Unfortunately, the Extra ball in Video mode is controlled by the auto percentaging programmed into the game, so as you begin to collect more and more extra ball awards, the percentaging getting smaller and smaller till it goes away,during VM. If you do a game reset, etc., it will come back, but will eventually go away. I am runnning L-5 and it has the VM extra ball feature and shows up on both sides of the road I am pretty sure.

Very nice. what color you plan to use on your powdercoat for legs, rails,hinges, lockdown bar if I may ask?

I think the red looks good, especially with the cabinet colors on Getaway.

I would like to tear mine down and do a clearcoat on it also. Just not cocky enough to do it yet.

Problem: Ball sometimes gets trapped under the lift ramp during multiball. I read thru most of the threads on the lift ramp issues, but curious if anyone else has experienced this problem. When in multi-ball, sometimes one of the balls will get stuck under the lift ramp and will only get released when the games goes into ball search and lifts the ramp. This, of course, ruins multi-ball. Sometimes if more than one ball is still in play, I can knock it loose, but most of the time, the balls stays there until you drain and then goes into ball search looking for the one missing ball. My lift ramp works fine, raising and lowering completely and works fine otherwise during gameplay. The mechanism travels smoothly, up and down, so mechanically there is no binding.

Comments, thoughts, suggestions on what to look for?
Thanks..

Thanks,
I will definitely check that right loop switch out, although I know the switch is working for the freeway shots and will cause the ramp to open when it should be, at least most of the time. Sometimes I think this occurs because of a very slow moving ball that is hardly moving in that area of the loop and just gets caught. As much as I like this game, sometimes I wish they would have come up with a better way to lock balls. The ramp constantly raising and lowering during loop shots and and lock shots seems a clumsy way to handle the situation, but it is satisfying to shoot the shot up the ramp to lock balls in the hideout for sure.

That is a thought. I just need to start multiball and see if i can repeat the problem and watch to see what is happening, it happens quite a bit in multiball.

When you say driver board, are you referring to the supercharger accelerator board mounted on underside of the playfield? when you run solenoid diagnostics test, the diverter coil clicks, but the plunger is not energized (not being pulled to the coil stop)enough to cause the diverter to open? Trying to make sure the diverter paddle is tight to the shaft and that the diverter is not binding by moving it open closed by hand.

It's the auto-percentaging so once you start collecting extra balls you won't get the video mode EB unless you do a factory reset. At least with game ROM L-5.

i typically avoid getting secret mania, it's kind of neat with the lightshow, but I almost always drain really fast for some reason.

I always thought it would be cool if the instruments on the speaker panel could be lighted with LEDs. Has that ever been done?

I believe the prototype game rom P-7 has very high max video mode scores as well.

My first thought is you maybe overloading your GI circuits with all the added LED strips?

When did the GI fuse start blowing every time you power on the game? After you added/made all the light mods, not before? I would check The Gi connectors in the backbox for any signs of burned connectors, then check for possibility of shorts under the PF in the GI strings.

I like the colored 555's alot on the PF feature signs on Bally/Williams/DE games instead of LEDs or clear 555's with the colored condom covers. I like the way the colored incandescent bulbs look flashing or pulsing, not nearly as bright as LEDs, but I just like the way they look on most of my games like TAF, WWF, CFTBL, Getaway, BSD coffin. The frosted Dome LED's are not bad, but the are always white until they light.

Yes, this was caught by several of us who purchased the repro set right after they came out. Stu came on line and admitted he missed that one. Good thing it is way in back under supercharger assembly so you really don't see it.

Very creative. Nice Idea.. Looks good.

I will take a set INDY. Just let me know when you have them ready. Thanks.
Chet

Those look sweet together. High Speed is a really fun game.

MustangPaul, Is the purple LED strip mounted to under side of the supercharger itself and where do you tap into power? Thanks..

Now i get. thanks! I have a purple comet strip looking for a home. This looks like a good fit for it. that back left corner is dark on Getaway for sure

I just installed the nex gen v.20 cab decals on my Whirlwind. I am not any kind of expert, but I feel like they are excellent. To, me they look and and even feel like real paint and they went on very nice using the dry method. Colors are deep and vibrant. I have not installed the HS2's decals, but I would not hesitate to get them.

I purchased direct from PPS.

I posted this in the tech section but thought I would copy the same issue here in case any of my fellow owners may have experienced this issue with their Getaway. Any thoughts, comments, ideas would be much appreciated..
Thanks..
The low-powered solenoids on my Getaway (coils 9-16) stopping working. The low powered coils are: the ball eject hole, Diverter low, Ball Release (trough), Shooter plunger kicker, top, left and bottom jet bumpers and the outhole. Also, the Mars revolving lamp stopped working. The game boots up and plays except the above solenoids are not working. I entered solenoid diagnostic test and none of the above coils fired when i tested each individually. The Mars rotating lamp did not work in Solenoid test either. The first thing I checked was Fuse 104 (3A-SB). that protects the Low powered solenoid circuit. The fuse tested Ok, but I put a new one in anyway. So fuse is not issue. I then checked to see that I had DC voltage at the solenoids with the game in attract mode. I checked both lugs on each of the solenoids 9-16 and get solid 73.4 volts on each lug of every coil, so all the coils are getting power. All of the power driver board diagnostic LEDs are lit for power including the 20v. I then tested to make sure the coil and power were working together by using a jumper to ground the coil to the side rail and each coil fired when temporarily grounded per Clay's guides for testing coils. I then checked the tip 102 transistors for each of the coils using Clay's procedure of grounding the transistor tab to the BB ground braid using a jumper wire. Each coil fired as it should when jumpering the tab to ground. The switch matrix is working and registering for each of the switches associated with the coils as well.
Any thoughts, suggestions, or ideas of what I should consider or check next?

Thanks. I will check U4 on the pdb. Can you explain the ground test for the Mars lamp?

Thanks Grumpy! I have an Elenco LP as recommended by Terryb but really have not used it since I got it. Would the best way to test U-4 in the game, by first testing a U-4 in a known working game to see what kind of readings/pulses I get and then compare to the suspect one in Getaway? Not sure otherwise what I would be looking for. Should I use 12v or 5 volt to power the probe when testing U-4? thanks..

Thanks Grumpy, I will give this a try when I get back home.

I can not use my TAF. It is totally on the fritz. I have a separate long thread on trying to resolve problem. I am getting 4.99v on r 254 in hs2. I checked the output on pin 12 of u4 With game on solenoid test running for the out hole coil 16(q44). I got steady red ( high) but no pulsing to low. I did a check on my creature using the out hole solenoid test running, u4 pin 16 coil 12 in that case. I have schematic for my creature but not hs2. I got the high to low pulse with out hole firing. So verified that my LP is working correctly. Since no pulse to low on hs2, is u4 suspect?

resistor 254 has 4.99 v on one side only. No pulse, just steady red high/ continuous tone on the other side of the resistor. I don't have schematic for my HS2. The inputs to U4 come from the cpu via ribbon cable at J113 correct? Any suggestions on how to test inputs with the LP. Again, my first time at using this tool. If the CPU is not toggling U4, then it could be a CPU board issue possibly?

Thanks, Grumpy, it worked. I reversed the ribbon cable and played a couple of games, everything worked fine. I just ordered new CPU - PDB ribbon cables from Marco, Ed was out of stock on them. I am hoping this is the problem I will continue to play more games and install my new ribbon cables in all my WPC games when they get here. what causes a cable to go bad, just oxidation, game is in very dry heated and cooled basement. Had it for over 6 years, no problems. Now if I can get my TAF fixed I will be in good shape. thanks for your help.

Nice target decals. Do you know where to obtain them? Thx!

Anyone know of a possible source for an original translite? Preferably new.

Thanks!

Those are Sick! I did not even think to check with them. Thanks!

That single coin slot door is called an English 1 door, used on export games pretty sure. I had one on a Jackbot that was re-imported that I swapped in a standard two slot door to match others games i owned.

That game looks very nice. That's not much wear at all on the saucer. It typically gets really worn down at the back.