW!!! $900...I'd do it then get the new one cleared by Kruzman.
Ah you're killing me. I'm doing new cabinet decals and the chroming. I gotta stop for a bit so I can actually enjoy the game someday soon
There are only a few spots on my playfield but most would not even be noticed by 90% of the players when everything is put back together. Considering its age. It's prob a solid 7 or 8/10. Shooter lane looks great and minimal wear at the ball eject but I'm putting a protector there anyway.
Quoted from Eryeal:Not chroming the stoplight??
Def chroming the stoplight base
Quoted from Wescobar:I fjust be that the ZZ Top soundtrack is a bit low on mine. Contemplating picking up a pinsound board and going with a full custom sounds.
I'm prob going to upgrade the speakers on mine too.
Pinsound board?
Custom sounds?
Show some pictures.
Why not take the handle off like I did and put a different handle on after chroming it?
Damn, I should have sent mine to Mike to chrome....
I ordered the cabinet decals off eBay over three weeks ago and still havent received it. NEVER again! F ing international post can suck it.
Quoted from MustangPaul:Yeah these international orders can sometimes take forever, probably just sitting at customs waiting for someone to clear it.
Yep it's been waiting on clearance for almost a week. Wtf
Quoted from Kawydud:I have a set in the basement dude, should have said something.
So I'm replacing my flippers with chrome colored ones. I noticed underneath, the flipper mechs of the lower two flippers are different into their cleanliness. The left one is filthy and the right one is clean and new looking. What causes the left one to get so dirty? How can I clean it?
Quoted from weaverj:red should be on top...
Great observation! I'll make the change.
Quoted from MustangPaul:Lookin gooood dude.
Thanks bud. Much more pimping left to do.
Quoted from TxJay:Looking great. I like the new pop bumpers and the translucent rubbers! Very nice!
Thanks man. I swapped the red and green. I agree much better.
I'm putting in three chrome/silver color flippers. I can't decide on what color rubber to use: red, black or hell maybe translucent?
Quoted from urbanledge:@grinder901
You should change then bumper bodies and skirts to clear ones.
That would look the mutts nuts
Excuse my ignorance. Bumper bodies and skirts?
Quoted from Kawydud:Getting there Grinder I installed the jeweled caps on mine with the flash lights from pinball life.
IMG_2708_(resized).JPG
Thanks man. I wanted to go that route but couldn't find the green jeweled caps anywhere or all clear.
I like Comets' led rings because it also has warm whites that shine downward which helps brighten the playfield around the pops.
That and they are half the price. I got a set of purple and a set of red to try in my Elvis.
Quoted from weaverj:are they self-adhesive? how do they stay in there?
Dabs of hot glue.
Quoted from Kawydud:Pinball life has all of those parts, though the website is hard to navigate sometimes. Worst case I have half a dozen of each color in my box for just such an emergency. The lights in mine shine down as well. These are what are in there. http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3624
Jeweled caps here - http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1407
Ok great but those caps are for Data East/Sega/Stern games. Would they even fit Getaway?
Here are caps for Williams games
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=327
No greens
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:Is that because they were about $25 less, or are you suggesting the ones $199 are better?
Cheaper and domestic. Jumped too soon and bought the first set I saw. I would have had them here by now. My set is still stuck in NY has has been since the 19th.....
Quoted from GRUMPY:They are the same size.
Well crap
Quoted from Kawydud:haha, I'll send you some for Christmas.
Haha you're a good man John.
Quoted from urbanledge:The blue ring in your pic is the skirt.
The body is the body! The bit that holds the bulb and the cap.
Clear ones look great in general.
http://www.papa.org/wp-content/uploads/7.jpg
Wow yea now all I see is the blue skirt. Doesn't really fit anymore. I'll look into changing them. Thanks man
Quoted from urbanledge:The blue ring in your pic is the skirt.
The body is the body! The bit that holds the bulb and the cap.
Clear ones look great in general.
http://www.papa.org/wp-content/uploads/7.jpg
I ordered colored skirts to match the LED ring color. John, I also ordered the colored jeweled caps
Quoted from SUPERBEE:You are a madman Grinder!
Haha anything worth doing is worth over doing.
Quoted from Kawydud:Did you find some green skirts somewhere? nm, I see Marco has green ones.
Yea I used Marco
Quoted from MustangPaul:Ya know what's cool, that German parts seller (can't remember the name right now) has clear colored plastic pop bumper bodies. I've never heard of anyone putting them on a game. I wonder how they look.
I looked for some. If you find them, post the link Paul
Quoted from MustangPaul:I found it, http://www.pinball.center.com Look under Pop bumper bodies. They look waaaaaay cool, I'm gonna be getting them for my BOP rebuild, can't make up my mind on color though.
You sure that's the right site?
Quoted from TxJay:Hey Grinder, did you get your police car mod? How does it look?
Got it James. Looks great. Was thinking about trying to paint it in my patrol car colors. Once I get the super charger back from Mike, I'll mount the car.
Quoted from Budfan:This is link to the transparent bumper bodies
http://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-modding/transparent-bumper-bodies/
Oh man. Lots of good stuff. I can't decide on colored or transparent bodies and skirts. And oh wow they have gold bodies and skirts that might look awesome on my brassed Elvis. Ok I have a shopping cart all ready and let's see the damage and oh sweet baby Jesus $39 euros for shipping!?!?!?
Quoted from mgpasman:Yeah, now you know how it feels for us Europeans to get something from the states
New respect!!
Quoted from Kawydud:Have to combine some orders with you grinder. Save on shipping.
Sounds great man. I'm down and yea those do look great.
Well sorry John, I went ahead and placed the order. Got clear as well as colored for Getaway and gold for my Elvis
Quoted from Kawydud:sure sure, that's ok, I have a set of Getaway decals and you don't.
Haha ah man that hurts. The damn things have been stuck in NY for almost ten days now. Is this shit normal?!?
Quoted from Kawydud:That's what you get for not sharing your pop bumper parts order.
Karma is a bitch it's true
Quoted from Kawydud:Grinder, did you order three different colors of pop bumper bodies for Getaway? Wondering if the green/yellow/red bodies will look good with the matching pop bumper caps.
I sure did bud:
Bumper skirt, white transparent
Current unit price: €1.00 *
6
1,00 €*
6,00 €*
Pop Bumper Body, transparent (03-7443-5)
Current unit price: €2.43 *
6
2,43 €*
14,57 €*
Pop Bumper Body, red transparent (03-7443-5)
Current unit price: €2.43 *
4
2,43 €*
9,72 €*
Pop Bumper Body, yellow transparent (03-7443-5)
Current unit price: €2.43 *
1
2,43 €*
2,43 €*
Pop Bumper Body, green transparent (03-7443-5)
Current unit price: €2.43 *
1
2,43 €*
2,43 €*
Bumper skirt, gold
Current unit price: €2.93 *
3
2,93 €*
8,80 €*
Pop Bumper Body, gold (03-7443-5)
Current unit price: €2.43 *
3
2,43 €*
7,29 €*
Pop Bumper Base, gold
Current unit price: €2.09 *
3
2,09 €*
6,28 €*
Pop Bumper Protector, yellow
Current unit price: €0.83 *
1
0,83 €*
0,83 €*
Pop Bumper Protector, red
Current unit price: €0.83 *
1
0,83 €*
0,83 €*
Pop Bumper Protector, green
Current unit price: €0.83 *
1
0,83 €*
0,83 €*
Pop Bumper Mylar
Current unit price: €0.83 *
3
0,83 €*
2,50 €*
Quoted from TxJay:I'll ask my wife. She worked for a company for years that had to ship stuff from China all the time. She has a lot of experience with stuff stuck in customs. I think she may have a number for you to call. I'll let you know.
Thanks James! Big help! Tell your wife thank you for me. Have you filled in the space yet from the sold pin?
I've got one more shipment of pop bumper parts arriving (new bases, and metal rings and new springs) and then I'm going to tackle the pops.
These goodies arrived:
The perfectionist in me is annoyed that I didnt opt for the dark green skirt instead of the lighter green. Any chance anyone of you has one I can buy?
John, you gonna place an order anytime?
And FINALLY the new cabinet decals arrived:
But, the art is rolled facing inward. I so badly want to take them out and flatten them and check on them. I'm prob a few weeks away at minimum from starting the cabinet project though. Leave them be? Take them out and inspect/flatten them?
Quoted from Tmezel:Coming soon, the U-turn sticker for the metal piece on the upper left at diverter ramp.
image_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpeg
I'm a buyer. Any movement on a Mezel mountain mod?
Oh yea, I also got these bumper Mylar circles. Might use them. We'll see. And oh hell yea these cabinet decals look so amazing. I can't wait to see them on the game in the near future.
Ok so dead serious here. I should have got the dark green pop skirts from pinball.center
Very fast mail service is 39 euros, super snail mail is 10.
If anyone else wanted to order something from them and throw in a dark green skirt for me, I'll pay for it and some of the shipping to get it in country and then to my address.
Any takers?
Thanks you guys!
Quoted from MustangPaul:Oh man good thing you haven't put them in yet cuz their 555 sockets. I can't find it but vid1900 showed how to put them in so they stand up straight and stay straight. Ask vid, he may remember where the post is. It's got something to do with using a wire tie, I can picture it in my head buy I can't describe it. So why don't you just read my mind.
Yea I got two different kinds of sockets to use. I have a Vid thread saved on replacing the pops that I'm referencing
Quoted from SUPERBEE:Go with the solid wire sockets. The flexible wire sockets suck big time !!
That's what someone else recommended too. Why do the flex wires suck? I was going to use the other set on my Elvis and put the all gold body and skirt on those bumpers.
Quoted from jawjaw:Pretty cool. Like to see those lit up.
I will hopefully have them done and lit up in the near future
Quoted from Mancave:The socket tends to flop around inside the bumper body somewhat and means the led wont always be centralized, solid wire one's sit in better
Gotcha. Maybe a dab of hot glue to hold the socket in place? The old ones on here were held in pretty tight and the leads were bent and stapled underneath making them pretty taut.
Annoyed at myself for not ordering longer screws for these caps. Sigh. It's always something.
Quoted from urbanledge:Forget the 555s
these are the best job
http://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-modding/noflix-bumper-light/6711/noflix-bumper-light
Well crap. Those seem cool. Can't use those and the LED rings though. Wish I had grabbed a few when I ordered all the skirts and bodies. Also, how are they powered? Soldered like the 555s?
Quoted from Kawydud:Pop bumpers look great Grinder, I will do my best to design something better for mine.
Ha! I have no doubt.
I just placed an order with Pinballlife for their britecaps. I'm gonna try them with their new ICE caps. It prob won't look as good with the game turned off but I dig the colors with it turned on.
Quoted from Mancave:I chose the Ice Cap version particularly for my BOP cause that diffused light will suit a lot better under the mini playfield. Doesn't matter if the Ice Cap doesn't suit your needs for The Getaway, you should be able to use any style cap really
Yea that's what I figured. I also felt like those Ice Caps resemble the lights on a stop light. I have like four different styles of caps now to choose from so we'll see what looks best.
I'm just killing time waiting on Mike to finish my chroming. Once that is all put back on, then it's the cabinet being decaled. Then it's f ing go time.
Quoted from Mancave:YUP and so do the Britecaps, 24 on top around the outside, 6 in the center as "react flash" and 10 underneath!!
Very excited to get them. But the ten underneath are on the outside lip right? Are there any in the center underneath? If any were in the center, if would def light up these color bodies better.
Quoted from MustangPaul:Nope, none in the center pointing downward in the center. BUT because the Bright Caps sit so high maybe with some extra wiring you could make the other ones work WITH the bright Caps.
Well Arts' LED Rings with the single led in the center might do a decent job of lighting up the center.
Those ones from pinball.center look cool but again, shipping is a bitch and wiring it to the britecap is outside my wheel house but then again, I'm a quick learner
Quoted from SUPERBEE:With all your changing of your choices of things im getting dizzy !! your going to spend a fortune but to be honest ? I effin love your passion bro !! Cant wait to see how it all turns out when your done. Its going to look amazing! Im in the middle of tearinf down my perfectly working Geteaway as you know cause it didnt look pretty enough! lol
Haha thanks man. It's good to have options. Yea I tend to go overboard with my projects. Very passionate and intense.
Well it wasn't pretty. I may have singed a wire or two with this damn soldering iron but we have power!
I'm pretty sure I shorted the led ring from Comet with the bottom of the led ring touching the metal ring. Speaking of metal ring, the metal rings on my Getaway seem higher than my two Sterns. Is this normal for a Williams game or have I done something wrong?
I've tried different combination of caps. None really light up the body that well:
Also, while I like the ICE caps a lot, I like the green led with ice caps the least. I even like the colored Williams caps. Ultimately, I like the jeweled caps with these britecaps from PBL for now. But we'll see:
Also, these britecaps seem to get very hot when powered on. Lots of LED lights so that does make sense. Is that normal?
Quoted from MustangPaul:Question for ya, in your pictures the metal post and the star post next to the orange pop you have 2 rubbers on them and a metal post with a rubber next to them, next to the ball lane. Is that the original positions for them. Does anyone know? I have the metal post like yours then a bolt in the hole where you have a star post then I have a star post next to the ball lane. 2 rubbers connect the star post and the 1st post. What's original???
I've seen owners completely remove the post. I've seen owners put a standard rubber on it like mine came with and I've seen them with a star post. Obviously the loop shot is easier with no post and hard with the star post. I'm pretty sure the star post is original.
Quoted from MustangPaul:I think you had it right with that black rubber post. That star post isn't supposed to be sticking out into the ball lane.
No I remember reading that a star post is how it was designed. Owners have modified it in different ways to make the shot easier.
Quoted from tiltmonster:The 2nd photo is correct... or at least that's the way my machine is setup.star_post_(resized).jpg
Yes! I like the lit star post. I'm going to do all mine in red. How is the wire ran? The led sits underneath the star post right? So where does the wire get ran through? Does it just clip on to GI?
Quoted from tiltmonster:I love these LED Star Post Lights and used them is several spots but I don't think I over did it...
A few bits of advise,
1. I used a Dermel and thinned down the inside wall of the star posts so the light would fit snuggly inside the post
2. I put a notch on one side of the Star Post so it would sit flat on the base of the LED plastic circle and sit flush on the PF
3. I sanded the "nipple" off of the top of Star post so the plastics would sit level on ALL the posts
I used some for additional lighting in dark areas that are always on and used some in the slings as additional flashers,
the Blue are used as Flashers and the Green and Red are always on in the GI strings
Blue_Flasher_(resized).jpg
Green_Star_(resized).jpgGreen_star_2_(resized).jpg
Dear God
Quoted from Kawydud:tsk tsk Grinder, you didn't replace the targets with new ones? Dear baby Jesus!
Sigh. I've thought about it. Now it's all I'll think about.
Quoted from Kawydud:Lol, just messing with you.
I know but I'll prob end up buying a complete set cuz why the hell not
Quoted from MustangPaul:AND.....there's always an AND.....new target cushions. That's a good lad.
Already bought the cushion. Halfway there
Quoted from Mancave:Ummmmm Target Decals?....shhhhh stop encouraging Grinder
I bought some and put them on the original targets. I'll buy another set for these new targets
Quoted from Kawydud:It takes 6 white ones as well.
Haha I know. I got those on order as well. The screen shot would only show so much
Quoted from Kawydud:Glad you are taking all of those pictures Grinder. It will help me out with my third HS2. I just need to go pick it up.
Yes sir. Happy to help. I'll send them all to you.
Quoted from rottenrobert1313:Lol. Shameless push for your products...both of you.
We'll see. I tend to do LED's and that's about it for the mod's except for my Metallica. Lol
Stronger man than me
Thanks guys. Not done yet. Putting in star post leds next. Like I said, just killing time till the chrome is ready for pickup.
Ok I put warm whites in the single ring starn posts, 11 of them. I like them a lot. I got them from PBL but they said these leds won't work in double ring star posts. I have three double ring star posts towards the back. At have any recommendations on what to use. Maybe a link to what Comet has available? I'd like to light all the posts if possible.
image_(resized).jpeg
image_(resized).jpeg
image_(resized).jpeg
image_(resized).jpeg
image_(resized).jpeg
Quoted from MustangPaul:Damn that looks fine, did you try to put one in yet.
No not yet. There just isn't a great spot to hide the circuit board or a place to run the wires through.
I may have to break out a Dremel and cut a bottom section out of the star post to run it up under the star post next to it
Quoted from TxJay:I don't think he was saying he was going drill through the PF
I PMed him and was thinking about creating a hole where it wouldn't be seen under the plastic. I didn't see any other way to bring the wires through the playfield
Well everything was going so damn well. I just had to light the back three star posts. I connected them to nearby gi and turned it on for one final test. One of the three wasnt working so adjusted the clips and now I've got lights out all over the damn playfield. Like a shit ton of lights. Did I blow a fuse?
No I sure don't. I tried inspecting the fuses visually to see if I saw a break in any of them but I couldn't really tell
Quoted from Kawydud:Damnit, what did you do?
Ha, the hell if I know. Can there be too many leads on one GI light? Everything was going so well until I tried tackling those back star posts.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Hey, where did you get those flipper toppers?
Hit Joe up at Pingraffix.com
Quoted from MustangPaul:There's a short somewhere.
A short? I'm heading to work, I'll have to try and tackle it tomorrow. I don't think I messed with anything while the lights were on. I don't think I burned any wires with my soldering iron either. It's just crazy that so many lights went out at one time.
Quoted from jawjaw:Check your connectors. You more than likely toasted a connection at the pin. I did the same messing with alligators clamps connected to light strips. Now I never fiddle with anything without power off. Need to check fuses as well.
Thanks. I try not to fiddle with the lights off either but maybe I had something touching something it shouldn't have when I turned it back on.
If I did toast a connector as you said, what's the remedy? How do I check connectors?
Quoted from MustangPaul:Hey Ryan be safe out there tonight.
Hey, thanks man. Hoping for a quiet night but ya never know.
I don't know if I'm liking the transparent rubbers. I'm thinking either white or black rubbers. Can't decide...
Quoted from MustangPaul:Looks like your J120 brown wire connector is getting a little brown so keep an eye on that one.
Hmm yea I see that now. On the right edge. Thank you. Weird. I'll inspect it more when I get home later today. What does J120 power?
Quoted from tiltmonster:If you search the j120 you will see that the J120 is problematic, as I recall it controls several GI strings and is the one that usually gets cooked. Mine did but it's not just the molex, it's the pins on the back side of the board. I repaired my board by replacing the pins and replaced the molex and it continued to fail. I eventually bought a new board and rebuilt the molex connector and it's been trouble free since. LEDs will reduce the load but if its brown that could indicate the pins are failing too, you may want to check that out. If you repair the molex connectors and not the board it may continue to go bad. Hopefully the pins are ok.
All great info. How do I check to see if the pins are failing?
Thanks guys. Yea I searched and found your old thread about J120 on your Getaway. I'll check the fuses when I get home.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:For those of you who have gone with the translucent rubber rings, I have a couple of questions:
1) Did you use 2.5" or 3.0" for the slingshots (calls for 2.5", but have read some places that owners of other pins thought they were too tight, so they went with 3")
2) I am looking to acquire from Pinball Life, but they do not carry the 7/16" ID (supplier does not make them). Schematic calls for 8 of these. Is there an alternate supplier or an alternate size I should use (PBL has either 3/4" or 3/8" ID rings).
Check out www.Titanpinball.com for your rubber needs.
Quoted from rottenrobert1313:The shop is about to begin on my Getaway. Just got my parts in.
20160418_161336_(resized).jpg
It's like Christmas! Congrats!
Here are the caps:
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1407
I have sampled a ton of cap LEDs but I'm liking the pop bumper LEDs from Comet:
http://www.cometpinball.com/Pinball-Pop-Bumper-LED-Light-p/11smdbmpring.htm
I chose to match the led to the color of the pop but I also wondered how natural or warm white would look in the pops.
Lots of options out there bud. Good luck
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Where did you get your high speed flipper toppers? Is there one for the top right flipper?
Joe from Pingraffix.com is your bet. He makes that third flipper topper too
Ok I'll check all the fuses tonight, no beep means it's bad.
I pulled j120 and inspected the pin as well as the connector. Aside from slightly browning, they both appear ok. I'll have the connector replaced when I do the cabinet.
Yes sir, non Williams caps work. I had similar questions. I bought clear caps, the Williams real, yellow and red caps as well as the jeweled caps
Quoted from tiltmonster:A ton of fuses is a good thing, it's more protection for your machine but I'm confused now, are there still issues with the lights or is that resolved?
Oh no it's resolved but I thought testing them all to make sure was recommended. I used a continuity tester. It lit up if there was continuity. There were only a few that to me at least, didn't seem to burn quite as bright
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I just ordered one of these. Referring to the knob, how did you end up removing it? Did you just cut it off, did you try heat, some other way? Anything else from your experience that would be nice to know before attempting upgrade on my own?
Brother it was a major pain in the ass. I took a hack saw to it as well as a Dremel. I cut it in half all the way around with the hacksaw and then cut it vertical with a Dremel. I'm sure there is a smarter, easier way but I'm no rocket surgeon.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I was wondering of the light green is actually "teal" when ordering? I am ordering a bunch of stuff from PBL, and this is the only one I see. Shows light green in photo of choices, but only "teal" in drop down selection (I would be happy with light green, but don't want to end up with a bluish-green).
The light green is def green. Not teal. I had a hard time finding a dark green skirt. By the time I did, I already had installed the entire green pop assembly and I'm satisfied with it. I have the dark green skirt in a box filled with clear, red and white bodies and a ton of cap colors.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Well, my shifter just arrived but it does not work. Did not come with instructions on how to change battery. I removed the cap, but just contains the switch as far as I can tell. Searched the web, but cannot find instructions. Any guidance on how to replace batteries is greatly appreciated.
Even with all the work, based on your pics the end result looks well worth it. I was wondering what those shards of black mess were in your photos - Dremel & hacksaw at work?
Yep, all that black crap is shards of original shifter knob. There are several small Allen wrench type of screws in the center of the new shifter. Remove the screws and I'll bet you'll find two dead lithium batteries. Replace them and your good to go.
Here's an image of the dark green skirt next to the green pop
Your apron is a huge improvement.
Two lithium batteries sit stacked on each other to power the shift knob mod. I'll see about taking the knob apart tomorrow for you.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I was wondering of the light green is actually "teal" when ordering? I am ordering a bunch of stuff from PBL, and this is the only one I see. Shows light green in photo of choices, but only "teal" in drop down selection (I would be happy with light green, but don't want to end up with a bluish-green).
Also, now that I'm thinking of it. I don't know that I bought my green skirt from PBL. I think I got it from Pinball.center so I can't really say what tint that green/teal skirt is going to be. I would email Terry and ask him at PBL before wasting the money.
Ryan
Quoted from Slim64:Nothing against those that have done the shifter knob mod, but it looks pretty "ricey" to me. I'd rather have the stock one.
I hear ya. To each their own. The game is all about pushing limits and putting the pedal to the metal. That knob is boring and stock. But some owners, hell prob most owners, like their games the way they came. I like going over board and over the top, in case that wasn't already apparent.
Quoted from Mancave:I could be wrong but i read it as a typo and thought he meant Dicey
No he meant ricey which kinda denotes those rice cars/suped up Fast and the Furious type of cars. Hell I think anyway. Nothing offends me but is that term, ricey, because mostly Asians love those type of vehicles?
And guys, I feel like at times, I'm posting too much in the thread. Just excited and love sharing with people who share a similar interest. Once the game is back together and I'm playing it, I'll be too busy to post, I promise.
Quoted from Wescobar:The only issue I have with your posts is that my time/money budget for my own Getaway shop out has gone up quite a bit. I was considering doing all the star post lights but didn't think I would until I saw yours. Now I have to do it. Thanks a lot!
Ha! Well you are very welcome then!
Just wait till all the chromed parts get put on and then the new decals on the cabinet. Can't wait!!!
Quoted from MustangPaul:Well my Leg Light-Up are removable, just ask Grinder.
Yea I highly recommend them
Quoted from Mancave:I've found a shifter knob that i think will fit in well with some of the other parts i've got on my machine, i'll post more after i've ordered and received it. I took my original off to have a good luck at it and i reckon i can make up a new shaft with very little effort from either stainless or chrome rod. There's no need to hack off the original IMHO, just have another shaft and then swap it over to whatever style knob you want to use. If anyone is a bit on the interested side as regards changing their own machine shifter over to an LED Knob style then i can probably supply the shaft and would only need to know the screw size for the knob. Let me get mine sorted first and then if there's any interest i'll give out more details
You know, this is partly your fault Grinder
Sounds good man and yes I take full responsibility. I infected many IM owners with my mod addiction in that thread as well.
Oh and I'm down for a chrome red
Quoted from Kawydud:Damnit, what did you do?
Hey John,
I tried sending you a PM. Can you make me some more circle magnet protectors? I need some in yellow please.
The wife wouldn't approve either but what can I say, I'm a tit man.
On a whim, I began putting the playfield plastics back on the game. I wanted to see how they look with the lit up star posts. I like it but I'm wondering if I'd like clear star posts with a white post light more. I don't know. I just don't know. I do know that led strips in the ball return as well as under the slings look great!
Quoted from MustangPaul:What you might want to experiment with also is led strips under the tree plastics on the game. I did that to mine and they light up great. It REALLY evens out the lighting under them and with Comets new bulb with the connector coming out of it they would work super cuz you won't loose a socket like I did every time you use a strip now.
Yep I've got a socket with both the bulb and connector for each side as well as a strip for each side. I'm doing it tomorrow
Quoted from MustangPaul:Good man. I think I used 4 of the strips.
Wait you used four strips? Total? Each side? How many LEDs per strip?
Quoted from MustangPaul:Total. 7 led strips under the green plastics.
Well damn, I was just going to use one 10 led strip for each side. And I just placed another order with Comet but didn't put any more strips in that order. Damn
Quoted from tiltmonster:Email Art at Comet, if it hasn't shipped yet I'm sure he will help. Awesome guy to deal with... he's on Pinside too, OLDPINGUY
It's already shipped and hell, I added three more orders on top of the original order before it all shipped. Just kept finding more things to try.
It's cool, I'll place another order for more strips soon.
Quoted from tiltmonster:I bought the matrix led light strips from Art for my Elvira machine and they can be trimmed down and cut to size, I removed 2 lights so it would fit where I wanted it to go.
Yea that's what I'm using too, Matrix is pretty awesome
Quoted from Mancave:Finally got around to getting the shifter knob attached. It took about an hours work to make a new shaft on the lathe using 5/8th stainless steel rod, the threaded end is 3/8th and also had to make a tool to cut the groove for the circlip. I chose this particular one cause it has a flames pattern on the knob which fits in well with the Hydrodipped flames supercharger cover. There is 6 red LED'S inside that has a 4 position switch, so random pattern, all flashing, always on and off. I'd added some red LED flipper buttons recently so going with that particular coloured LED seemed the best way to go (also got the red LED start key mod from Mezelmods). On the whole the colours all fit well with the rest of the machine. If anyone is interested in a new shifter shaft so they can add their own style knob then just PM me. I will only need to know what size threaded end you wish to have, and i will mention that most of these after market car knobs come with several different sized plastic inserts (to screw onto a gear shift shaft) so i would recommend using the larger size insert first cause you can always cut the thread down further if it ever wears out (unlikely really). Price? , i'm not exactly sure about, even at half tradies rates (usually about $90 or more an hour in OZ) it will probably seem too expensive. If these were pumped out on a CNC machine in bulk amounts it would cost bugger all but i'm only thinking of doing a few if required. I'll say about $50 Aus dollars plus postage ( about $37 US) but i could have my arm twisted a bit
DSC02183_(resized).JPGDSC02184_(resized).JPGDSC02186_(resized).JPG
I am interested in a new shaft
Yea putting the strips in the ball return makes them show up in the dmd. You have to lean down as you play to avoid seeing it.
My new IMVE is great because the dmd is angled in such a way that you can't see the light strip.
Quoted from Kawydud:Is that what your wife said?
Haha no way
Quoted from fxdwg:thank you for doing this. I modded my IM:VE following all of the great work a pinsider did and documentation he provided after!! that's another thing that makes this place great!! appreciate the sharing of knowledge for sure!!
And who was that IMVE owner?
Quoted from fxdwg:thank you for doing this. I modded my IM:VE following all of the great work a pinsider did and documentation he provided after!! that's another thing that makes this place great!! appreciate the sharing of knowledge for sure!!
Mirror blades would look great but I'm waiting on some inner cabinet artwork/apron art mod to put on mine
Yea my cabinet sides are scratched to shit. Hopefully when the cabinet is redecaled, he can figure out what the hell is scratching the inner cabinet
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Spent a little more time on it tonight, here is the updated version.
I love it man. My Getaway came with the Donut Heaven mod from Mezel. I don't think the original metal cover came with the game.
1 week later
Oh yea it's a bad reflection. Newer dmds seem to be angled so it's not a problem. If I kind of hunch over while I play, the LED strip reflection isnt seen. I like the additional lighting but it's annoying to see it it in the reflection
2 weeks later
They are decals and adhere to one side. Spray a little windex and slide the game blade around till its lined up perfect and boom, good to go
Quoted from SUPERBEE:Oh ok, so you do need mirror blades. Wondering if the decals could be applied directly to the cabinet sides? Dont really want to spend the money on blades. To expensive to ship to Canada.
No you don't need mirror blades. They adhere directly to the cabinet sides
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Would love to see pics of blades when installed. I'm wondering if they end up looking like my homemade ones where all you really see is sky and tops of mountains. I modeled mine from a mirror blade pattern, and didn't think to actually measure visible part of blade before I created the design.
Oh I will def post pictures of the cabinet gameblades but it'll be a while. I just picked up the majority of the parts that were chromed so those are going on now. Then the cabinet decals are getting redone. Then the game blades.
Quoted from dmacy:Pretty sure they're not from Getaway as i just swapped playfields and it doesn't look familiar.
Thanks man. Yea I saved your thread and it def helped when putting some of these pieces back even though I took a bunch of my own pictures.
I should have my ramps back in a week or so I hope. Im staring at this super charger assembly and this looks like a nightmare
image_(resized).jpeg
image_(resized).jpeg
image_(resized).jpg
Quoted from dmacy:Glad it's helping someone.
You know what... I believe the "U" piece is the U turn part of supercharger that diverter will guide to left wire form. Forgot that I left my SC together. Not recalling the other piece you have.
Here is one of the mystery pieces and the Uturn plastic side by side. I don't see how the holes match up but once I get the ramps together, I'll know more
A separate issue is this new coin door I had chromed. It's laid out differently than the original. The coin door switch is missing from the new. So do I have to somehow mount the old white switch in the cabinet?
Also the new coin door doesn't come with a ground wire like the old one had. Anyone make the switch and come across these issues?
Quoted from SUPERBEE:I just ran into the same problem with the new coin door I got for my Getaway. You need the switch assembly bracket but not the double one. You need the single. Marco has it in stock. I just ordered it. I'll link it for you when I get home.
So now that we are fixing the coin door switch issue with the new coin doors, what about the lack of a ground wire on the new coin door?
Also,
Let's say I damage or otherwise lose a metal playfield piece. What are my options? I've looked but is there a site that carries replacement playfield like curved ball guides?
My playfield scratches the HELL out of my cabinet. Es no bueno. This can't be normal. When I have the cabinet redone, I'll def have that issue address so I'm not scratching it or the decals that'll be there anymore:
Quoted from tiltmonster:Looks like your latches (slide assembly) are an issue, the springs are not in the right spot and the Ground cable was cut too...
I'll try to post you some fixes and a pic
Thanks. That's an old picture. I think we fixed the spring issue at least:
Spent some of Father's Day tweaking this and that on my games. Replaced old flipper buttons with chrome style, installed the coin door bracket and sensor in the cabinet to make contact with the new coin door and a few others.
So noticed the old coin doors connector and the new coin door connector aren't exactly the same. Should I be concerned?
Ugh. Yea I see the missing screw and will put one back there.
I'll have my cabinet guy fix whatever issues it might have once the playfield comes out and the thing gets sanded, painted and decaled. I have a feeling he is going to earn every bit of what he's going to charge me
1 week later
1 week later
Quoted from KornFreak28:That looks nice! Will have to do that some day. Where you having the same issue of not locking up balls with the lower right flipper before your new flap?
No not at all. Though it's been unplayable for a few months now so my memory isn't super clear about how it used to play. It should be back together and kicking ass in all its chromed greatness very soon.
I'm a Sheriff's Deputy and thought I'd support these chrome cap decals. I like the star ones that resemble a badge. They are prob designed for the standard cap and not these jeweled caps so it wasn't an easy install for the outer ring. What do y'all think?
So everything is back on the playfield. Turn the game on and I had a ton of errors involving opto 1-3 switches 81-5 were bad.
Then the lower right flipper fires and then stays up.
I turn off the game and reseat some connectors. I turn the game back on and I either get this high pitch whine or loud feedback from the speakers and the ColorDMD is all scrambled.
I'm at a loss here. Anyone have any suggestions?
Ok I reseated a ribbon and the dmd issue is back to normal.
Still having all the errors plus the game starts to fire all the flippers which results in the lower right flipper sticking up.
Edit: had another connector in the wrong place so all but opto 1 is working. That base for that opto was broken by the chrome shop or Mike disassembling the supercharger and it'll be replaced.
Now also realizing with the chrome job, all the metal pieces are just milimeters bigger in size but it's impacting me nonetheless.
Many of the threads had to be tapped to put screws back through.
The biggest issue its the back ramp that raises. It's not raising all the way. Only thing I can tell is it won't raise all the way because both the corner ramp and the ramp that raises are both slightly larger thus not allowing it to reach its full height. It's that or something mechanical preventing the rod in the back from locking forward to fully raise the ramp.
Full regret mode!
I'm taking it to a buds shop to have him redo the cabinet decals and the cabinet itself. He's also going to rebuild all three flippers and put in new targets. I'll have him address the back ramp as well.
1 week later
Any known reason why when I go into test mode, and after it reads off the errors, the flippers fire and at first the lower right would stick in the up position but now the upper right flipper gets stuck in the up position.
What gives?
Quoted from Grinder901:Any known reason why when I go into test mode, and after it reads off the errors, the flippers fire and at first the lower right would stick in the up position but now the upper right flipper gets stuck in the up position.
What gives?
Anyone willing to give a diagnosis ?
So I fixed all the errors except the first opto which has a broken base.
It's that dang flipper firing on its own that's puzzling.
I'll get home and take some more video of the flipper issues. If I don't go into menu and just start a game, it start out fine but then either the upper right or lower right flipper gets stuck in the up position. Just don't know why
Quoted from Mancave:You've probably already looked at this but have you checked out the switch inside the cab for the flipper button, are the tabs bent? and contacting when they shouldn't be?
I thought about that but will give it a strong look when I get home. Truth is only the right side is having this issue so maybe it's as simple as the switch being the issue
Good stuff guys thanks. I noticed the touching as well and slightly twisted but I didn't do anything to to them that I recall to make them touch so I wasn't sure if that was the issue.
I bent the switches back giving them space and making sure they touch only when the flipper button is pressed. I played a few games and didn't get that stuck up problem again.
My left flipper came up during play. Maybe I didn't have it tightened enough.
My kickback angle is def off and prob only makes it in the hole 1 out of 7 or 8 times.
The rear ramp assembly is doing this weird knocking/ticking when the game was on.
It looks beautiful and it's getting closer and closer to playing like it was before the teardown and chroming.
2 months later
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:The manual states that a properly adjusted kickback should kick the ball into the tunnel, but mine rarely does this. How do I "properly adjust" my kickback?
Since getting the whole game chromed, mine rarely makes it either. I'd love some help with adjustment ideas
1 week later
Quoted from SUPERBEE:I think i know someone here who could probably steal enough of these for all of us in one good night. He know where a lot of them are. Heloo......Grinder ?
Haha you rang?
1 month later
Quoted from MustangPaul:Man that's lookin sharp, love that chrome coin door. You gonna cut around those cab protectors to play it safe?
Cut around the cab protectors? Why?
Quoted from Charger500:Even your flipper buttons are chromed! How did you get the legs and rails so shiny and polished?
If I do something, I do it big and it's usually over the top. I had the supercharger and all the ball guides chromed too!
For the chroming, I used Mike Chestnut until his passing and then Chris Royalty finished the job for him.
Quoted from weaverj:where's the mountain? come on, man.
Oh I'd love one! Got one to sell me?
Going to ass the apron magnet mod and lit speaker panel mod when they are available
Quoted from SUPERBEE:Hmm.... dont you think that might hurt ?
Ha! Not going to change it. No pain no gain
Hey guys. I'm trying to put this hairpin turn decal on and I think I'm missing the metal bracket that should be behind the U-Turn. Am I alone here or were others also missing this piece? Does Marco carry it?
Also, it seems that beneath the Donut Heaven, in the ball lock, I'm having issues. I'll have the lock lit, hit the shot and the game will go into ball search mode instead of kicking out a second ball. It'll release the locked ball instead so I'm unable to stack all three. I recall reading about similar issues. What should I look for around the ball lock area?
Thanks guys!
Quoted from GRUMPY:Check the ball switches in the lock area in switch test. Find which one isn't working and test the switch and diode. Might just need to be adjusted a bit.
I'm gonna test it tomorrow. Thanks guys
Quoted from cavalier88z24:Where can i buy that decal?
I pity the fool that won't PM Mr T
Sweet. I adjusted the bottom switch and boom the lock is working exactly as it should. I'll keep playing and testing but it's looking good!
Quoted from GRUMPY:And you thought this would be hard.
Yea it wasn't being raised high enough to come in contact with the sensor/button when the ball rolled under it.
What a fun fun game!!
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Shipping is still $7 for a pack of $1.50 (10 rivets). Please realize that I am not complaining and I understand the cost of pinball, but if I could find someone who has a few they would be willing to sell me and mail for the cost of a postage stamp or two then I am all over that. I may very well end up forking over the shipping fees, but will probably figure out some other things to buy at the same time from Marcos to spread out the expense (although I really don't need anything).
I should have some bud. Let me get home and I'll check. You can have whatever I can find
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Any luck finding some? If not, no biggie as I will just drop some more coin at Marcos.
Don't drop the coin yet. I have one more spot to look and I'll let you know
I want to give a big shout out to Mr Tantrum. If he wanted to he could make some side coin doing these things for us.
I wanted to keep the Donut Heaven building but add a little bit more life to it. So I put patrol cars outside and the patrons on the inside. It's just about right.
Thanks man!
Quoted from Charger500:Have y'all seen this; http://retrofun.com.au/form/keyring-form.html
Yea I have a set for all three of my pins
Quoted from SUPERBEE:I just realized this is what you did grinder. Where did you get the file for just the patrons inside ?
That's all Mr Tantrum. He provided a waterslide decal that worked perfect. I had never used one so it took me like three tries to get it right. Next, thanks to him, I'll put a brick decal on the front of the shop then apply the patrol cars on top of the bricks for some depth to the mod.
I too used Comet matrix lighting under my plastics. I also could not decide which bumper body and cap to go with. I tend to go a bit over board....
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:BTW, meant to ask something . . . can't you run the wire from the light up from the bottom instead of through the roof to get rid of that bulge? Personally, I would do this and cover the wires with white electrical tape up against the back inside wall of the DH. Other option would be to cut/melt/Dremmel a slot just below the back center roof line and route wire through from outside that to prevent bulge.
Hmm I'll def take a look at that. It's possible they ran the wire on the outside to prevent it interfering with the wire form. Not sure.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Look'n good. Also, can't tell from the two pics, but did you get rid of the roof bulge by re-running the wiring (sort of looks like you did)?
Nah bud I didn't. Maybe down the road I'll tackle it
Quoted from DB62:I just had to let everyone on here know, what a AWESOME guy Mr_Tantrum (Chris) really is.
I just purchased a "GETAWAY" pin for my grandson and we will be giving it to him for Christmas. He is starting to take interest in pinball and I want him to hopefully get involved more. He loves cars and wants to be a police officer, so we decided to get this pin for him, plus it is a GREAT pin in general and for adults also.
I PMed Mr_Tantrum and asked him if he could to some customized artwork for me, with my grandson's name on it and some other things. He promptly called me back, we went through everything and he was very detailed. He sent me back the artwork for approval and his work is simply AMAZING!!! He was very reasonable in price and is ALREADY sending me out this package on Monday, because he knows I need it right away ... UNBELIEVABLE!!!
I can NOT say enough NICE THINGS about this guy ... THANK YOU again for everything Chris, I really APPRECIATE it and I know you just made my grandson's Christmas VERY SPECIAL, as you did mine also!
Dan
Mr T is def an asset to the hobby.
You are a damn fine grandpa as well. I've been in law enforcement for over ten years now (eight years Marine Corps before that) so if your grandson has any questions about career or pinball, tell him to make a Pinside account and I'd be glad to help him.
Customs was being a bitch about it but this bad boy came in today courtesy of Bill aka NinJaBooT and his thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/my-magnet-mod
This was just a sample he had made and was a throwaway. The ones he is selling soon are thicker and of even higher quality and color. Sorry for the crappy iPhone pics. It looks so great in person.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:The apron magnets are a cool idea, and I like the way he ties the artwork in on all of them.
I also notice you have a video mod on the left. What do you think about it, and can you mod video at all?
Oh I love the video mods. They are made by Sparky here on Pinside and I have them on all my games and yea I believe they can be modded. I'm not sure how though. Wouldn't it be cool to have episodes of COPS playing on it? As of right now it's a three minute or so video of police chases, the red lambo and helicopters flying about.
Sparky could best answer those questions. I know another modder had a video that could play whole episodes of shows but it might be a bit more expensive than my mod.
On another note, my right flipper acts very weird at times.
When I press the button, the bottom flipper sometimes flip twice in quick succession or hell, it sometimes doesn't flip at all.
I made sure the leaf switches weren't touching and that it made good contact with the flipper button. Any idea what would cause the flipper to act all wonky?
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Do upper and lower behave the same? If just lower, with playfield down look into cab and see if any obstructions (wires, etc.)
My tech buddy said "Did you check the end of stroke switches on the flipper under the playfield?"
Now I haven't a clue what a stroke switch is but I have eyes and will see if anything looks out of wack tomorrow if I get time to pull the playfield out.
Quoted from tiltmonster:In the leaf switch, see if the wood is still in between the metal leaves, sometimes the wood will fall apart after so many years. If so, you may have to replace the leaf switch.
I'll def take some pictures. The wood seemed ok. Maybe some slight play to the metal switch in between the wood but nothing major.
I'm on the preorder list for a new playfield but I'm on the fence.
I wonder what the fellow owners on here think my Getaway is worth give or take with all the mods, color and, new decals and all the chrome.
I def won't get the money back on the new playfield plus the time to do the swap. Hmmm...
1 week later
Well of course, I have some family over for gifts, food and pinball and The Getaway wants to have a meltdown.
A game will start but before long the entire game locks up. The GI will start blinking and nothing is responsive. Hell, once the entire playfield went dark with only the speaker lights and the mini video display working. Another time, I restarted the game, the dmd was all garbled and scrolling down.
What the hell gives?
As much as I like my flashy after market shift knob, I wonder if it causes more problems. I know it tends to want to stay in the down position unless I physically put it in neutral.
Anyone hand an extra standard knob to sell me?
Quoted from Buthamburg:Try pushing a bit on the big square prodcesor on the CPU, sometimes there is a bad connection.
I have seen many with a tywrap arround that socket.
Ok I'll try that.
Quoted from Charger500:That's beyond my skill set Grinder. Maybe Pull the batteries, ( loosing all game memory unfortunately ) pull the plug, let it sit for 10 minutes. And plug in and retry. Merry Christmas
The batteries have been pulled and a NVRAM inserted a while ago. It's worked without error until I moved it a few feet a few days ago.
I mean it usually boots up but around a minute during attract mode, locks up.
I tried reseating damn near every ribbon. Just doesn't make sense what would cause it to go haywire all of a sudden.
And if I can embarrassingly admit, I can't tell a MPU board from the sound board from a hole in the wall.
Quoted from Mancave:OK MPU board is the bottom left (the main brain of the whole back box). Isolate the MPU board from all the other boards by disconnecting the upper ribbon cable. The VERY short ribbon cable that goes to the lower right board (Driver board) you need to keep connected otherwise, no power, no work What happens?
Well I have two upper ribbons cables here. Disconnect one or both?
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