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(Topic ID: 78179)

Getaway Club ~ Dispatch, run a make on license plate KINGPIN


By MrSanRamon

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 10,820 posts
  • 423 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 hours ago by pinballjah
  • Topic is favorited by 202 Pinsiders

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#9219 1 year ago

Finally found a decent priced getaway near me. It needs a bit of cosmetic work but it plays great. Spent some time today cleaning the playfield and giving the center play area a good buffing.

I noticed some of my bayonet bulbs are a bit finicky, you have to jiggle the bulb a bit to get it to light, also my LEDs are ghosting. Is that common with this title? They’re standard bulbs I used successfully on my Jurassic Park.

5D6E4F8B-38BE-491F-BC66-2F58C28A719A (resized).jpeg
#9222 1 year ago
Quoted from fast_in_muskoka:

Congrats On the HSII, I think I saw that on Kijiji for sale the other day, you moved fast - Nice score !
I put Pinball Bulb's LEDs into my HSII a few years back and no ghosting that I've seen.
I took a bunch of extra time and cleaned all the insides of every insert when the LEDs were installed, they were full of carbon dust.
This game really pops with LEDs for certain.

I actually bought it from a fellow Pinside before he listed it. All the kijiji getaways in Canada turned out to be scams :/

I noticed a lot of carbon dust on the back box lighting board.

The ghosting issue is odd, maybe it’s just a bad connection on the bayonets then. The lone wedge base in the traffic light seems fine.

#9237 1 year ago

Looks good with the custom coin door inserts.

I didn’t realize they sold replacements for those. My getaway has one missing and I just placed a big order with pinball life this morning for some maintenance parts and new rubber for my pins. I could’ve added those on.

#9254 1 year ago
Quoted from okgrak:

Did you fix the issue with your light sockets? I had the same issue with my Shadow, and I fixed it by taking the bulb out, scraping the inside of the socket with steel wool, and then cleaning using rubbing alcohol on a q-tip.

Thanks, right now the pin is apart waiting for a flipper rebuild kit but I’ll try that out. A lot of the sockets have corrosion so I wouldn’t be surprised if this helps.

#9271 1 year ago

I bought a pair this week from astill for my getaway, L-2 and L-5.

1 week later
#9291 1 year ago

I picked up the L-5 and L-2 roms with the LED patch, they got rid of the ghosting on my inserts, but I got an odd error when I booted it up after swapping the roms. It said gear shift error, but if I cancel out of the service menu the game plays fine. I swapped back in the old rom to see if it was something with the patched one, but I got the same error. What would cause this error? How should I go about diagnosing it?

Also the guy I bought the machine off sent me a replacement rear ramp flap since the game was missing one. Is it just riveted in? What's the easiest method to install it? Will I have to take out the supercharger?

#9293 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I would play a game in which you shift both up and down to switch gears. If the error still shows in service mode, then go to switch test and verify up and down switch register correctly. I've been told that if a switch is not used within so many plays that a switch error will show. When swapping ROMs, not sure what is retained in memory or not that might impact this.
Regarding the back ramp, yes it is just riveted it and I do believe you will have to disassemble much of the SC in order to get the part out so that you can install the flap (at least I did).

Thanks, I ran the diagnostic test on the shifter and it registered up and down correctly. In game both up and down work too, verified them during launch and video mode. Swapping the ROM reset the settings to factory. The machine is an Italian re-import which must have lived by the sea based on the corrosion on the lamp sockets lol.

I guess I'll wait on putting in the flap for now if it requires a major tear down. The mylar is showing some major wear along its edges so I'm contemplating removing it completely. The game has a Diamondplate playfield, which to my understanding means the game has a factory clear coat. Since I'm not routing it, I can probably get away without the mylar correct?

3 weeks later
#9372 1 year ago

Well I can say that Mr_Tantrum has at least convinced me to pick up a pair of lyonsden's boards (one for the Getaway supercharger and one for an F-14 I'm restoring). If all goes well I'll pick one up for my JP down the line, but I have too many projects pending right now. Also the Canadian dollar is super weak, so I'm paying a 30% premium...ackk.

I was originally trying to figure out how to intercept the signals for an arduino myself, but decided to just purchase the boards and focus on the programming and physical mods. I've designed a couple 3D printed mods for my games so far so I can appreciate the time it takes to develop something this complex. Hopefully I can come up with something new and interesting to add to Getaway.

#9376 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Glad you mentioned that. After I'm finished with my Getaway customizations, my plan will be to evaluate Pinduino for JP. Currently there is not a light sequencing programmed for it, although Pinduino will interface with the DE games (one guy is trying, but not made progress). I'm sure I'll be opening up discussion for ideas in the JP owners thread on where to put the LED strip and what lighting effects to implement when I get to that point.

Yea I think there's a few more spots in JP that could benefit from some custom lighting and maybe some servo mods to add some more "action" to the game. The rotating dock sign should be able to be replicated by a servo tied to an arduino. I'm also working on another mod that would work nicely with some chaser/breathing lights.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Sell more of your awesome JP Gate mods! Seriously, have your creativity fund your pinball habit.

I've got one sale for the gate from your referrals already! That's what spurred me to buy the pinduino.

Back to Getaway:
The Traffic Light mod you're printing from OlloG, are you using 1" inserts on them? I printed one of the 3 ways for myself (from Thingiverse) but I only have inserts for the front 3 holes. I have to pick up another 6 for the side ones.

Thinking of getting these ones https://www.pinballlife.com/1-round-transparent-starburst-amber-playfield-insert.html but wanted to see what you supply yours with. Thanks.

#9387 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Just finished my first run at a customized Pinduino program for the Getaway. I have a couple of other things I want to do, but not sure if/how just yet.

Are you running clear bumper caps with blue ring lights?

The supercharger looks amazing!

2 weeks later
#9444 1 year ago

I find the auditory experience important to the game when you're playing at home and it's the only thing you hear. I could understand if you have ambient music playing in the background or at a loud location the music plays second fiddle to the visuals.

In Getaway, when the Run the Red Light music is playing it starts to tense me up especially if I'm on my 3rd ball.

#9450 1 year ago

Most alternate translites are pretty meh... It seems that most of them are just scantily clad photos of women.

I personally love the Getaway translite, so would never think of changing it, but everything else is open to modding.

#9457 1 year ago
Quoted from EStroh:

I'm not a fan of the "cartoon" looking translites (especially my Whirlwind). So just for kicks I made my own for HS2. Not everyone's taste, I know.[quoted image]

That’s actually a really nice alternate, Nice work!

#9476 1 year ago

My game is missing that post too. I wonder if the PO removed it to help with making the loop... I'm going to try sticking a starpost back in and seeing what the effect is.

Also I solved my launcher loop problems. It was only making the loop about 20% of the time. My game was an Italian re-import and had this armature in the launcher:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-6306-2

I replaced it with this one:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-15709

And a new coil sleeve and now my launcher makes the loop 100% of the time.

#9489 1 year ago

On the topic of DMDs every once in awhile mine will get kind of blurry but then go back to being sharp. Any reason for this? Is it starting to fail?

2 weeks later
#9526 1 year ago

Installed my Prof Pinball Pinduino supercharger kit today, using Mr_Tantrum's code. It is amazing! Probably the best lighting mod for the game available right now.

For those going to do this install I'd recommend taking a ball and running it along circuit when installing your LED strip to make sure it doesn't contact the strip at all.

The first time I installed the strip I noticed a significant slowdown in the supercharger. Turns out the ball was contacting the strip in a couple spots causing the ball to slow down. I shifted it up a mm all the way around and presto, back to working at full speed.

1 week later
#9543 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

You're welcome, and thanks.
BTW, you made me think of this:

Bania! This made me lol.

Waiting for my Tilt Audio sound kit to arrive from Germany, can't wait to test out some of these orchestrations with it.

#9567 1 year ago

Nice job on the shifter, really fits into the theme. It would be cool if it lit up when it was time to shift. Should be pretty easy to do by tapping into the shift light and using a comet matrix light.

#9569 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

That's a cool idea. Would have to do some redesign to accommodate a larger socket and bulb vs. the flat circuit board. Can't wait to see pics of yours when your done!

I’ll have to add it to my growing list of projects, lol. Right now I’m swamped designing stuff for JJP POTC.

I like the 3D printed shaft, I’m sure it will hold up fine for home use as long as you don’t have any over aggressive players haha.

3 weeks later
#9597 1 year ago

That's awesome! Reminded me of my engineering thesis project where we made a rail gun to fire aluminum oxide pellets into concrete blocks.

#9601 1 year ago

Not knowing mjenison was making a mountain, I also made a mountain lol. The aesthetic is quite different though. Also put in some tunnel lighting that can either hook into the GI or onto one of the arrows underneath the playfield. I’m just refining it a bit under the supercharger, but this is pretty close to what it’ll look like.

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1 week later
#9637 1 year ago

Pinduino for sure, makes the supercharger look even better. Mr_Tantrum did an excellent job on programming the light show.

I’ve got a 3D printed mountain mod with tunnel light made up if you’re interested in jazzing up the corner. Just got to put it in my store. Here’s a pic:

02329F92-EE62-4D42-8ED8-560E7877CDC0 (resized).jpeg
1 week later
#9683 1 year ago

Just wanted to throw this into the thread since people may not follow my modding thread, but I have the mountain mod and a freeway sign to cover the left switch up in my store.

If you don't want the sign lighted I can create that option too. It'll shave off a few bucks since I don't need to wire it.

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#9684 1 year ago
Quoted from Malenko:

I'm probably just going to cut down an electrical conduit plate and get you to print a sticker. Like I said before its a neat concept but the sign just doesnt look appealing to me.
WOB found a buncha bugs in v.10 so Im busy working on .11 right meow anyway.

I'm always open to constructive criticism, what about it specifically are you not feeling?

#9690 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Would be fairly simple to design one after my SC Interstate sign, but only have a single destination on it and decal only.

Maybe we should do a collaboration on this project? My plastics with your graphic design?

#9698 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Always happy to help.

Great!

What are people's preference for that lane should be called?

I can't recall if there's a call out in the game for any specific highway #, that would make the most sense.

I just used freeway, but I guess it should be something like freeway exit/entrance?

Thoughts?

#9702 1 year ago

I did some modding to my design, namely slimming down the borders and rounding off any corners.

Also realized that it might be better to make the bracket grey to match the existing rubber cover and keep only the sign in white.

IMG_0390 copy (resized).jpg
#9707 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Why not lose the simulated lights at bottom (I assume that's what they are) and just have a nice sign with a white outline? I think that would look cleaner/better (unless you actually put LEDs in them).

Yea I put 3mm LEDs into them that turn on when the freeway arrow is lit.

It’s easy enough to take them out so I can make both versions, one with and one without.

#9715 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

Those that live in Canada, picked this up recently at Mini So. It does have headlights that light up but no idea how to wire it to the game. Think it was $15 Cdn.[quoted image][quoted image]

Nice, I’m still on a search for a reasonably priced Diablo which I believe is the car used in the game.

I also have another mod in that uses the car’s profile but it’s in queue behind some other projects.

#9723 1 year ago

Thanks mr_tantrum!

Yea if you want the lit version you can just order the current one in white. It’ll come with a grey bracket standard now.

The non-lit version I’ll add in as a variation.

My mr_tantrum designed decals are coming in the mail so they should be here later next week.

#9724 1 year ago

I posted the variations in my store. Your choice of warm or cool white LEDs for the lit version.

Non-lit version also added.

Thanks! Looking forward to seeing these in some machines!

#9748 1 year ago
Quoted from FlippinJimmy:

Are the pop bumpers on this game a bit weak? I didn't play the game that much before I replaced the pop bumpers and cleaned it up but it seems like the pop bumpers are a bit sluggish now. What is your experience?

I'm not sure if mine have been rebuilt, but they are super strong.

I have titan rubbers installed and they make that area super frenetic.

#9771 1 year ago

Just wanted to give an update to those who ordered my freeway sign switch cover. I received the decals from Mr_Tantrum this morning so all the orders went out today along with one of my mountains.

Working on the next mod now, just need to get the model sorted for printing.

2 months later
#9925 1 year ago

Having designed my own mountain mod (also for sale in my pinside store) I can attest to the fact that getting it to fit around the supercharger is a pretty grueling undertaking. It took many iterations to get it to fit properly.

I'm sure that everyone's machine is slightly different so having to modify it slightly to fit is understandable.

1 month later
#9988 11 months ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

Has anyone done a spreadsheet for the color bulbs needed for inserts, etc? Looking to update with new Comet bulbs. Any bulbs owners have used that you are happy with? Anything to avoid? Thanks.

I'll throw mine in here as well in case it helps.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1JXrVWkt0pT8KE-Pao9o1GCdVKzX1lbI6SrglDpxkP5s/edit?usp=sharing

I also used Comet for all my lights. I went with non-ghosting 2SMD lights as my ROM was patched for LEDs.

I'm a fan of their Sunlight White option for GI and used their pop bumper discs (red/yellow/green) with clear caps for my bumpers.

Adding the strip lights for the GI as Mr_Tantrum has done is a clever way to light up the voids and super easy with Comet's matrix setup. I use them all the time in my JP mods.

4 months later
#10579 6 months ago

Finally got around to finishing up some mods. Designed my own traffic light and a supercharger ramp sign replacement that uses 1" inserts.

My shifter surround was rather sad looking too so I came up with a shaft/knob/surround replacement. The shift knob has a translucent insert (with a small inset bull logo) that hooks into the shift lamp and gives you a visual indicator on the knob when it's time to shift.

Everything is available in my pinside store now.

Now with those all done I can finally play my game again lol.

P4151536 (resized).pngP4151541 (resized).JPG
#10583 6 months ago
Quoted from TheCapn:

That's nifty, but not necessary for the light on the shifter. I don't know anyone that needs an indicator on the knob to let you know when to shift. Much easier to look down on the playfield.

Yea it’s just a bit of extra flair. As you can see by the hardware and paint on my cabinet, it’s been super routed (it was originally in Italy) so my whole shifter area was a bit sad looking, so I went all out to distract from the paint

Quoted from MJW:

I’d be in for the shift plate if it could be used with the factory handle. Don’t know if handle would fit through your plate to install. I like your concept but wouldn’t want the light.

It will work with the factory shift knob but you’ll have to take the shifter apart to get it on.

Tomorrow I’ll play around with the file to see what it’d look like if it can slip over the factory knob. Maybe if I split it in half...hmm...

#10584 6 months ago
Quoted from Malenko:

I think its aesthetics over function. Its super neat but not a mod I'd do. That stop light looks pro!

Thanks! I had a v1 that was wider, but after installing it looked too big. I was able to narrow it down by like 10mm which made it look a lot better.

BTW your colorization Of Getaway is great, I installed my pin2dmd mod in February and it’s awesome.

#10588 6 months ago
Quoted from Jigs:

Would the 4th bolt fit with this? Doesn't appear that way

It will with the smaller text I ended up using on the final version. I got ahead of myself putting it back together and then realized the text interfered with the 4th bolt. I scaled the text down one font size and fixed the problem.

#10589 6 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I kind of like the SC ramp sign face. I may try one with my custom SC sign, but I think that 3/4” inserts would look better than the 1” ones (may have to grind the depth down on the inserts some).

Hard to see by the photo but my sign replaces the entire assembly. You just reuse the PCBs, so the inserts are flush with the front. 1” inserts are what I have on hand, but 3/4” might be nice too.

#10591 6 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Yes, I did see that, but I like my UV reactive backplate, and a matching face might look good.

Yea I think there's a few options that could look good here. I feel inserts give a more polished look vs exposed bulbs. The UV reactive filament is cool touch too. This is one of the few games where neon kinda fits with the theme. I should try to get some pink EL in here somewhere lol.

#10618 6 months ago

Okay so after a couple days of playing with combinations I think I’ve come up with the final version of my shift plate, the center hole is large enough for it to clear the stock knob and since the stock plate underneath is black it isn’t very noticeable. Also changed the font so it doesn’t interfere with the carriage bolts.

I ended up going with metallic silver paint instead of the grey PLA as the top layer, I think it mimics metal better.

ADABCF59-1DCD-430C-BEA1-D82E1695979C (resized).jpeg
#10624 5 months ago
Quoted from MJW:

Going to have a just the plate option in your store?

Yup, I'll be adding it shortly.

1 month later
#10668 4 months ago
Quoted from MJW:

Thanks G money mods. Tried twice to rotate pic and can’t delete it. Sorry.

Looks great! Love the chrome trim on your machine!

1 month later
#10712 3 months ago

Here’s the way to do it. The alligator clips for the mod should be long enough to fit around the board. (Unless I made a mistake.)

EE36A861-0D64-4263-90D9-1570AE76BB51 (resized).jpeg
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